Best Restaurants in Bordeaux

My wife and I relocated to Bordeaux two weeks ago to settle in and prepare for wine school, which we’ll be attending for the next five months (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). True to my “bonvivant” nature, I identified and tried the best restaurants in Bordeaux, as well as brasseries, bistros, and casual dining places.

Bordeaux's bronze turtles in the Place de la Victoire, Bordeaux, France
Bordeaux’s bronze turtles in the Place de la Victoire, Bordeaux, France

Unlike many food, travel, and review sites that compile opinions from across the internet without ever visiting the locations themselves, my recommendations are based on my own experiences and perspective.

In addition, my wife and I have created our own rating system (see my post, “5-point Restaurant Rating System“) based on the following criteria: ambiance and vibe, wine by the glass options, presentation and plating, yummy quotient, and dessert quality that I use to rate the restaurants, brasseries, and bistros discussed below.

Ok. Let’s go!

Restaurants vs Brasseries vs Bistros

Both brasseries and bistros offer traditional French cuisine, but they differ in atmosphere. Brasseries usually have a larger, more elegant, and open-air setting, a good example is the iconic Le Grand Colbert in Paris. In contrast, bistros tend to be smaller, cozier, and more informal, resembling a neighborhood favorite.

Restaurants, however, are different. While brasseries and bistros specialize in traditional French dishes, establishments labeled as “restaurants” in France feature a much more diverse array of cuisines.

MICHELIN Bib Gourmand Restaurants in Bordeaux, France

If you’ve visited my blog before, you know I’m a fan of MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants. They generally offer a “gastronomic” three-course meal at a fair price that tastes good.

So, the first thing I did when we arrived in Bordeaux was look for MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants. There are four MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Bordeaux itself and one located across the river in the village of Saint-André-de-Cubzac.

We visited each in Bordeaux proper. Below is what we thought of each.

Madame B Restaurant

Madame B restaurant, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, is situated within the Burdigala Hotel. It features a chic brasserie style with a retro flair, accompanied by excellent service. I enjoyed the atmosphere and vibe.

The restaurant provides a selection of classic aperitifs, including champagne and white sparkling wines from the “Crémant de Bordeaux” wine appellation. My wife chose the champagne. Additionally, Madame B offers a wine-by-the-glass (WBT) program featuring a variety of red and white wines at both affordable and mid-range price points.

Madame B's "Eggs with mushrooms and parsley cream," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Eggs with mushrooms and parsley cream,” Bordeaux, France

For lunch or dinner, guests can choose between 2 to 5 “comfort dishes.” For my starter, I ordered the “Eggs with mushrooms and parsley cream,” while my wife chose the “Cauliflower salad with fennel and vegetable tarama.” Both dishes were well presented and beautifully plated; however, they lacked seasoning, particularly my wife’s dish, which subtracted from their “yummy quotient.”

Madame B's "Cauliflower salad with fennel and vegetable tarama," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Cauliflower salad with fennel and vegetable tarama,” Bordeaux, France

My wife chose the “M’hamsa semolina with herbs, corn, and piquillos” for her main course.

Madame B's “M’hamsa semolina with herbs, corn, and piquillos, Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “M’hamsa semolina with herbs, corn, and piquillos, Bordeaux, France

I ordered the “Duck served with white cabbage, lemon, mustard, and a rich sauce.” My wife’s dish was beautifully presented, but it lacked seasoning, which I felt might have been a matter of personal taste. On the other hand, the duck was perfectly prepared and quite delicious.

Madame B's "Duck served with white cabbage, lemon, mustard, and a rich sauce," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Duck served with white cabbage, lemon, mustard, and a rich sauce,” Bordeaux, France

For dessert, we shared the “Vacherin with citrus, tonic, and juniper berry emulsion” and the “Chocolate dessert with peanut, ginger, and vanilla ice cream,” as shown in the picture below. Madame B has its own pastry chef, and it really shows. The desserts were the best we have experienced at any MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in France.

Madame B's chocolate dessert with peanut, ginger, and vanilla ice cream, Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s chocolate dessert with peanut, ginger, and vanilla ice cream, Bordeaux, France

Madam B’s second visit

Update: Last night we took a friend to Madame B. The menu, of course, had changed. Once again, the ambiance and vibe were lovely, the wine-by-the-glass options were gracious, including sweet wines; the food was thoughtfully presented and plated; I updated the “yummy quotient” to 4; and the dessert was impeccable. All the MICHELIN Bib Gourmands in Bordeaux are worth trying, but a second visit confirmed that Madame B is the best MICHELIN Bib Gourmand in Bordeaux. Here are a few of the dishes we had:

Madame B's "Curry Mussels," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Curry Mussels,” Bordeaux, France
Madame B's "Warm lentils, quail egg, sour cream," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Warm lentils, quail egg, sour cream,” Bordeaux, France
Madame B's "Catch of the day," celeriac, seaweed sauce, Bordeaux
Madame B’s “Catch of the day,” celeriac, seaweed sauce, Bordeaux
Madame B's "Duck, white cabbage, lemon, mustard, strong jus," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Duck, white cabbage, lemon, mustard, strong jus,” Bordeaux, France
Madame B's "Vacherin, citrus, tonic, juniper emulsion," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Vacherin, citrus, tonic, juniper emulsion,” Bordeaux, France
Madame B's "Almond milk rice pudding, honey, citrus zest," Bordeaux, France
Madame B’s “Almond milk rice pudding, honey, citrus zest,” Bordeaux, France

Ambiance, vibe, service: 5
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 4
Dessert quality: 5

Bonvivant365 score: 23

Restaurant & Bar Madame B
Address: 115 Rue Georges Bonnac, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 (0) 5 56 90 70 70
https://www.restaurantmadameb.com/en/

Kedem Restaurant

Kedem, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, features Near and Middle Eastern cuisine, as well as homemade breads (Kaak and Kubane Yehen). All menus begin with a mezze set to share, accompanied by its selection of breads, followed by a main course, with or without dessert.

Kedem's traditional specialty breads made on site, Bordeaux, France
Kedem’s traditional specialty breads are made on site, Bordeaux, France

Meze with one ‘z’ is more commonly used in Greece, while ‘mezze’ is used in Turkey; however, many people from the Mediterranean region use the words interchangeably. We ordered a starter, main course, and desserts to try everything.

Kadem's mezza, Bordeaux, France
Kadem’s mezza, Bordeaux, France

I ordered the “Babour: Beef kefta with herbs, burnt tomato stew, chickpeas, herb tahini, onion condiment, and sumac.”

Kedem's "Babour," beef kefta with herbs, burnt tomato stew, chickpeas, herb tahini, onion condiment, and sumac, Bordeaux, France
Kedem’s “Babour,” beef kefta with herbs, burnt tomato stew, chickpeas, herb tahini, onion condiment, and sumac, Bordeaux, France

My wife ordered the “Daguim: Marinated and semi-cooked albacore tuna, zucchini stuffed with freekeh and herbs, and almond cream.”

For dessert, we ordered and shared the “Basboussa: Semolina cake soaked in orange blossom and lemon, peach poached in rose syrup, strawberry sorbet, cardamom, and hibiscus,” (pictured below) and the “Knafé: Kadaif cake, stringy cheese, hibiscus syrup, whipped cream with halva.”

Kedem's "Basboussa," semolina cake soaked in orange blossom and lemon, peach poached in rose syrup, strawberry sorbet, cardamom, and hibiscus, Bordeaux, France
Kedem’s “Basboussa,” semolina cake soaked in orange blossom and lemon, peach poached in rose syrup, strawberry sorbet, cardamom, and hibiscus, Bordeaux, France

Kedem’s plating is simple, but the dishes are complex with layers of flavors.

Ambiance, vibe, service: 4
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 4
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365 score: 17

Restaurant Kedem
Address: 16 Rue Jean Burguet, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 (0) 5 57 80 04 30
https://kedem.fr/

Racines

Racines, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, is a small, gastronomic restaurant located down the street from Madame B. It appears to have a following, as evidenced by the greeting given to the arriving patrons.

The menu is small and changes approximately every month. We each ordered a starter, main course, and dessert to try everything. There are two starter options, two main-course options, and two dessert options. So we ordered one of each to try all possibilities.

The menu is limited but updates approximately every month. There are two options for starters, two for main courses, and two for desserts. We decided to order a starter, a main course, and a dessert for each of us to sample everything on offer.

Starters: “Glazed carrot” with miso and peanut, served with satay sauce and passion fruit (pictured below), and “Marinated Squid,” served with shellfish bouillon, grapefruit, and fresh herbs.

Raciens' "Glazed carrot," with miso and peanut served with satay sauce and passion fruit, Bordeaux, France
Raciens’ “Glazed carrot,” with miso and peanut served with satay sauce and passion fruit, Bordeaux, France

For her main course, my wife selected “The Pollock,” served with fennel and mirabelle plum, pictured below.

Racine's "The Pollock," served with fennel and mirabelle plum, Bordeaux, France
Racine’s “The Pollock,” served with fennel and mirabelle plum, Bordeaux, France

I select the “Chicken supreme with mushrooms and seaweed,” served with leeks and roast chicken jus, pictured below. Both were excellent.

Racine's "Chicken supreme, mushrooms, seaweed," served with leeks and roast chicken jus, Bordeaux, France
Racine’s “Chicken supreme, mushrooms, seaweed,” served with leeks and roast chicken jus, Bordeaux, France

Desserts: “Rhubarb from the Maison Vermes,” served with basil and raspberry, and “The Chocolate by Nicolas Berger,” served with dark berries and shiso, are pictured below.

Raciens' "The Chocolate by Nicolas Berger," served with dark berries and shiso, Bordeaux, France
Raciens’ “The Chocolate by Nicolas Berger,” served with dark berries and shiso, Bordeaux, France

Ambiance, vibe, service: 3
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365 score: 18

Racines
Address: 59 Rue Georges Bonnac, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 (0) 5 56 98 43 08
https://racines-bordeaux.com/

Panaille

Panaille, like Kedem, is an authentic MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in the sense of value for money. For lunch, an entrée, main course, and dessert are just 23 euros.

Panaille’s ambiance and vibe are those of a lively coffee shop, enhanced by the background music. I felt inclined to pull out my laptop and start writing my blog. The service is friendly, though somewhat hurried, as the staff is quite busy. The only downside to the service was that they didn’t clear away the empty wine glasses or water bottle during our meal, leaving the table cluttered.

Panaille boasts a good wine-by-the-glass menu. They feature four red wines, five white wines, one rosé, a Champagne, and a sparkling wine sourced from Graves, Sud-Ouest (South West), Languedoc, Bourgogne, Entre-deux-Mers, and Champagne regions. As an aperitif, my wife ordered the Couvreur Philippart Champagne Premier Cru, Extra Brute, and for her meal, she ordered the Domaine du Salut, Bordeaux Graves Red 2023.

Panaille's "Leeks and Quinoa with Ravigote Sauce," Bordeaux, France
Panaille’s “Leeks and Quinoa with Ravigote Sauce,” Bordeaux, France

For her starter, my wife ordered the “Leeks and Quinoa with Ravigote Sauce,” pictured above. I chose the “Fried Chicken with Romaine Salad tossed in Sriracha Mayo,” pictured below.

Panaille's "Fried Chicken with Romaine Salad tossed in Sriracha Mayo," Bordeaux, France
Panaille’s “Fried Chicken with Romaine Salad tossed in Sriracha Mayo,” Bordeaux, France

For her main course, my wife chose the “Pig Cheek served in Tom Kha Kai,” a spicy, sour soup made with coconut milk, white beans, and oyster mushrooms. I ordered the “Plat Du Jour” (French for “Plate of the Day”), featuring slow-cooked lamb served with quinoa and root vegetables, as shown in the picture below.

Panaille's "Lamb confit" serves with quinoa and root vegetables, Bordeaux, France
Panaille’s “Lamb confit” serves with quinoa and root vegetables, Bordeaux, France

In terms of plating and presentation, all the dishes were served in a “bistro” style, in bowls. The lamb was exciting; it looked as if it were lying in a wooded meadow, with leaves fallen around it—an evocative autumnal dish.

In terms of “yummy quotient,” all the dishes were yummy—particularly the starters. The “Pig Cheek served in Tom Kha Kai” was also yummy once we got past the “culinary foam” that had a brownish tint.

For dessert, we shared “Manon’s Cheese Plate,” a selection of Manon’s cheeses, and “Dessert du Jour,” a cheesecake. The cheese was pleasant, and Panaille’s cheesecake interpretation was intriguing. However, similar to the other MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants mentioned earlier—except for Madam B, which has its own pastry chef—the desserts, though appreciated, were very simple.

The only advice I would have is: 1) Don’t sell; serve me sparkling water that I can buy at Carrefour for 0.99 euros. Work with your beverage supplier and carry a sparkling water with a “mysterious” name; 2) Clear the empty glasses and water bottles at least between services.

In the end, Panaille offers tremendous value for money, at least for lunch, and is an authentic MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant. They frequently change the menu, so it is worth visiting often.

Ambiance, vibe, service: 3
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 4
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365 score 17

Panaille
Address: 137 Rue du Tondu, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 (0) 6 60 41 87 39
https://www.panaille.fr/

In summary, all four MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Bordeaux are worth visiting. Madame B is my overall favorite, while Kadem and Panaille are excellent options that offer great value for money, especially for lunch. We did not visit Inomoto’s Table because it is located in Saint-André-de-Cubzac, outside of Bordeaux proper. With the time we have left in Bordeaux, I would like to focus on exploring the MICHELIN 1-star restaurants instead.

Bistros in Bordeaux

There are a lot of what I call the “B.S. Bistros of Bordeaux (BBB),” so you need to be careful.

Amicis’ Bistro

Amicis functions as a bistro by day and a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant by night. We didn’t want to go at night (at least not yet), so we tried the brasserie.

Here are my thoughts: Overall, the atmosphere is lively. The wine selection by the glass was just average, so we opted for a bottle instead. The presentation, plating, and flavor of the food were excellent. However, despite claiming to have a pastry chef, the desserts were disappointing.

Amicis' "Velvety Cauliflower Soup, Perfect Egg, Hazelnuts"
Amicis’ “Velvety Cauliflower Soup, Perfect Egg, Hazelnuts”

So, regarding a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant, I can’t comment. As a bistro, I think Amicis is okay, but for me, there are many better options in Bordeaux, which I discuss below. Such as any of the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants, or Au Bistro, for that matter.

That said, Amicis was packed, and people seemed to be having a good time. So, “to each his own,” give it a try, maybe you will like it.

Ambiance, vibe, service: 3
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 5
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365 score: 16

Address: 19 Rue Mably, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 52 80 41
https://www.restaurant-amicis.fr/

Arcada

It was a sunny and warm November day, so I decided to skip wine school and explore the Chartrons District, where I live. I stopped by “4th Wave Café” to enjoy a cup of Kona coffee (See my post “The Best Restaurants in Chatrons“).

Arcada restaurant, Bordeaux, France
Arcada restaurant, Bordeaux, France

While I was there, I struck up a conversation with the staff, and when I asked for their lunch recommendations, they suggested Arcada, a restaurant in downtown Bordeaux. So, I quickly canceled my lunch plans in Chartrons, made a reservation at Arcada, and headed downtown.

Arcada's wine cellar, Bordeaux, France
Arcada’s wine cellar, Bordeaux, France

I arrived at Arcada. The welcome was warm. I chose my seat. As an aperitif, I started with a white vermouth; I don’t know, I was just in the mood. It was nicely made and a refreshing start. They also offer a Bloody Mary, among other options.

Arcada's white vermouth apéritif, Bordeaux, France
Arcada’s white vermouth apéritif, Bordeaux, France

For starters, I ordered the “Roasted Portobello,” mascarpone-truffle stuffing, brown mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, sherry gel, green olive oil, and port sauce. I paired it with a glass of the “Château Bonnet Rouge Réserve.” It worked.

Arcada's “Roasted Portobello,” mascarpone-truffle stuffing, brown mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, sherry gel, green olive oil, and port sauce." Bordeaux, France
Arcada’s “Roasted Portobello,” mascarpone-truffle stuffing, brown mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, sherry gel, green olive oil, and port sauce.” Bordeaux, France

For my main course, I ordered the “Pork tenderloin,” cauliflower mousseline with brown butter, endive roasted in chorizo ​​oil, sautéed shiitake mushrooms, pearl onions confit in cider vinegar, roasted hazelnuts, and pork jus. I paired it with a glass of the “Chateau Cartier, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 2019,” which worked well.

Arcada's “Pork tenderloin,” cauliflower mousseline with brown butter, endive roasted in chorizo ​​oil, sautéed shiitake mushrooms, pearl onions confit in cider vinegar, roasted hazelnuts, and pork jus," Bordeaux, France
Arcada’s “Pork tenderloin,” cauliflower mousseline with brown butter, endive roasted in chorizo ​​oil, sautéed shiitake mushrooms, pearl onions confit in cider vinegar, roasted hazelnuts, and pork jus,” Bordeaux, France

I then ordered the “Cheese Assortment,” and paired it with “Louise Dubois, Pouilly-Fuisse Grande Reserve, 2019.” It worked perfectly.

Arcada's “Cheese Assortment," Bordeaux, France
Arcada’s “Cheese Assortment,” Bordeaux, France

Finally, I selected the “White chocolate and soursop ganache, coconut shortbread, mango gel, passion fruit, vanilla coconut water, and ginger salted caramel.” I paired it with a “Château Saint Aubin, Bas Armagnac, Vintage 1992,” and it worked well.

Arcada's "White chocolate and soursop ganache, coconut shortbread, mango gel, passion fruit, vanilla coconut water, and ginger salted caramel," Bordeaux, France
Arcada’s “White chocolate and soursop ganache, coconut shortbread, mango gel, passion fruit, vanilla coconut water, and ginger salted caramel,” Bordeaux, France

In summary, Arcada’s ambiance, vibe, and service were exceptional. The wine-by-the-glass options and the overall wine list were above average. It would be a great addition to have a Maury by the glass, which is quite fashionable today, on the menu to pair with desserts. The presentation and plating of the dishes were also above average, and it was clear that the team was putting effort into each dish. The cheese plate, while somewhat basic, was reasonably priced at 6 euros, so it was hard to complain. The “chef’s” dessert was a commendable attempt. Overall, the experience was quite enjoyable.

In my opinion, the restaurant lives up to its reputation as a “restaurant to watch.” The value for money is exceptional, and the chef and the team are putting in extra effort to showcase their talents. If they maintain this level of quality, I wouldn’t be surprised to see them designated a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand or even receive a star within the next three to five years.

Ambiance, vibe, service: 5
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4
Presentation and plating: 4
Cheese plate or dessert quality: 3
Yummy quotient: 4

Bonvivant365 score: 20

Arcada
Address: 13 Rue de la Rousselle, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 23 08 61
https://www.arcada-restaurant.fr/

Bistros in Bordeaux, France

As I mentioned above, bistros typically have smaller spaces than restaurants or brasseries, creating a cozier, more informal atmosphere that feels like a neighborhood favorite. They often serve traditional French cuisine, occasionally with a modern twist. To evaluate the bistros I visit, I use our 5-point rating system (refer to my blog post “5-point Restaurant Rating System” for more details).

Au Bistro

Wherever I go, I always try to find out where the locals eat. So, I asked one of my teachers at school (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“) for a list of recommended local restaurants. Au Bistro was on the list. In fact, he mentioned that when he worked nearby, he used to go to Au Bistro for lunch twice a week. I had to give it a try.

As is our fashion, we arrived early before the doors opened to ensure we had a good choice of seating. The first room features a long, bar-like counter that faces the kitchen. We unashamedly grabbed a seat at the counter, which allowed us to watch the chefs at work; the ambiance and vibe were lively.

Au Bistro's counter, Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro’s counter, Bordeaux, France

Since Au Bistro is located directly across the square from the Marché des Capucins, the largest covered market in Bordeaux, it has access to a steady stream of ultra-fresh produce, meats, and fish. They have an excellent wine list by the bottle, and there were eight wine options available by the glass: four whites and four reds from various French wine regions, offered at reasonable prices.

To start, I ordered the “Oeufs en Meurette,” which are poached eggs in a red wine sauce (see the picture below).

Au Bistro's "Oeufs Meurette," Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro’s “Œufs Meurette,” poached eggs in a rich and flavorful red wine sauce, Bordeaux, France

My wife opted for the pumpkin soup, see the picture below. Both dishes were excellent. In fact, the “Oeufs en Meurette” were the best I have had in France.

Au Bistro's pumpkin soup, Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro’s “Pumpkin Soup,” Bordeaux, France

For our main courses, I selected the râble de lapin, or rabbit saddle. Rabbit saddles refer to the loin meat from the rabbit; rabbit loin meat is exceptionally tender. My dish was served with root vegetables and a broth, see picture below. It was outstanding.

Au-Bistro's "Rabbit Saddle with Root Vegetables," Bordeaux, FranceAu-Bistro's "Rabbit Saddle with Root Vegetables," Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro’s “Rabbit Saddle” with root vegetables and jus, Bordeaux, France

My wife opted for the Chicken Caesar Salad, see the picture below.

Au Bistro's "Chicken Caesar Salad," Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro’s “Chicken Caesar Salad,” Bordeaux, France

For dessert, we decided to share Pain Perdu, French toast (yes, the French eat French toast for dessert). It was just ok. I have had much better, see the picture below.

Au Bistro's "French toast," Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro’s “French toast,” Bordeaux, France

Au Bistro is a genuinely traditional French bistro that offers an intimate, cozy, and informal atmosphere. It focuses on simple, home-style meals, with a touch of gastronomy for good measure, making it a perfect neighborhood go-to spot.

In fact, it is the most authentically French experience I have had at a restaurant during my time in France. However, be prepared for a few things: the service rhythm is French, and while the staff is welcoming and pleasant, they maintain a professional distance. There are no English menus available, and to-go boxes are not provided, so bring your own.

Au Bistro, second visit

Au Bistro is by far the best bistro I have found in Bordeaux, and all the restaurants I know agree. So when my wife’s friend came to visit, we took her to Au Bistro. It was better than the first time. This is what we had:

Au Bistro's "Village Soup" Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Village Soup” Bordeaux
Au Bistro's "Soup Saint Jacques," Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Soup Saint Jacques,” Bordeaux
Au Bistro's "Sausage in Brioche," Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Sausage in Brioche” with gravy and side salad, Bordeaux
Au Bistro's "Sea Bass," Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Sea Bass” with root vegetables and broth, Bordeaux
Au Bistro's "Scallops," Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Scallops” with root vegetables and broth, Bordeaux
Au Bistro's "Braised Beef," Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Braised Beef” with root vegetables and jus, Bordeaux
Au Bistro's "Pear Clafoutis," Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Pear Clafoutis,” Bordeaux
Au Bistro's "Soft Chocolate Cake," Bordeaux
Au Bistro’s “Soft Chocolate Cake,” Bordeaux

Ambiance, vibe, service: 5
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 2

Bonvivant365 scored: 21

Au Bistro
Address: 61, place des Capucins, 51, rue du Hamel, 33800 Bordeaux
Phone: + 33 06 63 54 21 14
https://www.facebook.com/aubistrotbordeaux/?locale=fr_FR

Cochon Volant

As I mentioned above, I always try to find out where locals eat whenever I travel. To find some recommended local restaurants, I asked one of my teachers at school for suggestions. He told me about Cochon Volant, a bistro famous for its dish featuring “Le Noir de Bigorre” (English: “The Black Pig of Bigorre”).

The “Black Pig of Bigorre” is distinguished by its distinctive black coat and horizontal ears. This breed is native to the Central Pyrenees and is not found anywhere else. Evidence of the Noir de Bigorre pig dates back to the Gallo-Roman era. Today, these pigs are raised in the foothills of the Pyrenees, where they are fed a natural, healthy diet of grass, fruits, and nuts, resulting in meat with distinct marbling and flavor.

The Black Pig of Bigorre is a product certified with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). This means that the name “Black Pig of Bigorre” can only be used for this specific breed of pig and cannot be applied to other breeds or black pigs raised in different locations. The PDO certification for Noir de Bigorre pork ensures that the pigs are born, raised, and slaughtered in a designated area that includes the Hautes-Pyrénées, certain towns in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, and parts of Gers and Haute-Garonne. Additionally, these pigs must be at least 12 months old at the time of slaughter.

I love “black pig.” In fact, ten years ago, I enjoyed Sicilian black pig, known as “Nero Siciliano,” in Taormina, Sicily. This breed is a domestic pig raised in the Nebrodi mountain range, which runs along the northeast coast of Sicily in the province of Messina.

We visited the Marché des Capucins yesterday and had lunch at Cochon Volant, located across the street from the market, next to CAMPET, a butcher shop renowned in Bordeaux for its traditional milk-fed lamb and duck cuts, including breasts, legs, wings, and fresh foie gras.

Cochon Volant offers a variety of dishes featuring Bigorre black pig. I opted for the ribs. They were excellent.

Cochon Volant's pork ribs, Bordeaux, France
Cochon Volant’s pork ribs, Bordeaux, France

My favorite dish at Cochon Volant was the baked Camembert starter, served in a unique way. If I were to serve it to guests at home, I would prepare it as Cochon Volant: the cheese would be baked with crispy bacon on the side and accompanied by a side salad dressed with mustard vinaigrette, along with toast points topped with parsley and garlic persillade, as shown in the picture below.

Cochon Volant's baked Camembert cheese, Bordeaux, France
Cochon Volant’s baked Camembert cheese, Bordeaux, France

Cochon Volant is a “shabby” French bistro. It is a neighborhood restaurant where one can enjoy French home cooking, particularly meat dishes, accompanied by a decent wine selection by the glass and or bottle.

For me, Cochon Volant was fun but just okay. If I spent the time to visit the Marché des Capucins, I would instead enjoy oysters at Chez Jean-Mi, an iconic restaurant specializing in oysters, seafood, and shellfish. Alternatively, I would visit Poulette le Bouscat, equally iconic, with its mussel bar inside the market or its lobster bar outside.

If I preferred to dine at a bistro, I would choose Au Bistro, as mentioned above. In fact, we enjoyed Au Bistro so much that when my wife’s old friend visited in December, after showing her the Marché des Capucins, we took her there so she could experience it.

Ambiance, vibe, service: 3
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 3
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365 score: 15

Cochon Volan
Address: 22 Pl. des Capucins, 33800 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 05 57 59 10 00

Brasseries in Bordeaux, France

Brasseries typically feature a larger, more elegant, and open-air setting. A great example of this is the iconic Le Grand Colbert in Paris, which serves traditional French cuisine. I use a 5-point rating system to compare the bistros I visit; you can find more details in my blog post titled “5-Point Restaurant Rating System.”

Below are the best brasseries in Bordeaux I found.

Brasserie Bordelaise

We visited Brasserie Bordelaise three years ago on our first visit to Bordeaux. We found the food decent, but the experience felt somewhat touristy given its central location. This time, we did not plan to visit. But several local sommeliers highly recommended this restaurant, praising its classic dishes from Southwest France and its extensive wine list. So, we decided to give it another try. This is what I discovered.

Brasserie Bordelaise's "Charcuterie platter," Bordeaux cracklings, Médoc granaries, Iberian sausage, chorizo, Cebo ham, Bordeaux, France
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “Charcuterie platter,” Bordeaux cracklings, Médoc granaries, Iberian sausage, chorizo, Cebo ham, Bordeaux, France

To begin, we shared Brasserie Bordelaise’s “Charcuterie platter,” which included Bordeaux cracklings, Médoc granaries, Iberian sausage, chorizo, and Cebu ham, as shown in the picture above. We paired the platter with Champagne, Paul Laurent Brut, and a Crémant de Bordeaux, Château Fonchereau.

“La Perle” oysters, No. 3 from OËL DUPUCH, oyster farmer in Cap-Ferret, Bordeaux, France, as shown in the picture below. The Perle is a plump, crisp oyster paired with a Melody, a Côtes de Gascogne moelleux.

Brasserie Bordelaise's "La Perle" oysters, No. 3 from OËL DUPUCH, oyster farmer in Cap-Ferret, Bordeaux, France
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “La Perle” oysters, No. 3 from OËL DUPUCH, oyster farmer in Cap-Ferret, Bordeaux, France

For my main course, I selected the “Beef cheek Bordelaise style,” accompanied by mashed potatoes and roasted carrots, and paired it with a Château Richebon, Pauillac, 2019.

Brasserie Bordelaise's "Beef cheek Bordelaise style," mashed potatoes, roasted carrots, Bordeaux, France
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “Beef cheek Bordelaise style,” mashed potatoes, roasted carrots, Bordeaux, France

My wife selected the “Roast chicken from the Gruey farm in Pissos,” accompanied by rich jus, truffled stuffing, confit garlic, and dauphinoise potatoes, paired with a 2024 Château Perron, Graves.

Brasserie-Bordelaise's "Roast chicken from the Gruey farm in Pissos," rich jus, truffled stuffing, confit garlic, dauphinoise potatoes, Bordeaux, France
Brasserie-Bordelaise’s “Roast chicken from the Gruey farm in Pissos,” rich jus, truffled stuffing, confit garlic, dauphinoise potatoes, Bordeaux, France

For dessert, we share the “French toast,” accompanied by salted caramel, vanilla ice cream (see the picture below), and paired with Audry, Fine Champagne XO, a blend of 50% Grande Champagne and 50% Petite Champagne.

Brasserie Bordelaise's "French toast," salted caramel, vanilla ice cream, Bordeaux, France
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “French toast,” salted caramel, vanilla ice cream, Bordeaux, France

Brasserie Bordelaise is a large, family-friendly French brasserie specializing in dishes from the Southwest of France, accompanied by an extensive wine list. In fact, it is the most family-friendly brasserie I have encountered during my stay in France.

The restaurant was filled with large groups of multi-generational families enjoying good food and drink while connecting. As a French friend remarked, “It is an easy place to visit; it is always exactly what you expect it to be.”

If you’re in central Bordeaux and looking for a family-friendly dining option, Brasserie Bordelaise is an excellent choice. It offers mass-produced, well-prepared, and presented gourmet versions of classic Southwestern French dishes in a lovely setting with a fun vibe, superb service, and an impressive wine list (English spoken if needed).

Ambiance, vibe, service: 5
Wine by the glass options: 5
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 3
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365: score: 20

Address: 50 Rue Saint-Rémi, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 87 11 91
https://www.brasserie-bordelaise.fr/

Le Quatrième Mur’s Brasserie (English: The Fourth Wall) operates as a brasserie and a MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in the evening. Since we did not want to go at night (at this time), we visited the brasserie for lunch. So, I’m unable to share my thoughts on the MICHELIN 1-star experience, but I can share my thoughts on the brasserie.

Despite the beautiful setting, for us, the atmosphere felt more like a cafeteria, and the service seemed chaotic, even by Brasserie standards, but the wine-by-the-glass selections were good.

For my starter, my wife had the “Signature Entree”: mushroom fricassee ravioli, pan-seared foie gras, and a creamy mushroom sauce, pictured below. I had the “Fresh Mackerel”: flame-seared with blueberry relish, lemon cream, and tangy vinaigrette. Both were plated well and “yummy.”

The Fourth Walls' "Signature Entree," mushroom fricassee ravioli, pan-seared foie gras, and a creamy mushroom sauce
The Fourth Walls’ “Signature Entree,” mushroom fricassee ravioli, pan-seared foie gras, and a creamy mushroom sauce

For her main course, my wife chose the “Roasted Pollock,” which was served with butternut risotto, seaweed relish, and a seafood emulsion. I ordered the “Pan-fried Pork Tenderloin,” accompanied by hazelnut Viennese pastry, a variation of Jerusalem artichoke with coffee, lemon/calamansi gel, and a rich coffee jus.

The main courses were plated well but lacked overall flavor and any “yumminess, so we pushed them aside. Due to the service being painfully slow and our disappointment with the main courses, we chose not to try the dessert. So I do not give Le Quatrième Mur a final score below.

As for Le Quatrième Mur, I can’t comment on it as a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant. However, as a brasserie, I don’t think it’s the best choice in Bordeaux; there are better options, such as MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants and Au Bistro, which I discuss below.

That said, Le Quatrième Mur was quite busy, and diners seemed to be enjoying themselves. Ultimately, it’s a matter of personal preference, so you might want to give it a try—you may enjoy it.

Ambiance, vibe, service: 2
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 2
Dessert quality: (Did not try, can’t comment)

No final Bonvivant365 score since not all factors were completed.

Address: Opéra National de Bordeaux – Grand-Théâtre, 2 Pl. de la Comédie, 33000
Phone: 05 56 02 49 70
https://quatrieme-mur.com/

Le Noailles

We were told that Le Noailles is hands down the most Parisian of Bordeaux Brasseries, at least that is what I was told. So, my wife and I had to try it.

One afternoon, we visited, and I began with oysters, while my wife ordered the gazpacho, which reminded us of “ready-made gazpacho” from a box with chopped fresh vegetables on the side.

Le Noailles's "Carpaccio," Bordeaux, France
Le Noailles’s “Carpaccio,” Bordeaux, France

Given the ambiance, vibe, service, and food quality, based on what we tried first, we decided it was best to cut our losses and leave. We will not return.

Le Noailles
Address: 12 All. de Tourny, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 81 94 45
https://www.lenoailles.fr/

Causal Place to Eat, Bordeaux, France

Casual dining falls between fast food and fine dining. These restaurants are themed and offer table service, along with a selection of cocktails, beer, and wine, or a combination of these beverages. I do not apply our 5-point restaurant rating system to casual dining (see my blog post “5-point Restaurant Rating System“)

Below are the best casual dining restaurants in Bordeaux that I found.

Peking Garden, Chinese Sichuanese Cuisine

The Peking Garden (French: Le Jardin Pekinois) is a casual Chinese restaurant specializing in Sichuan cuisine. This style of cooking originates from Sichuan Province in southwestern China. It is renowned for its bold flavors and generous use of Sichuan peppers, which can cause a numbing, tingling sensation when consumed in large quantities.

I ordered the beef and onions, pictured below, which is “épicé et pimenté” (English: spicy and hot). My eyes watered, my nose ran, and my face fell numb. It hurt to eat it, in a good way. I almost gave up. But then I channeled my inner “Doss” and thought, “Oh, Lord, let me take one more bite. Just one more bite, Lord,” and finished the entire dish, including all the Sichuan peppers —see picture below.

The Peaking Garden's "Beef and Onions," Bordeaux, France
The Peaking Garden’s beef and onions, Bordeaux, France

I am not kidding. This is a fact. According to the “Google Oracle,” Szechuan pepper creates a unique sensation that is both numbing and tingling. This distinct sensory experience is caused by a compound called hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, which interacts with nerve endings to produce its characteristic buzz.

Peking Garden – Second Visit

Since I was in the area, I decided to return to Peaking Garden. I had the beef and onions again, but this time I started with the homemade fried chicken spring rolls, which were served with lettuce, mint leaves, and fish sauce. They were excellent, as shown in the picture below.

The Peking Garden's homemade fried chicken spring rolls with lettuce, mint leaves, and fish sauce, Bordeaux, France
Peking Garden’s homemade fried chicken spring rolls with lettuce, mint leaves, and fish sauce, Bordeaux, France

The Peking Garden
Address: 9 Rue des Frères Bonie, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 24 54 76 98
https://lejardinpekinois33.com/

MICHELIN Star Restaurants in Bordeaux, France

MICHELIN 2-star

See my post “Maison Nouvelle, Chef Philippe Etchebest’s Restaurant.”

MICHELIN 1-star restaurant

See my post “Soléna Restaurant, Bordeaux.”

Best Restaurants in Dijon, France

My wife and I traveled to Dijon, France, for four weeks. Whenever we decided where to have lunch or dinner, I always referred to the “MICHELIN Guide” to find the restaurants in Dijon. In this case, I zeroed in on “Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN Restaurants

The MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants are named after Bibendum, commonly known as the Michelin Man, the mascot for the Michelin Group. In the MICHELIN restaurant rating system, they are above MICHELIN “Selected Restaurants ” and below MICHELIN 1 Star. MICHELIN Bib Gourmands are defined as good-quality, good-value cooking. Experienced foodies and lovers often refer to these establishments as “Fat Boys.”

MICHELIN 1-, 2-, and 3-Star restaurants are incredible; I visit them occasionally. However, my visits have decreased since I attended cooking school in France. My culinary instructor, who once ran several 1-MICHELIN-Star restaurants, often said, “MICHELIN Star restaurants leave ‘all the taste on the check.'” I don’t find that to be true for MICHELIN Bib Gourmands. I have discovered that they perfectly embody the idea of the “Gastronomic meal of the French,” recognized as an intangible UNESCO cultural heritage. These restaurants offer excellent food, atmosphere, and service at a fair price.

What is the alternative? Let’s take a look at TripAdvisor. As of the time of this post, the list of “The 10 Best Restaurants in Dijon” on TripAdvisor includes “Foodies,” “Vauban Cellar,” “It Trattoria,” “Five Guys,” “New School Tacos,” “Starbucks,” “Elmas Kebab du Stade,” “La Cabane à Burger Dijon,” “French Tacos,” “Quick Dijon Gare.”

Apart from “Vauban Cellar,” which seems to have a rockin’ wine selection and outdoor seating in “Liberation Square,” I find this list puzzling. Don’t get me wrong; I enjoy pizza, hamburgers, and tacos like anyone else, and I appreciate them as a refreshing break from French cuisine on occasion. But when traveling, my eating philosophy is “When in Rome,” meaning I prefer to eat local cuisine in the country I’m visiting.

Well, you say, ask, “Have you tried Gault&Millau?” Sure, I have. I believe Gault&Millau practices the philosophy of the “Friend to all, enemy to none approach.” Every restaurant and food joint seems to get some level of “Participation trophy.” There are so many listed per toques levels that it is hard to define a selection.

All of this is my own opinion, of course. And you know what they say about opinions, don’t you? I had lunch at all the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Dijon. There are four of them. This is what I experienced:

MICHELIN Bib Gourmand Restaurants in Dijon

SPICA

SPICA was the first Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.

SPICA offers three-course lunch and dinner menus that change regularly.“ Each menu features a variety of options at every course, including “Entrée + Plat + Dessert.” They also have daily suggestions. Like Cave below, SPICA does not list specific menu items on its website.

As an apéritif, we ordered a “Cremant of Burgundy,” which is a sparkling wine from Burgundy made using the traditional Champagne method.

We were served an amuse-bouche, which was excellent.

For her starter, my wife selected the “Tomato soup, balsamic reduction, stracciatella, speck ham, olive oil, basil.” I selected the “Green bean salad, poultry liver mousse, and raspberry vinaigrette.” SPICA offers an excellent wine-by-the-glass menu featuring Premier Crus. So we ordered wine by the glass to taste various Burgundies.

For my main course, I selected the “Boneless chicken thigh, organic tricolor quinoa, seasonal vegetables, and lemon cream,” pictured below. My wife selected the “Fish of the day.”

SPICA's "Boneless chicken thigh, organic tricolor quinoa, seasonal vegetables, and lemon cream"
SPICA’s “Boneless chicken thigh, organic tricolor quinoa, seasonal vegetables, and lemon cream”

I had the “Plate of 3 cheeses from Porcheret.” The Porcheret Cheese Factory is one of the area’s most famous cheese dairies, with a nearly century-long family history. The cheeses are aged in the cellar located just below the store, and the shop showcases almost 200 different products. It is a must-visit when in Dijon.

We shared the “Creain cheese terrine with vanilla beans, strawberry-rhubarb sauce, rhubarb sorbet.”

The food was well-prepared, presented, and yummy. At 27 euros for a three-course meal, SPICA represented the spirit of Bib Gourmand.

SPICA is one of the best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my third choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.

Address : 48 Rue de la Préfecture, 21000 Dijon
Phone: 06 26 85 87 17
https://www.restaurantspica.com/

L’Évidence

L’Évidence was the second Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.

Since the weather was nice, we stopped for an apéritif at La Brasserie des Loges. They offer Burgundy Premier Cru by the glass. My wife ordered a white wine, and I ordered a Campari Spritz.

L’Évidence offers two—or three—or four-course lunch menus that change regularly.“ Each menu features a variety of options at every course and provides daily suggestions. The menus are regularly updated on the website.

We were served an amuse-bouche, which was excellent.

My wife ordered the two-course menu, which included a choice of “Entree + Main” or “Main + Dessert.” She chose the main and dessert. I chose the three-course menu, which included “Entree + Main + Dessert.”

I ordered the “Homemade parsley ham, mustard, whipped cream, red onion pickles” as a starter, pictured below. Parsley ham (Jambon Persillé De Bourgonne) is a traditional Eastertide dish from Burgundy. Think “SPAM® Classic.” Enjoy it and practice the sausage principle: “If you love something, never find out how it’s made,” John Oliver, British comedian.

The classic recipe for Burgundy Parsley ham includes ham, knuckle of veal, calf’s feet, Bouquet Garni, peppercorns, and white wine. I told you not to ask. It is served all year long. Not just during Easterdite.

L'Évidence's "Parsley ham"
L’Évidence’s “Parsley ham”

My wife ordered the “Fish of the day, Madras curry sauce” for her main course, and I ordered the “Rack of veal cooked at low temperature, sliced jus with hazelnut butter.” The chef’s special of the day was “sweetbreads.” I know what you are thinking – a giant sweet French pastry for lunch. The French are so cool! No, these are not delicious French pastries made from sugar and bread.

Sweetbreads are the culinary term for the thymus gland of calves, veal, or lambs (a.k.a. organ meat higher up on the body than “Rocky Mountain oysters”). They are sometimes referred to as throat, gullet, or neck sweetbreads. The term “sweet” refers to their richer and sweeter flavor compared to typical meats, while “bread” comes from an old English word, “bræd,” which means flesh.

When I first dabbled in gastronomy in the early 1990s, I always enjoyed sweetbreads. Today, I do not care for the thought of them or their texture, but I did learn to prepare them during my French culinary school training. You can poach, sauté, or deep fry sweetbreads. If I were to serve sweetbreads, I would deep-fry them and serve them as a starter, accompanied by a yummy sauce such as Dijon mustard sauce, gribiche sauce, or maybe just ketchup (I’m only kidding). But then perhaps a homemade barbecue sauce (mmm).

I added the “Plate of 4 cheeses from our region” to try local cheese.

My wife’s menu included “Cherries, namelaka dark chocolate, crumble” for dessert. I selected the “Almond shortbread, strawberries, vanilla diplo nat, mint gel” from my menu choices.

L’Évidence was the most expensive of the four Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurants. But it was perfect and worth the visit—the dishes were executed flawlessly.

L’Évidence is one of the Best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my second choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.

Address: 53 Rue Jeannin, 21000 Dijon
Phone: 03 80 67 69 37
https://restaurant-levidence-dijon.com/

Cave

Cave was the third Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.

Cave Restaurant is the baby brother of its big sister, CIBO, Chef Angelo Ferrigno’s 1-star MICHELIN restaurant just across the street.

Like its big sister, Cave serves creative, modern food and is committed to sourcing its ingredients locally, exclusively within a 200km radius. It offers a simple yet elegant three-course menu with a fixed set of dishes created by the chef, served to everyone at the table. I could not find the menu on the website, so I am unsure how often it changes. I suppose we could call to find out what was offered before going. But we did not. So for us, it was like a chef’s surprise menu.

As is my usual practice, my wife and I arrived early so that I could choose our seats, which is not always possible. In this instance, I could select two seats at the counter, only four of which overlook the small galley kitchen.

The restaurant features one chef and server, making “mise en place” crucial. (Mise en place is a French culinary term that means “putting in place” or “gathering.” It refers to the organization and setup required before cooking.) Watching the chef and server work is akin to watching a ballet unfold.

Cave served Morava ham as an amuse-bouche, see picture below.

Cave's Morvan ham amuse-bouche
Cave’s Morvan ham amuse-bouche

Morvan ham (“Jambon du Morvan”) is a “Historic” Burgundy ham made from pigs raised in the Morvan mountain range in Burgundy-Franche-Comte, France, approximately 63 km west of Dijon.

Dry salted, seasoned, and matured in the maturing cellars for 9 to 18 months, the ham gives it its distinctive aromas and taste. One of the oldest and most noted producers is Fernand Dussert, a founding member of the “Jambon du Morvan association.” Follow the association on Facebook HERE.

On a side note, an alternative to the traditional Burgundy parsley ham described above (See “L’Évidence” post) is Morvan parsley ham (“Jambon Persillé du Morvan”), which is made by marbling Morvan ham with parsley and garlic, flavored with Aligoté white Burgundy wine, and coated with a light jelly.

The “Chef’s Surprise” lunch menu included:

Cave's "French green bean salad of Mr Vachon, Burgundy mozzarella sorbet, and dried beef"
Cave’s “French green bean salad of Mr Vachon, Burgundy mozzarella sorbet, and dried beef”
Cave's "Saône catfish of Simon Collin served with grilled spring onion, cauliflower puree, and fermented cream sabayon sauce"
Cave’s “Saône catfish of Simon Collin served with grilled spring onion, cauliflower puree, and fermented cream sabayon sauce”
Cave's "Strawberries of Jean Luc Valliot served with fresh panna cotta, flouve and raspberry ice cream"
Cave’s “Strawberries of Jean Luc Valliot served with fresh panna cotta, flouve and raspberry ice cream”

Mr Vachon, Simon Collin, and Luc Valliot are the local growers or sources. Flouve is an aromatic spirit infused with Flouve Odorante, “Sweat vernal grass,” with a distinctive, pleasant scent of freshly cut hay. The Saône is one of the many rivers running through the Val de Saône, approximately 35 km from Dijon. It is full of trout, pike, carp, or catfish.

The entire dining experience was, as the French would say, parfait! Or simply, super! It was the best three-course meal I have ever had for just 30 euros, and one of the finest Bib Gourmand restaurants I have ever encountered. I enjoyed it so much that I made a reservation for next week at CIBO. I will provide an update here afterward.

If I lived in Dijon, I would go whenever the menu changed. Cave is one of the best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my first choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.

Address: 29 Rue Jeannin, 21000 Dijon
Phone: 03 80 41 48 26
https://cave.restaurant/

SO

SO was the fourth Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.

A husband-and-wife team operates the restaurant. He is the chef, while she manages the front of the house. The menu is straightforward and affordable. There is a three-course menu, which includes “Entree + Main + Dessert,” or a four-course menu, which provides for “Entree + Main (Fish) + Main (Meat) + Dessert,” or you can order à la carte. You can also add a cheese plate. Each stage featured a choice between two starters, two main courses, and two desserts. In situations like this, we usually order one of each to sample everything. So, we ordered the “Entree + Main + Dessert” menu.

We were not served an amuse-bouche.

For starters, we shared the chef’s variation of the classic “Oeufs en Meurette” (Poached Eggs in Red Wine Sauce), a traditional Burgundy dish. In this case, the chef presented a poached egg nestled in a bowl of smooth pea velouté, accompanied by a quenelle of pepper cream and the black pudding (a.k.a. blood sausage), potato puree, and salad, pictured below.

SO's "Black pudding (a.k.a. blood sausage), potato puree, and salad."
SO’s “Black pudding (a.k.a. blood sausage), potato puree, and salad.”

Blood sausage is precisely what its name suggests—sausage made from thickened and encased animal blood, which can come from pigs, sheep, lambs, cows, chickens, or geese. I have always avoided blood sausage, but I decided to try it since it was the only other entrée option available. The taste was okay, but I didn’t like the consistency. The salad was welcomed. The dish’s presentation sparked a conversation between my wife and me about how to serve sausage to our guests.

For the main course, we shared the catch of the day dish and a pork tenderloin dish. The pork was cooked perfectly, lightly pink inside—the way the French eat it. For dessert, we shared a panna cotta infused with Earl Grey tea and topped with exotic fruits and a clafoutis with apricots and Chantilly cream.

Overall, I was not very impressed with the restaurant. It felt like too many shortcuts were taken, especially with the sauces. The dishes seemed like something I could have made at home before attending cooking school. On a positive note, the three-course meal cost was only 24 euros each, so I can’t complain too much, aside from the fact that it felt like a waste of calories. We spent more on wine than on the food itself.

Address: 15 Rue Amiral Roussin, 21000 Dijon
Phone: 03 80 30 03 85
https://www.facebook.com/RestaurantSo

Final note

The most intriguing aspect of my experience at the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in Dijon was not what I discovered but what I did not find. Many Burgundy dishes were absent from the menu, including classic Oeufs en Meurette, Burgundy Snails, Gougères, Foie gras and gingerbread paring, beef bourguignon, Coq au vin, poulet Gaston Gérard, Rabbit in Mustard Sauce, and poulet de Bresse, which is regarded as the best-quality table chicken in the world (imagine the perfect trifecta: Bresse chicken stuffed with Foie gras and gingerbread).

Read about the “Best Bouchons in Lyon, France