We traveled to Lyon for six weeks, so I decided to identify the best “Bouchon Lyonnais.” What is a Bouchon Lyonnais, you ask? Simply put, it is a restaurant that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine—homemade regional dishes. But there are so many restaurants in Lyon that claim to be an “authentic” Bouchon – how do I choose?
How I identified the top Bouchons to try in Lyon
The problem is that many restaurateurs in Lyon claim to be Bouchon Lyonnais. So, how do you pick where to go? There are lots of ways. This is how I did it.
I started with the Bouchons, certified by Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association, an organization established to preserve and perpetuate the Lyonnais culinary tradition, akin to the AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée), a protected designation of origin for wine.
This certification ensures that AOP wines comply with specifications based on their origin. Bouchons that bear the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association label meet specific standards. At this posting, 22 Bouchons that are certified by the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association (See the association’s List of Lyonnais Bouchons by District).
According to the association’s website, to become a member, obtain the Les Bouchons Lyonnais label, and use the Les Bouchons Lyonnais trademark, a restaurant must “undergo an audit conducted by an independent firm that includes several objective criteria covering various areas: table products, staff, and customer relations, interior design, the environment and exteriors, and hygiene, safety, and cleanliness.”
So, I set out with a clear objective: to have lunch or dinner at all the Lyonnais Bouchons top or certified Bouchons as defined by the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association and “crown a winner.”* Along the way, I learned that each certified Bouchon has merits. Though I may have preferences, each is a winner and worth a visit, and I mean it. I do not award “Participation Trophies.” Ever.
Let’s go!
Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse
There are three Daniel & Denise Bouchon locations in Lyon. I visited the Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse Bouchon in the 4th arrondissement of Lyon.
I first went to Danile and Denise Croix-Rouse in the evening, and the second was for lunch on a Saturday. Both times, the Bouchon was filled with French and tourists alike, and the vibe felt like a busy Paris bistro. This post documents my first visit.
For the entrée or starter, we shared the bone marrow. Why? Because I looked around, and that was what every French person ordered. The bone marrow was charred and slathered with garlic and fresh herbs. It was the best bone marrow I have ever had. My wife still talks about it. We liked it so much the second time we visited Bouchon that we ordered the bone marrow again. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
My wife ordered the “fish of the day” for her plate or main course, while I chose the “Homemade Pike Quenelle with nantua sauce,” pictured above. Both dishes were well-executed, and the accompanying sauces were sublime. We selected as sides the “Potatoes browned in duck fat” and a “Béchamel pasta gratin.” I liked the pike quenelle, the potatoes, and the pasta grain so much that I ordered them again when I visited.
Next, I ordered the cheese assortment curated by Daniel and Denise. We shared a “Valrhona chocolate pot” and a warm honey-madeleine for dessert.
When I first visited Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse, I was apprehensive due to some of the online reviews that labeled them “touristic.” While I cannot speak about the other two Danile & Denise locations, where I am sure there are minor differences based on the chef’s execution (However, I am confident that the menus, recipes, and processes are the same), the Croix-Rousse was super in every way, with an extensive menu, cordial, efficient service, and quality cusine and desserts.
However, this should come as no surprise, as Danile & Denise have been owned and operated by two Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a.k.a. MOFs) for over 50 years. Whenever I visited another Bouchon and mentioned Daniel and Denise, they were well-regarded by their peers. While more expensive than other Bouchons I tried in Lyon, Daniel & Denise was among the best in the city. As mentioned above, I enjoyed it so much that I returned twice during my stay.
Favorite all-around Bouchon Lyonnaise? Daniel and Denise Croix Rousse.
Address : 8 Rue de Cuire, 69004 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 28 27 44
Website: https://danieletdenise.fr/
Café Comptoir Abel
Café Comptoir Abel (Abel Counter Cafe) is located in Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement.
Established in 1726, Café Comptoir Abel is a Lyonnaise institution. Upon entering the restaurant, we felt we were transported back in time. The owners have collected various objects over the years, adding to the place’s charm. The atmosphere was warm, inviting, and vibrant.
As a starter, I ordered the “Salade Lyonnaise,” a green salad featuring warm croutons, sautéed bacon, and a soft-boiled egg. My wife ordered the “Hot Sausage, Warm Lentils,” pictured below. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal. The hot sausage and warm lentils were presented nicely and tasted delicious.
For her main course, my wife ordered “Abel’s Famous Chicken with Morels in Cream Sauce and Pilaf Rice.” I ordered the “Pike Quenelle Gratine ‘Abel’ Béchamel Mushroom Sauce.” The chicken was delicious, and Abel’s quenelle was light and airy. For dessert, we ordered the “Tart Praline” and “Green Chartreuse frozen Parfait.” Both desserts were as they should be.
I enjoyed Café Comptoir Abel. Disney could not create a better Bouchon ambiance. It is like being transported back in time. Upon entering, you will find a room to the left and another to the right. Ask for the room to the right, at least at lunch. It is the room with the “bar,” lots of light, and where all the French people are seated.
The wait staff did not speak English well, but they were very kind and patiently worked with my wife’s French, which is much better than mine. Since the only sentence I learned to say in French is “Excusez-moi. Je voudrais une part de pizza, s’il vous plaît.” (Excuse me. I want a slice of pizza, please.). The service was excellent. They had white tablecloths and changed the silverware between courses, which is not typical for a Bouchon. If I wanted to visit Bouchon, which has a classic old-world atmosphere with a traditional menu, I would visit Café Comptoir Abel.
Favorite hot sausage, warm lentils? Café Comptoir Abel.
Address: 25 Rue Guynemer, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 37 46 18
Website: https://www.maisonabel.fr/maison-abel/le-cafe-comptoir-chez-abel/
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers (The Cordeliers Cork) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon.
The establishment has a modern yet retro and colorful ambiance. We each ordered a glass of champagne to start our meal.
To start, I chose the “Crusted Pâté,” while my wife opted for the “Soup of the Day,” which turned out to be a mushroom soup. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal. The crusted pâté was large and delicious, served with a small salad and vinaigrette dressing. The mushroom soup was thick and creamy, Auguste Escoffier style.
My wife selected the “Sturgeon, half-cooked with cauliflower prepared in two ways, Jerusalem artichoke chips, and ravigote sauce” for her main course. I ordered the “Traditional Pike Fish Quenelle with lobster bisque and pilaf rice.” The sturgeon had a mild, slightly sweet flavor with a hint of richness, and the ravigote sauce was delightful. The Jerusalem artichoke chips added a fun touch to the dish.
For dessert, we shared the “Lyonnaise Praline Tart” and the “Lemon Tart with Italian Meringue.” The praline tart, pictured above, was served on a thin pastry crust with dots of crème anglaise. The lemon tart was topped with Italian meringue and accented with an intensely lemony gel. Both tarts were exquisite.
Favorite Lyon praline tart? Le Bouchon des Cordeliers.
Address: 15 Rue Claudia, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 03 33 53
Website: https://www.bouchondescordeliers.com/
Le Casse Museau
Le Casse Museau (The Snout Breaker) is situated in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon.
I had the “Herring salad with potatoes” for a starter. My wife had the Salad Lyonnaise. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
My wife had “Aunt Paulette’s chicken with garlic and gratin dauphinoise,” pictured above, for her main course. “Pike quenelle with langoustine sauce and basmati rice.” The quenelle was light and fluffy, as it should be. I wish I had more sauce.
The chicken was delicious and very homey. I kept trying to guess how the sauce was made; at one point, while explaining my feelings about the dish, I mentioned the words “Thanksgiving” and “turkey.” (I did not intend to insinuate that turkey was in the dish.)
Well, this did not go over well. The owner-host thought I suggested the turkey was in the “Aunt Paulette’s chicken with garlic and gratin” dish. He was so flabbergasted that he ran back to the kitchen and came out holding chicken still wrapped in its packaging to assure me that “NO TURKEY” was in the dish and that I must be “cuckoo for Cocoa Puffs” to suggest such.
The entire episode was hilarious since I recognized the significant mistranslation that led to a misunderstanding. However, I fear I may have traumatized the owner-host beyond repair. I am sure he will retell the story again and again from his perspective about the “WAKEY AMERICAN” that suggested “TURKEY” was in “Aunt Paulette’s chicken with garlic and gratin” dish, with poor Aunt Paulette “rolling over in your grave” with each telling.
For dessert, we shared the “Tarte Tatin” and the “Praline Tart,” which were both very homey. On the way out, the chef met us at the door to ensure we enjoyed our meal, and all was well.
Favorite garlic chicken? Le Casse Museau.
Address : 2 Rue Chavanne, 69001 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 32 64 42
Website: https://lecassemuseau.com/
La Tête de Lard
La Tête de Lard (The Lard Head) is situated in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon.
For a starter, I ordered the “Roasted bone marrow and foie gras.” My wife ordered the “Ravioli with creamy basil pesto sauce.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
My wife ordered the “Chicken with Morel sauce” for her main course. I ordered the “Pike quenelle with crayfish sauce.” A large, delicious, and perfectly baked macaroni gratin accompanied the meal.
For dessert, I ordered the “Cervelle de canut,” pictured above, which translates to “silk worker’s brain,” after the canuts, the silk workers of 19th-century Lyon. My wife ordered the “Praline Tart with Raspberry Sorbet.”
“Canut Brains” is a creamy cheese dip. The best similarity I can draw is between American French onion dip and tzatziki, minus the dill. It is made using fromage blanc, or “white cheese,” from northern France and southern Belgium. It has the consistency of yogurt and is mild, with a hint of tang.
Traditionally, the cheese is seasoned with mashed cloves of garlic, finely diced shallots, chopped parsley, chives, olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. Bouchons serve “Canut Brains” with bread. It is an unusual dessert, to say the least, and unique to Lyon. I think the shift workers ate it in the morning as hangover food. To me, this makes more sense. I found La Tête de Lard’s “Canut Brains” particularly delicious, making it a great accompaniment to a Super Bowl party.
Favorite “Canuts Brain?” La Tête de Lard.
Address : 13 Rue Désirée, 69001 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 27 96 80
Website: https://www.bouchon-latetedelard.fr/
L’Auberge des canuts
L’Auberge des canuts (Canuts Inn) is situated in the 5th arrondissement of Lyon.
I ordered a trio of traditional Bouchon starters served as a set: “Lentils, pickled herring salad, and sausage” as a starter. My wife did not order a starter. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
For the main course, I ordered the “Pike fish soufflé cooked in a crustacean sauce.” My wife ordered the “Local, free-range chicken with traditional Lyonnaise tomato sauce.” I was unaware there was such a thing as traditional Lyonnaise tomato sauce. I am still trying to figure it out. I will get back to you here. My wife liked the chicken.
For dessert, we ordered the “Chocolate Tart with Caramel Sauce” and the dessert trio, which consisted of “Crème Brûlée, Rice Pudding, and Praline Tart.”
L’Auberge des canuts is in Old Lyon, next to the Saint John the Baptist Cathedral. This area is very touristy, so I don’t have high hopes. However, the service was exemplary, and the food was fine.
Favorite chicken with traditional Lyonnaise tomato sauce? L’Auberge des canuts
Address: 8 Pl. Saint-Jean, 69005 Lyon
Phone: 09 86 50 36 26
Website: https://auberge-des-canuts.com/
Le Poêlon d’Or
Le Poêlon d’Or (The Golden Pan) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon.
The Bouchon is a century-old establishment and a listed French heritage site. It was crowded with French locals. Some have come so often and for so long that they have a cast bronze plaque commemorating their table. The restaurant takes pride in being part of the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” group. Mentions are everywhere.
I ordered the “Artichoke Heart with Duck Foie Gras” as a starter. My wife chose the “Salad of the Day,” which featured gravlax salmon served inside an avocado half, accompanied by a small side salad with vinaigrette. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
For the main course, my wife chose the “Chicken Supreme with Morel Mushroom Cream Sauce and Roasted Potatoes.” I opted for the “Traditional Lyonnaise Pike Quenelle Gratin,” which came with a choice of sauce: Mushroom Béchamel or Crayfish Sauce. Naturally, I selected the crayfish sauce, also known as Nantua sauce.
The chicken was perfectly cooked, and the sauce met all expectations. The pike quenelle arrived “swimming in Nantua sauce,” which was expertly prepared. Having made Nantua sauce many times, I can appreciate the ingredients and the time needed to achieve a proper concentration of crayfish umami.* We were told that Chef Mickaël Lorini has prepared pike quenelles for 15 years.
We tried new dessert ideas: “French Toast with Raisins and Rum Crème Anglaise” and the “Colonel Cup,” featuring Lemon Sorbet Vodka. I had never tried these desserts before, so it was something new. If I had a do-over, I would order the “Floating Island with Pink Pralines,” which seemed to be every French person’s favorite.
Favorite Nantua sauce? Le Poêlon d’Or.
NOTE: The intense flavor of the Nantua sauce may not be for all.
Address : 29 Rue des Remparts d’Ainay, 69002 Lyon
Phone : 04 78 37 65 60
Website: https://www.lepoelondor-restaurant.fr/
Café du Jura
Café du Jura is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon.
I ordered the “Herring Salad,” which was served with mixed salad, organic eggs, and marinated smoked herring fillets as a starter. My wife ordered the “Tradition Lyannaise Salad,” which was served with curly lettuce, organic poached egg, croutons, and bacon. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
For the main course, I ordered the “Homemade Pike Quenelle with Lobster Sauce and Basmati Rice.” My wife ordered the “Creamy Bresse chicken with morels, basmati rice.” This was the first time I found “de volaille Bresse,” or Bresse chicken, pictured below. It comes from Bresse, France, and is the most expensive chicken in the world.
The chicken served was well-cooked, which suited my wife. By this, I mean I believe the chicken was cooked to 165°F (74°C) and rested, a restaurant standard for safe minimum internal temperature. I prefer my chicken cooked at 155°F (64°C) and then rested, which results in a juicy chicken breast. Ergo is slightly undercooked and not recommended.
For dessert, we shared the Chartreuse Ice cream.
Café du Jura was a fine Bouchon.Like all the Bouchons, it takes pride in its heritage and place in Lyon’s world-class food scene. We went on a Saturday for lunch, so it was packed. They had to turn people away, emphasizing the importance of securing a reservation in advance. The chef made the rounds, and we met him.
Favorite Bresse chicken? Café du Jura.
Address: 25 Rue Tupin, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 42 20 57
Website: https://cafedujura.fr/
Le Vivarais
Le Vivarais is situated in the Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement.
My wife ordered the “Zephyr” of glazed tomato, pine nuts, and hazelnuts for her starter. I ordered the “Artichoke Bottom and Homemade Smoked Foie Gras.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
For her main, my wife ordered the “Tournedos of Scorpion Fish, Basil Cream.” I ordered the “Pike-perch fish quenelle, Nantua sauce (Lyon specialty), risotto, and mushrooms.” I do i descrive the quenelle? Words escape me. It was light and fluffy. The sauce was perfectly executed and balanced with the Morels. The Aborino rice added a soft, creamy texture, enhancing the entire dish. The dish was decent, a gastronomic expression of a quenelle. It was neither too light nor too heavy; it was perfectly balanced. I couldn’t stop eating it all. I used bread to mop the bowl clean (“fare la scarpetta”) to show appreciation for the dish and the chef’s cooking. For dessert, we shared the “Lemon Cheesecake” and the “Chocolate Mousse Cake.” Both were lovely.
Le Vivarais is a Bouchon on steroids. It is more akin to a MICHELIN Guide gastronomic restaurant. After all, the chef is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF ). This is not just my opinion; it was the opinion of all the staff at the various Bouchons Lyonnaise Association Bouchons I visited. There are white tablecloths; silverware settings are exchanged between courses, and the food plating and presentation let you know a top chef is behind it all. Not to mention, they have a beautiful selection of desserts displayed in a way that whets the appetite. I would return to try more of the menu.
Favorite all-around pike quenelle? Le Vivarais.
Address: 1 Pl. Gailleton, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 37 85 15
Website: https://www.restaurant-levivarais.fr/
Bouchon Palais Grillet
Bouchon Palais Grillet is situated in the Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement.
For my starter, I ordered the “St Marseillan salad, cheese wrapped in filo dough.” My wife ordered the “Lyonnaise salad.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal. For her main course, my wife ordered the “Onion soup.” I ordered the “Pike quenelle with crab sauce.” We shared the “Apple praline tart” for dessert.
Favorite onion soup? Bouchon Palais Grillet.
Address : 8 Rue Palais Grillet, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 72 04 04 00
Website: https://www.bouchonpalaisgrillet.com/
Les Fines Gueules
Les Fines Gueules is situated in the Lyon’s 5th arrondissement.
Les Fines Gueules is a charming bouchon located in the Vieux Lyon, the oldest part of Lyon, which is very touristy. So, I was a bit worried. But once we arrived, my fears were quickly assuaged. It is a classic Bouchon, with raw stone walls and a down-home feel. There are upstairs and downstairs rooms. We asked to sit in the downstairs room. That staff was very accommodating.
The menu is very extensive. For my starter, I ordered the “Traditional Burgundy snails, garlic, and parsley butter.” My wife had the “Poached eggs, red wine reduction, spring onions, thinly sliced bacon.” We ordered a “Pot of Red Rhone Wine” to accompany the meal.
For here main, my wife ordered the “Fish of the day with sauce vierge,” which was prepared more like a ratatouille. I ordered the “Pike quenelle with homemade crab bisque,” which I was told also included lobster. The quenelle was larger than most. It was served light and fluffy, piping hot, and swimming in sauce. This was the first time I had a “crab and lobster sauce,” which I now understand to be more complex than just crab or lobster sauce alone. The entire dish was excellent. Well worth the visit.
For dessert, we ordered the “Grand Marnier liquor ice cream parfait,” since I had never had it before, and the “Praline tart.” Having made many tart shells, I can say that this tart was excellent without equivocation. I believe that the pie was first blind baked, and then the praline was added and baked again to create a rich, deep tart with lots of texture.
Les Fines Gueules was a quintessential Bouchon experience, nestled in the heart of the tourist area. Who woulda thunk it? I would return without hesitation.
Favorite Burgundy snails, garlic, and parsley butter? Les Fines Gueules.
Address: 16 Rue Lainerie, 69005 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 28 99 14
Webstie: https://les-fines-gueules-lyon.com/fr
Le Bouchon Sully
Le Bouchon Sully is situated in the Lyon’s 6th arrondissement.
My wife ordered the “Lentil Soup,” served in the Paul Bocuse style—thick, creamy, and rich for her starter. I ordered the “Warm Asparagus, Mimosa Egg Vinaigrette, and Parmesan Crumble,” pictured below.
For her main course, my wife ordered the “Roasted Veal Breast and Loin, Spring Vegetables, and Braising Juice.” I ordered the “Pike quenelle, Nantua sauce, and rice.”
We shared the “Floating Island” (poached meringue) with pralines from Saint Genix for dessert.
Favorite Asparagus Mimosa? Le Bouchon Sully.
Address: 20 Rue Sully, 69006 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 89 07 09
Website: https://www.lesullylyon.fr/
La Chez Meuniere
La Chez Meuniere (The Miller) is situated in the Lyon’s 1st arrondissement.
We arrived early and were able to select a table for two in front of the house. The Bouchon has a fascinating memorabilia collection on the wall, such as “The Pig of St. Anthony.”
I ordered the “Salad Lyonnaise” for a starter, and my wife ordered the “White asparagus with mayonnaise.” The mayonnaise was well done.
My wife ordered the “Ravioli with cheese and herbs” for her main course, and I ordered the “Pike quenelle, crayfish cream, pilaf rice.” The ravioli was rich, creamy, and tasty. The pike quenelle I received was dense like a pound cake. I have never been served a pike quenelle this way. The Nanuta sauce was very concentrated and rich.
We ordered and shared the “Crème caramel” for dessert. The sugar and water were barely caramelized, forming just a “lightly browned sugar syrup.”
Favorite picture of a pig on the wall? La Chez Meuniere.
Address: 11 Rue Neuve, 69001 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 28 62 91
Website: https://www.lameuniere.fr/
Le Bouchon des Artistes
Le Bouchon des Artistes is located in Lyon’s 3rd arrondissement, a few blocks from “The Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.” It offers an authentic Bouchon menu with twists.
As a starter, we shared the “Caesar Salad,” which included Viennese-style chicken fillets, Parmesan shavings, and candied cherry tomatoes.
Le Bouchon des Artistes “Caesar Salad” was a unique find. It was, in fact, the first time we had found a Caesar salad on a Bouchons Lyonnaise Association member’s menu. The Caesar salad (picture below) was excellent. It was the best Caesar salad we had found since we arrived in France nine months ago. It had lots of lettuce, and the chicken was perfectly prepared. But do not expect a typical garlic anchovy dressing. The dressing was a creamy mayonnaise-based vinaigrette. It was huge. It can feed four people as a starter and two as a main course.
For my main course, I ordered the “Puffed pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, white and wild rice.” My wife ordered the “Grilled scallops, creamy risotto with green asparagus and wild garlic vegetables.” This is the first time we have found grilled scallops on the menu, a twist on the classic French dish “Coquille Saint-Jacques,” a scallop served in a shell with a creamy sauce, tarragon, and melted Gruyère cheese.
We shared the “Creamy dark chocolate, strawberry caramel ganache, and streusel biscuit for dessert.” It was beautifully plated and yummy.
Le Bouchon des Artistes’ is a small and fun Bouchon. It’s one room that holds maybe 50 people. The staff is welcoming and friendly. It’s filled with locals on lunch break and has a great vibe. The menu is traditional with a twist and many interesting options. The desserts are fun and delicious, which is not always true with Bouhcons. We would return anytime.
Favorite Ceasar salad? Le Bouchon des Artistes.
Address : 98 Rue Mazenod, 69003 Lyon
Phone : 04 78 03 37 40
Website: https://www.le-bouchon-des-artistes.fr/
L’antr’O Potes
Le Bouchon Sully is situated in the Lyon’s 6th arrondissement.
First attempt
I made a reservation for April 30th at L’antr’O Potes only to find that the pike quenelle was not on the menu. I could hardly believe it. An association Bouchon without a quenelle on the menu? I spoke to the chef, who explained that tomorrow is May Day in France (Labour Day or Fête du Travail), a major public holiday and the only one on which all but non-essential workers (and those in specific sectors such as the food and restaurant industry) have the day off. So, the Bouchon will be closed for four days. From a food preservation standpoint, preparing pike quenelles before a holiday closing does not make sense because “dough” only lasts four days. However, it made perfect sense to me.
The chef apologized and told me he would have prepared quenelles if I had called ahead. Now I know: if you plan to go to a Bouchon in Lyon before a public holiday and expect to order the pike quenelle, call ahead to ensure it will be part of the menu that day. I rescheduled the reservation for next Tuesday. So, to work toward completing the project before I leave Lyon on May 18th, I have to visit four association Bouchons next week and eat four quenelles. Ugh. But I will soldier on, and I may need to buy bigger pants.
Second attempt
It is a week later—the week of May 8th—and I went to L’antr’O Potes yesterday. The Bouchon has a small front room with “bar tables,” a back room, and a patio. Because it was a holiday week, May 8th was Victory in Europe Day (VE Day), when General de Gaulle officially announced the end of the Second World War to the French public on May 8th 1945. There were not a lot of customers. We sat in the front room, just what seemed to be friends of Chef Julien Le Guillou. Because the Bouchon was not busy, Chef Julien was out front most of the time drinking wine and talking to his cronies.
So, we interacted extensively with Chef Julien. L’antr’O Potes exemplified what the quintessential Bouchon Lyonnais should be or used to be. The restaurant has a counter, picturesque decor, close-set tables, red and white checked tablecloths (in this case, placemats), and a friendly atmosphere with a colorful boss—in this case, Chef Julien. He even has a sign hanging above the bar that reads, “You do not need to be crazy to work here, but it helps!”
My wife ordered the “Tomato salad with Fromage blanc, basil, and truffles” for a starter, and I ordered the “Crispy St. Marcelin cheese, honey, and rosemary,” pictured below. The tomato salad was refreshing, and the St. Marcelin cheese was wrapped and fried in filo dough and served with a simple green salad and vinaigrette dressing. When opened, it oozed cheese. It beats fried mozzarella sticks.
In addition, Chef Julien gave us a slice of his “Lyon sausage in brioche” (Saucisson Brioché Lyonnais) to try. He has a baker friend who makes the brioche, which he combines with his sausage from his butcher, forms, and bakes. The slice of brioche with sausage in the middle was cut into four equal pieces before serving with a toothpick in each sausage section so we could grab a perfect single bite of sausage and brioche. This was an excellent way to serve this appetizer.
My wife ordered “Toulouse Sausage with wild garlic, potato puree, and sautéed vegetables” for her main. I ordered the “Pike quenelle, Nantua sauce.” Both were excellent.
For dessert, we ordered “Strawberries in syrup with pink pralines and Chantilly Cream” and “Half-cooked chocolate” (Molten chocolate cake with caramel sauce and Chantilly cream).
L’antr’O Potes was a lot of fun—no doubt because we spent more time with the Chef than at any other Bouchon. That said, L’antr’O Potes is a Bouchon I would return to again and again if I lived in Lyon. Not only does it offer a traditional Bouchon menu, but it also has a lot of other menu items, such as “Homemade fish fritters with spicy sauce,” “XXL roasted marrow bone lengthwise, country bread,” “Bowl of Fries,” and a host of “Dishes of the moment,” to pique interest.
Favorite Lyon sausage in brioche? L’antr’O Potes.
Address : 118 Rue Bossuet, 69006 Lyon
Phone: 04 81 65 29 78
Website: https://lantropotes-lyon.fr/fr
Bistrot du Marché Chez Nénette
Bistrot du Marché Chez Nénette (Market Bistro at Nénette) is not in Lyon but in the village of Les Chères, which is approximately 22km from Lyon—44 euros by Uber.
For my starter, I ordered the “Roasted bone marrow with Grenada sea salt.” My wife ordered “Meme’s Green Salad.”
My wife ordered the “Smoked Sausage with full-bodied beef jus served with roasted baby potatoes,” see below for her main course. I ordered the “Artisanal pike quenelle of the sun, Nantua sauce.”
We ordered and shared “Chocolate mouse with raspberry sauce and Chantilly cream” for dessert.
Address : 10 Place de l’Église, 69380 Les Chères
Phone : 04 78 03 37 40
Website: https://bistrot-du-marche.fr/?page_id=34&lang=en
Les Culottes Longues
Les Culottes Longues (Long Panties) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon near Place Bellecour. Just when I thought I had seen it all and it could not get any better, it did.
True to form, my wife and I arrived 10 minutes early so I could scout for seating. The Bouchon has a downstairs and an upstairs room. I chose to sit at the table next to the kitchen. We found ourselves at the crossroads of all the action.
I could see right into the kitchen, talk to Chef David Cano and his junior Chef, and watch them prepare meals at a record pace in the small galley kitchen. My seat was essentially a “chef’s table.” When time allowed, Chef David stood watch over the dining room and moved back and forth from his post, checking on guests. His presence commanded the room.
But it all makes sense. Les Culottes Longues is Chef David Cano’s home. He grew up there. He started at the Bouchon over twenty years ago as a commis, junior chef, worked his way up to the chef, and bought Les Culottes Longues in 2005. Les Culottes Longues is Chef David; Chef David is Les Culottes Longues. You can’t separate the two.
We started with an off-menu mixed hors d’oeuvres platter, including potato salad with ham and classic French cornichon pickles, warm lentil salad with sausage, beef gravlax atop a mango salad, seafood en croute seasoned with mayonnaise-based sauce, and a cheese tart with tomato confiture. We also ordered the puff pastry with escargot and frog legs.
For her main course, my wife ordered the Mesulin salad with roasted red pepper, cantal cheese, and Iberian ham (pictured below). I ordered the quenelle, fish cake, and lobster sauce, followed by the Entrecôte beef with garlic mashed potatoes.
Entrecôte beef is a premium cut commonly used for steaks and roasts. Traditionally, entrecôte is a boneless cut from the rib area, known by various names, including rib, ribeye, Scotch fillet, club steak, or Delmonico. Chef David ages his entrecôte beef in-house for four months, showcases it in the kitchen window, and cuts it to order. Though I was already full, I couldn’t resist ordering it.
We share the Lemon tart, strawberry tiramisu, and espresso for dessert.
Finally, we finished with two shots of the in-house digestive made from Pink Praline syrup and liquor, with several floating pistachios in it, compliments of the chef.
Address: 42 Rue Sala, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 37 13 00
Menu: les-culottes-longues.com
Le Comptoir de Léa
Le Comptoir de Léa (BOUCHON LÉA) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon.
For my starter, I ordered the grilled bone marrow. My wife ordered the
brioche sausage with port sauce.
My wife ordered Chicken fricassee with tarragon vinegar, mushrooms, and homemade mashed potatoes for her main course. I ordered the homemade pike quenelle, lobster sauce, and pilaf rice.
We ordered Chartreuse parfait, pictured above, the strawberry crisp, and mint syrup for dessert.
Address: 11 Pl. Antonin Gourju, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 42 03 13
Refer to my post titled ” Top Quenelles in Lyon” to see the pike quenelles from each Les Bouchons Lyonnais association Bouchon I visited.
* Daniel & Denise have three locations in Lyon. Since all the Daniel & Denise bouchons are overseen by the same chef and boast the same menu, I went to the Daniel and Denise Croix Rousse. I did not go to the Daniel & Denise Créqui or the Daniel & Denise Saint-Jean. Additionally, since Market Bistro at Nénette is not located in Lyon, I did not have the opportunity to visit it.