I had lunch at all the Lyonnais Bouchons certified by the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association.”* Each time, I ordered the pike quenelle. Over six weeks, I sampled 18 pike quenelles, averaging 3 per week (19, including the pike quenelle I tasted at “Restaurant Paul Bocuse“).
Unfortunately, I had hoped to go on a diet in Lyon to shed the weight I gained during six months of culinary and pastry school. I failed in that endeavor, but I enjoyed every moment of it. So, without further ado (drum roll, please), I present the “Quenelles of the Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association.”
Daniel & Denise Quenelle
Daniel and Denise’s pike quenelle, served with Nantua sauce, was beautifully shaped, light, and fluffy. The Nantua sauce had a perfect nappe consistency, a velvety smooth texture, and a deliciously rich umami flavor.
This quality is to be expected, considering that the Bouchon has been run by two “Meilleurs Ouvriers de France” (MOF), or “Best Craftsmen of France,” for over 50 years. You can recognize these chefs by the blue, white, and red collars on their kitchen jackets. As my chef instructors always emphasized, “If you see the blue, white, and red collar on the chef’s jacket—go.”
Café Comptoir Abel Quenelle
Café Comptoir Abel (Abel Counter Cafe) serves a unique pike quenelle with a béchamel sauce that includes mushrooms instead of the traditional Nantua or crustacean sauce. The staff takes great pride in their quenelle, and rightly so. Established in 1928, Café Comptoir Abel is a cherished institution in Lyon. When I mentioned my project to them, they cautioned that I would not find or taste a pike quenelle quite like theirs in my experiences.
Café Comptoir Abel’s pike quenelle lives up to its reputation. Described as “fresh from the oven, airy, and puffed up like an airship, voluptuously lying in a bath of cream,” it truly delivers on taste. This quenelle is an excellent alternative if you do not like Nantua sauce or any crustacean sauces. The only other establishment labeled Bouchon that offers béchamel sauce with mushrooms is Le Poêlon d’Or, which will be discussed below. At Le Poêlon d’Or, you can choose between béchamel sauce with mushrooms or Nantua sauce.
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers Quenelle
At Le Bouchon des Cordeliers (The Cordeliers Cork), the Lyonnaise quenelle made with pike is served with a delicious lobster sauce. The quenelle is cooked until it is well-done, but not overcooked. While it may not be as light, fluffy, and delicate as some other quenelles, it is still nicely prepared.
During my class at “School Kitchen Gourmets By Institut Lyfe,” the chef explained that traditional Nantua sauce is often replaced with lobster sauce to appeal to a broader audience.
Le Tête De Lard Quenelle
Le Tête De Lard’s (The Lard Head)Le Tête De Lard’s (The Lard Head) pike quenelle is accompanied by a crayfish sauce called Nantua sauce. The quenelle was expertly prepared—light, fluffy, and delicate, precisely as it should be—and generously coated in sauce. There was ample sauce left over to mix with the delicious potato gratin that accompanied the meal.
Le Casse Museau Quenelle
Le Casse Museau’s (The Snout Breaker) pike quenelle is served with langoustine sauce. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate as it should be. I wish I had more sauce.
L’Auberge des Canuts Quenelle
L’Auberge des Canuts’ (The Canuts Inn) Pike quenelle is served with a crustacean sauce, including crab, crayfish, lobster, prawns, or shrimps. This is different from the other Bouchons. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, served with plenty of sauce.
Le Poêlon d’Or Quenelle
Le Poêlon d’Or Quenelle (The Golden Pan) pike quenelle is served with the sauce of your choice: Mushroom Béchamel sauce or Nantua sauce (a.k.a. crayfish sauce). Of course, I chose the Nantua sauce. The quenelle was served nicely formed, well-cooked, and piping hot, swimming in sauce.
The chef’s Nantua sauce was not muted; it truly highlighted the flavor of the crayfish. Le Poêlon d’Or’s Nantua sauce was a bold representation, rich in flavor and packed with umami. As a result, it stood out uniquely among all the Bouchons in the association I tried.
Café du Jura Quenelle
Café du Jura’s quenelle, made from pike, is served with lobster sauce. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, while the sauce was rich in flavor and well-prepared. Overall, this was an excellent quenelle paired with a delicious sauce.
Le Vivarais Quenelle
The Le Vivarais pike-perch quenelle is served with Nantua sauce, Arborio risotto, and mushrooms, which are incorporated into the sauce. I believe he cooks the Arborio rice in the sauce, allowing it to break down and absorb the flavors, but I am not sure.
The quenelle was large and well-formed like an airship, light and fluffy. The sauce was elegant, like nothing I had before. No matter how full I became, I couldn’t stop eating the entire quenelle and sauce. The chef is a Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF), so I was not surprised—I was just impressed. I plan to attempt to replicate this pike quenelle dish when I have time. I will post the results.
In terms of food, everything at Le Vivarais, which is more akin to a restaurant, was excellent and offered an impressive gastronomic experience.
Bouchon Palais Grillet Quenelle
Bouchon Palais Grillet’s (Grilled Palate Cork) pike quenelle is accompanied by crab bisque. This quenelle was unique in shape, and the crab sauce was a new experience for me.
Les Fines Gueules
At Les Fines Gueules (The Fine Mouths), “Pike fish quenelle, homemade crab, and lobster bisque” was excellent. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, precisely as it should be. The sauce was delicious; however, the portion was so large that I couldn’t finish the quenelle or the bisque.
I apologized to the chef and the waiter for not being able to complete my meal. Les Fines Gueules was one of the best quenelles I have tried.
Le Sully
Le Sully (The Sully) pike quenelle is served with Nantua sauce. It was heavier and richer than most. I could not finish it. Frankly, I believe my quenelle was overcooked and not typically served this way, or at least, as a chef, I would not serve it this way.
This highlights the importance of timing when cooking a quenelle. If the timing is slightly off, it can significantly compromise the dish. However, I didn’t blame the chef; after tasting it, I politely said I was too full to finish. It happens—every great chef can have an off day or serve a dish that doesn’t meet expectations. If I find myself in Lyon again, I will try it.
La Chez Meuniere
La Chez Meuniere’s (The Miller) pike quenelle I was served was dense like a pound cake. The Nanuta cream sauce was rich and concentrated. I could not eat it.
Frankly, I believe my quenelle was overcooked and not typically served this way, or at least, as a chef, I would not serve it this way. To test my theory, I walked through Bouchon and observed other quenelles that had been served; they looked as they should.
Again, this highlights the importance of timing when cooking a quenelle. If the timing is slightly off, it can significantly compromise the dish. However, I didn’t blame the chef; after tasting it, I politely said I was too full to finish. It happens—every great chef can have an off day or serve a dish that doesn’t meet expectations. If I find myself in Lyon again, I will try it.
Le Bouchon des Artistes
Le Bouchon des Artistes’ (The Artists’ Cork) “Puffed pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, white and wild rice,” was different from the others I tried. It purposefully had a hard top but was light, fluffy, and delicate in the center. The sauce was as expected.
L’antr’O Potes
L’antr’O Potes served a “Puffed Pike Quenelle with Nantua Sauce, white rice, and wild rice” that was a true delight to behold. It was the most soufflé-like quenelle I have ever sampled.
Chef Julien Le Guillou, a disciple of Paul Bocuse, explained that his quenelle dough—a traditional mixture of panade and blended pike meat—is prepared a day in advance. His Nantua sauce, also known as crayfish sauce, is remarkable and takes six hours to make. This meticulous process reflects the classic “Bocuse-esque” style.
After making the quenelle dough, the quenelles are poached in fish fumet for 10 minutes. They are then combined with half-cooked white and wild rice and Nantua sauce in a gratin dish, which is finished in the oven for 10 minutes. The quenelles are served piping hot; the results are outstanding (see picture below).
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette (Market Bistro at Nénette) ‘s “Artisanal Pike Quenelle, crayfish sauce” was lightly browned. Initially, I thought the quenelle looked undercooked because of its light browning. However, it was perfectly cooked—light, fluffy, delicate, and smooth.
The Nantua sauce was magical. No matter how full I became, it was impossible to stop eating this quenelle. Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette’s pike quenelle is among my all-time favorite pike quenelles.
Les Culottes Longues
Les Culottes Longues’ (Long Panties) “Pike Quenelle and Fish Cake, Lobster Sauce” was a new twist. Typically, pike quenelles are served with rice or potatoes, not a fish cake. This innovative twist is typical of Chef David Cano, known for constantly trying new things to improve and progress.
The pike quenelle was light and delicate. The fish case was flaky and yummy. The lobster sauce was delicious. The elements complemented each other perfectly, making the dish easy to eat.
Bouchon Léa
Bouchon Léa offers a homemade pike quenelle served with lobster sauce. The quenelle is well-formed, light, and delicate, accompanied by rice pilaf. I found both the quenelle and the sauce to be excellently prepared. It’s worth a try.
To learn more about my experiences at each Bouchon, refer to my post titled “Best Bouchons in Lyon.”
