We traveled to Lyon for six weeks, so I decided to identify the best “Bouchon Lyonnais.” What is a Bouchon Lyonnais, you ask? Simply put, it is a restaurant that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine—homemade regional dishes.
The problem is that many restaurateurs in Lyon claim to be Bouchon Lyonnais. So, how do you pick where to go? Enter the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association, an organization established to preserve and perpetuate the Lyonnais culinary tradition, akin to the AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée), a protected designation of origin for wine. This certification ensures that AOP wines comply with specifications imposed according to their origin. Bouchons that bear the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association label meet specific standards. At this posting, 22 Bouchons that are certified by the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association (See the association’s List of Lyonnais Bouchons by District).
According to the association’s website, to become a member, obtain the Les Bouchons Lyonnais label, and use the Les Bouchons Lyonnais trademark, a restaurant must “undergo an audit conducted by an independent firm that includes several objective criteria covering various areas: table products, staff, and customer relations, interior design, the environment and exteriors, and hygiene, safety, and cleanliness.”
So, I set out with a clear objective: to luncheon at all the Lyonnais Bouchons certified by the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association and “crown a winner.”* Along the way, I learned that each certified Bouchon has merits. Though I may have preferences, each is a winner and worth a visit, and I mean it. I do not award “Participation Trophies.” Ever. Let’s go!
Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse
There are three Daniel & Denise Bouchon locations in Lyon. I visited the Daniel & Denise Croix-Rousse Bouchon in the 4th arrondissement of Lyon. This is the first Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
The Bouchon was filled with tourists and French alike, and the vibe felt like a busy Paris bistro. For the entrée, we ordered the bone marrow. Why? Because I looked around, and that was what every French person ordered. The bone marrow was charred to perfection and slathered with herbs. It was the best bone marrow I have ever had. My wife still talks about it.
My wife ordered the fish of the day for her main, while I chose the homemade pike quenelle with Nantua sauce. Both dishes were well executed, and the sauces that accompanied them were divine. All dishes are served with potatoes browned in duck fat and a béchamel pasta gratin.
Next, I ordered the cheese assortment curated by Daniel and Denise. We shared a “Valrhona chocolate pot and a warm honey-madeleine” for dessert.
While more expensive than other Bouchons I tried in Lyon, the food was among the best in the city. I enjoyed it so much that I returned twice during my stay.
Favorite all-around Bouchon Lyonnaise? Daniel and Denise Croix Rousse.
Address : 8 Rue de Cuire, 69004 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 28 27 44
Website: https://danieletdenise.fr/
Café Comptoir ABEL
Café Comptoir ABEL is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon. It was the second Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Established in 1726, Café Comptoir ABEL is a Lyonnaise institution. Upon entering the restaurant, we felt we were transported back in time. The owners have collected various objects over the years, adding to the place’s charm. The atmosphere was warm, inviting, and vibrant.
We ordered two entrées: I chose the “Salade Lyonnaise (salade verte, croûtons chauds, lardons sautés, œuf mollet).” My wife chose “Hot sausage, warm lentils,” and to accompany our meal, we also ordered a bottle of Côtes du Rhône wine. The hot sausage and warm lentils were presented nicely and tasted delicious.
To main, my wife ordered the “Abel’s famous chicken with morels in cream sauce and pilaf rice.” I ordered the “Pike quenelle gratin ‘Abel'” served with béchamel mushroom sauce. The chicken was delicious, and Abel’s quenelle was light and airy. For dessert, we chose the “Tart Praline” and “Green Chartreuse frozen Parfait.” Both desserts were as they should be.
Favorite hot sausage, warm lentils? Café Comptoir ABEL.
Address: 25 Rue Guynemer, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 37 46 18
Website: https://www.maisonabel.fr/maison-abel/le-cafe-comptoir-chez-abel/
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon and is the third Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
The establishment has a modern yet retro and colorful ambiance. We each ordered a glass of champagne to start our meal.
For our starter, I chose the “L’Orellier du Chef” (Crusted Pâté), while my wife opted for the “Soup of the Day,” which happened to be mushroom soup. We also ordered a house-crafted Côtes du Rhône to accompany our dishes. The crusted pâté was large and delicious, served with a small salad and vinaigrette dressing. The mushroom soup was thick and creamy, Auguste Escoffier style.
My wife selected the “Sturgeon half-cooked with cauliflower prepared in two ways, Jerusalem artichoke chips, and ravigote sauce for her main. I ordered the “Traditional Pike Fish Quenelle with lobster bisque and pilaf rice.” The sturgeon had a mild, slightly sweet flavor with a hint of richness, and the ravigote sauce was delightful. The Jerusalem artichoke chips added a fun touch to the dish.
For dessert, we shared the “Lyonnaise Praline Tart” and the “Lemon Tart with Italian Meringue.” The praline tart was served on a flat pastry crust, while the lemon tart was topped with Italian meringue and accented with an intensely lemony gel. Both tarts were exquisite.
Favorite Tarte Lyonnaise à la praline? Le Bouchon des Cordeliers.
Address: 15 Rue Claudia, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 03 33 53
Website: https://www.bouchondescordeliers.com/
Le Casse Museau
Le Casse Museau is situated in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon and is the fourth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Favorite garlic chicken? Le Casse Museau.
Address : 2 Rue Chavanne, 69001 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 32 64 42
Website: https://lecassemuseau.com/
La Tête de LARD
La Tête de LARD is situated in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon and is the fifth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Favorite “Canuts Brain?” La Tête de LARD.
Address : 13 Rue Désirée, 69001 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 27 96 80
Website: https://www.bouchon-latetedelard.fr/
L’Auberge des canuts
L’Auberge des canuts is situated in the 5th arrondissement of Lyon and is the sixth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Favorite chicken with traditional lyonnaise tomato sauce? L’Auberge des canuts.
Address: 8 Pl. Saint-Jean, 69005 Lyon
Phone: 09 86 50 36 26
Website: https://auberge-des-canuts.com/
Le Poêlon d’Or
Le Poêlon d’Or is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon and is the seventh Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
The Bouchon is a century-old establishment and a listed French heritage site. It was crowded with French locals. Some have come so often and for so long that they have a cast bronze plaque commemorating their table. The restaurant takes pride in being part of the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” group. Mentions are everywhere.
To start, I ordered the “Artichoke Heart with Duck Foie Gras.” My wife chose the “Salad of the Day,” which featured gravlax salmon served inside an avocado half, accompanied by a small side salad with vinaigrette. We ordered the essential Lyonnais pot, Beaujolais, to complement our meal.
For the main course, my wife chose the “Chicken Supreme with Morel Mushroom Cream Sauce and Roasted Potatoes.” I opted for the “Traditional Lyonnaise Pike Quenelle Gratin,” which came with a choice of sauce: Mushroom Béchamel or Crayfish Sauce. Naturally, I selected the crayfish sauce, also known as Nantua sauce. The chicken was perfectly cooked, and the sauce met all expectations. The pike quenelle arrived “swimming in Nantua sauce,” which was expertly prepared. Having made Nantua sauce many times myself, I can appreciate the amount of ingredients required, as well as the time needed to achieve a proper concentration of flavors. We were told that Chef Mickaël Lorini has been preparing this dish for 15 years.
We tried new dessert ideas: “French Toast with Raisins and Rum Crème Anglaise” and the “Colonel Cup,” featuring Lemon Sorbet Vodka. I never tried these desserts before, so it was something new. If I had a do-over, I would order the “Floating Island with Pink Pralines,” which seemed to be every French person’s favorite to order.
Favorite Nantua sauce? Le Poêlon d’Or.
Address : 29 Rue des Remparts d’Ainay, 69002 Lyon
Phone : 04 78 37 65 60
Website: https://www.lepoelondor-restaurant.fr/
Café du Jura
Café du Jura is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon and is the eighth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Favorite Bresse chicken? Café du Jura.
Address: 25 Rue Tupin, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 42 20 57
Website: https://cafedujura.fr/
Le Vivarais
Le Vivarais is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon and is the eighth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Favorite all-around pike quenelle? Le Vivarais.
Address: 1 Pl. Gailleton, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 37 85 15
Website: https://www.restaurant-levivarais.fr/
Bouchon Palais Grillet
Bouchon Palais Grillet is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon and is the ninth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Favorite onion soup? Bouchon Palais Grillet.
Address : 8 Rue Palais Grillet, 69002 Lyon
Phone : 04 72 04 04 00
Website: https://www.bouchonpalaisgrillet.com/
Les Fines Gueules
Les Fines Gueules is situated in the 5th arrondissement of Lyon and is the tenth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address : 16 Rue Lainerie, 69005 Lyon
Phone : 04 78 28 99 14
Webstie: https://les-fines-gueules-lyon.com/fr
Le Bouchon Sully
Le Bouchon Sully is situated in the 6th arrondissement of Lyon and is the eleventh Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address: 20 Rue Sully, 69006 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 89 07 09
Website: https://www.lesullylyon.fr/
L’antr’O Potes
Le Bouchon Sully is situated in the 6th arrondissement of Lyon and is the eleventh Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address : 118 Rue Bossuet, 69006 Lyon
Phone : 04 81 65 29 78
Website: https://lantropotes-lyon.fr/fr
La Chez Meuniere
La Chez Meuniere is situated in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon and is the twelfth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address: 11 Rue Neuve, 69001 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 28 62 91
Website: https://www.lameuniere.fr/
Le Bouchon des Artistes
Le Bouchon des Artistes is situated in the 3rd arrondissement of Lyon and is the thirteenth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address : 98 Rue Mazenod, 69003 Lyon
Phone : 04 78 03 37 40
Website: https://www.le-bouchon-des-artistes.fr/
Bistrot du Marché “At Nénette’s”
Bistrot du Marché “At Nénette’s” is not in Lyon, but in the village of Les Chères, and is the fourteenth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address : 10 Place de l’Église, 69380 Les Chères
Phone : 04 78 03 37 40
Website: https://bistrot-du-marche.fr/?page_id=34&lang=en
Les Culottes Longues
Les Culottes Longues is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon and is the fifteenth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address: 42 Rue Sala, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 37 13 00
Menu: les-culottes-longues.com
Le Bouchon des Artistes
Le Bouchon des Artistes is situated in the 3rd arrondissement of Lyon and is the sixteenth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address : 98 Rue Mazenod, 69003 Lyon
Phone : 04 78 03 37 40
Reservations: le-bouchon-des-artistes.fr
Le Comptoir de Léa
Le Bouchon des Artistes is situated in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon and is the seventeenth Bouchon I visited as part of The Bouchons Lyonnais Project.
Address: 11 Pl. Antonin Gourju, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 42 03 13
* Daniel & Denise have three locations in Lyon. Since all the Daniel & Denise bouchons are overseen by the same chef and boast the same menu, I went to the Daniel and Denise Croix Rousse. I did not go to the Daniel & Denise Créqui or the Daniel & Denise Saint-Jean. Additionally, since Market Bistro at Nénette is not located in Lyon, I did not have the opportunity to visit it.