This is first-hand advice from me, Bonvivant365. I dined at 17 Lyon bouchons over six weeks. Below is everything I think you need to know.
What is a Lyon bouchon?
Bouchons, a culinary tradition in the city of Lyon, are renowned for their traditional dishes. It is believed that Bouchons began with Lyonnaise Mothers (Mères Lyonnaises), who opened their homes to serve meals to the city’s workers.
Bouchon menu structure
A menu is called a “Map,” at least on most Bouchon websites.
In France, a typical Bouchon meal consists of three courses: entrée (starter), plat principal (main course), fromage (cheese course), and/or dessert. Bouchons offer a variety of set menus based on these three courses.
A specific menu is typically structured so you can select a Starter + Main Course + Dessert, OR Starter + Main Course, OR Main Course + Dessert.
The “Menu du Jour” (“Menu of the Day”) provides the best value but is the most limited in choice and supply. It is generally limited to lunch Monday through Friday, but is sometimes offered on Saturday. The “Menu du Jour” is a small menu of suggestions prepared according to the chef’s mood. While a Bouchon’s website may mention offering a “Menu du Jour” and its price, it does not specify the menu items for that day. The menu is typically presented on a “chalkboard ” at the restaurant.
Don’t hesitate to ask if you don’t see a “Menu du Jour” or if the Bouchon staff doesn’t provide one. There was a time when the staff didn’t offer it, and we didn’t think to ask. As a result, we ended up ordering without it, only later to hear the table next to us ordering from the special menu. When we asked the staff why we weren’t offered the “Menu du Jour,” they responded, “You did not ask.” It was a valuable lesson learned.
When a Bouchon runs out of the “Menu du Jour” main course, it will “86” or remove the entire menu, meaning you can no longer order it; the “Menu du Jour” becomes unavailable for that day.
This happened to a guy who sat next to us at a Bouchon last Monday. He arrived late and tried to order the “Menu du Jour.” However, the person next to him had just ordered it and had taken the last portion. He was informed that it was no longer available when he inquired about it. He seemed shocked and thought the Bouchon staff was trying to trick him into ordering the more expensive menu.
I assured him this was not the case and explained that it is common for a Bouchon to run out of the “Menu du Jour,” and in fact, planned. The Bouchon’s goal is to make enough of the main course, pork, to fulfill a certain level of requests, so they have none left over. After all, by definition, the “menu du Jour” will be different tomorrow- at least that is the goal. So, if you count on ordering the “Daily Menu,” get to the Bouchon early.
In addition to the set menus, all the Bouchons I have visited offer à la carte options.
Bouchon menu items
If you go to enough Bouchons, you will see many of the same menu items prepared and presented differently. Here is a brief list of the typical menu items you will find:
Starters: Salade Lyonnaise, Chef’s Terrine, Poached Eggs in Red Wine Sauce, Herring Salad with Potatoes, Hot Sausage, Warm Lentils, Bone Marrow, Saint-Marcellin Cheese…
Main courses: Pike Quenelle, Andouillette, Tripe of some kind, Chicken of some sort, Beef of some sort, port or veal of some sort…
Desserts: Pink Praline Tart, Crème Caramel, Mousse au chocolate, Baba au Rhum, Baba au Rhum…
Bouchon water
When asked, you don’t need to order sparkling or still water unless you want to. Most people, including the French, ask for tap water (Eau du robinet). Just say “tap water, please.” This is a well-understood English phrase.
Bouchon wines
Regarding wine, the typical accompaniment is a “Lyonnais pot” of either Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône. A Lyonnais pot is a bottle with a very thick bottom and a capacity of exactly 46 centiliters. Every Bouchon we visited also offered a wine menu.
Bouchon cost
The meals below cost €100 to €150, depending on how far I deviated from the set menu and whether I ordered a “Lyonnais pot” or a bottle of wine. A perfect meal for two, including wine, costs an average of €60 to €80 per person. However, there is considerable variation, especially if you order à la carte and a bottle of wine. Every Bouchon lists its menus on its website. So, review the website and the menu before you visit.
Bouchon seating
A Bouchon is typically organized into several seating sections, depending on size. Every Bouchon has a counter section at the front of the Bouchon, which offers a vibrant atmosphere. A larger room on the same level often provides additional seating away from the bar. Some Bouchons have an upstairs room that they can utilize when busy, and outdoor seating available in nice weather. Regardless of where you sit, the tables in a Bouchon are generally positioned very close together.
I am very particular about where I sit, so I go the day before or arrive earlier to survey the Bouchon and request my seat. I like to sit in the “counter section” at the front of the house, as this is Bouchon’s emblematic room where the French sit if they can. Some locals visit so often that a custom-engraved brass name plaque defines their favorite table, like a church pew.
Anecdotally, I observed a queue regarding seat choice. Regulars receive priority, and their favorite tables are often reserved. Next, the Bouchon lets you select your seat in order of reservation. But this is not always the case. Sometimes it seems that ensuring you are first in the door is all that matters.
Finally … to be continued.
Bouchon reservations
Finally, plan and make a reservation. All but one of the Bouchons listed here have an online reservation system on their website, except for “Le Comptoir de Léa.” You need to call them to make a reservation. The person who answered the phone spoke French and English. Lunch Monday through Friday is generally not a problem. Dinner is much more challenging, and some Bouchons are closed on weekends.
Bouchon staff and service
First, the service at Bouchon can vary. Some staff members are friendly and helpful, while others may appear indifferent. This is typical in France, so try not to take it personally.
Second, “If you sit, they will come.” This means you should be patient and wait for the server to approach you in their own time. They are often busy and have their own pace. Again, don’t take it personally. Instead, sit back, enjoy the ambiance, and relax.
Finally, as discussed above, some bouchon staff speak English well; some will try, and others will not, nor will they try, and expect you to deal with them in French. If it is possible, ask for an English menu. Grunt “menu anglais.” Otherwise, use Google Translate on your phone to read the menu and point to what you want.
Bouchon tipping
Refer to my post titled “Tipping in Europe: Firsthand advice.”
Bouchon “Certificate of Appreciation”
If you go to enough Bouchons and behave yourself, you might be presented with this award, which I call the Bouchon “Certificate of Appreciation.” Chef Julien Le Guillo from L’Antr’Opotes gave it to me.
It reads: “The restaurant L’Antr’Opotes – Bouchon Lyonnais attests that Mr. Bonvivant365 conducted himself valiantly during today’s meal and proved himself worthy of persevering in this reign. He will always be warmly welcomed in the Bouchon Lyonnais.”
I know it is probably for children. But I feel proud nonetheless (Ok, Ok-I am a complete idiot).
How can you identify an authentic Bouchon in Lyon?
I spent six weeks in Lyon identifying the top bouchons and enjoying lunch or dinner at each one. Visit my blog post to read about how I found them and what I thought: