Since 2019, when I first tried my first Chablis Grand Cru, it has been my dream to stand on the hill of Chablis. So, when my wife and I visited Dijon for a month, I planned a trip from Dijon for a day and a half.
So, if you are asking about what to do in Chablis or are interested in wine tasting in Chablis, this is what I discovered.
Let’s go!
Porte Noël, Chablis, France
Chablis soil
To understand Chablis, you have to appreciate its soil.
First, it’s essential to know that Chablis was once covered by the sea millions of years ago. As a result, its soil is a mixture of clay and calcium-rich limestone rocks called marl. The vineyards are littered with stones.
Clay and limestone soil, Chablis, France
Why? Limestone rocks form when small sea creatures die, and they sink to the ocean floor. Over time, as their skeletons and shells accumulate on top of one another, the pressure causes them to transform into rock.
Second, you need to know that Chablis has two types of soils: Kimmeridgian and Portlandian. The Kimmeridgian soil is older and is located lower on the hill. It has a higher limestone content and is mineral-rich. The ground is littered with stones (called marl) and contains fossilized oyster shells. Portlandian limestone is younger, located higher on the hill, has less limestone content, and lacks minerality. Its stones do not have sea fossils.
Kimmeridgean Marl Chablis, France
Third, you need to know that the more mineral-rich the soil, the drier and fresher the wines are; the less mineral-rich the soil, the more weighty and richly flavored the wines are.
Chablis in a nutshell
Now that you clearly understand the Chablis soil, here are some essential things to know:
The entire Chablis wine region spans approximately 6,000 hectares, or 14,832 acres (1 hectare = 2.471 acres); it is small.
The Serein River flows through Chablis, dividing the wine region into a right and left bank; the river is smaller than you think when you see it.
Serein River, Chablis, France
When standing at the bottom of the hill and looking up, you can only see the middle, not its peak. The top of the mountain is past the treeline, and it is flatter.
Based on quality, Chablis is classified into four types: Petit Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. Petit Chablis is the lesser, and Grand Cru is the queen.
A Chablis vineyard’s microclimate or terroir is defined by its location on the hillside and factors such as sunlight, rainfall, wind, and viticulture practices. There are 47 separate microclimates for Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru: 40 Premier Cru and 7 Grand Cru.
The finest Chablis, known as Chablis Grand Cru, is produced exclusively on the right bank hill bounded by the road. Spanning only 100 hectares. The hill is steeper. It has a southern exposure, more prolonged sun exposure, and thinner topsoil. The soil is 100% Kimmeridgian, rich with fossils. Premier Cru is produced on different hectares on both sides of the hill.
When visiting Chablis, drink Chablis Premier Cru or Chablis Grand Cru; both are widely available and reasonably priced, and you won’t find better access to these wines anywhere else.
Tasting Chablis wine
Chablis is a small town. It is easy to walk around and taste wine. Shops and tasting rooms are owned by individual wine producers, where you can learn about and try Chablis wines. Tastings are not expensive, and in some cases, the tasting cost can be applied to the wine purchased.
A basic tasting includes a Petit Chablis, Chablis, and Premier Cru. Most do not include a Grand Cru because many winemakers do not have a lot of Grand Cru on hand. Why? Because they do not own any Grand Cru vineyards. Instead, they must buy Grand Cru grapes to make a Grand Cru. What they make, they must sell by the bottle.
The best place I found to taste wine in Chablis is William Fèvre. Why? William Fèvre is the largest owner of the Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards on the hill. So, you can taste Petit Chablis, Chablis, and its Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru.
William Fèvre Chablis wine tasting, Chablis France
Plus, the wine consultants are highly knowledgeable and, during the tasting, lead you on an in-depth tour of Chablis without the tasting room.
William Fèvre tasting room 8 Rue Jules Rathier, 89800 Chablis
Touring Chablis vineyards
We spent 36 hours in Chablis but managed to go on two wine tours.
The first Cablis wine tour was with Clotilde Davenne’s boutique, a small shop in downtown Chablis. I chose them because they offered a private tour and drove you around Chablis Grand Cru hill in an electric Citroën Méhari, a lightweight car with a plastic body. It is named after the fast-running dromedary camel, the méhari. Citroën stopped making the car in 1988.
“Clotilde Davenne” is owned and operated by Clotilde Davenne, a French woman entrepreneur who grew up in Burgundy at the foot of the Morvan mountains. See my post “The Best Restaurants in Dijon” to learn about Morvan and Morvan ham. She has quite a story to tell, and when we were there, the staff was preparing for the winery’s 20th anniversary.
Blue Citroën Méhari
Zipping around the Chablis Grand Cru vineyard in the Citroën Méhari with my wife was a hoot. The guide who drove us around was knowledgeable enough. After the drive, you return to Clotilde Davenne’s boutique for a short Chablis wine tasting.
Driving around the Chablis Grand Cru hill in a Citroën Méhari
The second wine tour was with Domaine Céline and Frédéric Gueguen, whose tasting room is right across the street from William Fèvre’s tasting room in Chablis (See above). Gueguen offers two options: a Chablis wine tasting only or a Chablis vineyard tour and tasting in English. We did both.
On day one, we began with the Chablis wine tasting, which was very informative. It included maps and a detailed description of the terroir, covering aspects such as soil type, climate and weather patterns, and topography, including elevation, slope, and sun exposure. Additionally, a looping video in French illustrates Chablis’s geographical history and formation, which is very educational even if you do not speak French.
Chablis, France wine map
On the second day, we took a Chablis vineyard tour and wine tasting that perfectly complemented Clotilde Davenne’s boutique experience, which I have previously discussed. Domaine Gueguen’s guide drove us to the top of the hill and parked the van. From there, we walked down to the Grand Cru vineyards for an informative discussion.
View looking down on Valmur Grand Cru, Chablis, France
Afterward, we made our way back up the hill—an easy walk—and strolled through the Petit Chablis vineyards.
Looking back at Chablis, France, from the Petite Chablis vineyards
Then we walked across the Petit Chablis vineyards to view the Premier Cru vineyards on the other side, before returning to the van. I was happy with this tour, especially since we hadn’t reached the top of the hill the day before; I don’t think the plastic Citroën Méhari could have made it.
View of Premium Cru Vineyards from the Petit Chablis vineyards, Chablis, France
My wife and I traveled to Dijon, France, for four weeks. Whenever we decided where to have lunch or dinner, I always referred to the “MICHELIN Guide” to find the restaurants in Dijon. In this case, I zeroed in on “Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN Restaurants“
The MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants are named after Bibendum, commonly known as the Michelin Man, the mascot for the Michelin Group. In the MICHELIN restaurant rating system, they are above MICHELIN “Selected Restaurants ” and below MICHELIN 1 Star. MICHELIN Bib Gourmands are defined as good-quality, good-value cooking. Experienced foodies and lovers often refer to these establishments as “Fat Boys.”
MICHELIN 1-, 2-, and 3-Star restaurants are incredible; I visit them occasionally. However, my visits have decreased since I attended cooking school in France. My culinary instructor, who once ran several 1-MICHELIN-Star restaurants, often said, “MICHELIN Star restaurants leave ‘all the taste on the check.'” I don’t find that to be true for MICHELIN Bib Gourmands. I have discovered that they perfectly embody the idea of the “Gastronomic meal of the French,” recognized as an intangible UNESCO cultural heritage. These restaurants offer excellent food, atmosphere, and service at a fair price.
What is the alternative? Let’s take a look at TripAdvisor. As of the time of this post, the list of “The 10 Best Restaurants in Dijon” on TripAdvisor includes “Foodies,” “Vauban Cellar,” “It Trattoria,” “Five Guys,” “New School Tacos,” “Starbucks,” “Elmas Kebab du Stade,” “La Cabane à Burger Dijon,” “French Tacos,” “Quick Dijon Gare.”
Apart from “Vauban Cellar,” which seems to have a rockin’ wine selection and outdoor seating in “Liberation Square,” I find this list puzzling. Don’t get me wrong; I enjoy pizza, hamburgers, and tacos like anyone else, and I appreciate them as a refreshing break from French cuisine on occasion. But when travelling, my eating philosophy is “When in Rome,” meaning I prefer to eat French food in France.
Well, you say, ask, “Have you tried Gault&Millau?” Sure, I have. I believe Gault&Millau practices the philosophy of the “Friend to all, enemy to none approach.” Every restaurant and food joint seems to get some level of “Participation trophy.” There are so many listed per toques levels that it is hard to define a selection.
All of this is my own opinion, of course. And you know what they say about opinions, don’t you? I had lunch at all the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Dijon. There are four of them. This is what I experienced:
SPICA
SPICA was the first Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
SPICA offers three-course lunch and dinner menus that change regularly.“ Each menu features a variety of options at every course, including “Entrée + Plat + Dessert.” They also have daily suggestions. Like Cave below, SPICA does not list specific menu items on its website.
As an apéritif, we ordered a “Cremant of Burgundy,” which is a sparkling wine from Burgundy made using the traditional Champagne method.
We were served an amuse-bouche, which was excellent.
For her starter, my wife selected the “Tomato soup, balsamic reduction, stracciatella, speck ham, olive oil, basil.” I selected the “Green bean salad, poultry liver mousse, and raspberry vinaigrette.” SPICA offers an excellent wine-by-the-glass menu featuring Premier Crus. So we ordered wine by the glass to taste various Burgundies.
For my main course, I selected the “Boneless chicken thigh, organic tricolor quinoa, seasonal vegetables, and lemon cream,” pictured below. My wife selected the “Fish of the day.”
I had the “Plate of 3 cheeses from Porcheret.” The Porcheret Cheese Factory is one of the area’s most famous cheese dairies, with a nearly century-long family history. The cheeses are aged in the cellar located just below the store, and the shop showcases almost 200 different products. It is a must-visit when in Dijon.
We shared the “Creain cheese terrine with vanilla beans, strawberry-rhubarb sauce, rhubarb sorbet.”
The food was well prepared, presented, and yummy. At 27 euros for a three-course meal, SPICA represented the spirit of Bib Gourmand.
SPICA is one of the best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my third choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.
Address : 48 Rue de la Préfecture, 21000 Dijon Phone: 06 26 85 87 17
L’Évidence
L’Évidence was the second Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
Since the weather was nice, we stopped for an apéritif at La Brasserie des Loges. They offer Burgundy Premier Cru by the glass. My wife ordered a white wine, and I ordered a Campari Spritz.
L’Évidence offers two—or three—or four-course lunch menus that change regularly.“ Each menu features a variety of options at every course and provides daily suggestions. The menus are regularly updated on the website.
We were served an amuse-bouche, which was excellent.
My wife ordered the two-course menu, which included a choice of “Entree + Main” or “Main + Dessert.” She chose the main and dessert. I chose the three-course menu, which included “Entree + Main + Dessert.”
I ordered the “Homemade parsley ham, mustard, whipped cream, red onion pickles” as a starter, pictured below. Parsley ham (Jambon Persillé De Bourgonne) is a traditional Eastertide dish from Burgundy. Think “SPAM® Classic.” Enjoy it and practice the sausage principle: “If you love something, never find out how it’s made,” John Oliver, British comedian.
The classic recipe for Burgundy Parsley ham includes ham, knuckle of veal, calf’s feet, Bouquet Garni, peppercorns, and white wine. I told you not to ask. It is served all year long. Not just during Easterdite.
L’Évidence’s “Parsley ham”
My wife ordered the “Fish of the day, Madras curry sauce” for her main course, and I ordered the “Rack of veal cooked at low temperature, sliced jus with hazelnut butter.” The chef’s special of the day was “sweetbreads.” I know what you are thinking – a giant sweet French pastry for lunch. The French are so cool! No, these are not delicious French pastries made from sugar and bread.
Sweetbreads are the culinary term for the thymus gland of calves, veal, or lambs (a.k.a. organ meat higher up on the body than “Rocky Mountain oysters”). They are sometimes referred to as throat, gullet, or neck sweetbreads. The term “sweet” refers to their richer and sweeter flavor compared to typical meats, while “bread” comes from an old English word, “bræd,” which means flesh.
When I first dabbled in gastronomy in the early 1990s, I always enjoyed sweetbreads. Today, I do not care for the thought of them or their texture, but I did learn to prepare them during my French culinary school training. You can poach, sauté, or deep fry sweetbreads. If I were to serve sweetbreads, I would deep-fry them and serve as a starter accompanied by a yummy sauce such as Dijon mustard sauce, gribiche sauce, or maybe just ketchup (I’m only kidding). But then perhaps a homemade barbecue sauce (mmm).
I added the “Plate of 4 cheeses from our region” to try local cheese.
My wife’s menu included “Cherries, namelaka dark chocolate, crumble” for dessert. I selected the “Almond shortbread, strawberries, vanilla diplo nat, mint gel” from my menu choices.
L’Évidence was the most expensive of the four Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurants. But it was perfect and worth the visit—the dishes were executed flawlessly.
L’Évidence is one of the Best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my second choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.
Cave was the third Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
Cave Restaurant is the baby brother of its big sister, CIBO, Chef Angelo Ferrigno’s 1-star MICHELIN restaurant just across the street.
Like its big sister, Cave serves creative, modern food and is committed to sourcing its ingredients locally, exclusively within a 200km radius. It offers a simple yet elegant three-course menu with a fixed set of dishes created by the chef, served to everyone at the table. I could not find the menu on the website, so I am unsure how often it changes. I suppose we could call to find out what was offered before going. But we did not. So for us, it was like a chef’s surprise menu.
As is my usual practice, my wife and I arrived early so that I could choose our seats, which is not always possible. In this instance, I could select two seats at the counter, only four of which overlook the small galley kitchen.
The restaurant features one chef and server, making “mise en place” crucial. (Mise en place is a French culinary term that means “putting in place” or “gathering.” It refers to the organization and setup required before cooking.) Watching the chef and server work is akin to watching a ballet unfold.
Cave served Morava ham as an amuse-bouche, see picture below.
Cave’s Morvan ham amuse-bouche
Morvan ham (“Jambon du Morvan”) is a “Historic” Burgundy ham made from pigs raised in the Morvan mountain range in Burgundy-Franche-Comte, France, approximately 63 km west of Dijon.
Dry salted, seasoned, and matured in the maturing cellars for 9 to 18 months, the ham gives it its distinctive aromas and taste. One of the oldest and most noted producers is Fernand Dussert, a founding member of the “Jambon du Morvan association.” Follow the association on Facebook HERE.
On a side note, an alternative to the traditional Burgundy Parsley ham described above (See “L’Évidence”post) is Morvan Parsley Ham (“Jambon Persillé du Morvan”), which is made by marbeling Morvan ham with parsley and garlic, flavored with Aligoté white Burgundy wine, and coated with a light jelly.
The “Chef’s Surprise” lunch menu included:
Menu unigue déj euner
Haricots verts de Mr Vachon French green bean salad of Mr Vachon, Burgundy mozzarella sorbet, and dried beef
Cave’s “French green bean salad of Mr Vachon, Burgundy mozzarella sorbet,
and dried beef”
Silure de Saône, Simon Collin Saône catfish of Simon Collin served with grilled spring onion, cauliflower puree, and fermented cream sabayon sauce
Cave’s “Saône catfish of Simon Collin served with grilled spring onion, cauliflower puree, and fermented cream sabayon sauce”
Fraises de Jean Luc Valliot Strawberries of Jean Luc Valliot served with fresh panna cotta, flouve and reasberry ice cream
Cave’s “Strawberries of Jean Luc Valliot served with fresh panna cotta, flouve and raspberry ice cream”
Mr Vachon, Simon Collin, and Luc Valliot are the local growers or sources. Flouve is an aromatic spirit infused with Flouve Odorante, “Sweat vernal grass,” with a distinctive, pleasant scent of freshly cut hay. Saône is one of the many rivers running through the Val de Saône, approximately 35 km from Dijon. It is full of trout, pike, carp, or catfish.
The entire dining experience was, as the French would say, parfait! Or simply, super! It was the best three-course meal I have ever had for just 30 euros, and one of the finest Bib Gourmand restaurants I have ever encountered. I enjoyed it so much that I made a reservation for next week at CIBO. I will provide an update here afterward.
If I lived in Dijon, I would go whenever the menu changed. Cave is one of the best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my first choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.
SO was the fourth Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
The restaurant is operated by a husband-and-wife team. He is the chef, while she manages the front of the house. The menu is straightforward and affordable. There is a three-course menu, which includes “Entree + Main + Dessert,” or a four-course menu, which provides for “Entree + Main (Fish) + Main (Meat) + Dessert,” or you can order à la carte. You can also add a cheese plate. Each stage featured a choice between two starters, two main courses, and two desserts. In situations like this, we usually order one of each to sample everything. So, we ordered the “Entree + Main + Dessert” menu.
We were not served an amuse-bouche.
For the starter, we shared the chef’s variation of the classic “Oeufs en Meurette” (Poached Eggs in Red Wine Sauce), a traditional Burgundy dish. In this case, the chef presented a poached egg nestled in a bowl of smooth pea velouté, accompanied by a quenelle of pepper cream and the black pudding (a.k.a. blood sausage), potato puree, and salad, pictured below.
SO’s “Black pudding (a.k.a. blood sausage), potato puree, and salad.”
Blood sausage is precisely what its name suggests—sausage made from thickened and encased animal blood, which can come from pigs, sheep, lambs, cows, chickens, or geese. I have always avoided blood sausage, but I decided to try it since it was the only other entrée option available. The taste was okay, but I didn’t like the consistency. The salad was welcomed. The dish’s presentation sparked a conversation between my wife and me about how to serve sausage to our guests.
For the main course, we shared the catch of the day dish and a pork tenderloin dish. The pork was cooked perfectly, lightly pink inside—the way the French eat it. For dessert, we shared a panna cotta infused with Earl Grey tea and topped with exotic fruits and a clafoutis with apricots and Chantilly cream.
Overall, I was not very impressed with the restaurant. It felt like too many shortcuts were taken, especially with the sauces. The dishes seemed like something I could have made at home before attending cooking school. On a positive note, the three-course meal cost was only 24 euros each, so I can’t complain too much, aside from the fact that it felt like a waste of calories. We spent more on wine than on the food itself.
The most intriguing aspect of my experience at the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in Dijon was not what I discovered but what I did not find. Many Burgundy dishes were absent from the menu, including classic Oeufs en Meurette, Burgundy Snails, Gougères, Foie gras and gingerbread paring, beef bourguignon, Coq au vin, poulet Gaston Gérard, Rabbit in Mustard Sauce, and poulet de Bresse, which is regarded as the best-quality table chicken in the world (imagine the perfect trifecta: Bresse chicken stuffed with Foie gras and gingerbread).
I had lunch at all the Lyonnais Bouchons certified by the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association.”* Each time, I ordered the pike quenelle. Over six weeks, I sampled 18 pike quenelles, averaging 3 per week (19, including the pike quenelle I tasted at “Restaurant Paul Bocuse“).
Unfortunately, I had hoped to go on a diet in Lyon to shed the weight I gained during six months of culinary and pastry school. I failed in that endeavor, but I enjoyed every moment of it. So, without further ado (drum roll, please), I present the “Quenelles of the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association.”
Daniel & Denise Quenelle
Daniel and Denise’s pike quenelle, served with Nantua sauce, was beautifully shaped, light, and fluffy. The Nantua sauce had a perfect nappe consistency, a velvety smooth texture, and a deliciously rich umami flavor.
This quality is to be expected, considering that the Bouchon has been run by two “Meilleurs Ouvriers de France” (MOF), or “Best Craftsmen of France,” for over 50 years. You can recognize these chefs by the blue, white, and red collars on their kitchen jackets. As my chef instructors always emphasized, “If you see the blue, white, and red collar on the chef’s jacket—go.”
Daniel & Denise’s pike quenelle with Nantua sauce
Café Comptoir Abel Quenelle
Café Comptoir Abel (Abel Counter Cafe) serves a unique pike quenelle with a béchamel sauce that includes mushrooms instead of the traditional Nantua or crustacean sauce. The staff takes great pride in their quenelle, and rightly so. Established in 1928, Café Comptoir Abel is a cherished institution in Lyon. When I mentioned my project to them, they cautioned that I would not find or taste a pike quenelle quite like theirs in my experiences.
Café Comptoir Abel’s pike quenelle lives up to its reputation. Described as “fresh from the oven, airy, and puffed up like an airship, voluptuously lying in a bath of cream,” it truly delivers on taste. This quenelle is an excellent alternative if you do not like Nantua sauce or any crustacean sauces. The only other establishment labeled Bouchon that offers béchamel sauce with mushrooms is Le Poêlon d’Or, which will be discussed below. At Le Poêlon d’Or, you can choose between béchamel sauce with mushrooms or Nantua sauce.
Café Comptoir Abel’s pike quenelle with béchamel sauce and mushrooms
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers Quenelle
At Le Bouchon des Cordeliers (The Cordeliers Cork), the Lyonnaise quenelle made with pike is served with a delicious lobster sauce. The quenelle is cooked until it is well-done, but not overcooked. While it may not be as light, fluffy, and delicate as some other quenelles, it is still nicely prepared.
During my class at “School Kitchen Gourmets By Institut Lyfe,” the chef explained that traditional Nantua sauce is often replaced with lobster sauce to appeal to a broader audience.
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers’ pike quenelle with lobster sauce
Le Tête De Lard Quenelle
Le Tête De Lard’s (The Lard Head)Le Tête De Lard’s (The Lard Head) pike quenelle is accompanied by a crayfish sauce called Nantua sauce. The quenelle was expertly prepared—light, fluffy, and delicate, precisely as it should be—and generously coated in sauce. There was ample sauce left over to mix with the delicious potato gratin that accompanied the meal.
Le Tête De Lard’s pike quenelle with Nantua sauce
Le Casse Museau Quenelle
Le Casse Museau’s (The Snout Breaker) pike quenelle is served with langoustine sauce. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate as it should be. I wish I had more sauce.
Le Casse Museau’s pike quenelle with langoustine sauce
L’Auberge des Canuts Quenelle
L’Auberge des Canuts’ (The Canuts Inn) Pike quenelle is served with a crustacean sauce, including crab, crayfish, lobster, prawns, or shrimps. This is different from the other Bouchons. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, served with plenty of sauce.
Auberge des Canuts’ pike quenelle with crustacean sauce
Le Poêlon d’Or Quenelle
Le Poêlon d’Or Quenelle (The Golden Pan) pike quenelle is served with the sauce of your choice: Mushroom Béchamel sauce or Nantua sauce (a.k.a. crayfish sauce). Of course, I chose the Nantua sauce. The quenelle was served nicely formed, well-cooked, and piping hot, swimming in sauce.
The chef’s Nantua sauce was not muted; it truly highlighted the flavor of the crayfish. Le Poêlon d’Or’s Nantua sauce was a bold representation, rich in flavor and packed with umami. As a result, it stood out uniquely among all the Bouchons in the association I tried.
Le Poêlon d’Or’s pike quenelle with Nantua sauce
Café du Jura Quenelle
Café du Jura’s quenelle, made from pike, is served with lobster sauce. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, while the sauce was rich in flavor and well-prepared. Overall, this was an excellent quenelle paired with a delicious sauce.
Café du Jura’s pike quenelle with lobster sauce
Le Vivarais Quenelle
The Le Vivarais pike-perch quenelle is served with Nantua sauce, Arborio risotto, and mushrooms, which are incorporated into the sauce. I believe he cooks the Arborio rice in the sauce, allowing it to break down and absorb the flavors, but I am not sure.
The quenelle was large and well-formed like an airship, light and fluffy. The sauce was elegant, like nothing I had before. No matter how full I became, I couldn’t stop eating the entire quenelle and sauce. The chef is a Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF), so I was not surprised—I was just impressed. I plan to attempt to replicate this pike quenelle dish when I have time. I will post the results.
In terms of food, everything at Le Vivarais, which is more akin to a restaurant, was excellent and offered an impressive gastronomic experience.
Le-Vivarais’ Pike-perch fish dumpling, Nantua sauce, risotto, and mushrooms
Bouchon Palais Grillet Quenelle
Bouchon Palais Grillet’s (Grilled Palate Cork) pike quenelle is accompanied by crab bisque. This quenelle was unique in shape, and the crab sauce was a new experience for me.
Bouchon Palais Grillet’s pike quenelle with crab sauce
Les Fines Gueules
At Les Fines Gueules (The Fine Mouths), “Pike fish quenelle, homemade crab, and lobster bisque” was excellent. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, precisely as it should be. The sauce was delicious; however, the portion was so large that I couldn’t finish the quenelle or the bisque.
I apologized to the chef and the waiter for not being able to complete my meal. Les Fines Gueules was one of the best quenelles I have tried.
Les Fines Gueules pike fish quenelle served with homemade crab and lobster bisque
Le Sully
Le Sully (The Sully) pike quenelle is served with Nantua sauce. It was heavier and richer than most. I could not finish it. Frankly, I believe my quenelle was overcooked and not typically served this way, or at least, as a chef, I would not serve it this way.
This highlights the importance of timing when cooking a quenelle. If the timing is slightly off, it can significantly compromise the dish. However, I didn’t blame the chef; after tasting it, I politely said I was too full to finish. It happens—every great chef can have an off day or serve a dish that doesn’t meet expectations. If I find myself in Lyon again, I will try it.
Le Sully pike quenelle with Nantua sauce
La Chez Meuniere
La Chez Meuniere’s (The Miller) pike quenelle I was served was dense like a pound cake. The Nanuta cream sauce was rich and concentrated. I could not eat it.
Frankly, I believe my quenelle was overcooked and not typically served this way, or at least, as a chef, I would not serve it this way. To test my theory, I walked through Bouchon and observed other quenelles that had been served; they looked as they should.
Again, this highlights the importance of timing when cooking a quenelle. If the timing is slightly off, it can significantly compromise the dish. However, I didn’t blame the chef; after tasting it, I politely said I was too full to finish. It happens—every great chef can have an off day or serve a dish that doesn’t meet expectations. If I find myself in Lyon again, I will try it.
La Chez Meuniere’s quenelle, crayfish cream sauce, pilaf rice
Le Bouchon des Artistes
Le Bouchon des Artistes’ (The Artists’ Cork) “Puffed pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, white and wild rice,” was different from the others I tried. It purposefully had a hard top but was light, fluffy, and delicate in the center. The sauce was as expected.
Le Bouchon des Artistes’ “Puffed pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, white and wild rice”
L’antr’O Potes
L’antr’O Potes served a “Puffed Pike Quenelle with Nantua Sauce, white rice, and wild rice” that was a true delight to behold. It was the most soufflé-like quenelle I have ever sampled.
Chef Julien Le Guillou, a disciple of Paul Bocuse, explained that his quenelle dough—a traditional mixture of panade and blended pike meat—is prepared a day in advance. His Nantua sauce, also known as crayfish sauce, is remarkable and takes six hours to make. This meticulous process reflects the classic “Bocuse-esque” style.
After making the quenelle dough, the quenelles are poached in fish fumet for 10 minutes. They are then combined with half-cooked white and wild rice and Nantua sauce in a gratin dish, which is finished in the oven for 10 minutes. The quenelles are served piping hot; the results are outstanding (see picture below).
L’antr’O Potes “Puffed pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, white and wild rice”
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette (Market Bistro at Nénette) ‘s “Artisanal Pike Quenelle, crayfish sauce” was lightly browned. Initially, I thought the quenelle looked undercooked because of its light browning. However, it was perfectly cooked—light, fluffy, delicate, and smooth.
The Nantua sauce was magical. No matter how full I became, it was impossible to stop eating this quenelle. Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette’s pike quenelle is among my all-time favorite pike quenelles.
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette’s “Artisanal Pike Quenelle, crayfish sauce.”
Les Culottes Longues
Les Culottes Longues’ (Long Panties) “Pike Quenelle and Fish Cake, Lobster Sauce” was a new twist. Typically, pike quenelles are served with rice or potatoes, not a fish cake. This innovative twist is typical of Chef David Cano, known for constantly trying new things to improve and progress.
The pike quenelle was light and delicate. The fish case was flaky and yummy. The lobster sauce was delicious. The elements complemented each other perfectly, making the dish easy to eat.
Les Culottes Longues’ “Pike Quenelle and Fish Cake, Lobster Sauce”
Bouchon Léa
Bouchon Léa offers a homemade pike quenelle served with lobster sauce. The quenelle is well-formed, light, and delicate, accompanied by rice pilaf. I found both the quenelle and the sauce to be excellently prepared. It’s worth a try.
We traveled to Lyon for six weeks, so I decided to identify the best “Bouchon Lyonnais.” What is a Bouchon Lyonnais, you ask? Simply put, it is a restaurant that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine—homemade regional dishes. But there are so many restaurants in Lyon that claim to be an “authentic” Bouchon – how do I choose?
How I identified the best Bouchons to try in Lyon
The problem is that many restaurateurs in Lyon claim to be Bouchon Lyonnais. So, how do you pick where to go? There are lots of ways. This is how I did it.
I started with the Bouchons, certified by Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association, an organization established to preserve and perpetuate the Lyonnais culinary tradition, akin to the AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée), a protected designation of origin for wine.
This certification ensures that AOP wines comply with specifications based on their origin. Bouchons that bear the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association label meet specific standards. At this posting, 22 Bouchons are certified by the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association (See the association’s List of Lyonnais Bouchons by District).
Les Bouchons Lyonnais label
According to the association’s website, to become a member, obtain the Les Bouchons Lyonnais label, and use the Les Bouchons Lyonnais trademark, a restaurant must “undergo an audit conducted by an independent firm that includes several objective criteria covering various areas: table products, staff, and customer relations, interior design, the environment and exteriors, and hygiene, safety, and cleanliness.”
So, I set out with a clear objective: to have lunch or dinner at all the Lyonnais Bouchons top or certified Bouchons as defined by the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association and “crown a winner.”* Along the way, I learned that each certified Bouchon has merits. Though I may have preferences, each is a winner and worth a visit, and I mean it. I do not award “Participation Trophies.” Ever.
Let’s go!
Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse
There are three Daniel & Denise Bouchon locations in Lyon. I visited the Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse Bouchon in the 4th arrondissement.
I first went to Danile and Denise Croix-Rouse in the evening, and the second was for lunch on a Saturday. Both times, the Bouchon was filled with French and tourists alike, and the vibe felt like a busy Paris bistro. This post documents my first visit.
For the entrée or starter, we shared the bone marrow. Why? Because I looked around, and that was what every French person ordered. The bone marrow was charred and slathered with garlic and fresh herbs. It was the best bone marrow I have ever had. My wife still talks about it. We liked it so much the second time we visited Bouchon that we ordered the bone marrow again. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
Daniel & Denise’s pike quenelle with Nantua sauce
My wife ordered the “fish of the day” for her plate or main course, while I chose the “Homemade Pike Quenelle with nantua sauce,” pictured above. Both dishes were well-executed, and the accompanying sauces were sublime. We selected as sides the “Potatoes browned in duck fat” and a “Béchamel pasta gratin.” I liked the pike quenelle, the potatoes, and the pasta grain so much that I ordered them again when I visited.
Next, I ordered the cheese assortment curated by Daniel and Denise. We shared the “Valrhona chocolate pot” and a warm honey-madeleine for dessert.
When I first visited Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse, I was apprehensive due to some of the online reviews that labeled them “touristic.” While I cannot speak about the other two Danile & Denise locations, where I am sure there are minor differences based on the chef’s execution (However, I am confident that the menus, recipes, and processes are the same), the Croix-Rousse was super in every way, with an extensive menu, cordial, efficient service, and quality cusine and desserts.
However, this should come as no surprise, as Danile & Denise have been owned and operated by two Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a.k.a. MOFs) for over 50 years. Whenever I visited another Bouchon and mentioned Daniel and Denise, they were well-regarded by their peers. While more expensive than other Bouchons I tried in Lyon, Daniel & Denise was among the best in the city. As mentioned above, I enjoyed it so much that I returned twice during my stay.
Favorite all-around Bouchon Lyonnaise? Daniel and Denise Croix Rousse.
Café Comptoir Abel (Abel Counter Cafe) is in Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement.
Established in 1726, Café Comptoir Abel is a Lyonnaise institution. Upon entering the restaurant, we felt we were transported back in time. The owners have collected various objects over the years, adding to the place’s charm. The atmosphere was warm, inviting, and vibrant.
As a starter, I ordered the “Salade Lyonnaise,” a green salad featuring warm croutons, sautéed bacon, and a soft-boiled egg. My wife ordered the “Hot Sausage, Warm Lentils,” pictured below. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal. The hot sausage and warm lentils were presented nicely and tasted delicious.
Café Comptoir Abel hot sausage, warm lentils
For her main course, my wife ordered “Abel’s Famous Chicken with Morels in Cream Sauce and Pilaf Rice.” I ordered the “Pike Quenelle Gratine ‘Abel’ Béchamel Mushroom Sauce.” The chicken was delicious, and Abel’s quenelle was light and airy. For dessert, we ordered the “Tart Praline” and “Green Chartreuse frozen Parfait.” Both desserts were as they should be.
I enjoyed Café Comptoir Abel. Disney could not create a better Bouchon ambiance. It is like being transported back in time. Upon entering, you will find a room to the left and another to the right. Ask for the room to the right, at least at lunch. It is the room with the “bar,” lots of light, and where all the French people are seated.
The wait staff did not speak English well, but they were very kind and patiently worked with my wife’s French, which is much better than mine. Since the only sentence I learned to say in French is “Excusez-moi. Je voudrais une part de pizza, s’il vous plaît.” (Excuse me. I want a slice of pizza, please.). The service was excellent. They had white tablecloths and changed the silverware between courses, which is not typical for a Bouchon. If I wanted to visit a Bouchon with a classic old-world atmosphere with a traditional menu, I would visit Café Comptoir Abel.
Favorite hot sausage, warm lentils? Café Comptoir Abel.
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers (The Cordeliers Cork) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon. The establishment has a modern yet retro and colorful ambiance. We each ordered a glass of champagne to start our meal.
To start, I chose the “Crusted Pâté,” while my wife opted for the “Soup of the Day,” which turned out to be a mushroom soup. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal. The crusted pâté was large and delicious, served with a small salad and vinaigrette dressing. The mushroom soup was thick and creamy, Auguste Escoffier style.
My wife selected the “Sturgeon, half-cooked with cauliflower prepared in two ways, Jerusalem artichoke chips, and ravigote sauce” for her main course. I ordered the “Traditional Pike Fish Quenelle with lobster bisque and pilaf rice.” The sturgeon had a mild, slightly sweet flavor with a hint of richness, and the ravigote sauce was delightful. The Jerusalem artichoke chips added a fun touch to the dish.
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers’ Lyonnaise Praline Tart
For dessert, we shared the “Lyonnaise Praline Tart” and the “Lemon Tart with Italian Meringue.” The praline tart, pictured above, was served on a thin pastry crust with dots of crème anglaise. The lemon tart was topped with Italian meringue and accented with an intensely lemony gel. Both tarts were exquisite.
Favorite Lyon praline tart? Le Bouchon des Cordeliers.
Le Casse Museau (The Snout Breaker) is situated in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon.
For a starter, I had the “Herring salad with potatoes.” My wife had the Salad Lyonnaise. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
My wife had “Aunt Paulette’s chicken with garlic and gratin dauphinoise,” pictured below, for her main course. I ordered the “Pike quenelle with langoustine sauce and basmati rice.” The quenelle was light and fluffy, as it should be. I wish I had more sauce.
Le Casse Museau Aunt Paulette’s chicken with garlic and gratin dauphinois
The chicken was delicious and very homey. I kept trying to guess how the sauce was made; at one point, while explaining my feelings about the dish, I mentioned the words “Thanksgiving” and “turkey.” (I did not intend to insinuate that turkey was in the dish.)
Well, this did not go over well. The owner-host thought I suggested the turkey was in the “Aunt Paulette’s chicken with garlic and gratin” dish. He was so flabbergasted that he ran back to the kitchen and came out holding chicken still wrapped in its packaging to assure me that “NO TURKEY” was in the dish and that I must be “cuckoo for Cocoa Puffs” to suggest such.
The entire episode was hilarious since I recognized the significant mistranslation that led to a misunderstanding. However, I fear I may have traumatized the owner-host beyond repair. I am sure he will retell the story again and again from his perspective about the “WAKEY AMERICAN” that suggested “TURKEY” was in “Aunt Paulette’s chicken with garlic and gratin” dish, with poor Aunt Paulette “rolling over in your grave” with each telling.
For dessert, we shared the “Tarte Tatin” and the “Praline Tart,” which were both very homey. On the way out, the chef met us at the door to ensure we enjoyed our meal, and all was well.
La Tête de Lard (The Lard Head) is situated in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon.
For a starter, I ordered the “Roasted bone marrow and foie gras.” My wife ordered the “Ravioli with creamy basil pesto sauce.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
My wife ordered the “Chicken with Morel sauce” for her main course. I ordered the “Pike quenelle with crayfish sauce.” A large, delicious, and perfectly baked macaroni gratin accompanied the meal.
La Tête de LARD’s canut brain
For dessert, I ordered the “Cervelle de canut,” pictured above, which translates to “silk worker’s brain,” after the canuts, the silk workers of 19th-century Lyon. My wife ordered the “Praline Tart with Raspberry Sorbet.”
“Canut Brains” is a creamy cheese dip. The best similarity I can draw is between American French onion dip and tzatziki, minus the dill. It is made using fromage blanc, or “white cheese,” from northern France and southern Belgium. It has the consistency of yogurt and is mild, with a hint of tang.
Traditionally, the cheese is seasoned with mashed cloves of garlic, finely diced shallots, chopped parsley, chives, olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. Bouchons serve “Canut Brains” with bread. It is an unusual dessert, to say the least, and unique to Lyon. I think the shift workers ate it in the morning as hangover food. To me, this makes more sense. I found La Tête de Lard’s “Canut Brains” particularly delicious, making it a great accompaniment to a Super Bowl party.
L’Auberge des canuts (Canuts Inn) is situated in the 5th arrondissement of Lyon.
I ordered a trio of traditional Bouchon starters served as a set: “Lentils, pickled herring salad, and sausage” as a starter. My wife did order the “Onion soup.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
For the main course, I ordered the “Pike Fish Soufflé with Crustacean Sauce.” My wife chose the “Local Free-Range Chicken with Traditional Lyonnaise Tomato Sauce.” Typically, “Lyonnaise” refers to a dish cooked with onions, the star ingredient. This dish usually includes sautéed chicken with rich jus, tomato paste, vinegar, onions, and white wine. However, in this instance, mushrooms were the highlight of the dish.
L’Auberge des canuts’ local free-range chicken with traditonal lyonnaise tomato sauce
For dessert, we ordered the “Chocolate Tart with Caramel Sauce” and the dessert trio, which consisted of “Crème Brûlée, Rice Pudding, and Praline Tart.”
L’Auberge des canuts is in Old Lyon, next to the Saint John the Baptist Cathedral. This area is very touristy, so I don’t have high hopes. However, the service was exemplary, and the food was fine.
Favorite chicken with traditional Lyonnaise tomato sauce? L’Auberge des canuts
Le Poêlon d’Or (The Golden Pan) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon.
The Bouchon is a century-old establishment and a listed French heritage site. It was crowded with French locals. Some have come so often and for so long that they have a cast bronze plaque commemorating their table. The restaurant takes pride in being part of the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” group. Mentions are everywhere.
I ordered the “Artichoke Heart with Duck Foie Gras” as a starter. My wife chose the “Salad of the Day,” which featured gravlax salmon served inside an avocado half, accompanied by a small side salad with vinaigrette. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
Le Vivarais’ Zephyr of glazed tomato, pine nuts, and hazelnuts
For the main course, my wife chose the “Chicken Supreme with Morel Mushroom Cream Sauce and Roasted Potatoes.” I opted for the “Traditional Lyonnaise Pike Quenelle Gratin,” which came with a choice of sauce: Mushroom Béchamel or Crayfish Sauce. Naturally, I selected the crayfish sauce, also known as Nantua sauce.
The chicken was perfectly cooked, and the sauce met all expectations. The pike quenelle arrived “swimming in Nantua sauce,” which was expertly prepared. Having made Nantua sauce many times, I can appreciate the ingredients and the time needed to achieve a proper concentration of crayfish umami.* We were told that Chef Mickaël Lorini has prepared pike quenelles for 15 years.
We tried new dessert ideas: “French Toast with Raisins and Rum Crème Anglaise” and the “Colonel Cup,” featuring Lemon Sorbet Vodka. I had never tried these desserts before, so it was something new. If I had a do-over, I would order the “Floating Island with Pink Pralines,” which seemed to be every French person’s favorite.
Favorite Nantua sauce? Le Poêlon d’Or.
NOTE: The intense flavor of the Nantua sauce may not be for all.
Café du Jura is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon.
I ordered the “Herring Salad,” which was served with mixed salad, organic eggs, and marinated smoked herring fillets as a starter. My wife ordered the “Traditional Lyonnaise Salad,” which was served with curly lettuce, organic poached egg, croutons, and bacon. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
For the main course, I ordered the “Homemade Pike Quenelle with Lobster Sauce and Basmati Rice.” My wife ordered the “Creamy Bresse chicken with morels, basmati rice.” This was the first time I found “de volaille Bresse,” or Bresse chicken, pictured below. It comes from Bresse, France, and is the most expensive chicken in the world.
Café du Jura Bresse chicken
The chicken served was well-cooked, which suited my wife. By this, I mean I believe the chicken was cooked to 165°F (74°C) and rested, a restaurant standard for safe minimum internal temperature. I prefer my chicken cooked at 155°F (64°C) and then rested, which results in a juicy chicken breast. Ergo, it is slightly undercooked and not recommended. For dessert, we shared the Chartreuse ice cream.
Café du Jura was a fine Bouchon. Like all the Bouchons, it takes pride in its heritage and place in Lyon’s world-class food scene. We went on a Saturday for lunch, so it was packed. They had to turn people away, emphasizing the importance of securing a reservation in advance. The chef made the rounds, and we met him.
Le Vivarais is situated in Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement.
My wife ordered the “Zephyr” of glazed tomato, pine nuts, and hazelnuts for her starter. I ordered the “Artichoke Bottom and Homemade Smoked Foie Gras.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
Le Vivarais’ Zephyr of glazed tomato, pine nuts, and hazelnuts
For her main course, my wife ordered the “Tournedos of Scorpion Fish, Basil Cream.” I ordered the “Pike-perch fish quenelle, Nantua sauce (Lyon specialty), risotto, and mushrooms.” I do describe the quenelle? Words escape me.
It was light and fluffy. The sauce was perfectly executed and balanced with the Morels. The Aborino rice added a soft, creamy texture, enhancing the entire dish. The dish was decent, a gastronomic expression of a quenelle. It was neither too light nor too heavy; it was perfectly balanced. I couldn’t stop eating it all. I used bread to mop the bowl clean (“fare la scarpetta”) to show appreciation for the dish and the chef’s cooking. For dessert, we shared the “Lemon Cheesecake” and the “Chocolate Mousse Cake.” Both were lovely.
Le Vivarais is a Bouchon on steroids. It is more akin to a MICHELIN Guide gastronomic restaurant. After all, the chef is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF ). This is not just my opinion; it was the opinion of all the staff at the various Bouchons Lyonnaise association Bouchons I visited. There are white tablecloths; silverware settings are exchanged between courses, and the food plating and presentation let you know a top chef is behind it all. Not to mention, they have a beautiful selection of desserts displayed in a way that whets the appetite. I would return to try more of the menu.
Bouchon Palais Grillet is situated in the Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement.
Bouchon Palais Grillet onion soup
For my starter, I ordered the “St Marseillan salad, cheese wrapped in filo dough.” My wife ordered the “Lyonnaise salad.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
For her main course, my wife ordered the “Onion soup.” I ordered the “Pike quenelle with crab sauce.” We shared the “Apple praline tart” for dessert.
Les Fines Gueules is situated in Lyon’s 5th arrondissement.
Les Fines Gueules is a charming Bouchon located in the Vieux Lyon, the oldest part of Lyon, which is very touristy. I was a bit worried. But once we arrived, my fears were quickly assuaged. It is a classic Bouchon with raw stone walls and a down-home feel. There are upstairs and downstairs rooms. We asked to sit in the downstairs room, and the staff was accommodating.
The menu is extensive. For my starter, I ordered “Traditional Burgundy Snails with Garlic and Parsley Butter.” My wife chose the “Poached Eggs with Red Wine Reduction, Spring Onions, and Thinly Sliced Bacon.” In French, the dish is known as “Oeufs en Meurette” (Eggs in Red Wine Sauce) and is commonly found on most Lyon Bouchon menus, even though it originates from Burgundy. The dish consists of poached eggs served with a meurette sauce, made from Burgundy red wine, bacon, onions, and shallots browned in butter, accompanied by toasted garlic bread. But I am sure in Lyon they use Rhone wine. Les Fines Gueules’ “Eggs in red wine sauce” was elegantly served. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
Les Fines Gueules’ “Eggs in red wine sauce”
My wife ordered the “Fish of the Day with sauce vierge for her main course,” which was prepared more like a ratatouille. I ordered the “Pike quenelle with homemade crab [and lobster] bisque.” The quenelle was larger than most. It was served light and fluffy, piping hot, and swimming in sauce. This was my first experience with a “crab and lobster sauce.” Overall, the entire dish was excellent and well worth the visit.
For dessert, we ordered the “Grand Marnier liquor ice cream parfait,” since I had never had it before, and the “Praline tart.” Having made many tart shells, I can say that this tart was excellent without equivocation. I believe that the pie was first blind baked, and then the praline was added and baked again to create a rich, deep tart with lots of texture.
Les Fines Gueules was a quintessential Bouchon experience, nestled in the heart of the tourist area. Who woulda thunk it? I would return without hesitation.
Favorite eggs in red wine sauce? Les Fines Gueules.
Le Bouchon Sully is situated in the Lyon’s 6th arrondissement.
My wife ordered the “Lentil Soup,” served in the Paul Bocuse style—thick, creamy, and rich for her starter. I ordered the “Warm Asparagus, Mimosa Egg Vinaigrette, and Parmesan Crumble,” pictured below. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
Le Sully’s Warm asparagus, mimosa egg vinaigrette, parmesan crumble
For her main course, my wife ordered the “Roasted Veal Breast and Loin, Spring Vegetables, and Braising Juice.” I ordered the “Pike quenelle, Nantua sauce, and rice.”
We shared the “Floating Island” (poached meringue) with pralines from Saint Genix for dessert.
La Meuniere (The Miller) is in Lyon’s 1st arrondissement.
We arrived early and were able to select a table for two in front of the house. The Bouchon has a fascinating memorabilia collection on the wall, such as “The Pig of St. Anthony.”
I ordered the “Salad Lyonnaise” as a starter, which was typical of all the “Salade Lyonnaise” I have tried at a Bouchon. My wife chose the “White Asparagus with mayonnaise,” which was well prepared. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
La Meuniere Lyonnaise salad
My wife ordered the “Ravioli with cheese and herbs” for her main course, and I ordered the “Pike quenelle, crayfish cream, pilaf rice.” The ravioli was rich, creamy, and tasty. The pike quenelle I received was dense like a pound cake. I have never been served a pike quenelle this way. The Nanuta sauce was very concentrated and rich. We ordered and shared the “Crème caramel” for dessert.
On a side note, La Meuniere offers one of the best Mâchons in Lyon every morning from Tuesday to Saturday at 9:00 AM. Sharp (reservations recommended).
What is a Mâchon? You ask? Initially, a Mâchon was a hearty, communal meal enjoyed by Lyon’s loom workers, known as the Canuts, before they started work. “Mâchon” comes from the French verb “to chew,” since it typically consists of simple, easy-to-prepare, and easy-to-eat foods. In 1964, the “Philanthropic Society for the Defense and Encouragement of the mâchon tradition” was formed to preserve the ritual (see history of the Francs-Mâcho association).
Today, a Mâchon is akin to a social event around a shared meal. There are two Francs-Mâchons or clubs: one in Lyon and the other in Paris. Each publishes a guide and a list of restaurateurs certified by the “Confraternity of Francs-mâchons.” Here you can find the “Chewing in Lyon” guide. Here, you can find the “Chewing in Paris” guide.
After visiting over 17 Bouchons in Lyon, I lacked the energy to attend a Lyon Mâchon. However, I plan to do so in Paris next year.
Le Bouchon des Artistes is located in Lyon’s 3rd arrondissement, a few blocks from “The Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.” It offers an authentic Bouchon menu with twists.
As a starter, we shared the “Caesar Salad,” which included Viennese-style chicken fillets, Parmesan shavings, and candied cherry tomatoes. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
Le Bouchon des Artistes “Caesar Salad” was a unique find. It was, in fact, the first time we had found a Caesar salad on a Bouchons Lyonnaise Association member’s menu. The Caesar salad (picture below) was excellent. It was the best Caesar salad we had found since we arrived in France nine months ago. It had lots of lettuce, and the chicken was perfectly prepared. But do not expect a typical garlic anchovy dressing. The dressing was a creamy mayonnaise-based vinaigrette. It was huge. It can feed four people as a starter and two as a main course.
Le Bouchon des Artistes’ Caesar salad with Viennese-style chicken fillets, Parmesan shavings, and candied cherry tomatoes, Caesar dressing
For my main course, I ordered the “Puffed pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, white and wild rice.” My wife ordered the “Grilled scallops, creamy risotto with green asparagus and wild garlic vegetables.” This is the first time we have found grilled scallops on the menu, a twist on the classic French dish “Coquille Saint-Jacques,” a scallop served in a shell with a creamy sauce, tarragon, and melted Gruyère cheese.
We shared the “Creamy dark chocolate, strawberry caramel ganache, and streusel biscuit for dessert.” It was beautifully plated and yummy.
Le Bouchon des Artistes’ is a small and fun Bouchon. It’s one room that holds maybe 50 people. The staff is welcoming and friendly. It’s filled with locals on lunch break and has a great vibe. The menu is traditional with a twist and many interesting options. The desserts are fun and delicious, which is not always true with Bouhcons. We would return anytime.
Le Bouchon Sully is situated in the Lyon’s 6th arrondissement.
First attempt
I made a reservation for April 30th at L’antr’O Potes only to find that the pike quenelle was not on the menu. I could hardly believe it. An association Bouchon without a quenelle on the menu? I spoke to the chef, who explained that tomorrow is May Day in France (Labour Day or Fête du Travail), a major public holiday and the only one on which all but non-essential workers (and those in specific sectors such as the food and restaurant industry) have the day off. So, the Bouchon will be closed for four days. From a food preservation standpoint, preparing pike quenelles before a holiday closing does not make sense because “dough” only lasts four days. However, it made perfect sense to me.
The chef apologized and told me he would have prepared quenelles if I had called ahead. Now I know: if you plan to go to a Bouchon in Lyon before a public holiday and expect to order the pike quenelle, call ahead to ensure it will be part of the menu that day. I rescheduled the reservation for next Tuesday. So, to work toward completing the project before I leave Lyon on May 18th, I have to visit four association Bouchons next week and eat four quenelles. Ugh. But I will soldier on, and I may need to buy bigger pants.
Second attempt
It is a week later—the week of May 8th—and I went to L’antr’O Potes yesterday. The Bouchon has a small front room with “bar tables,” a back room, and a patio. Because it was a holiday week, May 8th was Victory in Europe Day (VE Day), when General de Gaulle officially announced the end of the Second World War to the French public on May 8th, 1945. There were not a lot of customers. We sat in the front room, just what seemed to be friends of Chef Julien Le Guillou. Because the Bouchon was not busy, Chef Julien was out front most of the time drinking wine and talking to his cronies.
So, we interacted extensively with Chef Julien. L’antr’O Potes exemplified what the quintessential Bouchon Lyonnais should be or used to be. The restaurant has a counter, picturesque decor, close-set tables, red and white checked tablecloths (in this case, placemats), and a friendly atmosphere with a colorful boss—in this case, Chef Julien. He even has a sign hanging above the bar that reads, “You do not need to be crazy to work here, but it helps!”
My wife ordered the “Tomato salad with Fromage blanc, basil, and truffles” for a starter, and I ordered the “Crispy St. Marcelin cheese, honey, and rosemary,” pictured below. The tomato salad was refreshing, and the St. Marcelin cheese was wrapped and fried in filo dough and served with a simple green salad and vinaigrette dressing. When opened, it oozed cheese. It beats fried mozzarella sticks. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
L’antr’O-Potes’ “Crispy St. Marcelin cheese, honey, and rosemary”
In addition, Chef Julien gave us a slice of his “Lyon sausage in brioche” (Saucisson Brioché Lyonnais) to try. He has a baker friend who makes the brioche, which he combines with his sausage from his butcher, forms, and bakes. The slice of brioche with sausage in the middle was cut into four equal pieces before serving with a toothpick in each sausage section so we could grab a perfect single bite of sausage and brioche. This was an excellent way to serve this appetizer.
My wife ordered “Toulouse Sausage with wild garlic, potato puree, and sautéed vegetables” for her main. I ordered the “Pike quenelle, Nantua sauce.” Both were excellent.
For dessert, we ordered “Strawberries in syrup with pink pralines and Chantilly Cream” and “Half-cooked chocolate” (Molten chocolate cake with caramel sauce and Chantilly cream).
L’antr’O Potes was a lot of fun—no doubt because we spent more time with the Chef than at any other Bouchon. That said, L’antr’O Potes is a Bouchon I would return to again and again if I lived in Lyon. Not only does it offer a traditional Bouchon menu, but it also has a lot of other menu items, such as “Homemade fish fritters with spicy sauce,” “XXL roasted marrow bone lengthwise, country bread,” “Bowl of Fries,” and a host of “Dishes of the moment,” to pique interest.
Bistrot du Marché Chez Nénette (Market Bistro at Nénette) is not in Lyon but in the village of Les Chères, which is approximately 22km from Lyon—44 euros by Uber.
For my starter, I ordered the “Roasted bone marrow with Grenada sea salt.” My wife ordered “Meme’s Green Salad.”
My wife ordered the “Smoked Sausage with full-bodied beef jus served with roasted baby potatoes,” see below for her main course. I ordered the “Artisanal pike quenelle of the sun, Nantua sauce.” We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
Bistrot du Marché Chez Nénette “Smoked Sausage with full-bodied beef jus served with roasted baby potatoes”
We ordered and shared “Chocolate mouse with raspberry sauce and Chantilly cream” for dessert.
Address : 10 Place de l’Église, 69380 Les Chères Phone : 04 78 03 37 40 Website: https://bistrot-du-marche.fr/?page_id=34&lang=en
Les Culottes Longues
Les Culottes Longues (Long Panties) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon near Place Bellecour. Just when I thought I had seen it all and it could not get any better, it did.
True to form, my wife and I arrived 10 minutes early so I could scout for seating. The Bouchon has a downstairs and an upstairs room. I chose to sit at the table next to the kitchen. We found ourselves at the crossroads of all the action.
I could see right into the kitchen, talk to Chef David Cano and his junior Chef, and watch them prepare meals at a record pace in the small galley kitchen. My seat was essentially a “chef’s table.” When time allowed, Chef David stood watch over the dining room and moved back and forth from his post, checking on guests. His presence commanded the room.
But it all makes sense. Les Culottes Longues is Chef David Cano’s home. He grew up there. He started at the Bouchon over twenty years ago as a commis, junior chef, worked his way up to the chef, and bought Les Culottes Longues in 2005. Les Culottes Longues is Chef David; Chef David is Les Culottes Longues. You can’t separate the two.
We started with puff pastry with escargot and frog legs and an off-menu mixed hors d’oeuvres platter, including potato salad with ham and classic French cornichon pickles, warm lentil salad with sausage, beef gravlax atop a mango salad, a cheese tart with tomato confit, and a Seafood en Croute, a cooked seafood terrine seasoned with a mayonnaise-based sauce. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
The seafood terrine was an unexpected discovery (see image below). A Bouchon menu typically features Pâté en Croûte, a cooked meat terrine. Pâté en Croûte is a traditional French charcuterie dish made from a meat-based forcemeat encased in pastry dough and baked. Created during the Middle Ages to preserve meat, Pâté en Croûte fell out of fashion for a time.
Les Culottes Longues’ Seafood en Croute
However, in 2019, a group of chefs from Lyon formed the “Brotherhood of Pâté Croûte” (La Confrérie du Pâté-Croûte) to review and preserve this French culinary tradition. Today, there is “The Pâté-Croûte World Championship,” and they have published a book, “The Book of the Brotherhood of Pâté-Croûte.”
Preparing Pâté Croûte properly can take up to four days (which I can confirm from my own experience, as I have successfully made it on several occasions). Many French people start a meal with Pâté Croûte, especially if they select fish as a main course (Surf and Turf). Chef David also offers Pâté en croûte au foie gras, which I wish I had also tried.
For her main course, my wife ordered the Mesulin salad with roasted red pepper, cantal cheese, and Iberian ham (pictured below). I ordered the quenelle, fish cake, and lobster sauce, followed by the Entrecôte beef with garlic mashed potatoes.
Entrecôte beef is a premium cut commonly used for steaks and roasts. Traditionally, entrecôte is a boneless cut from the rib area, known by various names, including rib, ribeye, Scotch fillet, club steak, or Delmonico. Chef David ages his entrecôte beef in-house for four months, showcases it in the kitchen window, and cuts it to order. Though I was already full, I couldn’t resist ordering it.
We shared the Lemon tart, strawberry tiramisu, and espresso for dessert.
Finally, we finished with two shots of the in-house digestive made from Pink Praline syrup and liquor, with several floating pistachios in it, compliments of the chef.
Address: 42 Rue Sala, 69002 Lyon Phone: 04 78 37 13 00 Menu: les-culottes-longues.com
Le Comptoir de Léa
Le Comptoir de Léa (BOUCHON LÉA) is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon.
For my starter, I ordered the grilled bone marrow. My wife ordered the brioche sausage with port sauce. We also ordered a pot of Côtes du Rhône wine to accompany our meal.
My wife ordered Chicken fricassee with tarragon vinegar, mushrooms, and homemade mashed potatoes for her main course. I ordered the homemade pike quenelle, lobster sauce, and pilaf rice.
Le Comptoir de Léa Chartreuse parfait
We ordered the Chartreuse parfait, pictured above, the strawberry crisp, and mint syrup for dessert.
Chartreuse is a product of the “Carthusian Fathers.” According to the website, Chartreuse was created in 1840. The “Liqueur de Santé” is the first liqueur made from the original recipe of the Elixir Végétal de la Grande Chartreuse. It was so popular that Father Garnier, attorney and responsible for the liqueurs at the time, later officially named it ‘Chartreuse Verte’, and registered the “Chartreuse” mark in 1852. It is still produced and manufactured today by the Chartreux Fathers in their Aiguenoire distillery in Entre-Deux-Guiers (Isère – France)… A Chartreuse green color, a powerful herbaceous, peppery nose. A fresh palate with minty notes, pine sap, and citrus fruits. Bittersweet tea at the end of the mouth prolongs the tasting.” This drink serves as an excellent digestif.
Refer to my post titled ” Best Quenelles in Lyon” to see the pike quenelles from each Les Bouchons Lyonnais association Bouchon I visited.
* (1) Daniel & Denise have three locations in Lyon. Since all the Daniel & Denise bouchons are overseen by the same chef and boast the same recipes and menus, I went to the Daniel and Denise Croix Rousse. I did not go to the Daniel & Denise Créqui or the Daniel & Denise Saint-Jean; (2) Café Comptoir Abel has a little brother called Le Bistrot d’Abel with essentially the same menu and recipes. So, I went only to Café Comptoir Abel.
This is first-hand advice from me, Bonvivant365. I dined at 17 Lyon bouchons over six weeks. Below is everything I think you need to know.
What is a Lyon bouchon?
Bouchons, a culinary tradition in the city of Lyon, are renowned for their traditional dishes. It is believed that Bouchons began with Lyonnaise Mothers (Mères Lyonnaises), who opened their homes to serve meals to the city’s workers.
Bouchon menu structure
A menu is called a “Map,” at least on most Bouchon websites.
In France, a typical Bouchon meal consists of three courses: entrée (starter), plat principal (main course), fromage (cheese course), and/or dessert. Bouchons offer a variety of set menus based on these three courses.
A specific menu is typically structured so you can select a Starter + Main Course + Dessert, OR Starter + Main Course, OR Main Course + Dessert.
The “Menu du Jour” (“Menu of the Day”) provides the best value but is the most limited in choice and supply. It is generally limited to lunch Monday through Friday, but is sometimes offered on Saturday. The “Menu du Jour” is a small menu of suggestions prepared according to the chef’s mood. While a Bouchon’s website may mention offering a “Menu du Jour” and its price, it does not specify the menu items for that day. The menu is typically presented on a “chalkboard ” at the restaurant.
Don’t hesitate to ask if you don’t see a “Menu du Jour” or if the Bouchon staff doesn’t provide one. There was a time when the staff didn’t offer it, and we didn’t think to ask. As a result, we ended up ordering without it, only later to hear the table next to us ordering from the special menu. When we asked the staff why we weren’t offered the “Menu du Jour,” they responded, “You did not ask.” It was a valuable lesson learned.
When a Bouchon runs out of the “Menu du Jour” main course, it will “86” or remove the entire menu, meaning you can no longer order it; the “Menu du Jour” becomes unavailable for that day.
This happened to a guy who sat next to us at a Bouchon last Monday. He arrived late and tried to order the “Menu du Jour.” However, the person next to him had just ordered it and had taken the last portion. He was informed that it was no longer available when he inquired about it. He seemed shocked and thought the Bouchon staff was trying to trick him into ordering the more expensive menu.
I assured him this was not the case and explained that it is common for a Bouchon to run out of the “Menu du Jour,” and in fact, planned. The Bouchon’s goal is to make enough of the main course, pork, to fulfill a certain level of requests, so they have none left over. After all, by definition, the “menu du Jour” will be different tomorrow- at least that is the goal. So, if you count on ordering the “Daily Menu,” get to the Bouchon early.
In addition to the set menus, all the Bouchons I have visited offer à la carte options.
Bouchon menu items
If you go to enough Bouchons, you will see many of the same menu items prepared and presented differently. Here is a brief list of the typical menu items you will find:
Starters: Salade Lyonnaise, Chef’s Terrine, Poached Eggs in Red Wine Sauce, Herring Salad with Potatoes, Hot Sausage, Warm Lentils, Bone Marrow, Saint-Marcellin Cheese…
Main courses: Pike Quenelle, Andouillette, Tripe of some kind, Chicken of some sort, Beef of some sort, port or veal of some sort…
Desserts: Pink Praline Tart, Crème Caramel, Mousse au chocolate, Baba au Rhum, Baba au Rhum…
Bouchon water
When asked, you don’t need to order sparkling or still water unless you want to. Most people, including the French, ask for tap water (Eau du robinet). Just say “tap water, please.” This is a well-understood English phrase.
Bouchon wines
Regarding wine, the typical accompaniment is a “Lyonnais pot” of either Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône. A Lyonnais pot is a bottle with a very thick bottom and a capacity of exactly 46 centiliters. Every Bouchon we visited also offered a wine menu.
Bouchon cost
The meals below cost €100 to €150, depending on how far I deviated from the set menu and whether I ordered a “Lyonnais pot” or a bottle of wine. A perfect meal for two, including wine, costs an average of €60 to €80 per person. However, there is considerable variation, especially if you order à la carte and a bottle of wine. Every Bouchon lists its menus on its website. So, review the website and the menu before you visit.
Bouchon seating
A Bouchon is typically organized into several seating sections, depending on size. Every Bouchon has a counter section at the front of the Bouchon, which offers a vibrant atmosphere. A larger room on the same level often provides additional seating away from the bar. Some Bouchons have an upstairs room that they can utilize when busy, and outdoor seating available in nice weather. Regardless of where you sit, the tables in a Bouchon are generally positioned very close together.
I am very particular about where I sit, so I go the day before or arrive earlier to survey the Bouchon and request my seat. I like to sit in the “counter section” at the front of the house, as this is Bouchon’s emblematic room where the French sit if they can. Some locals visit so often that a custom-engraved brass name plaque defines their favorite table, like a church pew.
Anecdotally, I observed a queue regarding seat choice. Regulars receive priority, and their favorite tables are often reserved. Next, the Bouchon lets you select your seat in order of reservation. But this is not always the case. Sometimes it seems that ensuring you are first in the door is all that matters.
Finally … to be continued.
Bouchon reservations
Finally, plan and make a reservation. All but one of the Bouchons listed here have an online reservation system on their website, except for “Le Comptoir de Léa.” You need to call them to make a reservation. The person who answered the phone spoke French and English. Lunch Monday through Friday is generally not a problem. Dinner is much more challenging, and some Bouchons are closed on weekends.
Bouchon staff and service
First, the service at Bouchon can vary. Some staff members are friendly and helpful, while others may appear indifferent. This is typical in France, so try not to take it personally.
Second, “If you sit, they will come.” This means you should be patient and wait for the server to approach you in their own time. They are often busy and have their own pace. Again, don’t take it personally. Instead, sit back, enjoy the ambiance, and relax.
Finally, as discussed above, some bouchon staff speak English well; some will try, and others will not, nor will they try, and expect you to deal with them in French. If it is possible, ask for an English menu. Grunt “menu anglais.” Otherwise, use Google Translate on your phone to read the menu and point to what you want.
If you go to enough Bouchons and behave yourself, you might be presented with this award, which I call the Bouchon “Certificate of Appreciation.” Chef Julien Le Guillo from L’Antr’Opotes gave it to me.
It reads: “The restaurant L’Antr’Opotes – Bouchon Lyonnais attests that Mr. Bonvivant365 conducted himself valiantly during today’s meal and proved himself worthy of persevering in this reign. He will always be warmly welcomed in the Bouchon Lyonnais.”
I know it is probably for children. But I feel proud nonetheless (Ok, Ok-I am a complete idiot).
Bouchon Certificate of Appreciation
How can you identify an authentic Bouchon in Lyon?
I spent six weeks in Lyon identifying the top bouchons and enjoying lunch or dinner at each one. Visit my blog post to read about how I found them and what I thought:
Do you tip in Europe? To tip or not to tip, that is the question.
I have been traveling to Europe since 1990 and have struggled with this question for years. So, you are not alone.
In contrast to the United States, where tipping is expected and essential for the livelihood of many service workers, employees in the European hospitality sector earn a livable wage. As a result, tipping is not expected or necessary. Instead, it is considered a gesture of appreciation for exceptional service. Here’s what I have learned and what I do:
Cafes
We often stop at cafes for an espresso. When I pay in cash, we usually leave small change as a tip. For instance, if a coffee costs €1.50 and we pay with a €2 coin, I typically leave 50 cents as a tip.
However, if I pay the exact amount, there is no small change left over, but if I have some small coins in my pocket, I may leave those as a gratuity if the service was exceptional; otherwise, we do not leave anything. I’ve noticed that this practice is also common among the French and other Europeans.
If we spend more time at the table and have more food and drinks, I tend to round up the bill or leave a tip of 2 to 3 euros when the total is under 50 euros and the service is exceptional. However, based on my observations of other tables, 9 of 10 French or European customers do not leave a tip in these situations.
Cassual Restaurants
Last fall, my wife and I had the pleasure of meeting an older French couple who live in Paris. We observed how they appreciated exceptional service during several lunches by leaving a small tip. For instance, if the bill were 100 euros, they would leave a 5-euro tip as a token of their gratitude, essentially 5%. This is the tipping approach I have adopted since then. However, based on my observations while looking around at other tables as diners leave, 9 of 10 French or European patrons do not tip.
Taxis
Regarding taxi or Uber drivers, I generally do not tip for short rides unless the service was exceptional. For example, I might tip if the driver gets out to open the doors, helps with grocery bags, or is engaging and provides valuable advice during the ride.
Long Car transfers
I typically tip around 5 percent of long transfers if the driver is friendly and manages the bags well in and out of the car. If we have a lot of luggage and the driver helps carry it in and out of our hotel or Airbnb, I increase the tip to 10 percent.
Hotel staff
Regarding hotel staff, I tip the doorman 1 euro per bag for assistance, with a maximum tip of 5 euros, unless there is a good reason to tip more. For extra helpful staff or the concierge, I tend to tip a few euros or more, depending on the level of assistance.
Tour guides
Regarding tipping tour guides, I generally tip between 5 percent and 10 percent of the total tour price. If the guide is friendly and provides a good experience for small group tours, I tip around 5 percent, assuming that others will also contribute. However, for private tours, I tend to tip 10 percent.
In summary
Adjusting to tipping practices in Europe can be challenging and takes some getting used to.
It does not help that staff in tourist areas often expect tips because American tourists have inadvertently trained them to expect them. So you might feel some external or internal pressure. Avoid the false quilt.
As mentioned earlier, tipping practices vary depending on the situation. Small coins or a tip of 5 percent are generally considered adequate, while a tip of 10 percent is seen as generous.
Tipping is not the norm in Europe. Therefore, don’t feel pressured—externally or internally—to leave a tip. It should only be used as a gesture of appreciation for exceptional service. If the service is indifferent or poor, I would not tip.
