Today, my wife and I were fortunate enough to participate in a wine excursion organized by the wine school we are attending (See my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice. We visited Château Batailley, which is located within the Pauillac AOC. This vineyard is classified as a “Fifth Growth” in the 1885 Classification of Growths.
Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Pauillac AOC
The name “Batailley” comes from the word “Bataille,” which means “battle.” This refers to the conflict that occurred between the French and the English on the same estate in 1453. Château Batailley is one of the oldest estates in Pauillac.
The Classified Growths of 1885
What is “The Classified Growths of 1885,” you ask? In a nutshell, a world’s fair was going to be held in Paris in 1855, known as the 1855 Paris Exposition (French: Exposition Universelle de 1855).
Emperor Napoleon III sought to showcase Bordeaux wines, which had already gained fame in the Middle Ages due to the marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine, whose union had opened the Bordeaux region to the English market and eventually the world.
So, the Emperor requested that the French wine merchants (known as négociants) create a list of the best Bordeaux wines. The wine négociants ranked Bordeaux wines based on the reputation of each château and their trading prices, which were directly tied to the quality of the wines produced by each château at that time.
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar
The wine merchants compiled a list ranking the châteaux as first, second, third, fourth, and fifth most important “growths.” Thus, the “Les Grands Crus classés en 1855” (English: The Classified Growths of 1885) was born, and it stuck.
The Classified Growths of 1885 included 58 châteaux: four were ranked as first growths, 12 as second growths, 14 as third growths, 11 as fourth growths, and 17 as fifth growths. Château Batailley was ranked as a first growth.
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar bottles
Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé en 1855
My wife and I have visited many wineries over the years, but this one stands out as the best. We started our day with a tour of the winemaking operations, led by the winemaker. We were fortunate to witness the process of recovering and pressing the “cap of marc” to obtain press wine that is rich in aromatics and tannins. It was the first time we had seen this done.
After the tour, we enjoyed a tasting of Château Batailley’s wines. This was followed by a lovely lunch hosted by the winery’s president. I cannot express enough how kind and generous our hosts were. The entire day was magical, and I extend my heartfelt thanks to everyone involved.
Recovering and pressing the “cap of marc”
During the alcoholic fermentation of red wine in a tank, yeast converts sugar into alcohol, producing a significant amount of carbon dioxide (CO2). This gas pushes solid components, such as grape skins, pulp, and seeds, upward to the top of the tank, forming a layer known as the “cap of marc.”
Throughout the alcoholic fermentation process, this cap is pushed down into the fermenting grape juice at the discretion of the winemaker. The technique used to break up the floating fruit skins and solids and push them back into the wine is called “punching the cap.” This practice enhances the wine’s flavor and varies in intensity depending on the winemaker’s goals. Instead of punching down, a winemaker may choose to use the “pouring over method.”
After the alcoholic fermentation and any additional maceration have been completed, the wine is “racked,” which means it is transferred from the tank to another tank or barrel. At this stage, the wine is known as free-run wine, which is the liquid that flows out of the tank by gravity when the bottom valve is opened after fermentation.
The “cap of marc” is being removed from the tank for pressing
When the free-run wine is removed, the marc cap, which consists of all the solid parts, such as grape skins and seeds, settles to the bottom of the tank. A person then climbs into the tank to shovel out this material, which is fed into a press to extract the juice known as “must” (using manual, hydraulic, or pneumatic methods). This is called “press wine.”
Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine”
The “press wine” is collected, tasted, and typically stored in vats or barrels based on its quality. Typically, the winemaker combines the press wine with the free-run wine, depending on their objectives.
The remaining solids, known as pomace, are discarded or repurposed for other uses, such as producing spirits or fertilizers.
Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé en, 2017
Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, 2017 Tasting Notes
We sampled a variety of wines, all of which were excellent, see the picture below. However, I want to highlight the Château Batailley “first wine,” which is the winery’s flagship bottling. This wine is a Pauillac AOC wine and has been classified as a 5th Growth since 1855, as discussed above. See the picture above.
Bordeaux 2017: According to the Wine Cellar Insider, “The 2017 Bordeaux vintage is notable for the significant frost that affected the region in April. The best wines from this vintage come from the northern Médoc, with quality diminishing further south. On the Right Bank, Pomerol outperforms Saint-Émilion. However, the 2017 Bordeaux vintage is characterized more by localized terroirs than by specific appellations. The gravel slopes in the northern Médoc, particularly in Pauillac, produced powerful wines.”
Visual examination: A purple color with a garnet rim and garnet hue.
Olfactory examination: Medium plus intensity with notes of ripe fruit, such as blackcurrants, followed by dark chocolate notes, and a whiff of tobacco.
Gustative examination: Elegant, fresh, well structured, balanced, with silky tannins and a persistent finish.
Grape varieties: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot
Serving Temperature: 16-18°C or 61 to 64°F
Aging potential: Drink now or lay down for 10-20 more years.
Reviews: 92/100 Wine Enthusiast
Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise (Rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce) served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries).
Summary: Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé since 1855, beautifully represents Pauillac, offering tremendous value for money with an average price of €33 or $38 on Wine-Searcher.
Note: The five châteaux from 1885 ranked as First Growths, or Premiers Crus Classés, are Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, and Haut-Brion.
Paid tasting of Chateau Margaux 2011 at Max Bordeaux, Wine Gallery & Cellar in Bordeaux, France
My wife and I visited Tours, France, for the weekend to visit the Loire Valley wine region, specifically AOC Vouvray and AOC Chinon. We arrived on Thursday night and left Sunday morning. We stayed in the center of the old town. Below are the best restaurants in Tours that we had time to discover.
Le Petit Patrimoine
I picked restaurant Le Petit Patrimoine for our first night because I was searching for “local” Lorie Valley cuisine. They market themselves as “Country Food Restaurant,” so I expected and experienced akin to an Italian trattoria. Imagine my surprise when we walked in and discovered a chic, trendy Lorie Valley restaurant.
Le Petit Patrimoine is small but mighty. They make trendy cocktails that everyone seems to order. My wife and I were not interested in cocktails but in the wine. So after selecting our meal, we selected a Lorie Valley light red wine from Chinon. AOC Chinon reds are made with Cabernet Franc and come in various styles, ranging from light to medium to full-bodied. We also ordered a medium Chinon. AOC Chinon red, drank a glass, and took the rest back to our Airbnb.
To begin with, we shared the “Tourangelle,” a pie filled with confit pork belly and local goat cheese. For the main course, my wife chose the butternut risotto with chestnuts and tarragon oil, while I ordered the steak with local goat cheese sauce. Both dishes were excellent.
For dessert, we shared the local cheese plate, which included four goat cheeses from the Lorie Valley, see the picture below.
Le Petit Patrimoine’s “Goat cheese plate,” Tours-France
After the cheese plate, we ordered and shared the brioche perdue topped with cacahuète praline, vanilla, and macadamia nut ice cream, because it looked so delicious as it passed by our table.
Ambiance and vibe: 4 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 5
Restaurant Les Arpents is not in Tours; it is in Amboise, but in my opinion, a must-try if you are in the area. They have a variety of menus from which to choose. My wife had the “Menu dijur” and I had the “Chef Surprise Menu.”
We each started with a glass of sparkling wine from the Lorie Valley and were served an aperitif: shortbread flavored with Breton curry and a red beetroot puree.
As an “amuse-bouche,” we were both served a tuna tartare with celery textures.
As a starter, I had squash in different textures (royal squash, spaghetti squash, squash pickles, and squash waffles).
Restaurant Les Arpents’ “Roast hanger steak” served carrots, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, Amboise, France
As a main course, I was served beef and carrots, including roast hanger steak, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, see the picture below.
And for dessert, our signature treat is our own lemon tart. See the picture below.
Ambiance and vibe: 4 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
After lunch, my wife went home to take a nap, while I continued my culinary adventure at Les Halles de Tours. Les Halles de Tours is similar to the other market halls we have visited in France, except for Rouen, which is essentially just a fish store, a cheese shop, a small butchery, and a vegetable shop all under one roof.
I “bellied up” to the “Le Comptoir Saint Kerber,” oyster bar, and ordered six number 3 oysters, as they have sizes 2 and 3 available, see the picture below. In France, oysters are ranked from 000 to 6— the smaller the number, the larger the oyster. Oysters labeled as threes are considered medium-sized.
The oysters are sourced from an oyster farm in Cancale, located in the Brittany region of France, near the stunning Mont-Saint-Michel. Cancale oysters are renowned for their distinct salty hazelnut flavor, see the picture below.
Le Comptoir Saint Kerber Cancale Oysters, Tours, France
In France, oysters are typically served with fresh bread and butter to complement the dish. When I tasted the butter, I instantly recognized it as Bordier Butter, a culinary icon from Brittany.
The unique terroir of the region greatly influences the flavor profile of the cream used to produce this butter. I asked the shop owner where I could find this butter in Tours, and he directed me to a nearby cheese shop just a few meters away.
I decided to buy all they had—seven blocks of Bordier Butter. As I write this post, I’m currently carrying them back with me on the train to Bordeaux.
Bollywood Masala
My wife didn’t want to go out for dinner since we had a big lunch at “Restaurant Les Arpents,” so I wandered our street in search of something to take away.
Rue Colbert, originally built to connect the old and new parts of Tours, is lined with a variety of cuisines, including French, Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Syrian, and even Napoleonic pizza, among others.
While exploring, I discovered Bollywood Masala, a small Indian restaurant. As soon as I walked in, the enticing aroma caught my attention, and I decided to order two dishes: a shrimp curry and a lamb curry, along with basmati rice and garlic naan. I requested both curries to be made extra hot, see the picture below.
Bollywood Masala, “Shrimp curry,” Tours, France
When I brought the dishes home, they turned out to be just what I needed. Both curries were perfectly balanced with the right blend of spices, texture, and body. I drank Vouvary sparkling wine with the food, which provided a welcome change from French cuisine.
52 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours 02 47 66 01 10
La Table Ronde
We spent the entire day in Vouvray and Chinon, exploring these two wine appellations. It was a long day, and since we were leaving early this morning (I’m currently on the train from Tours to Bordeaux as I write this post), my wife preferred not to go far from our Airbnb. I found La Table Ronde located just 1 minute from our Airbnb front door. At the time of this post, Google gives it a rating of 4.8 and TripAdvisor a 4.7, so I decided to give it a try.
To start, we ordered the “Egg mayonnaise with miso served on a bed of tomato tartare and Iberian cebo ham.”
For the main course, my wife chose the “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle, accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce.” The yellow chicken gets its vibrant skin and meat color from being fed corn, whereas white chickens are typically fed wheat and cereals (French: Un poulet jaune ou un poulet blanc), see the picture below.
La Table Ronde’s “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle,” accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce,” Tours, France
The dish was beautifully presented, see the picture above. However, the “truffles” turned out to be “truffle oil.” We couldn’t determine whether the truffle oil used was derived from real truffles or was synthetic. Most truffle oil is not actually made from truffles; instead, its primary ingredient is often a chemical created in a laboratory to mimic the aroma of truffles, specifically synthetic 2,4-dithiapentane. Regardless, the dish would have been better without the truffle oil.
I ordered the “Beef Filet à la Normande” for my main course, which was served with café de Paris butter, pepper sauce, homemade fries, and an arugula salad with Parmesan. Traditional Normandy beef comes from castrated male cattle of the Normandy breed, aged between 30 and 48 months. The steak was incredibly tender, the sauce was average, and the fries were soggy.
For dessert, we shared the chees plate.
Ambiance and vibe: 2 Wine by the glass options: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
My wife and I visited the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council (CIVB) in Bordeaux for a wine workshop and blind tasting. Afterward, we went to its wine bar, “Le Bar à Vin” (“The CIVB Wine Bar”). The experience was both educational and enjoyable.
Le Bar à Vin, Bordeaux, France
From my visit, I learned that the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council:
Conducts essential studies to guide, regulate, and organize the Bordeaux wine market.
Aims to promote and enhance the demand for Bordeaux wines.
Monitors the quality of Bordeaux wines during the marketing phase and supports research efforts to adapt the vineyard and improve wine quality.
Supports an application called “OENO Bordeaux,” a web and mobile training application, and a “Bordeaux Immersive Map” application. Both are available as downloads from Google and Apple.
“Wine Tunes” is an online music playlist designed for enjoying with a glass of wine.
It also hosts an online portal, “Bordeaux Connect,” dedicated solely to Bordeaux wine professionals. I am sure I am leaving something out, but you get the point. In terms of the Bordeaux wine industry, all roads lead to the CVIB.
Finally, and perhaps most importantly for everyone visiting this blog post, the CVIB runs a chic wine bar called “Le Bar à Vin,” where you can taste 30 Bordeaux wines by the glass at affordable prices. The selection is regularly updated to feature different Bordeaux wines.
Le Bar à Vin side seating area, Bordeaux, France
My wife and I participated in a Bordeaux wine tasting workshop that included an excellent presentation on the Bordeaux Wine Region and a blind tasting of six Bourdeux wines. The experience was both educational and enjoyable.
My wife and I are in Bordeaux for five months to attend the CAFA Wine School (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). At school, we sample a lot of wines. Sometimes upwards of 16 classes a day. For comparative tastings or judging, the “SPIEGELAU Special Glasses Expert Tasting” is a workhorse. These machine-made crystalline glasses are perfect for tasting and evaluating wines. They are also easy to clean and durable, so I don’t worry about breaking them.
Additionally, they are suitable for enjoying everyday wines at home. However, for that special bottle of wine, particularly Bordeaux wines, since we are currently in Bordeaux, we prefer to use the Zalto glasses.
Zalto’s DENK’ART “BORDEAUX,” wine glass
According to its website, the Zalto DENK’ART series glasses are handcrafted. It takes eight people to make one glass. The glasses are created freehand, except for the bowl, which is blown into a mold. Zalto glasses are elegant works of art. They are a pleasure to hold and feature a rim that feels almost invisible to the lips, enhancing the overall wine-drinking experience. Zalto offers a glass for major wines and the “UNIVERSAL,” a catch-all that works well across all wines. For Bordeaux wines, we use the Zalto “BORDEAUX” glass pictured above.
Port de la Lune Cellars is the first “urban winery” in Bordeaux. It is located in the Chartrons neighborhood.
Laurent Bordes founded Port de la Lune Cellars in 2017 to produce wines that are not typically associated with the Bordeaux wine region. As he explained, every other winemaker in Bordeaux makes Bordeaux wines. Why should Port de la Lune Cellars?
With a clear vision, Laurent decided to operate outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system and its regulations. The AOC establishes the rules for all French wines, including those from Bordeaux. Instead, he decided to produce “Vin de France” (VdF) wines. Also known as “Wine of France.” VdF regulations allow winemakers more flexibility compared to AOC rules.
Port de la Lune Cellars’ urban wine cellar
To realize his vision, as he tells it, Laurent reached out to winegrowers throughout France to source grapes. This was a challenging task, as sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is typical in New World wine regions, such as Napa, California; however, it is less common in France, except in the Burgundy region.
According to Laurent, at first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent’s request. “You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!” Eventually, they understood—today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across France.
Laurent told us that he drives over 10,000 kilometers each year during the harvest to collect grapes and transport them back to Bordeaux for winemaking. After the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location in Bordeaux, the freshly pressed grape juice, known as “must,” is transported to the Port de la Lune Cellars, where alcoholic fermentation (first fermentation) takes place in stainless steel tanks.
During our visit, Laurent explained that all the wines from Port de la Lune Cellars undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with the oak enhances the wines’ aromas and permits oxygen to enter the wine gradually. As a result, the sharp malic acid is converted into softer, creamier lactic acid—similar to the acid found in milk. This process softens the tannins, thereby enhancing the wine’s weight and texture. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots.
Port de la Lune Cellars produces 50,000 bottles of wine each year, and the Laurent personally bottles and wax seals each one (I’m not joking). As he tells it, he tried to recruit people to help him, but after a couple of hours, they had had enough.
All Port de la Lune Cellars wines are organic, meaning they are made with only natural yeast, 1% sulfur, and no fining or filtering. We sampled two white wines and two red wines, all of which were of excellent quality.
A significant portion of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wine is exported, while some is also available for sale in Bordeaux. You can visit Port de la Lune Cellars’ website and use “Click and Collect,” which allows you to purchase the wine online and then schedule a pickup time at Port de la Lune Cellars. However, be aware that Port de la Lune Cellars is a what I call a “wine cellar speakeasy,” meaning there is no sign on the door, so it is easy to walk right past.
Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wines since 2017
Port de la Lune Cellars collects grapes from various wine regions across France that otherwise would not meet and introduces them to each other in Bordeaux through its winemaking process. The result is a “Wine made in Bordeaux” that is modern and appeals to a new generation, with interesting implications for addressing the impact of climate change on the French wine industry.
My wife and I are attending wine school in Bordeaux (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). We decided to stay in the Chartrons neighborhood for nearly six months because it’s only a 10-minute walk to the school. I explored every nook and cranny, searching for the best restaurants in Chatrons and places to eat, which I outline below.
Steeples of “Église Saint Louis des Chartrons” as seen from my Airbnb living room window
As I write this, it’s 9 AM, and the bells of Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons, located just a block from our Airbnb, are ringing to signal the start of Mass (see picture above).
Chartrons, once the hub of the wine trade in Bordeaux, is now a family-friendly district filled with artisan workshops, boutiques, cafes, and rich history, especially along Rue Notre-Dame. We’re located at the corner of Rue Notre-Dame and Rue Latour, right in the heart of the neighborhood.
On a weekday morning, as we head to school around 8:45 AM, the atmosphere is magical. It reminds me of the scene in “My Fair Lady,” where the market slowly comes to life. The streets are bustling with people as they begin their day, heading to school or work. The locals in Chartrons are friendly, and I often stroll from shop to shop, engaging with the store owners. This neighborhood has become one of my favorite places to live, and I will miss it dearly.
In this post, I share my favorite dining spots in Chartrons, Bordeaux. This list is neighborhood-specific and complements my other post: “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.”
Let’s go!
Baguette, Le Pain De La Renaissance
Le Pain de la Renaissance in Chartrons is my favorite bakery for baguettes, offering a variety of types. However, many other excellent bakeries also have outstanding baguettes, so you really can’t go wrong (it is France, after all).
If you have the opportunity, visit Boulangerie Au Pétrin Moissagais, which claims to have the oldest continuously operating oven in France, pictured below. The wood-burning oven, pictured below, was built in 1765. They still make hearty Gasconian bread from South West France, among many other pastry items.
Boulangerie Au Pétrin Moissagais’ oven, Chartrons, Bordeaux
According to Google, Gascony was a province in the southwestern part of the Kingdom of France, succeeding the Duchy of Gascony. From the 17th century until the French Revolution, it was part of the combined province of Guyenne and Gascony.
Brunch, Les Halles Bacalan
Les Halles Bacalan is a market located in Chartrons, Bordeaux, featuring over 20 different food stalls. Some stalls offer counters with seating, while others do not. Additionally, tables and chairs are available throughout both the indoor and outdoor areas, where you can enjoy your meal. The concept is straightforward: you can choose any food you like and sit in any available spot in the open seating area.
One of our favorite stalls is Les Requins Marteaux, which specializes in seafood and offers a variety of delicious options. One of my personal favorites is their “Shrimp and Avocado Salad,” as shown in the picture below.
Les Requins Marteaux “Shrimp and Avocado Salad,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Empanada, Au Bon Goût Latino
I took a break from wine school today and spent my time exploring the Chatrons, searching for foods I hadn’t tried before. On my way to lunch at Luna, discussed below, I stumbled upon Au Bon Goût Latino, a food truck located behind the “Place Paul Doumer” tram stop in the Chartrons neighborhood where I live.
I was excited and curious. I enjoy food trucks and have a particular fondness for Latin American cuisine, so I stopped by to check it out. As I approached, my first impression of Au Bon Goût Latino was that it is a high-quality food truck.
The USA has many food trucks, and I can tell you that some have a more overall appealing vibe than others. From the start, I could tell that Au Bon Goût Latino was a quality food truck akin to those found on the North Shore of Hawaii. It was well-designed, open, and clean.
Au Bon Goût Latino specializes in Peruvian empanadas and arepas, among other offerings. Empanadas are golden-brown Latin American pastries filled with seasoned beef, chicken, pork, and other ingredients- think portable American pot pies. In the Au Bon Goût Latino case, they also feature spinach, tuna, and lasagna.
That’s right—Au Bon Goût Latino makes empanadas filled with classic lasagna, which includes spicy minced meat, mixed with ham, pasta, and tomato, and béchamel sauce, as shown in the picture below.
Au Bon Goût Latino “Lasagna Empanada,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I have tried many empanadas in the past, but have often been disappointed. Generally, the pastry-to-filling ratio is unbalanced, resulting in an insufficient amount of filling. However, that is not the case with Au Bon Goût Latino’s empanadas, which are generously filled, resulting in a perfect balance between the dough and filling. They are delicious.
I had to try their lasagna empanada, pictured below, because it was a novel and creative concept. I took home Au Bon Goût Latino’s Chicken Aji Empanada. This Peruvian classic is filled with shredded chicken simmered in a creamy ají amarillo (a non-spicy sauce), walnuts, bread, and spices, and comes with a garlic and cilantro sauce on the side. I plated it at home, as shown in the picture below. It was delicious, and the sauce was excellent, satisfying my craving for flavors beyond French.
Au Bon Goût Latino “Chicken Aji Empanada,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Additionally, the staff operating the truck are lovely, friendly, and accommodating, which creates a perfect experience. So, if you are walking around Chartrons, seek out Au Bon Goût Latino and buy an empanada, an arepa, or two or three to try. You will be glad that you did.
Who doesn’t love cake? La Maison de Blanche makes the best chiffon cakes I have ever tasted, even better than those I made in pastry school. Each is perfect for eating alone or for sharing, as pictured below.
The White House “Sunflower,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I found the “Sunflower” particularly noteworthy, as I have learned to make my own version in pastry school. They also offer crowd-pleasers like “Snickers” and “Tiramisu,” among others.
However, my genoise wasn’t as light and airy. When I inquired about their secret, I was told it relates to the ratio of whipped egg whites to egg yolks and the oven temperature, but the specific details were not shared.
La Maison de Blanche features a counter and offers tables, allowing you to enjoy your cake on-site with a beverage or take it to go.
La Maison de Blanche Address: 37 Rue Camille Godard, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 07 69 56 55 92
Chicken Ceaser Salad, Molly Malones
Molly Malone’s features tables both inside and outside, offering attentive and efficient service, as well as well-portioned food. I often order the “Fish and Chips,” while my wife usually chooses the “Chicken Caesar Salad,” which, in my opinion, is the best Caesar salad we have found in France (and we have been in France for over a year and traveled all over), see the picture below.
Molly Malone’s “Chicken Caesar Salad,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I’m not saying it’s gourmet, but I would describe it as a classic American Caesar salad—if that’s even a thing. Molly’s offers more than just Caesar salad. I’ve also tried the fish and chips and the steak with fries; both were just as they should be. I plan to sample more dishes for lunch soon.
Another good option is Molly’s “Chicken Wrap,” as shown below. It resembles a Caesar salad but is served in a slightly toasted wrap and accompanied by fries.
Chez Dupont, a typical French Bistro, is located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, and is just 20 meters to the left of my front door. They have an indoor area and a sidewalk that, on a good day, allow you to enjoy the vibe of Chartons.
We each had a complete meal that included a starter, main course, and a shared dessert. Most of the dishes were passable but unmemorable, except for one standout: the “Auros Fat Duck Trilogy,” a dish of fattened duck from the PALMAGRI cooperative, served in three ways: a duck chop, a skewer of aiguillettes, and pan-fried foie gras (see the picture below).
Chez Dupont’s “Auros Fat Duck Trilogy,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Chez Dupont is a classic French bistro. But in my opinion, the food is just “ok,” and service can be inconsistent and occasionally has too much “French” attitude. However, if you live in the Chartrons neighborhood or are planning to visit, it is worth stopping in to sit outside on the sidewalk, share a starter, enjoy a glass of wine, and watch people pass by.
However, if you plan to visit, I suggest making a reservation on their website. If you would like to be seated on the terrace, indicate this in your reservation or send a separate message to the restaurant. Additionally, I would suggest that you specify you would like to sit “under the big awning of the restaurant itself” rather than at the “flimsy” table and chairs they place on the exposed corner across the street to handle the overflow.
Ambiance and vibe: 3 Wine by the glass options: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 16
Chez Dupont Address: 45 Rue Notre Dame Phone: 05 56 81 49 59
French Hamburger, PNY Chartrons
Hamburgers abound in Chartrons, but the crowd favorite is PNY Chartrons. PNY originated in Paris. Like Colette, they call themselves a restaurant because they have tables, chairs, and serve beer and wine.
PNY is a hamburger joint, plain and simple, that serves fast food appetizers, such as corn dogs, onion rings, and jalapeno poppers, as well as sides like loaded fries. It feels like an American hamburger joint that got lost in France.
PNY offers a variety of burgers. I tried the “GOLDEN STATE OF MIND,” flame-grilled PNY minced steak, old-fashioned melted cheddar, iceberg lettuce, beefsteak tomato, pepper sauce, and wholegrain mustard, see the picture below. Additionally, they offer chicken sandwiches and a vegetarian option.
PNY’s “GOLDEN STATE OF MIND,” hamburger, Chartrons, Bordeaux
PNY claims that its bun recipe comes from their grandmother in Ohio, that they hand-cut fries to ensure freshness, and that their burgers taste so good because they are committed to using local, high-quality ingredients.
I must say that the bun was perfect, and the burger was delicious. I give it an edge over Colette’s Burger mentioned below because PNY burgers are flame-grilled at 650°C and come with a “secret sauce” that is a bit spicy. The only better burger I found in France was at Starting Burgers in Strasbourg (see my post “What to Do in Strasbourg, France“).
PNY is very busy, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation online if you plan to visit. We tried walking in last weekend, but we were turned away because they couldn’t accommodate any more tables or orders.
Finally, if you are not French but want to look French while enjoying your hamburger, remember to eat it with a knife and fork, as the French do; otherwise, everyone will know you are a tourist.
I walk past Colette’s Burgers (French: Les Burgers de Colette) frequently, and yesterday I decided to step inside and try one of their hamburgers. I usually don’t prefer French-style hamburgers; when I crave a hamburger, I typically look for a classic American-style burger.
I ordered the namesake, the “Colette.” The story goes that the two guys who created “Colette’s Burgers” had a grandmother named Colette, so they called the “burger joint” after her. The “Colette” is served on a soft potato bun with Aubrac beef steak, grilled bacon, mature cheddar, raclette cheese, candied tomatoes, onion confit, pickles, lamb’s lettuce, and Collette cocktail sauce. I ordered my burger as the French “bleu, extra-rare, very red, see picture below.
The “Colette” hamburger, Colette’s Burgers, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The burger is a perfect balance between sugar, salt, and fat. The Aubrac beef steak is perfectly seasoned and exceptionally tender, melting in my mouth with flavor. This, combined with the sweetness of the onion confit and candied tomatoes, along with Colette’s cocktail sauce, creates a gratifying experience.
Colette’s Burgers originated in Bordeaux, where it now has three locations, and has since expanded throughout France. They offer seating, beer, and wine, along with options for chicken sandwiches and salads.
Colette’s Burgers thinks of itself as a “restaurant,” a point emphasized to me by the person I spoke to at Colette’s Burger Chartrons. However, in my opinion, it would be more accurate to describe Colette’s as a “hamburger joint.” There’s a saying that goes, “If it looks like a duck, swims like a duck, and quacks like a duck, then it probably is a duck.” Ergo, a good French hamburger joint.
PAB Bordeaux serves the best Italian sandwiches, known as Panuozzo, in Chartrons, Bordeaux. A Panuozzo is an Italian sandwich of pizza bread stuffed with fillings of meat and vegetables. It was invented in 1983 by the pizzaiolo Giuseppe Mascolo, from the comune of Gragnano, near Naples, Italy, and was first adopted in the region of the Monti Lattari.
PAB Bordeaux is owned and operated by Leo. The sandwich shop is small, with just a few tables, and offers beer and wine; most people take their sandwiches to go. Leo outsources the pizza bread, which is made from type 00 flour, ensuring a delicate, light crust that remains soft and chewy on the inside. All the meats are imported from Italy.
PAB offers five different sandwiches, and I have tried every one of them. They are all outstanding, but I keep coming back to the PAPI. This sandwich is filled with mortadella, mozzarella “fior di latte” (mozzarella made from cow’s milk, not buffalo milk), house-made pistachio pesto with a hint of garlic, cherry tomatoes, and arugula, as pictured below.
PAB Bordeaux’s Panuozzo, Italian sandwich, Chartrons, Bordeaux
PAB Bordeaux’s sandwiches are easy and fun to eat. The combination of the pizza bread, meats, and fresh ingredients is yummy.
Dolomite Pizza’s “Pannozo Deli Mama”
Another, but very different option is the “Pannozo Deli Mama” sandwich from Dolomite Pizza in Chartrons. This sandwich features jambon blanc with truffle, basil pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, parmesan cheese, arugula, and a creamy gorgonzola sauce, all packed into crispy focaccia pizza bread. See the picture below. I enjoyed it a lot, but my wife did not due to the gorgonzola sauce. I would prepare it at home using a Parmesan cheese sauce to appeal to a broader audience instead.
Pickles is located one block from where I live, so we went to eat there twice this week. Once for dinner and once for lunch. For dinner, we sat inside; for lunch, we sat outside.
The ambiance and vibe are okay, and the staff are very friendly. But the service is sloppy and detracts from the experience. But no one seems to notice. Pickles is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner (a clear plus), and it always seems crowded.
Pickles’ wine-by-the-glass list is generous, featuring four whites, four reds, a rosé, a sparkling wine, and a sweet wine. The prices are fair. They also offer beer and an excellent selection of cocktails. I ordered a Negroni this week, which was well-made and reminiscent of those I had in Florence.
The menu is small, but the “yummy quotient” is high (see my post, “5 Point Restaurant Rating System“). The dishes are well-presented and plated. Between the two visits, we essentially tried all the menu items. Below is a picture of the “Pan-fried Mussels with Thai Coconut and Coriander Sauce,” which I tried for lunch today.
Pickles’ “Pan-fried Mussels with Thai Coconut and Coriander Sauce,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pickles is open every day, which is a real plus. It is definitely worth a visit, but it’s essential to set your expectations regarding the service (at least from what I experienced this week). Its menu is made to share. You can start with small plates, followed by the fish or steak platters. The desserts are fine. However, if you plan to visit during peak hours, I advise making a reservation online.
Ambiance and vibe: 3 Wine by the glass options: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
FUFU Cours Portal, located in Chartrons, is just two blocks from our Airbnb, so we visit it frequently. We always sit at the counter. The restaurant is owned and operated by a first-generation Cambodian couple and their two children, who were born in France.
The atmosphere is friendly and neighborly, reminiscent of a quaint noodle bar in Sendai, Japan (my wife’s mother was from Sendai). Fufu Cours Portal has become our go-to restaurant for Japanese ramen in Bordeaux.
Fufu Ramen is a traditional Japanese ramen bar (Japanese: Ramen-ya) that serves authentic Japanese dishes, including ramen—bowls of broth with homemade noodles—as well as fried pork cutlets, fried shrimp, and side dishes like stir-fried vegetables, and gyoza, dumplings filled with pork and vegetables and wrapped in a thin dough, pictured below.
Gyoza, also known as pot stickers, originated in China, where they are called “jiaozi,” but are now a popular dish in Japan. FUFU serves sake and beer; however, there is no wine.
FUFU’s “Gyoza,” a dumpling filled with pork and vegetables and wrapped in a thin dough, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Many places offer lasagna in Chartons. Here is my take on the best options.
La Tradizione‘s, a casual Italian restaurant featuring traditional decor, specializes in Neapolitan-style pizzas and pasta dishes, and their “Lasagna” is simply perfect. It is the kind of lasagna I love: cooked to perfection with meat, bechamel, and mozzarella, and generously covered in sauce, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux
We began our meal with Bruschetta and a mixed dish of fried calamari and shrimp, both of which I thought were excellent. My wife ordered the chicken Caesar salad, which was terrific and rivaled the one mentioned earlier by Molly, see above.
While many dishes impressed me, the lasagna truly stole the show; it was the best I have had in France over the past year. In Chartrons, I have sampled lasagna at two other restaurants, but La Tradizione stands out as the best.
As I looked around, everyone was ordering the pizza. It also looked perfect. We plan to try La Tradizione’s pizza next. I will advise as soon as possible.
La Tradizione Address: 6 Pl. Paul et Jean Paul Avisseau, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 05 33 05 16 87
Runners-up: Lasagna in Bordeaux, Chartrons
I have also tried three other lasagnas in Bordeaux, Chartrons: Così Si Mangia, LasagnaA, and Marcellino.
Cosi Si Mangia
Cosi Si Mangia is an Italian deli (takeaway only) located in the Chatrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, conveniently close to my home. The deli features a small counter offering a variety of prepared foods. It is situated right next to the wine shop that I visit regularly, which has always piqued my interest in trying their lasagna.
Today, I was lucky enough to purchase the last piece. I brought it home and plated it, see image below. It was delicious, and I would say it’s the second-best lasagna I’ve had in Chartrons. However, for me, La Tradizione’s lasagna, which is smothered in sauce, still holds the number one spot.
Cosi Si Mangia’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Cosi Si Mangia Address: 30 Cr Portal, 33000 Bordeaux
LasagnA
LasagnaA’s lasagna is good, but it is French-style and emphasizes béchamel sauce, which contrasts with La Tradizione’s lasagna. If you prefer French lasagna, then LasagnaA is the better choice. LasagnaA offers various lasagna options at a fair price, each served with a side salad. These include vegetarian, salmon, chicken, and bolognese, among others. They also have a location in the Bordeaux center at 3 Rue de la Merci.
Marcellino‘s lasagna is delicious, but I prefer La Tradizione’s version because it is generously covered in a tomato-based sauce. I would describe La Tradizione’s lasagna as more of an “American lasagna,” featuring a greater amount of sauce and cheese than a traditional Italian version.
In contrast, Marcellino’s lasagna is likely more authentically Italian, with less sauce overall. If you prefer lasagna with less sauce, Marcellino’s might be the better choice for you. However, if you enjoy the flavor profile of Marcellino’s lasagna but would like more sauce, you can always request extra sauce on the side.
Toto lé’ in Chartrons specializes in Réunionnais cuisine. You might be wondering, “What is Réunionnais cuisine?” I was curious about it too when I first passed by Toto lé’ and did a double-take, thinking the restaurant had misspelled “Rouennaise.”
When I got home, I looked up Réunionnais cuisine. I learned that it is the cuisine from the island of Réunion, a French department located in the Indian Ocean, and it is essentially creole cuisine. I was amazed and felt I had to try this place and its unique cuisine.
So, I decided to visit today and ordered a dish to go. I asked Anthony, the owner, which dish was his most popular. He told me it was “Rougai Saucisses.” Anthony filled a to-go box with a generous amount of rice and the “Rougai Saucisses.” I took it home and plated it, see picture below. It was excellent.
Toto Lé’s “Rougai Saucisses,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Toto lé’ is fun to try. It has a few tables inside where you can sit and eat, but it is mainly a takeaway shop.
Marché des Quais is the “Sunday Guay Market” that happens every week in the “Quays of Chartrons.” It essentially begins at the intersection of “Rue Latore” and “Quai des Chartrons” and extends north for several blocks. There are 70 stalls or more stalls featuring local producers, various food vendors, prepared meals, food trucks, and oyster farmers.
There is nothing more French than going to a market and eating oysters, often with a glass of wine or Champagne. Bordeaux is just an hour from Arcachon Bay, one of France’s top oyster farming regions, so the oysters in Bordeaux are fresh, as seen in the picture below.
Marché des Quais’ fresh oysters, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and participate in this long-held tradition.
At the market, oysters are served with lemon, butter, and bread, but not with mignonette. When I inquired about this, they explained, “We eat them naturally.” The butter adds creaminess, while the bread absorbs some of the salty brine, making the dish more substantial than eating oysters alone.
The oysters are served shucked, meaning they are opened with the top shell placed back on like a lid. To eat them, first remove the top shell. Inside, you will find the oyster meat still attached to the bottom shell, along with a liquid that looks like water. This liquid is known as “oyster liquor,” which is a combination of seawater and the oyster’s own juices.
The protocol is to eat, using the small fork provided to detach the oyster from its shell without spilling any of the “oyster liquor.” Then, lift the oyster edge to your lower lip, raise the shell, and allow the “oyster liquor” to slide into your mouth. Swallow.. If you’re unsure about the process, discreetly observe your neighbor for guidance, and you’ll quickly get the hang of it.
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and participate in this long-held French tradition. However, if you can’t make it to the Sunday market, “La Cabane Cent Un” in Chartrons is the next best place to enjoy Arcachon Bay oysters. See the picture below.
La Cabane Cent Un oysters, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pizza, La Tradizione
La Tradizione pizza is by far the overall best pizza I have tried in Chartron’s neighborhood of Bordeaux. The pizza is typical Neapolitan pizza, our favorite.
Neapolitan pizza is a traditional round pizza that originates from the Italian city of Naples. It is characterized by its soft, thin dough with raised edges, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione’s “Margherita Pizza,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
What makes La Tradizione’s pizza particularly special is that all its ingredients are sourced from Italy. They use San Marzano PDO tomatoes for their sauce, along with Campanian mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, and fresh basil.
San Marzano tomatoes (Italian: pomodori pelati, meaning “peeled tomatoes”) are cultivated in a specific region around Naples. To be certified as San Marzano with Protected Designation of Origin (DOP), these tomatoes must be grown in the Sarnese Nocerino Region, located outside of Naples and benefiting from the volcanic soil of Mt. Vesuvius. It’s important to note that the DOP designation applies only to canned tomatoes, not fresh ones. San Marzano tomatoes are sweet, low in acidity, and rich in umami flavor, a characteristic attributed to the volcanic soil of Mt. Vesuvius. I buy these tomatoes regularly to make my homemade tomato sauce.
It’s important to note that Neapolitan pizza should have some moisture in the center. To someone who has never tried this type of pizza before, it may seem soggy. This moisture primarily comes from the use of fresh mozzarella, which is naturally high in water content. You will need to eat with a knife and fork.
If you plan to visit La Tradizione, I recommend making a reservation through their website, as the restaurant is typically crowded.
Pizzeria Mirabella
Pizzeria Mirabella recently received the runner-up prize for the best pizza in Chartrons. I evaluate pizza based on three key elements: crust, sauce, and cheese, along with their respective ratios. My benchmark is Neapolitan pizza from Naples, as mentioned above, which is known for its soft, thin dough with high edges and a perfect sauce-to-cheese ratio. While Pizzeria Mirabella may not be ideal, it is the best option I have found next to the pizza from La Tradizione.
Note: If you plan to visit Pizzeria Mirabella, I recommend making a reservation in advance. The place is cozy but tiny—otherwise, takeaway.
Pizzeria Mirabella’s Margherita pizza with soppressata, Chartrons, Bordeaux
found Papà Lello’s pizza to be overall disappointing for my taste. Pizza Coasy was acceptable, but it lacked enough sauce, and the crust was too thick. Litalia Chartrons had a great atmosphere, but the cheese-to-sauce ratio was too high for my liking; there was an excessive amount of cheese. Pepitom’s Pizza Club pizza, which I tried at Les Halles Bacalan, in my opinion, had no flavor.
Today, we had more time for lunch, which allowed me to visit the restaurant Moelleuses et Persillées, which offers a variety of steak options from around the world, including Kobe from Hyogo, Japan; Wagyu from Australia; Black Angus from Uruguay; Freygaaar from Finland; Dexter from Angleterre, England; and Montbéliarde from France. Moelleuses et Persillées matures its meats on-site. Each breed has a different maturation time, which depends on factors such as marbling and age at slaughter. Moelleuses et Persillées offers a daily menu and presents a selection of meat cuts tableside for review and choosing.
Moelleuses et Persillées offers a great selection of starters. My wife ordered the “Matured Beef Croquettes” with mustard and honey sauce, along with the “Grilled baby lettuce, chimichurri sauce,” both were excellent.
As for me, I decided to order the steak, but my choices were limited since the Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are typically sized and cut for sharing, usually weighing around 700 grams, which was too much for me (even though I planned to take most of it home). However, they did have a 500-gram Dexter steak from Angleterre, England, so I ordered it cooked Bleu, of course. Please see the picture below.
Moelleuses et Persillées, “Dexter Beef,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
The Dexter breed was developed through the genetic selection of cattle from Ireland, England, Scotland, and Wales. The beef produced by Dexter cattle is known for its tenderness and has a sweet, slightly nutty flavor. Additionally, this breed often exhibits a unique marbling pattern referred to as “spider” marbling.
Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are served with a three-pepper sauce and accompanied by a salad or fries. Additionally, you can order a side of pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow. My steak was perfectly cooked, the three-pepper sauce was sun-dried, the salad was nicely dressed in a mustard vinaigrette, and the fries were cooked perfectly.
Moelleuses et Persillées may be expensive, but it is a steak lover’s paradise. Located in the heart of the Chartrons neighborhood, it offers both indoor and outdoor seating, along with excellent service.
I plan to return when I have the opportunity for a proper meal, where I can order wine from their extensive by-the-glass list and indulge in dessert. I’m particularly interested in trying the pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow, along with the “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola” sides.
Ambiance and vibe: 5 Wine by the glass options: 5 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 23
Sushi, YUMI
YUMI is a small shusi shop on the Quais De Bordeaux in Chartrons. My wife and I are fortunate that it is near our Wine School (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux“), so we go once a week for lunch.
While YUMI calls itself a restaurant, I would describe it more as an “unadorned café.” There are tables outside, and inside, there’s a back room with tables but no windows. The decor is quite drab. A husband-and-wife team runs it, and the service is friendly and attentive.
The selection of sushi and sashimi included is generally limited to tuna, salmon, white fish, and shrimp, but what is available is exceptional—truly melt-in-your-mouth sushi. The owner informed me that he sources his fish from Scotland.
My wife often orders the lunch set, which includes miso soup and a small side salad of pickled cabbage. I typically order the sashimi platter, which comes with the pickled cabbage salad, and ask to substitute the rice for miso soup; see the picture below.
My wife and I are currently in Bordeaux to attend the CAFA wine school (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). Before the program started, we spent a week in Cyprus, staying in the old town of Larnaca. Larnaca, also known as Larnaka, is the longest continuously inhabited area in Cyprus, with a history that dates back 4,000 years.
The Church of Saint Lazarus is a late-9th-century church in Larnaca, Cyprus
Larnaca is by far our favorite seaside town on the island. It is not overly polished; it has a warm, Mediterranean atmosphere, and the local Cypriot people are incredibly welcoming.
Here are our favorite places to eat:
Alasia Cafe
Alasia Cafe in Larnaca is a short walk down the promenade from Larnaka Castle, heading toward Mackenzie Beach, across from Militzis’ Restaurant, mentioned below. It offers traditional Cypriot food and wine, and provides a cozy atmosphere with excellent service at reasonable prices.
Alasia is famous throughout the island for its homemade desserts. When we arrived to try them, we looked at the full menu and decided to share a grilled whole fish with fries and a side of tzatziki. The fish was fresh and grilled to perfection.
Next, we ordered three desserts to sample, which were just as advertised. The Loukoumádes, pictured below, are light and crispy Greek doughnuts dipped in honey syrup and served with vanilla ice cream.
Alasia Cafe’s “Loukoumádes” served with vanilla ice cream in Larnaca, Cyprus
If I had more time in Larnaca, I would have gone back to Alasia several more times to try more of the menu.
Although it was my first time in Cyprus, I have visited Greece, its close relation, many times and have always enjoyed dining at traditional tavernas that offer delicious food, lively music, and dancing. I wanted my wife, who had never experienced this before, to enjoy it as well.
So on our trip to Cyprus, I searched extensively for the just the right traditional tavern to take her to for authentic Cypriot food and live music. After an exhaustive search, I decided on Alonia Tavern and called to make a reservation for Saturday night.
Saturday night came, and we took a cab from “Old Town Larnaca” to the tavern. We arrived early and were immediately warmly greeted by the staff, as if we had known each other for years. We felt right at home. At that moment, I knew I had made the right choice.
Up to this point, one thing that impressed me about Cyprus was the openness and friendliness of the Cypriots, especially in the old town of Larnaca and the surrounding villages. The staff at Alonia, along with the musicians and other guests, truly reflected the soul and authentic energy of Cyprus. I knew at that moment it was going to be a magical night to remember.
I digress; I haven’t even mentioned the food yet. It was absolutely fantastic—in the best way possible. They began serving the meza, and it seemed like it would never end. More and more dishes kept coming out. After that, they brought our meat dishes, and the whole meal concluded with a delicious homemade chocolate cake.
At one point, I realized that I had never asked the price of the meal, so I inquired, “How much are we paying for this feast?” The server responded that it was 25 euros per person. I was taken aback. Jokingly, I said, “Is that per dish?” The waiter laughed and clarified, “No, it’s 25 euros per person for the entire meal.” I was dumbfounded.
In all, we served generous portions of:
Bastourma pies, potato salad, Lebanese yogurt dip with minced meat and eggplant, tzatziki dip, tahini, beetroot, and Greek village salad, pictured below.
Sausages, beef liver, mushrooms, and village-style pasta;
Strapatsada (scrambled eggs with tomatoes, green peppers, and caramelized onions);
Chicken livers with mushrooms and caramelised onions, koupepia, and smyrna meatball;
Chicken kebab, pork kebab, sheftalia.
Boneless chicken thigh marinated with oil and smoked paprika, wine-marinated pork bacon, and French fries, and;
Homemade, moist chocolate cake with ice cream for dessert
Alonia’s Tavern bastourma pies, potato salad, Lebanese yogurt dip with minced meat and eggplant, tzatziki dip, tahini, beetroot, and Greek village salad, Larnaca, Cyprus
The tavern is family-owned and operated. Christos (the father) owns the tavern and is the cook. Stephanos (the son) manages the front of the house with the help of his girlfriend. Maire, the mother, also helps in the kitchen.
The band does not have a name. Mr. Christodoulos plays the bouzouki and sings, and Mrs Myroul accompanies him.
You can dance and buy plaster plates for smashing.
Maqam Al-Sultan Restaurant is a Lebanese eatery located adjacent to the Medieval Fort on the Larnaca pier. It offers an extensive selection of hot and cold mezzas, as well as main courses available à la carte or in set menus.
Additionally, a wine list featuring Lebanese and Cypriot wines is available. We chose the “Chateau Ksara Le Prieuré,” which comes from one of Lebanon’s oldest vineyards, established in 1857.
Over two nights, we sampled ten different hot and cold mezzas (there are more):
Hummus – chickpea puree with sesame paste (Tahini) and lemon juice.
Hummus Beiruti – chickpea puree with hot pepper, parsley, sesame paste (Tahini), and lemon juice
Shanklish – strained yogurt, oregano, and dry spices, topped with fresh tomato, onion, and olive oil
Moutabal Baba Ghanouj – grilled aubergine puree mixed with sesame paste (Tahini) and lemon juice.
Rahib – grilled aubergine mixed with sweet bell peppers, garlic, finely chopped onion, and parsley, dressed with pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, and olive oil.
Moussaka Batinjan – fried aubergine baked with tomato, onion, garlic, chickpeas, and spices.
Fattoush – lettuce, tomato, cucumber, onion, radish, pomegranate seeds, and toasted pieces of Lebanese bread, served with Al-Sultan sauce dressing.
Tabbouleh – parsley salad with tomato, crushed wheat, onion, fresh mint, lemon juice, and olive oil dressing.
Muhammara – a blend of grilled sweet red pepper, crushed walnuts, olive oil, paprika, and Lebanese herbs.
Warak Inab B’Zeit, – vine leaves filled with rice, tomato, parsley, mint, and onion, cooked in olive oil with lemon juice.
Kibbeh Maklieh, five pieces of deep-fried traditional Lebanese meatballs filled with sautéed minced lamb and beef, onion, and pine nuts, pictured below.
Jawaneh, six pieces of charcoal-grilled marinated chicken wings, served with garlic sauce.
Maqam-Al-Sultan’s “Kibbeh Maklieh,” deep-fried traditional Lebanese meatballs filled with sautéed minced lamb and beef, onion, and pine nuts, Larnaca, Cyprus
If you make it through the mezza, as mentioned above, Maqam Al-Sultan offers a selection of main courses, including meat and fish options. The first night, after all the mezza, I ordered the “Mixed Grill,” which included four skewers: one of Chicken Kafta, one of Shish Taouk, one of Kafta, and one of Lahem Meshw, pictured below. To say the least, it was “full to bursting.”
Maqam Al Sultan’s “Mixed Grill,” platter, Larnaca, Cyprus
The true highlight of the meal was the dessert. We opted for the baklava, a selection of traditional Lebanese pastries filled with nuts, pictured below. I didn’t have high expectations, as I thought I knew what to expect from baklava based on my previous experiences. However, I was pleasantly surprised. The baklava from Maqam Al-Sultan was exceptional—it truly stood out. It was a home run and easily the best baklava I have ever tasted. They don’t make it in-house. They source from the best Lebanese bakery on the Island.
Maqam Al Sultan’s “Baklava,” Larnaca, Cyprus
Maqam Al-Sultan’s dishes are a journey through Middle Eastern flavours and aromas. They highlight fresh, high-quality ingredients, including herbs like mint, parsley, and cilantro, as well as spices such as sumac, cinnamon, and za’atar, along with fruits like pomegranate.
I have only one word to describe Maqam Al-Sultan: amazing.
Militzis Restaurant is the best place for traditional Cypriot meat dishes… I already wrote about Militzis’ Sheep’s Head (see my post “Try Sheep’s Head, Cyprus“
Pizzeria 485 ° makes classic Neapolitan pizza in Larnaca. All ingredients come from Italy—classic Neapolitan. I ordered the Campania, tomato San Marzano D.O.P., Mozzarella Fiordilatte, Basil, Parmigiano Reggiano D.O.P., Salsiccia Salami, pictured below.
Pizzeria 485’s “Campania” pizza, Larnaca, Cyprus
Address: Q City Center |, D.N Dimitriou 11, Larnaca 6022, Cyprus Phone: +357 70 000485
Stou Roushia
Recommended as “his” local favorite for Greek food by our Airbnb host, “Stou Roushia,” located in Larnaca’s old town, did not disappoint. We went there on our first night and had an excellent selection of meze, grilled lamb, pictured below, and Cypriot wine by the glass.
Takis Georgiou Kafeneio, a sandwich shop in Larnaca, is renowned for making the finest traditional toasted Cypriot sandwiches, made with triara buns.
Two women work behind the counter. The woman I spoke to told me that she has been making sandwiches at Takis since she was 16 years old, or 59 years ago.
The ‘traditional’ Cypriot sandwich includes: ham, cheese, and halloumi, bacon, pork lountza, smoked ham, mayo, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and homemade pickles on the side, pictured below:
My wife and I are currently in Bordeaux, France, attending the CAFA Wine School “Go to Wine School in Bordeaux“. Before our classes began, we visited Cyprus, known for its delicious Cypriot cuisine. One of the most intriguing dishes I tried was sheep’s head, called “Kefalaki” in Greek, which means “little head” (goat head can also be used). Not to be confused with tasty Sheepshead fish.
Traditionally, preparing and serving sheep’s head was essential to ensure that no part of the animal went to waste. Today, it is considered a delicacy appreciated for its different textures: flavorful meat, chewy tongue, and tender brain. The practice of serving sheep’s head at feasts and special occasions continues to be popular among Cypriots.
I Tried Sheep Head at Militzis Restaurant
Militzis Restaurant in Larnaca is where I tried Cypriot sheep’s head. Militzis is one of the oldest family-run restaurants on the island, renowned for its local meat dishes. They prepare the sheep’s head by first grilling the entire head and then placing it in a pressure cooker to enhance its tenderness. The dish was served whole, featuring the jaws, tongue, cheeks, eyeballs, and brain, pictured below.
Before serving, the head was cut in half to expose the brain, making it easier to access for eating, as pictured below.
A Look Inside Militzis Restaurant’s “Sheep’s Head” in Larnaca, Cyprus.
What my Friends had to Say
When I sent the images to some friends on WhatsApp, I received a variety of responses.
The FlanMan: “Ouch. No, thank you.” The Sicilian: “😳prehistoric cuisine?!” The Bernmister: “Whoa! Not sure about that, man 😆” The Hawaiian: “Oh my!” The Cypriot: “Wow? How did u like it?” I answered, “The potatoes were good.”
Sheep’s head is not only a Cypriot Dish
Sheep’s head is not only a dish from Cyprus; it is also prepared and served in various ways throughout Western Asia. Countries such as Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Georgia, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Palestine, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Turkey, the United Arab Emirates, and Yemen all have their own versions of this dish.
However, sheep’s head is not limited to Western Asia. For instance, in Norway, it is a traditional dish served during Christmas time, known as “Smalahove.” This consists of a sheep’s head that has been salt-cured, smoked, and steamed.
According to the “Visit Norway” tourism website, the Voss family produces and sells 70,000 portions of smalahove every autumn, from September to December—now that is a lot of sheep heads!
Iceland also has its version of this dish, called Svið, where the sheep’s head is cut in half and boiled.
In Kazakh culture, which belongs to a Turkic ethnic group native to Central Asia and Eastern Europe, presenting a boiled sheep’s head to the most respected guest is a long-standing tradition during celebrations.
Overall, sheep’s head is a traditional and nostalgic dish found worldwide—a culinary trophy for true food enthusiasts. If you ever have the chance, consider giving it a try.
If you missed your train from Gare Montparnasse (English: Montparnasse train station). Spend the night in Montparnasse. That is what we did.
We were flying back from Cyprus to Bordeaux, France, to attend the CAFA Wine School. (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). It was delayed by 90 minutes. So, we missed our train from Gare Montparnasse to Bordeaux by just five minutes.
I managed to book a room at the Hôtel de Paris Montparnasse through Booking.com. It’s a decent three-star hotel for a one-night stopover. The room was small but recently renovated, featuring hardwood floors, a decent-sized bathroom, a large new TV, air conditioning, and a big window with a view of the city. The staff was helpful and accommodating. The best part is that you can walk out the door, cross the street, and find yourself at Gare Montparnasse (Montparnasse train station).
Église Notre-Dame des Champs, Montparnasse, Paris, France
Fortunately, this allowed us to spend the night in the Montparnasse area of Paris, which is our favorite district. We enjoyed drinks at an outdoor café. I especially like the square around the Edgar Quinet subway station because it is bustling with cafés, making it an excellent spot for people-watching since the subway entrance and exit are located in the square.
St-Germain spritz, Place Edgar Quinet, Montparnasse, Paris
Generally, we “café” at “Café de la Place,” but there were no good seating options, so we walked across the street to La Liberté, located at 11 Boulevard Edgar Quinet, 75014 Paris. It turned out to be a fantastic choice. The wine-by-the-glass selection was more extensive than our usual haunt, the service was exceptional, and the fries were as they should be, pictured below.
La Liberté French Fries, Montparnasse, Paris, France
While I was “cafing” (sitting at the café), I asked the waiter the best place to have dinner. The week before, on our way to Cyprus, we stopped in Montparnasse for the night. We had dinner at “Le Dôme Café,” where I enjoyed the sole meunière, a classic French fish dish made with floured, fried sole, served with hot melted butter, lemon juice, and parsley, pictured below.
Le Dôme Café’s “Sole Meunière,” Montparnasse, Paris, France
This time, I was craving steak. The waiter wasn’t very helpful, but a fellow diner sitting next to me at the café recommended “Les Grillades de Buenos Aires.” He claimed it was the best place to get steak in Paris.
To say the least, I was a bit skeptical, but my entenas were up, so I checked Google Maps, saw that it was 3 minutes away, called, and made a reservation. My wife thought I was nuts. But I reminded her that you never know where or by whom you might find a good idea, and since he was so adamant and didn’t seem insane, his claim warranted further investigation.
“Les Grillades de Buenos Aires” is located across the square from La Liberté, hidden away in plain sight, on “Rue du Montparnasse,” a street littered with crêperies that serve crêpes and galettes. Crêpes are a traditional dish throughout most regions of France, while Galettes are specifically from Brittany (French: Bretagne), and made with buckwheat flour. I walked down this street many times and never noticed “Les Grillades de Buenos Aires.” It is easy to miss.
The door opened at 7:30 PM, and people started to flow in—a promising sign, I thought. Once inside, you are transported to Buenos Aires, surrounded by rustic decor featuring gaucho motifs, pictured below. We managed to get a table for two right by the window.
Les Grillades de Buenos Aires “gaucho motifs” example
My wife ordered a salad, while I opted for the “Bife Ancho,” or Entrecôte beef. I requested my steak to be cooked very rare; I prefer it to be still “mooing” when it arrives at the table—fries, a salad, and Chimichurri sauce accompany the steak.
While we were waiting for the meal to arrive, I saw what looked like a “Chorizo Criollo” (grilled sausage) fly past me on the way to another table. So, we ordered one to try, and it was excellent; pictured below.
Les Grillades de Buenos Aires’ “Chorizo sausage,” Montparnasse, Paris, France
My platter arrived. The steak was perfectly cooked, the fries were just right, and the salad was appropriately dressed. It appeared that I had made a good choice, as I looked around the now full restaurant and noticed that everyone else had ordered the same dish, pictured below.
Les Grillades de Buenos Aires’ “Entrecôte steak,” Montparnasse, Paris, Fance
For dessert, we ordered the “Banana con Dulce De Leche” (Banana with milk jam). Dulce De Leche. Dulce de leche, commonly known as caramelized milk or milk jam, is a sweet treat made by slowly heating sugar and milk together for several hours. It is the most popular dessert in Argentina. In this case, the Dulce de leche was wrapped around a banana. It was delicious, as pictured below.
Les Grillades de Buenos Aires’ “Banana con dulce de leche,” Montparnasse, Paris, France
We paid and returned to the hotel, channeling my inner “Carrie Bradshaw.” I asked myself, “Did I just eat the best steak in Paris?” I thought, maybe.
In late August 2025, we arrived in Bordeaux to attend the CAFA Wine School as full-time students pursuing a “Diplôme de Conseiller en Vin,” or “Wine Consultant Diploma,” and professional title “Sommelier Advisor,” after traveling in France since April (e.g., see my post “Alsace Wine Region: In a Nutshell“).
Why CAFA Wine School
First and foremost, location, location, location. Bordeaux, France, is one of the premier destinations for studying wine, thanks to its historical significance in viticulture, its renowned wineries, and its proximity to international trade events.
Porte Cailhau, Bordeaux, France
Second, the CAFA Wine School program fits our lifestyle and needs. Its “Wine Consultant Diploma” provides targeted, practical training. This qualification is recognized by the French State and is registered with the RNCP under No. 38134 at Level 5 of the Training Framework.
A “Sommelier Advisor” is responsible for supporting, advising, auditing, and developing a wine offering within hotels, restaurants, wine bars, retail stores, and large-scale distribution. The “CAFA Wine School “Wine Consultant Diploma was the right choice for us since we each already hold advanced degrees.
Third, we received outstanding support throughout the entire application and visa extension process. CAFA staff exceeded our expectations.
As I write this, we are in Larnaca, Cyprus. It is 2:33 AM. We will leave Cyprus at 5:00 AM (I hope my cab driver comes on time) and head back to our Airbnb in Bordeaux, France. Wine school starts on Monday, September 22, 2025.
