Bonvivant365

December 11, 2025January 12, 2026

Caves de Rauzan Visit

My wife and I visited Caves de Rauzan today, a wine cooperative (Co-op) in Entre-deux-Mers, the largest wine-producing sub-region of Bordeaux. It was a cold, cloudy day, but it gave us a “backstage pass” to the inner workings of a Bordeaux wine cooperative. It was a lot of fun and very informative.

Entre-Deux-Mers Overview

Entre-Deux-Mers is a large, triangular area of land southeast of Bordeaux. It sits between the Garonne and Dordogne tidal rivers, which led people in the Middle Ages to call it “Entre-Deux-Mers,” or “between two seas.” This area is the largest wine-making sub-region in Bordeaux. It is a hilly area with about 7,000 hectares of vineyards.

There are nine Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOCs) across the Entre-Deux-Mers: Entre-Deux-Mers AOC; Premières Côtes de Bordeaux AOC; Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC; Cadillac AOC; Loupiac AOC; St-Macaire AOC; Graves de Vayres AOC; and Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux AOC for sweet wines. The soils vary across the AOCs and include sand, clay, clay-limestone, and gravel. The area has a mild, oceanic climate.

Entre-Deux-Mers AOC

It is a bit confusing because the Entre-Deux-Mers is both the name of the general area and an AOC within it. The Entre-Deux-Mers AOC wine appellation was established in 1937 and initially allowed both dry and sweet white wines. In 1957, the rules changed so that only dry white wine could be made, labeled, and sold as Entre-Deux-Mers. The main white grapes grown here are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle, and a few others.

Red wines have always been produced in Entre-Deux-Mers, but until recently, they could be labeled only as Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur. On August 25, 2023, the Entre-Deux-Mers Rouge AOC was introduced, allowing red wines to be sold under the Entre-Deux-Mers name. Starting with the 2023 vintage, Entre-Deux-Mers winemakers chose to label their red wines Bordeaux AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur, or Entre-Deux-Mers.

The approved red grape varieties for Entre-Deux-Mers AOC wines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec (Cot), Cabernet Franc, and Petite Verdot. Carmenère is an “accessory variety” and can make up no more than 30% of the final blend. Each wine must include at least two grape varieties.

What is a Wine Cooperative

A cooperative is an organization of individuals that come together to share costs. At the heart of all cooperatives is the “mutualization of financial means.” Uh?

Picture yourself as a winemaker. On your own, you don’t want to, or you don’t have the resources, to manage the vineyard and make and sell your own wine. So, what can you do? You team up with other local winemakers in your area, and combine your resources to share the costs of managing all the vineyards and create and staff a central location for making and selling wine. “Mutualization of financial means” is at the center of any cooperative. Almost half the wine produced in Europe is co-op wine.

Caves de Rauzan Wine Cooperative

Caves de Rauzan is a cooperative of 230 Entre-deux-Mers winemakers that have come together to share the cost of making and selling their wine. Members jointly own and manage the cooperative, ensuring every winemaker has a voice in decision-making and a share of the profits based on the quality and quantity of their contributions.

It basically works like this (the exact details may not be 100% correct): When a winemaker joins the cooperative, they pay a fee based on their size and get shares in the cooperative, which are returned to them if and when they leave. Every year at harvest time, the winemakers deliver their grapes to the cooperative’s central winemaking facility, where the GM and his team make and sell the wine.

When the wine is made and sold, each winemaker is compensated based on the quantity, the quality, and, for red wines, the “peripheral” of the grapes they delivered. 70% of the wine is sold by the cooperative as bulk wine and shipped off, for instance, to Canada, where it is bottled and sold by others. The rest is bottled on demand for supermarkets or others, or as the cooperative sees fit for B-to-C sales.

Château Canet was up for sale, so the Co-op bought it and considers it’s mascot.

Caves de Rauzan
Address: 701 Rue Vineuse, 33420 Rauzan
Phone: 05 57 84 13 22
https://www.cavederauzan.com/

To learn about our visit to a top Château in the Entre-deux-Mers region, see my post “Château de Reignac Visit.”

December 11, 2025January 12, 2026

Château de Reignac Visit, Saint-Loubès

My wife and I visited the Château de Reignac in Bordeaux’s Entre-deux-Mers region. We learned much about its unique history and wines, including the patented Vatelot method used to make the Château’s flagship wine, BALTHVS.

Château de Reignac, Saint-Loubès, France

The Château was built in the 16th century. In 1990, Yves Vatelot, a French inventor and entrepreneur, bought the estate, restored the buildings, updated the wine-making facilities, and collaborated with oenologist consultant Michel Rollan to focus on the vineyards and winemaking.

Today, Château de Reignac is seen as one of the top estates in Entre-deux-Mers and the larger Bordeaux wine region. It is recognized for its excellent terroir, consistent quality driven by its focus on excellence, and its value for money.

The “inner workings” of the patented Vatelot method

This is my understanding of how the Vatelot method works and why it is effective: The process begins with cold maceration and fermentation of grapes in aluminum vats. Subsequently, oak barrels are filled with the fermented wine and the grape must, which consists of crushed grapes containing juice, skins, and seeds. The barrels are sealed with a head (pictured below) and rotated several times daily. Metal bars within the barrels enhance post-fermentation maceration. Because the barrels remain sealed, the wine experiences significantly less air contact and, consequently, less oxidation than with the pump-over or punch-down methods. After this stage, the wine is racked, meaning it is transferred to barrels for malolactic fermentation.

In the 19th century, a greenhouse attributed to the engineer Gustave Eiffel was added to the estate; see the picture below.

Tasting Notes: BALTHVS, 2016

Tasted in non-blind conditions in my Airbnb in Bordeaux, France.

Bordeaux 2016: According to The Wine Cellar Insider, the 2016 Bordeaux season began with unusually cool and record-setting wet weather. Despite this, early June flowering, particularly for Merlot, was highly successful, resulting in the most significant crop per hectare since 2004. But the summer drought left many vineyards short of moisture by September, causing some vines to nearly halt their growth to conserve energy.

Although Merlot remained abundant and healthy, it required water. Rainfall on September 13 and 14 benefited the Merlot, while additional rain on September 30 and October 1 arrived when Cabernet Sauvignon needed it most. These conditions required winemakers to pick carefully and sort grapes, separating overripe and drought-affected fruit from ripe, fresh ones. Notably, there was virtually no rot on the red grapes for the third consecutive year (See 2016 Bordeaux Harvest and Vintage Report).

Grape varieties: 100% Merlot (old vine 30 years)

About the wine: According to the Château de Reignac 2016 fact sheet, in terms of viticulture, spring de-budding was performed to remove buds on the vine’s spurs or branches that were considered to be of little or no use to the vine. Leaves were manually thinned, and removal was performed on the east-facing side to allow for morning sun. Green harvesting was conducted twice to remove excess green bunches from the vines before the grapes changed color and the sugar content rose, reducing yield, concentrating nutrients, and releasing them to the remaining bunches to build healthier grapes. The grapes were then hand-picked into small baskets and double-sorted both before and after destemming.

In terms of vinification, the grapes were cold macerated at 6°C for 7 days before fermentation. They then fermented for 35 days in two new oak barrels using the patented Vatelot method, which also included post-fermentation maceration. After this, the wine was racked to barrels and underwent malolactic fermentation.

Finally, the wine was aged in 100% new oak barrels, stirring the lees in the barrels
stacked using the Oxoline system. Coopers: Garonnaise.

Appearance (Visual examination): A bright, red wine free of sediment and gas with a dark, inky purple color, a cherry-copper rim, and a deep inky purple hue; moderately concentrated with medium-low viscosity.

Nose (Olfactory examination): Medium intensity with notes of black fruit, such as plum, sour cherry, flower aromas of lavender, and nuances of chocolate, tobacco, and black pepper.

Palate (Gustative examination): Elegant, yet fresh. Structured with richness and silky tannins, the finish is well-balanced, with a persistence that leaves a lingering hint of spicy dark chocolate on the palate.

Service: Decant for 1 hour. Serve at 16-18°C (61-64°F) in a Bordeaux wine glass.

Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise, rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce, served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries), is a classic pairing.

I made and paired the BALTHVS, 2016, with an “Aberdeen Angus Steak” from “Gastronomie Des Pyrénées,” a port wine foie gras sauce, and freshly harvested young, small sauteed potatoes.

Bonvivant365's "Aberdeen Angus Steak" from "Gastronomie Des Pyrénées," port wine foie gras sauce, young sauteed potatoes — Bonvivant365’s “Aberdeen Angus Steak” from “Gastronomie Des Pyrénées,” port wine foie gras sauce, and young sauteed potatoes

Summary: Château de Reignac’s “BALTHVS,” 2016, is an easy-drinking red wine that, once awake, is a joy to spend time with, never tiring.

Source and price: Château de Reignac, 60 euros.

Reviews: 92-93/100 J. Suckling

Château de Reignac
Address: 38 Chem. de Reignac, 33450 Saint-Loubès
Phone: 05 56 20 41 05
https://reignac.com/en/

To learn about our visit to the largest wine cooperative in the Entre-deux-Mers region, see my post Caves de Rauzan Visit.

November 28, 2025January 12, 2026

Maison Nouvelle Review, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle is a 2-star MICHELIN restaurant in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. It is led by Chef Philippe Etchebest and his wife, Dominique. Philippe Etchebest is a renowned chef and celebrity television personality, known for shows such as “Top Chef” and “Kitchen Nightmares.” He holds the prestigious title of “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” (MOF), which signifies that he is among the top chefs in the country and is recognized for his exceptional craftsmanship.

Maison Nouvelle, Chartrons, Bordeaux, France

Upon arriving at Maison Nouvelle, you ring the front doorbell as if you were visiting a friend’s house for lunch. The greeting is warm and friendly. The atmosphere is warm and inviting. Maison Nouvelle exudes a quiet luxury that emphasizes quality and simplicity. We felt right at home.

Maison Nouvelle's staircase gallery wall, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle's bar, Chartrons, Bordeaux — Maison Nouvelle’s bar, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle, "CAN 944," Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle bar seating area, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle's bar snow scene, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

Maison Nouvelle's staircase, Bordeaux, France.

Maison Nouvelle's staircase looking down

Maison Nouvelle, dining area, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle's wine bucket, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

Maison Nouvelle's dining room fireplace, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle, fireplace, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle, fireplace (close-up), Chartrons, Bordeaux

The communication before lunch was impressive. I was able to convey my wife’s preferences to the chef, who adapted the menu accordingly. Specifically, she prefers beef cooked medium well.

My wife began with a glass of “Tradition Rosé Brute, Fernand Lemaire, Champagne. I began with a glass of Valérie & Gaël Dupont’s “Heureuse Rencontre” Extra Brut Champagne. All of which paired excellently with the small snacks we were served.

Maison Nouvelle's "Amuse bouche," Chartrons, Bordeaux — Maison Nouvelle’s “Amuse-bouche,” Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle's fruit gel, Chartrons, Bordeaux. — Maison Nouvelle’s fruit gel, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

We were then served “Freshwater Squash.” Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, and Saint-Émilion soy sauce.

Maison Nouvelle's "Freshwater Squash," featuring Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, and Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux. — Maison Nouvelle’s “Freshwater Squash,” featuring Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, and Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

Maison Nouvelle's "Freshwater Squash," Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux — Maison Nouvelle’s “Freshwater Squash,” Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Next “Shell and Root,” Seared scallops, tuberous chervil, hazelnut milk yogurt.

Maison Nouvelle's "Shell and Root," Chartrons, Bordeaux — Maison Nouvelle’s “Shell and Root,” Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle's knives, Chartrons, Bordeaux — Maison Nouvelle’s knives, Chartrons, Bordeaux

I was served the “Grape Harvester Pigeon,” Roast pigeon on the breast, porcini mushrooms, mustard grapes, Merlot reduction jus.

Maison Nouvelle's "Grape Harvester Pigeon": roasted pigeon breast with porcini mushrooms, mustard grapes, and Merlot reduction jus. — Maison Nouvelle’s “Grape Harvester Pigeon”: roasted pigeon breast with porcini mushrooms, mustard grapes, and Merlot reduction jus.

My wife was served beef.

Maison Nouvelle's beef, Chartrons, Bordeaux. — Maison Nouvelle’s beef, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

Then Maison Nouvelle’s ceviche.

Maison Nouvelle's ceviche, Chartrons, Bordeaux. — Maison Nouvelle’s ceviche, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

“Herbal Freshness Kiwi,” marigolds, lemon, olive oil.

We ordered a cheese plate.

Maison Nouvelle cheese plate, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

Maison Nouvelle's dessert wine, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

Sweet treats ended the meal.

Maison Nouvelle's dessert, Chartrons, Bordeaux. — Maison Nouvelle’s dessert, Chartrons, Bordeaux.

Maison Nouvelle, kiwi-juice, Chartrons, Bordeaux

Maison Nouvelle's "Petit-fours," Chartrons, Bordeaux — Maison Nouvelle’s “Petit-fours,” Chartrons, Bordeaux

Since the 1990s, I have dined at numerous MICHELIN-starred restaurants around the world. However, my lunch at Maison Nouvelle was one of the most impressive experiences I have ever had, earning a perfect Bonvivat365 rating of 25.

Ambiance, vibe, service: 5
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5
Presentation and plating: 5
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 5

Bonvivant365 score: 25

Maison Nouvelle
Address: 11 Rue Rode, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 33 09 46 90
https://maison-nouvelle.fr/

After lunch, if you are looking for more to do in the Chartrons’ neighborhood, see my post “Best Places to Eat Chartrons, Bordeaux“

November 11, 2025January 12, 2026

Soléna Restaurant Review, Bordeaux

My wife and I live in Bordeaux, where we are attending wine school. We decided to visit Soléna Restaurant for lunch, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Bordeaux run by chef Victor Ostronzec.

We received a warm and friendly welcome. The space is small, featuring a window (limited) into the kitchen, and is well-organized, filled with natural colors that evoke a sense of relaxation and serenity, which creates a sense of isolation from the distractions of the outside world. When all guests arrive, the atmosphere becomes lively and energetic, creating a vibrant ambiance.

The MICHELIN-starred restaurant offers multiple menus, with options varying by day and time. We chose the five-course “Balande Par Chez Nous” (English: “Walk Around Our Place”) with wine pairing. It’s important to note that all menus are labeled as “Chef’s Surprise,” so you won’t know what you will be served. However, the staff collects all necessary information to be aware of any allergies or dietary preferences so that the chef can adapt your experience accordingly.

While some people may not enjoy the “Chef’s Surprise” concept, we appreciate it because it encourages us to “taste outside the box.” As someone famously once said, “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.”

As an apéritif, I ordered the “Cocktail Maison,” which was a Moscow Mule made with ginger beer and vodka, as pictured below. My wife passed on the apéritif.

Soléna Restaurant's Cocktail Maison," a Moscow Mule made with ginger beer and vodka, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s Cocktail Maison,” a Moscow Mule made with ginger beer and vodka, Bordeaux, France

We were served an amuse-bouche featuring a variety of delightful bites: a blackcurrant macaron filled with a hint of foie gras, a strudel filled with Mimolette cheese, steamed bread stuffed with smoked anchovies, crispy pistachio paired with sorrel, cereal, and whelks garnished with shiso and mayonnaise, as shown below. Each was YUMMY.

Soléna Restaurant's blackcurrant macaron bites filled with a hint of foie gras and strudel bites filled with Mimolette cheese — Soléna Restaurant’s blackcurrant macaron bites filled with a hint of foie gras and strudel bites filled with Mimolette cheese

Soléna Restaurant's strudel filled with Mimolette cheese and steamed bread stuffed with smoked anchovies, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s strudel filled with Mimolette cheese and steamed bread stuffed with smoked anchovies, Bordeaux, France

Soléna Restaurant's whelks garnished with shiso and mayonnaise, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s whelks garnished with shiso and mayonnaise, Bordeaux, France

Following the amuse-bouche, we were served two slices of homemade brioche and an olive tasting of Le Carre Des Huiles’ PDO olive oil from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence, as pictured below.

Soléna Restaurant's olive tasting of Le Carre Des Huiles' PDO olive oil from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s olive tasting of Le Carre Des Huiles’ PDO olive oil from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence, Bordeaux, France

The starter consisted of scallops accompanied by a watercress coulis and smoked cauliflower, as shown in the picture below. Soléna paired the palate with Domaine Charles Joguet, Les Petites Roches Blanc, 2024.

Soléna Restaurant's scallops, accompanied by a watercress coulis and smoked cauliflower, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s scallops, accompanied by a watercress coulis and smoked cauliflower, Bordeaux, France

The main course began with a fish dish: red mullet, perfectly cooked and served with carrots and a clear shiso bone broth, as shown in the picture below. Soléna paired the plate with Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rosé 2023, a classic Bandol rosé.

Soléna Restaurant's red mullet, perfectly cooked and served with carrots and a clear shiso bone broth, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s red mullet, perfectly cooked and served with carrots and a clear shiso bone broth, Bordeaux, France

The next dish was venison ravioli, accompanied by black trumpet mushroom tapenade in a black pepper emulsion, as pictured below. Soléna paired the plate with a Château La Brande, Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux 2019, featuring dark fruits that lingered on the palate, complementing the earthy dish well.

Soléna Restaurant's ravioli accompanied by black trumpet mushroom tapenade in a black pepper emulsion, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s ravioli accompanied by black trumpet mushroom tapenade in a black pepper emulsion, Bordeaux, France

We were served two desserts. The first was Lovita plum served with ginger and Koji ice cream, as shown in the picture below.

Soléna Restaurant's Lovita plum served with ginger and Koji ice cream, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s Lovita plum served with ginger and Koji ice cream, Bordeaux, France

The second dessert was dark chocolate with pecans, accompanied by yogurt sorbet, as depicted in the image below. Soléna paired the plate with a Maury Grenat, a benchmark in Roussillon, made from 100% Grenache Noir, which was a perfect complement to the chef’s chocolate dessert.

Soléna Restaurant's dark chocolate filled with pecans and yogurt sorbet, Bordeaux, France — Soléna Restaurant’s dark chocolate filled with pecans and yogurt sorbet, Bordeaux, France

In summary, we found Soléna’s ambiance, vibe, and service to be above average. Overall, the wine pairing was well-executed, but we felt the first wine was too acidic to complement the scallop dish. The last three wines were enjoyable but not particularly surprising so that we would categorize them as average. If given the chance to do it again, we would choose our own glasses of wine or opt to buy a bottle. The presentation and plating were mixed, with some aspects being average and others exceeding expectations. The yummy quotient was high, while the desserts, although simple, were above average.

Soléna Restaurant is a fine MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in Bordeaux that is worth trying. We are glad that we did.

Ambiance, vibe, and service: 4
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 4

Bonvivant365 score: 20

Address: 5 Rue Chauffour, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 53 28 06
https://solena-restaurant.com/

If you plan to visit and eat in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, see my post “Best Restaurants in Chartrons“

November 9, 2025January 12, 2026

Petit-Figeac, 2019: Tasting Notes

Château Figeac Overview

Petit-Figeac is from the Saint-Emilion appellation of the Bordeaux wine region. It is the second wine of Château Figeac.

Château Figeac is situated to the west of Saint-Émilion, bordering Pomerol, and encompasses 41 hectares of vineyards, all classified as Premier Grand Cru Classé “A.” The vineyards rest upon three gravelly hillocks composed of quartz and blue clay in the subsoil. The climate is wet and maritime. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

It is a historic Bordeaux vineyard with roots tracing back to the second century during the Gallo-Roman period. The property’s owner at that time, Figeacus, named the villa he built in that location after himself. Figeac is one of the few vineyards in Saint-Émilion that has been continuously inhabited for the past 2,000 years.

Tasting Notes: Petit-Figeac, 2019

Tasted in non-blind conditions in our Airbnb in Bordeaux, France.

Appearance: Red wine with a medium ruby appearance, a light garnet rim, and a deep purple hue, with medium viscosity.

Nose: The nose is of medium intensity with primary aromas of dark fruit, such as plum and peonies, and secondary and tertiary aromas of baking spice.

Palate: The wine is dry, with low acidity, smooth tannins, and a medium alcohol content. It is medium-bodied with a moderate flavor intensity, featuring ripe fruit notes such as plum. Its finish is medium in length. The wine is well-balanced.

Conclusion: The wine is of good quality, suitable for bottle ageing for up to 10 years.

Food pairing: Boeuf de Bresse grilled or roasted with French fries or in a stew or casserole.

Grape variety: 58% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc

Temperature: Serve between 16 and 18°C

Rewards: The estate received four stars in the 2023 Guide to the Best Wines of France (RVF) and five stars in the 2023 Bettane & Desseauve Guide.

October 27, 2025January 12, 2026

Château Batailley Visit, Pauillac

Today, my wife and I had the fortunate opportunity to join a wine excursion organized by the wine school we are attending (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). We visited Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé of 1855, located within the Pauillac AOC.

Château Batailley, Grand-Cru-Classé-en-1855, Pauillac AOC

The name “Batailley” comes from the word “Bataille,” which means “battle.” This refers to the conflict that occurred between the French and the English on the same estate in 1453. Château Batailley is one of the oldest estates in Pauillac.

The Classified Growths of 1885

What is “The Classified Growths of 1885,” you ask? In a nutshell, a world’s fair was going to be held in Paris in 1855, known as the 1855 Paris Exposition (French: Exposition Universelle de 1855).

Emperor Napoleon III sought to showcase Bordeaux wines, which had already gained fame in the Middle Ages due to the marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine, whose union had opened the Bordeaux region to the English market and eventually the world.

So, the Emperor requested that the French wine merchants (known as négociants) create a list of the best Bordeaux wines. The wine négociants ranked Bordeaux wines based on each château’s reputation and trading prices, which were directly tied to the quality of the wines produced by each château at that time.

Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar

The wine merchants compiled a list ranking the châteaux as first, second, third, fourth, and fifth most important “growths.” Thus, the “Les Grands Crus classés en 1855” (English: The Classified Growths of 1885) was born, and it stuck.

The Classified Growths of 1885 included 58 châteaux: four were ranked as first growths, 12 as second growths, 14 as third growths, 11 as fourth growths, and 17 as fifth growths. Château Batailley was ranked as a first growth.

Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar bottles

Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé en 1855

My wife and I have visited many wineries over the years, but this one stands out as the best. We started our day with a tour of the winemaking operations, led by the winemaker. We were fortunate to witness the process of recovering and pressing the “cap of marc” to obtain press wine that is rich in aromatics and tannins. It was the first time we had seen this done.

After the tour, we enjoyed a tasting of Château Batailley’s wines. This was followed by a lovely lunch hosted by the winery’s president. I cannot express enough how kind and generous our hosts were. The entire day was magical, and I extend my heartfelt thanks to everyone involved.

Recovering and pressing the “cap of marc.”

During alcoholic fermentation of red wine in a tank, yeast converts sugar into alcohol, producing significant amounts of carbon dioxide (CO2). This gas pushes solid components, such as grape skins, pulp, and seeds, upward to the top of the tank, forming a layer known as the “cap of marc.”

Throughout alcoholic fermentation, the cap is pushed down into the fermenting grape juice at the winemaker’s discretion. The technique used to break up the floating fruit skins and solids and push them back into the wine is called “punching the cap.” This practice enhances the wine’s flavor and varies in intensity depending on the winemaker’s goals. Instead of punching down, a winemaker may choose to use the “pouring over method.”

After alcoholic fermentation and any additional maceration are complete, the wine is “racked,” meaning it is transferred from the tank to another tank or barrel. At this stage, the wine is known as free-run wine, which is the liquid that flows out of the tank by gravity when the bottom valve is opened after fermentation.

The "cap of marc" is being removed from the tank for pressing — The “cap of marc” is being removed from the tank for pressing

When the free-run wine is removed, the marc cap, which consists of all the solid parts, such as grape skins and seeds, settles to the bottom of the tank. A person then climbs into the tank to shovel out this material, which is fed into a press to extract the juice known as “must” (using manual, hydraulic, or pneumatic methods). This is called “press wine.”

Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine" — Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine.”

The “press wine” is collected, tasted, and typically stored in vats or barrels based on its quality. Normally, the winemaker combines the press wine with the free-run wine, depending on their objectives.

The remaining solids, known as pomace, are discarded or repurposed for other uses, such as producing spirits or fertilizers.

Tasting Note: Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

We sampled a variety of wines, all excellent. However, I want to highlight the Château Batailley “first wine,” which is the winery’s flagship bottling. This wine is a Pauillac AOC wine and has been classified as a 5th Growth since 1855, as discussed above.

Bordeaux 2017: According to the Wine Cellar Insider, “The 2017 Bordeaux vintage is notable for the significant frost that affected the region in April. The best wines from this vintage come from the northern Médoc, with quality diminishing further south. On the Right Bank, Pomerol outperforms Saint-Émilion. However, the 2017 Bordeaux vintage is characterized more by localized terroirs than by specific appellations. The gravel slopes in the northern Médoc, particularly in Pauillac, produced powerful wines.”

Visual examination: A dark purple color with a cherry-copper rim and a deep ruby hue.

Olfactory examination: Medium plus intensity with notes of ripe fruit, such as blackcurrants, followed by spicy, dark chocolate notes, and a whiff of tobacco.

Gustative examination: Elegant, yet fresh. Structured with richness and tannins, revealing its good bottle-ageing potential. The finish is well-balanced with silky tannins and a persistence that leaves a lingering hint of dark chocolate on the palate.

Grape varieties: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot

Serving Temperature: 16-18°C or 61 to 64°F

Aging potential: Drink now or in the next 10-20 years.

Reviews: 92/100 Wine Enthusiast

Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise (Rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce) served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries).

Summary: Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé since 1855, beautifully represents Pauillac, offering tremendous value for money with an average price of €33 or $38 on Wine-Searcher.

Note: The five châteaux from 1885 ranked as First Growths, or Premiers Crus Classés, are Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, and Haut-Brion.

Paid tasting of Chateau Margaux 2011 at Max Bordeaux, Wine Gallery & Cellar in Bordeaux, France

October 12, 2025October 12, 2025

Best Restaurants in Tours, France

My wife and I visited Tours, France, for the weekend to visit the Loire Valley wine region, specifically AOC Vouvray and AOC Chinon. We arrived on Thursday night and left Sunday morning. We stayed in the center of the old town. Below are the best restaurants in Tours that we had time to discover.

Le Petit Patrimoine

I picked restaurant Le Petit Patrimoine for our first night because I was searching for “local” Lorie Valley cuisine. They market themselves as “Country Food Restaurant,” so I expected and experienced akin to an Italian trattoria. Imagine my surprise when we walked in and discovered a chic, trendy Lorie Valley restaurant.

Le Petit Patrimoine is small but mighty. They make trendy cocktails that everyone seems to order. My wife and I were not interested in cocktails but in the wine. So after selecting our meal, we selected a Lorie Valley light red wine from Chinon. AOC Chinon reds are made with Cabernet Franc and come in various styles, ranging from light to medium to full-bodied. We also ordered a medium Chinon. AOC Chinon red, drank a glass, and took the rest back to our Airbnb.

To begin with, we shared the “Tourangelle,” a pie filled with confit pork belly and local goat cheese. For the main course, my wife chose the butternut risotto with chestnuts and tarragon oil, while I ordered the steak with local goat cheese sauce. Both dishes were excellent.

For dessert, we shared the local cheese plate, which included four goat cheeses from the Lorie Valley, see the picture below.

Le Petit Patrimoine's "Goat cheese plate," Tours-France — Le Petit Patrimoine’s “Goat cheese plate,” Tours-France

After the cheese plate, we ordered and shared the brioche perdue topped with cacahuète praline, vanilla, and macadamia nut ice cream, because it looked so delicious as it passed by our table.

Ambiance and vibe: 4
Wine by the glass options: 4
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 4
Dessert quality: 5

Bonvivant365 score: 21

Address: 58 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours
Phone: 02 47 66 05 81

Restaurant Les Arpents

Restaurant Les Arpents is not in Tours; it is in Amboise, but in my opinion, a must-try if you are in the area. They have a variety of menus from which to choose. My wife had the “Menu dijur” and I had the “Chef Surprise Menu.”

We each started with a glass of sparkling wine from the Lorie Valley and were served an aperitif: shortbread flavored with Breton curry and a red beetroot puree.

As an “amuse-bouche,” we were both served a tuna tartare with celery textures.

As a starter, I had squash in different textures (royal squash, spaghetti squash, squash pickles, and squash waffles).

Restaurant Les Arpents' "Roast hanger steak" served carrots, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, Amboise, France — Restaurant Les Arpents’ “Roast hanger steak” served carrots, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, Amboise, France

As a main course, I was served beef and carrots, including roast hanger steak, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, see the picture below.

And for dessert, our signature treat is our own lemon tart. See the picture below.

Ambiance and vibe: 4
Wine by the glass options: 4
Presentation and plating: 5
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 5

Bonvivant365 score: 23

Address: 5 Rue d’Orange, 37400 Amboise
Phone: 02 36 20 92 44
https://restaurant-lesarpents.fr/

Les Halles de Tours

After lunch, my wife went home to take a nap, while I continued my culinary adventure at Les Halles de Tours. Les Halles de Tours is similar to the other market halls we have visited in France, except for Rouen, which is essentially just a fish store, a cheese shop, a small butchery, and a vegetable shop all under one roof.

I “bellied up” to the “Le Comptoir Saint Kerber,” oyster bar, and ordered six number 3 oysters, as they have sizes 2 and 3 available, see the picture below. In France, oysters are ranked from 000 to 6— the smaller the number, the larger the oyster. Oysters labeled as threes are considered medium-sized.

The oysters are sourced from an oyster farm in Cancale, located in the Brittany region of France, near the stunning Mont-Saint-Michel. Cancale oysters are renowned for their distinct salty hazelnut flavor, see the picture below.

Le Comptoir Saint Kerber Cancale Oysters, Tours, France

In France, oysters are typically served with fresh bread and butter to complement the dish. When I tasted the butter, I instantly recognized it as Bordier Butter, a culinary icon from Brittany.

The unique terroir of the region greatly influences the flavor profile of the cream used to produce this butter. I asked the shop owner where I could find this butter in Tours, and he directed me to a nearby cheese shop just a few meters away.

I decided to buy all they had—seven blocks of Bordier Butter. As I write this post, I’m currently carrying them back with me on the train to Bordeaux.

Bollywood Masala

My wife didn’t want to go out for dinner since we had a big lunch at “Restaurant Les Arpents,” so I wandered our street in search of something to take away.

Rue Colbert, originally built to connect the old and new parts of Tours, is lined with a variety of cuisines, including French, Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Syrian, and even Napoleonic pizza, among others.

While exploring, I discovered Bollywood Masala, a small Indian restaurant. As soon as I walked in, the enticing aroma caught my attention, and I decided to order two dishes: a shrimp curry and a lamb curry, along with basmati rice and garlic naan. I requested both curries to be made extra hot, see the picture below.

Bollywood Masala, "Shrimp curry," Tours, France — Bollywood Masala, “Shrimp curry,” Tours, France

When I brought the dishes home, they turned out to be just what I needed. Both curries were perfectly balanced with the right blend of spices, texture, and body. I drank Vouvary sparkling wine with the food, which provided a welcome change from French cuisine.

52 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours
02 47 66 01 10

La Table Ronde

We spent the entire day in Vouvray and Chinon, exploring these two wine appellations. It was a long day, and since we were leaving early this morning (I’m currently on the train from Tours to Bordeaux as I write this post), my wife preferred not to go far from our Airbnb. I found La Table Ronde located just 1 minute from our Airbnb front door. At the time of this post, Google gives it a rating of 4.8 and TripAdvisor a 4.7, so I decided to give it a try.

To start, we ordered the “Egg mayonnaise with miso served on a bed of tomato tartare and Iberian cebo ham.”

For the main course, my wife chose the “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle, accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce.” The yellow chicken gets its vibrant skin and meat color from being fed corn, whereas white chickens are typically fed wheat and cereals (French: Un poulet jaune ou un poulet blanc), see the picture below.

La Table Ronde's "Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle," accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce," Tours, France — La Table Ronde’s “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle,” accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce,” Tours, France

The dish was beautifully presented, see the picture above. However, the “truffles” turned out to be “truffle oil.” We couldn’t determine whether the truffle oil used was derived from real truffles or was synthetic. Most truffle oil is not actually made from truffles; instead, its primary ingredient is often a chemical created in a laboratory to mimic the aroma of truffles, specifically synthetic 2,4-dithiapentane. Regardless, the dish would have been better without the truffle oil.

I ordered the “Beef Filet à la Normande” for my main course, which was served with café de Paris butter, pepper sauce, homemade fries, and an arugula salad with Parmesan. Traditional Normandy beef comes from castrated male cattle of the Normandy breed, aged between 30 and 48 months. The steak was incredibly tender, the sauce was average, and the fries were soggy.

For dessert, we shared the chees plate.

Ambiance and vibe: 2
Wine by the glass options: 3
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 3
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365 score: 15

Address: 126 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours
Phone: 02 47 64 25 88
https://latableronde37.eatbu.com/?lang=en

October 8, 2025January 12, 2026

Le Bar à Vin CIVB Visit, Bordeaux

My wife and I visited the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council (CIVB) in Bordeaux for a wine workshop and blind tasting. Afterward, we went to its wine bar, “Le Bar à Vin” (“The CIVB Wine Bar”). The experience was both educational and enjoyable.

From my visit, I learned that the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council:

Conducts essential studies to guide, regulate, and organize the Bordeaux wine market.
Aims to promote and enhance the demand for Bordeaux wines.
Monitors the quality of Bordeaux wines during the marketing phase and supports research efforts to adapt the vineyard and improve wine quality.

Additionally, the CVIB:

Publishes and online magazines titled “Bordeaux Magazine.”
Issues a CVIB newsletter concerning news about Bordeaux wines.
Runs a Wine School and workshops; English, too.
Supports an application called “OENO Bordeaux,” a web and mobile training application, and a “Bordeaux Immersive Map” application. Both are available as downloads from Google and Apple.
“Wine Tunes” is an online music playlist designed for enjoying with a glass of wine.

It also hosts an online portal, “Bordeaux Connect,” dedicated solely to Bordeaux wine professionals. I am sure I am leaving something out, but you get the point. In terms of the Bordeaux wine industry, all roads lead to the CVIB.

Finally, and perhaps most importantly for everyone visiting this blog post, the CVIB runs a chic wine bar called “Le Bar à Vin,” where you can taste 30 Bordeaux wines by the glass at affordable prices. The selection is regularly updated to feature different Bordeaux wines.

Le Bar à Vin side seating area, Bordeaux, France

My wife and I participated in a Bordeaux wine tasting workshop that included an excellent presentation on the Bordeaux Wine Region and a blind tasting of six Bourdeux wines. The experience was both educational and enjoyable.

If you are looking for a place to dine when visiting Bordeaux, see my post “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.”

Le Bar à Vin
Address: 3 Cr du 30 Juillet, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 00 43 47
https://baravin.bordeaux.com/

October 2, 2025January 12, 2026

Best Glasses for Wine Tasting

My wife and I are in Bordeaux for five months to attend the CAFA Wine School (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). At school, we sample a lot of wines. Sometimes upwards of 16 classes a day. For comparative tastings or judging, the “SPIEGELAU Special Glasses Expert Tasting” is a workhorse. These machine-made crystalline glasses are perfect for tasting and evaluating wines. They are also easy to clean and durable, so I don’t worry about breaking them.

Additionally, they are suitable for enjoying everyday wines at home. However, for that special bottle of wine, particularly Bordeaux wines, since we are currently in Bordeaux, we prefer to use the Zalto glasses.

Zalto's DENK'ART "BORDEAUX," wine glass — Zalto’s DENK’ART “BORDEAUX,” wine glass

According to its website, the Zalto DENK’ART series glasses are handcrafted. It takes eight people to make one glass. The glasses are created freehand, except for the bowl, which is blown into a mold. Zalto glasses are elegant works of art. They are a pleasure to hold and feature a rim that feels almost invisible to the lips, enhancing the overall wine-drinking experience. Zalto offers a glass for major wines and the “UNIVERSAL,” a catch-all that works well across all wines. For Bordeaux wines, we use the Zalto “BORDEAUX” glass pictured above.

September 30, 2025January 12, 2026

Port de la Lune Cellars Visit, Bordeaux

Port de la Lune Cellars is the first “urban winery” in Bordeaux. It is located in the Chartrons neighborhood. Laurent Bordes founded Port de la Lune Cellars in 2017 to produce wines that are not typically associated with the Bordeaux wine region. As he explained, every other winemaker in Bordeaux makes Bordeaux wines. Why should Port de la Lune Cellars?

As Laurent told us, with a clear vision, he decided to operate outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system and its regulations. The AOC establishes the rules for all French wines, including those from Bordeaux. Instead, he decided to produce “Vin de France” (VdF) wines. Also known as “Wine of France.” VdF regulations allow winemakers more flexibility compared to AOC rules.

Port de la Lune Cellars' urban wine cellar — Port de la Lune Cellars’ urban wine cellar

To realize his vision, as he tells it, Laurent reached out to winegrowers throughout France to source grapes. This was a challenging task, as sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is typical in New World wine regions, such as Napa, California; however, it is less common in France, except in the Burgundy region.

According to Laurent, at first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent’s request. “You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!” Eventually, they understood—today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across France.

Laurent told us that he drives over 10,000 kilometers each year during the harvest to collect grapes and transport them back to Bordeaux for winemaking. After the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location in Bordeaux, the freshly pressed grape juice, known as “must,” is transported to the Port de la Lune Cellars, where alcoholic fermentation (first fermentation) takes place in stainless steel tanks.

During our visit, Laurent explained that all the wines from Port de la Lune Cellars undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with the oak enhances the wines’ aromas and permits oxygen to enter the wine gradually. As a result, the sharp malic acid is converted into softer, creamier lactic acid—similar to the acid found in milk. This process softens the tannins, thereby enhancing the wine’s weight and texture. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots.

Port de la Lune Cellars produces 50,000 bottles of wine each year, and the Laurent personally bottles and wax seals each one (I’m not joking). As he tells it, he tried to recruit people to help him, but after a couple of hours, they had had enough.

All Port de la Lune Cellars wines are organic, meaning they are made with only natural yeast, 1% sulfur, and no fining or filtering. We sampled two white wines and two red wines, all of which were of excellent quality.

A significant portion of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wine is exported, while some is also available for sale in Bordeaux. You can visit Port de la Lune Cellars’ website and use “Click and Collect,” which allows you to purchase the wine online and then schedule a pickup time at Port de la Lune Cellars. However, be aware that Port de la Lune Cellars is a what I call a “wine cellar speakeasy,” meaning there is no sign on the door, so it is easy to walk right past.

Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars' wines since 2017 — Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wines since 2017

Port de la Lune Cellars collects grapes from various wine regions across France that otherwise would not meet and introduces them to each other in Bordeaux through its winemaking process. The result is a “Wine made in Bordeaux” that is modern and appeals to a new generation, with interesting implications for addressing the impact of climate change on the French wine industry.

See my post “Best Place to Eat in Chartrons” to find a place to eat.

Port de la Lune Cellars
Address: 31 bis, rue Barillet-Deschamps, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 6 74 68 47 24