Château Batailley Visit

Today, my wife and I had the fortunate opportunity to join a wine excursion organized by the wine school we are attending (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). We visited Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé of 1855, located within the Pauillac AOC.

Château Batailley, Grand-Cru-Classé-en-1855, Pauillac AOC
Château Batailley, Grand-Cru-Classé-en-1855, Pauillac AOC

The name “Batailley” comes from the word “Bataille,” which means “battle.” This refers to the conflict that occurred between the French and the English on the same estate in 1453. Château Batailley is one of the oldest estates in Pauillac.

The Classified Growths of 1885

What is “The Classified Growths of 1885,” you ask? In a nutshell, a world’s fair was going to be held in Paris in 1855, known as the 1855 Paris Exposition (French: Exposition Universelle de 1855).

Emperor Napoleon III sought to showcase Bordeaux wines, which had already gained fame in the Middle Ages due to the marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine, whose union had opened the Bordeaux region to the English market and eventually the world.

So, the Emperor requested that the French wine merchants (known as négociants) create a list of the best Bordeaux wines. The wine négociants ranked Bordeaux wines based on each château’s reputation and trading prices, which were directly tied to the quality of the wines produced by each château at that time.

Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar

The wine merchants compiled a list ranking the châteaux as first, second, third, fourth, and fifth most important “growths.” Thus, the “Les Grands Crus classés en 1855” (English: The Classified Growths of 1885) was born, and it stuck.

The Classified Growths of 1885 included 58 châteaux: four were ranked as first growths, 12 as second growths, 14 as third growths, 11 as fourth growths, and 17 as fifth growths. Château Batailley was ranked as a first growth.

Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar bottles
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar bottles

Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé en 1855

My wife and I have visited many wineries over the years, but this one stands out as the best. We started our day with a tour of the winemaking operations, led by the winemaker. We were fortunate to witness the process of recovering and pressing the “cap of marc” to obtain press wine that is rich in aromatics and tannins. It was the first time we had seen this done.

After the tour, we enjoyed a tasting of Château Batailley’s wines. This was followed by a lovely lunch hosted by the winery’s president. I cannot express enough how kind and generous our hosts were. The entire day was magical, and I extend my heartfelt thanks to everyone involved.

Recovering and pressing the “cap of marc.”

During alcoholic fermentation of red wine in a tank, yeast converts sugar into alcohol, producing significant amounts of carbon dioxide (CO2). This gas pushes solid components, such as grape skins, pulp, and seeds, upward to the top of the tank, forming a layer known as the “cap of marc.”

Throughout alcoholic fermentation, the cap is pushed down into the fermenting grape juice at the winemaker’s discretion. The technique used to break up the floating fruit skins and solids and push them back into the wine is called “punching the cap.” This practice enhances the wine’s flavor and varies in intensity depending on the winemaker’s goals. Instead of punching down, a winemaker may choose to use the “pouring over method.”

After alcoholic fermentation and any additional maceration are complete, the wine is “racked,” meaning it is transferred from the tank to another tank or barrel. At this stage, the wine is known as free-run wine, which is the liquid that flows out of the tank by gravity when the bottom valve is opened after fermentation.

The "cap of marc" is being removed from the tank for pressing
The “cap of marc” is being removed from the tank for pressing

When the free-run wine is removed, the marc cap, which consists of all the solid parts, such as grape skins and seeds, settles to the bottom of the tank. A person then climbs into the tank to shovel out this material, which is fed into a press to extract the juice known as “must” (using manual, hydraulic, or pneumatic methods). This is called “press wine.”

Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine"
Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine.”

The “press wine” is collected, tasted, and typically stored in vats or barrels based on its quality. Normally, the winemaker combines the press wine with the free-run wine, depending on their objectives.

The remaining solids, known as pomace, are discarded or repurposed for other uses, such as producing spirits or fertilizers.

Tasting Note: Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

We sampled a variety of wines, all excellent. However, I want to highlight the Château Batailley “first wine,” which is the winery’s flagship bottling. This wine is a Pauillac AOC wine and has been classified as a 5th Growth since 1855, as discussed above.

Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017
Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Bordeaux 2017: According to the Wine Cellar Insider, “The 2017 Bordeaux vintage is notable for the significant frost that affected the region in April. The best wines from this vintage come from the northern Médoc, with quality diminishing further south. On the Right Bank, Pomerol outperforms Saint-Émilion. However, the 2017 Bordeaux vintage is characterized more by localized terroirs than by specific appellations. The gravel slopes in the northern Médoc, particularly in Pauillac, produced powerful wines.”

Visual examination: A dark purple color with a cherry-copper rim and a deep ruby hue.

Olfactory examination: Medium plus intensity with notes of ripe fruit, such as blackcurrants, followed by spicy, dark chocolate notes, and a whiff of tobacco.

Gustative examination: Elegant, yet fresh. Structured with richness and tannins, revealing its good bottle-ageing potential. The finish is well-balanced with silky tannins and a persistence that leaves a lingering hint of dark chocolate on the palate.

Grape varieties: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot

Serving Temperature: 16-18°C or 61 to 64°F

Aging potential: Drink now or in the next 10-20 years.

Reviews: 92/100 Wine Enthusiast

Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise (Rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce) served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries).

Summary: Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé since 1855, beautifully represents Pauillac, offering tremendous value for money with an average price of €33 or $38 on Wine-Searcher.

Note: The five châteaux from 1885 ranked as First Growths, or Premiers Crus Classés, are Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, and Haut-Brion.

Paid tasting of Chateau Margaux 2011 at Max Bordeaux, Wine Gallery & Cellar in Bordeaux, France
Paid tasting of Chateau Margaux 2011 at Max Bordeaux, Wine Gallery & Cellar in Bordeaux, France

Best Restaurants in Tours, France

My wife and I visited Tours, France, for the weekend to visit the Loire Valley wine region, specifically AOC Vouvray and AOC Chinon. We arrived on Thursday night and left Sunday morning. We stayed in the center of the old town. Below are the best restaurants in Tours that we had time to discover.

Le Petit Patrimoine

I picked restaurant Le Petit Patrimoine for our first night because I was searching for “local” Lorie Valley cuisine. They market themselves as “Country Food Restaurant,” so I expected and experienced akin to an Italian trattoria. Imagine my surprise when we walked in and discovered a chic, trendy Lorie Valley restaurant.

Le Petit Patrimoine is small but mighty. They make trendy cocktails that everyone seems to order. My wife and I were not interested in cocktails but in the wine. So after selecting our meal, we selected a Lorie Valley light red wine from Chinon. AOC Chinon reds are made with Cabernet Franc and come in various styles, ranging from light to medium to full-bodied. We also ordered a medium Chinon. AOC Chinon red, drank a glass, and took the rest back to our Airbnb.

To begin with, we shared the “Tourangelle,” a pie filled with confit pork belly and local goat cheese. For the main course, my wife chose the butternut risotto with chestnuts and tarragon oil, while I ordered the steak with local goat cheese sauce. Both dishes were excellent.

For dessert, we shared the local cheese plate, which included four goat cheeses from the Lorie Valley, see the picture below.

Le Petit Patrimoine's "Goat cheese plate," Tours-France
Le Petit Patrimoine’s “Goat cheese plate,” Tours-France

After the cheese plate, we ordered and shared the brioche perdue topped with cacahuète praline, vanilla, and macadamia nut ice cream, because it looked so delicious as it passed by our table.

Ambiance and vibe: 4
Wine by the glass options: 4
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 4
Dessert quality: 5

Bonvivant365 score: 21

Address: 58 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours
Phone: 02 47 66 05 81

Restaurant Les Arpents

Restaurant Les Arpents is not in Tours; it is in Amboise, but in my opinion, a must-try if you are in the area. They have a variety of menus from which to choose. My wife had the “Menu dijur” and I had the “Chef Surprise Menu.”

We each started with a glass of sparkling wine from the Lorie Valley and were served an aperitif: shortbread flavored with Breton curry and a red beetroot puree.

As an “amuse-bouche,” we were both served a tuna tartare with celery textures.

As a starter, I had squash in different textures (royal squash, spaghetti squash, squash pickles, and squash waffles).

Restaurant Les Arpents' "Roast hanger steak" served carrots, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, Amboise, France
Restaurant Les Arpents’ “Roast hanger steak” served carrots, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, Amboise, France

As a main course, I was served beef and carrots, including roast hanger steak, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, see the picture below.

And for dessert, our signature treat is our own lemon tart. See the picture below.

Ambiance and vibe: 4
Wine by the glass options: 4
Presentation and plating: 5
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 5

Bonvivant365 score: 23

Address: 5 Rue d’Orange, 37400 Amboise
Phone: 02 36 20 92 44
https://restaurant-lesarpents.fr/

Les Halles de Tours

After lunch, my wife went home to take a nap, while I continued my culinary adventure at Les Halles de Tours. Les Halles de Tours is similar to the other market halls we have visited in France, except for Rouen, which is essentially just a fish store, a cheese shop, a small butchery, and a vegetable shop all under one roof.

I “bellied up” to the “Le Comptoir Saint Kerber,” oyster bar, and ordered six number 3 oysters, as they have sizes 2 and 3 available, see the picture below. In France, oysters are ranked from 000 to 6— the smaller the number, the larger the oyster. Oysters labeled as threes are considered medium-sized.

The oysters are sourced from an oyster farm in Cancale, located in the Brittany region of France, near the stunning Mont-Saint-Michel. Cancale oysters are renowned for their distinct salty hazelnut flavor, see the picture below.

Le Comptoir Saint Kerber Cancale Oysters, Tours, France
Le Comptoir Saint Kerber Cancale Oysters, Tours, France

In France, oysters are typically served with fresh bread and butter to complement the dish. When I tasted the butter, I instantly recognized it as Bordier Butter, a culinary icon from Brittany.

The unique terroir of the region greatly influences the flavor profile of the cream used to produce this butter. I asked the shop owner where I could find this butter in Tours, and he directed me to a nearby cheese shop just a few meters away.

I decided to buy all they had—seven blocks of Bordier Butter. As I write this post, I’m currently carrying them back with me on the train to Bordeaux.

Bollywood Masala

My wife didn’t want to go out for dinner since we had a big lunch at “Restaurant Les Arpents,” so I wandered our street in search of something to take away.

Rue Colbert, originally built to connect the old and new parts of Tours, is lined with a variety of cuisines, including French, Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Syrian, and even Napoleonic pizza, among others.

While exploring, I discovered Bollywood Masala, a small Indian restaurant. As soon as I walked in, the enticing aroma caught my attention, and I decided to order two dishes: a shrimp curry and a lamb curry, along with basmati rice and garlic naan. I requested both curries to be made extra hot, see the picture below.

Bollywood Masala, "Shrimp curry," Tours, France
Bollywood Masala, “Shrimp curry,” Tours, France

When I brought the dishes home, they turned out to be just what I needed. Both curries were perfectly balanced with the right blend of spices, texture, and body. I drank Vouvary sparkling wine with the food, which provided a welcome change from French cuisine.


52 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours
02 47 66 01 10

La Table Ronde

We spent the entire day in Vouvray and Chinon, exploring these two wine appellations. It was a long day, and since we were leaving early this morning (I’m currently on the train from Tours to Bordeaux as I write this post), my wife preferred not to go far from our Airbnb. I found La Table Ronde located just 1 minute from our Airbnb front door. At the time of this post, Google gives it a rating of 4.8 and TripAdvisor a 4.7, so I decided to give it a try.

To start, we ordered the “Egg mayonnaise with miso served on a bed of tomato tartare and Iberian cebo ham.”

For the main course, my wife chose the “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle, accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce.” The yellow chicken gets its vibrant skin and meat color from being fed corn, whereas white chickens are typically fed wheat and cereals (French: Un poulet jaune ou un poulet blanc), see the picture below.

La Table Ronde's "Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle," accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce," Tours, France
La Table Ronde’s “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle,” accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce,” Tours, France

The dish was beautifully presented, see the picture above. However, the “truffles” turned out to be “truffle oil.” We couldn’t determine whether the truffle oil used was derived from real truffles or was synthetic. Most truffle oil is not actually made from truffles; instead, its primary ingredient is often a chemical created in a laboratory to mimic the aroma of truffles, specifically synthetic 2,4-dithiapentane. Regardless, the dish would have been better without the truffle oil.

I ordered the “Beef Filet à la Normande” for my main course, which was served with café de Paris butter, pepper sauce, homemade fries, and an arugula salad with Parmesan. Traditional Normandy beef comes from castrated male cattle of the Normandy breed, aged between 30 and 48 months. The steak was incredibly tender, the sauce was average, and the fries were soggy.

For dessert, we shared the chees plate.

Ambiance and vibe: 2
Wine by the glass options: 3
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 3
Dessert quality: 3

Bonvivant365 score: 15

Address: 126 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours
Phone: 02 47 64 25 88
https://latableronde37.eatbu.com/?lang=en

Le Bar à Vin CIVB Visit

My wife and I visited the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council (CIVB) in Bordeaux for a wine workshop and blind tasting. Afterward, we went to its wine bar, “Le Bar à Vin” (“The CIVB Wine Bar”). The experience was both educational and enjoyable.

Le Bar à Vin, Bordeaux, France
Le Bar à Vin, Bordeaux, France

From my visit, I learned that the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council:

  • Conducts essential studies to guide, regulate, and organize the Bordeaux wine market.
  • Aims to promote and enhance the demand for Bordeaux wines.
  • Monitors the quality of Bordeaux wines during the marketing phase and supports research efforts to adapt the vineyard and improve wine quality.

Additionally, the CVIB:

  • Publishes and online magazines titled “Bordeaux Magazine.”
  • Issues a CVIB newsletter concerning news about Bordeaux wines.
  • Runs a Wine School and workshops; English, too.
  • Supports an application called “OENO Bordeaux,” a web and mobile training application, and a “Bordeaux Immersive Map” application. Both are available as downloads from Google and Apple.
  • Wine Tunes” is an online music playlist designed for enjoying with a glass of wine.

It also hosts an online portal, “Bordeaux Connect,” dedicated solely to Bordeaux wine professionals. I am sure I am leaving something out, but you get the point. In terms of the Bordeaux wine industry, all roads lead to the CVIB.

Finally, and perhaps most importantly for everyone visiting this blog post, the CVIB runs a chic wine bar called “Le Bar à Vin,” where you can taste 30 Bordeaux wines by the glass at affordable prices. The selection is regularly updated to feature different Bordeaux wines.

Le Bar à Vin side seating area, Bordeaux, France
Le Bar à Vin side seating area, Bordeaux, France

My wife and I participated in a Bordeaux wine tasting workshop that included an excellent presentation on the Bordeaux Wine Region and a blind tasting of six Bourdeux wines. The experience was both educational and enjoyable.

If you are looking for a place to dine when visiting Bordeaux, see my post “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.”

Le Bar à Vin
Address: 3 Cr du 30 Juillet, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 00 43 47
https://baravin.bordeaux.com/

Best Glasses for Wine Tasting

My wife and I are in Bordeaux for five months to attend the CAFA Wine School (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). At school, we sample a lot of wines. Sometimes upwards of 16 classes a day. For comparative tastings or judging, the “SPIEGELAU Special Glasses Expert Tasting” is a workhorse. These machine-made crystalline glasses are perfect for tasting and evaluating wines. They are also easy to clean and durable, so I don’t worry about breaking them.

Additionally, they are suitable for enjoying everyday wines at home. However, for that special bottle of wine, particularly Bordeaux wines, since we are currently in Bordeaux, we prefer to use the Zalto glasses.

Zalto's DENK'ART "BORDEAUX," wine glass
Zalto’s DENK’ART “BORDEAUX,” wine glass

According to its website, the Zalto DENK’ART series glasses are handcrafted. It takes eight people to make one glass. The glasses are created freehand, except for the bowl, which is blown into a mold. Zalto glasses are elegant works of art. They are a pleasure to hold and feature a rim that feels almost invisible to the lips, enhancing the overall wine-drinking experience. Zalto offers a glass for major wines and the “UNIVERSAL,” a catch-all that works well across all wines. For Bordeaux wines, we use the Zalto “BORDEAUX” glass pictured above.