My wife and I are currently in Paris, France, where we’re studying at FERRANDI Paris, an international culinary arts school. In our free time, we love searching for great places to eat. According to Google, with around 45,000 restaurants in the city (half are probably kabab houses), it’s a tough challenge. Here are some of the best restaurants in Paris that we’ve tried and recommend.
Brigade du Tigre
Brigade du Tigre is a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant located in the 10th arrondissement.
I am not going to waste much time writing about this MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant. To sum up, Brigade du Tigre aims for French-Asian fusion but ends up feeling more like “expensive” asian street food. Overall, I thought it was pretty mediocre. I wanted asian street food, so I would go over to the 13th arrondissement.
Brigade du Tigre roast pork sushi, Paris, France
If I wanted a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand French-Asian fusion, I’d choose Double Dragon from the list below. Still, Brigade du Tigre was full of locals enjoying themselves, so it might be worth a try. Maybe you’ll have a different impression.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 15
Brigade du Tigre Address: 38 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010 Paris Phone: 01 45 81 51 56 https://www.brigadedutigre.fr/
COMER
COMER is a Mexican restaurant in Paris that comes highly recommended. I am dying to go since we love Mexican food, but they are not open for lunch on Saturdays, so I am trying to figure out how to make it happen. I am hoping that I will be able to make it work a holiday in May…
Ambiance, vibe, service: Wine by the glass options or pairing: Presentation and plating: Yummy quotient: Dessert quality:
Double Dragon is a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand bistro in the 11th arrondissement, created by two sisters, half Filipino, half French, whose focus is fusion cuisine with a Filipino twist.
We arrived for lunch, the door opened, and we grabbed a table. The ambiance and vibe are casual, almost like a coworking café. The service was friendly and efficient. The menu is small and à la carte.
We ordered plates to share: Pork simosa, chili chutney, crème fraîche; KFC: Korean fried chicken, Tuna katsu, smoked mayonnaise, teriyaki; Peanut lettuce with kare kare sauce; and a bowl of white rice. The dishes came out fast and were perfect for sharing. Everything was delicious.
Double Dragon’s KFC: Korean fried chicken, Paris, France
For wine, we both ordered a glass of the Noëlla Morantin, Stella Maris, Sauvignon Blanc, 2023, a Vin de France from the Lorie Valley made with 100% Sauvignon, with aromas of green apple, peach, and a hint of minerality. The palate was bright, with citrus notes and a touch of honey, balanced acidity, and a fresh, lingering finish that paired well with the dishes.
Even though we weren’t hungry, we decided to try the house specialty for dessert: a Bicho-Bicho, which is a cinnamon-rolled donut served with coconut ice cream. As Lawrence Garfield (Danny DeVito) said in the 1991 movie Other People’s Money, “Gotta be hungry to eat a donut? I never heard of such a thing.”
Double Dragon is a fun Bib Gourmand bistro in Paris. It is worth a visit if you are in the 11th and in the mood for fun, tasty Asian fusion.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Caillebotte is a Bib Gourmand bistro in the Pantruchoise family of restaurants in Paris’s 9th arrondissement. There are four: Pantruche, Caillebotte, Belle Maison, and Café Coucou.
We had high hopes since we had lunch at Pantruche (see below), which exceeded average by all measures. Caillebotte did not make the cut, and only reinforces the idea that we need to stop going to Paris Bib Gourmands (generally a waste of calories, time, and money in our experience) and instead go to at least Paris 1-star restaurants.
I have no time to write anymore about Caillebotte. It was just average in every way except for the service.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Imperial Treasure is a MICHELIN 1-star fine Chinese restaurant located in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. It is part of a larger group based in Singapore; the group operates more than 20 restaurants in Singapore, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Incheon, Tokyo, London, and Paris.
Ambiance, vibe, service: TDB Wine by the glass options or pairing: TDB Presentation and plating: TDB Yummy quotient: TDB Dessert quality: TDB
Restaurant Gaya is a MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. Pierre Gagnaire is a leader in the French fusion cuisine movement. “The term fusion cuisine, added to the Oxford English Dictionary in 2002, is defined as ‘a style of cookery which blends ingredients and methods of preparation from different countries, regions, or ethnic groups; food cooked in this style.”1
My wife ordered the single-option lunch menu that included white asparagus in broth with calamari as a starter. Seabream brandade as the main course, with chocolate, vanilla, and blackberry ice creams, blackberry sauce, and a biscuit for dessert. Typically, Brandade is an emulsion made from salt cod, olive oil, and usually potatoes. It is eaten in the winter with bread or potatoes. In this case, it was made with seabream.
Not wanting to order the same meal as my wife, I built my own à la carte menu. I began with the “Gaya #2 Oysters,” served with a slice of banana, sardine cream, and rye bread dentelles with seaweed butter. I paired the oysters with a “Jean Chartron 2023 Pouilly Fumé Tradition” from the Loire Valley. Gaya #2 Oysters is a vintage Pierre Gagnaire dish.
Gaya #2 Oysters,” Paris, France
For the starter, I selected “Jumbo shrimps poached in a white asparagus broth flavored with chervil and grey chanterelle mushrooms,” which I paired with a “Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles-Vignes, 2023.”
For the main course, I chose the “Medallion farm pork flavored with sage, red cabbage jam, crunchy parmesan cheese, and prune Eriang paste” paired with a “Domaine André Perret AOP Saint-Joseph red 2023.”
Instead of dessert, I opted for the cheese plate. I selected three cheeses. My favorite was the Fourme d’Ambert. Fourme d’Ambert is a French AOC cow’s milk cheese made in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, specifically in Auvergne. It is a member of the blue cheese family, with a balance between the blue and the white, making it the mildest. 2
Fourme d’Ambert is among the oldest cheeses in France. It is made from cow’s milk and has been produced since the Roman occupation, about 1,000 years ago, by people living in the green, volcanic Auvergne region. A clear image of Fourme d’Ambert, carved in stone at La Chaume, dates back to the 9th century.3
The cheese plate I paired with a”Domaine de la Rectorie” Pierre Gagnaire Banyuls.
From the way the staff greeted guests, it was clear that many regulars came for lunch. That seems to be the restaurant’s secret: the three-course lunch menu. In my opinion, the lunch menu offers the best experience, while the à la carte menu options feel overpriced and underwhelming.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Étoile is a MICHELIN 1-star restaurant located near the Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile, below a drugstore, which was kind of weird.
Once you get past that, it is a nice restaurant with a cool vibe, though touristy. If you do not know who the late Joël Robuchon is, you should. He was awarded the Meilleur Ouvrier de France in cuisine in 1976 and was named “Chef of the Century” by the guide Gault Millau in 1989. He held 31 Michelin Guide stars by the time of his death in 2018, the most any restaurateur has ever held.
The kitchen is completely open, allowing you to sit at the very large counter and see all the action unfold. There are a variety of menu options for all budgets. You can order the three-course menu, which is very affordable and allows you to try some of Chef Robuchon’s signature dishes.
If you go off-menu and order dishes that charge supplements, pair a glass of wine with every course, and end with cognac, as I did. You will receive the typical Paris one-star check, ranging from 400 to 500 euros.
I started with Robuchon’s signature foie gras and caviar entrée. It is totally old school. I was not a big fan, but I completely appreciated how innovative it must have been back in the day.
JOËL ROBUCHON’s LA CÔTE DE VEAU, roasted veal chops with thyme and sautéed mushrooms, Paris, France
For her main course, my wife had the LA JOUE DE PORC, Pork cheeks cooked in Madiran red wine with green gnocchi and chestnut. I ordered the LA CÔTE DE VEAU, Roasted veal chops with thyme and sautéed mushrooms. Both dishes came with Joel Robuchon’s signature pommes puree or mashed potatoes.
Joel Robuchon’s signature pommes puree or mashed potatoes, Paris, France
For dessert, we had the LE DESSERT PRÉFÉRÉ DE JOËL ROBUCHON, Coffee choux pastry, and the LE MANGO-MANGO, Exotic fruit jelly with mango mousse. The Coffee choux pastry was served with an underdone poached pear. That said, both desserts were excellent.
JOËL ROBUCHON LE MANGO-MANGO, Exotic fruit jelly with mango mousse, Paris, France
The wine-by-the-glass options are extensive and good, but pricey. I thought obnoxiously so. That did not deter me from starting with champagne, pairing a glass with each course, and ending with cognac with dessert. Much to my wife’s chagrin.
All the food was YUMMY, a signature of Roubucon’s style. Robuchon showed that highly technical French dishes could be produced at scale and consistently across multiple locations through an obsession with perfection, extensive training, and careful ingredient sourcing.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
La Méditerranée is a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant located in the 6th arrondissement. It is an old-school fish restaurant. It feels like you stepped back into the 1970s. It was an older crowd that seemed like regulars or at least had been there before.
I began with six oysters from Thau Lagoon in France, then tried the crab with celery relish, coriander, apple, and lime. Both dishes were excellent. I like the crap so much I will try to make it at home and serve it to guests.
La Méditerranée crab with celery relish, coriander, apple, and lime, Paris, France
For the main course, my wife chose the royal sea bream with rice and shellfish sauce, while I had the Mediterranean bouillabaisse. Her fish was excellent, and my bouillabaisse was very well prepared.
La Méditerranée’s bouillabaisse, Paris, France
The wines by the glass were fine, but nothing special. I had a Sauvignon Blanc with the oysters and a petite Chablis with the bouillabaisse, which is always tricky to match with wine. My wife had an Aligoté, probably from Burgundy. For dessert, I went with a cognac.
For dessert, I ordered the floating island, a classic French dessert made with soft meringue set atop crème anglaise. The meringue is baked in a water bath and can be served either at room temperature or chilled. This time, it was served chilled. I decided to try it since everyone around us seemed to be ordering it. Honestly, it was just okay. I’ve had better, and I’ve even made better myself.
I liked the restaurant. My wife was not a fan. But as I said, it is like I walked through a time portal and was transported back to the 1970s, to a fish restaurant on the East Coast of the U.S.A. with a Parisian look and feel.
The portions are huge, if that is your thing (It is not ours), and the food is good. If I were in the mood for fish, I would return.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 17
La Méditerranée Address: 2 Pl. de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris Phone: 01 43 26 02 30 La Méditerranée
Le Pantruche
Le Pantruche is a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand bistro located in the 9th arrondissement that focuses on classic French dishes with a modern touch. We arrived early and found a spot by the window. Le Pantruche has chic vintage décor and offers a typical bistro lunch menu, along with à la carte options.
My wife ordered the smaller menu, which included the “Main of the Day” plus a starter or dessert. For her starter, my wife chose the flatbread with marinated tempura cauliflower, wild herbs, Chimichurri sauce, and a daikon pickle. The main course of the day was yellow pollock served with carrots in three styles: jus, puree, and mousseline, topped with lightly fried chard and a Shishito pepper. Both dishes were excellent.
Le Pantruche’s “Marinated Tempura Cauliflower,” wild herbs, Chimichurri, a sauce, and Daikon pickle, Paris, France
Le Pantruche has a well-curated wine-by-the-glass list (French: vins au verre) written on the large mirror in the main room. For her starter, my wife paired a Domaine Saint Nicolas Les Chemins from the Loire Valley (45% Chenin, 45% Chardonnay, and 10% Grolleau gris). With the main course, she picked the “Famille Lieubeau, Bel Abord, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, 2023, a 100% Melon de Bourgogne.
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine is a sub-regional appellation located in the Loire Valley, southeast of Nantes. Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine is the most famous appellation of the Nantes vineyards. According to Google, it represents nearly 70% to 80% of all Muscadet produced in the region. Muscadet from Sèvre et Maine is a bit fuller-bodied than Muscadet from other regions, with more floral and mineral aromas. It paired nicely with the fish.
Le Pantruche’s “Wild Boar Loin,” served with free-range chicken supreme sauce, red cabbage with port, confit potatoes, Cévennes onions, and juniper berries, Paris, France
I chose the larger menu, which came with dessert. For my starter, I selected the Squid Tartare, served with red wine, cuttlefish ink sauce, candied celery, and seaweed oil.
Since it was hunting season, I picked the Wild Boar Loin for my main course, which was served medium (French: demi-anglais). It came with free-range chicken supreme sauce, red cabbage with port, confit potatoes, Cévennes onions or sweet onion, and a juniper berry sauce. Both dishes were excellent.
For dessert, we shared the “Grand Marnier Soufflé,” served with a salted caramel sauce. The soufflé, as a “chef’s dessert,” was well executed, light and fluffy as it should be. My wife, who is not a big fan of soufflé, could not stop raving about it. I paired the soufflé with a Hine V.S.O.P. Cognac.
Le Pantruche’s “Grand Marnier Soufflé,” served with a salted caramel sauce, Paris, France
Le Pantruche is a quintessential Bib Gourmand Paris bistro. The Ambiance, vibe, and service were well above average with a chic vintage décor. The wine-by-the-glass (French: vins au verre), eight in all, were written on the large mirror and were well curated, selected to pair with the starters and the mains. Presentation and plating were well executed and above what you would expect for a bistro. It was more gastronomic. The yummy quotient was above average, and the dessert quality far exceeded my expectations for a bistro. The price–performance ratio was excellent.
Le Pantruche is part of “The Pantruchoise” family of bistros and cafes located in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, which includes for MICHELIN Bib Gourmands: Pantruche, Caillebotte, Belle Maison, and Café Coucou.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 5
Le Petit Lutetia is a restaurant serving classic French cuisine. It’s just outside our Airbnb on Rue de Sèvres. We’ve eaten there three times in as many weeks and already want to go back.
Le Petit Lutetia has a vintage feel and the beautiful, harmonious cacophony of a Paris brasserie. You could scream out loud during your meal, and I do not think the table next to you could even hear you. The wine-by-the-glass options and the broader wine menu are as they should be.
Le Petit Lutetia’s sautéed frog legs with garlic and parsley, Paris, France
Across three visits, we have tried the following: Hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise; Whole fresh lettuce with olive oil & lemon; Sautéed frog legs with garlic and parsley; Rigatoni, creamy morel mushrooms; Galice beef Cecina, Homemade crispy duck confit and sautéed grenaille potatoes (new potatoes); Quatrehomme’s select cheese plate (Comté 24 mois, Bleu du Vercors, Tonnelet de la Tarentaise); Beef Wellington with red wine sauce, and Tarte tatin with minute homemade vanilla ice cream.
Le Petit Lutetia’s Beef Wellington, Paris, France
Every dish we have ever ordered has been well-plated and presented, and the desserts have been delightful. My wife still talks about Le Petit Lutetia Tarte Tatian and claims it is the best she has ever had (I think because it was served thin and flat like a crepe).
I like Le Petit Lutetia better than Benoît, a MICHELIN 1 Star, classic Paris bistro that I started going to back in the 1980s and now avoid because it has become too touristy for my taste.
Le Petit Lutetia does not have set menus, and ordering a meal requires one main course per person. It costs what you would expect for a high-end Paris brasserie. But for us, it is a very good value for money. Le Petit Lutetia has several locations.
Third visit to Le Petit Lutetia
We had a Friday off from school because we did not go on the Champaign trip. We are going to Champaign on a private tour in April. So we went for lunch again. Le Petit Lutetia never disappoints me.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 5
Les Canailles is a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand bistro in the 9th arrondissement that serves classic French dishes with a modern twist.
For starters, I ordered the Carpaccio de langue de bœuf, sauce gribiche, beef tongue carpaccio, gribiche sauce. My wife ordered salade de poireaux et Vittelote, saucisse de Morteau, espuma au Reblochon, salad of leeks and Vittelote cheese, Morteau sausage, Reblochon cheese espuma.
For her main course, my wife ordered the Poisson de pêche de petit bateau, garniture de saison, Small-boat caught fish, seasonal garnish, which was Pollock served with celeriac and carrot puree and a white wine sauce. I ordered the Tourtière, a duck meat pie with duck liver, served with a mushroom sauce.
Les Canailles’s small boat caught fish, served with celeriac, carrot puree, and a white wine sauce, Paris, France
For dessert, we shared the Soufflé au Grand Marnier, which I paired with a Cognac Grande Champagne Giraud VSOP (40°). Paul Giraud’s family estate is based in Bouteville, at the heart of the Grande Champagne region. Grande Champagne, recognized as the premier cru of Cognac, produces eaux-de-vie with exceptional finesse and aging potential. Its clay-limestone soils contribute to cognacs with distinctive floral and fruity aromas.
Les Canailles’ ambiance, vibe, and service were above average. The wine-by-the-glass options were excellent, allowing us to pair each course with an appropriate glass. Presentation and plating were average, as was the yummy quotient. Everything was very well presented and tasted fine, but average. I thought the Soufflé au Grand Marnier was better than the soufflé we had at Le Pantruche. My wife did not agree.
Les Canailles’ changes weekly, so check the website. It is a typical Paris Bib Gourmand with a 45-euro menu that includes an entrée, plat, and dessert. There is also a smaller menu, and you can order à la carte.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 4
Pilgrim is a MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in Paris’s 15th arrondissement. My wife and I had lunch there, and we highly recommend it.
Pilgrim’s pork rib back from Normandy served with Jerusalem artichoke and a date puree
Right now, Pilgrim serves a three-course lunch menu for 55 euros, and you can add extra courses if you want. There’s no à la carte menu, but it’s a great deal for a MICHELIN 1-star spot.
The way they serve wine is a bit different from what we’re used to. You can order a bottle, choose a set wine pairing for your meal, or order by the glass. For wine by the glass, you just pick red or white, and the waiter-sommelier brings you a suggestion from what’s open for you to try. There isn’t a list for you to choose from, but this approach worked well. Every wine they suggested paired perfectly with our food.
The desserts were another highlight. Pilgrim has its own pastry chef, and she stands out.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
Bonvivant365 score: 23
Restaurant Pilgrim Address: 8 Rue Nicolas Charlet, 75015 Paris Phone: 01 40 29 09 71 https://www.pilgrimparis.com/
Madame Brasserie
Madame Brasserie is a restaurant on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower. It was recommended to me by a FERRAND Paris Chef. He went with his wife. He thought the food was ok, but the overall experience was magical. So we are going to give it a try.
Madame Brasserie only lets you book one month in advance online. I want to go in May, when the weather is nice, and the trees have leaves. So, I need to wait to book…
SANCHUAN is a Chinese restaurant bordering the Chinatown neighborhood of Paris. The owner is from China’s Sichuan Province, and it shows in the food, which we found delicious, perfectly seasoned, not too spicy, and full of the complexities you would expect from Sichuan cuisine.
SANCHUAN’s “Scallion Oil Green Beans, Paris, France
We tried several starters that were very good, but now when we order the same three items: the “Scallion Oil Green Beans,” the “Beef Noodles with Fresh Chili” (which includes minced beef, fresh chili, and coriander), and the “Beef Dumpings in Rich Sichuan Broth” with coriander.
SANCHUAN’s “Beef Noodles with Fresh Chili,” with minced beef, fresh chili, and coriander, Paris, France
We wash it all down with glasses of Domaine des Ruaults SAUMUR, Chenin, 2023, a 100% Chenin Blanc with the aromas of white fruit and white flowers. It is light, fresh, and balanced, and pairs well with the food.
SANCHUAN’s “Beef Dumpings in Rich Sichuan Broth” with coriander, Paris, France
We enjoy SANCHUAN so much that we visit every month. Another great thing is that Pastificio Oronza is right across the street. It’s an Italian grocery store with fresh pasta, sauces, and other prepared foods for takeout, and with a very, very, very small counter to eat in. We always stock up on pasta and sauce to bring home.
Finally, SANCHUAN’s value for money is superb, but they do not have a website. You can only make a reservation by calling, which I highly recommend if you hope to get a seat.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: N/A ( SANCHUAN does not offer dessert)
Bonvivant365 score: 22
SANCHUAN Address: 5 rue des Fossés-Saint-Marcel, 75005 Paris Phone: 01 42 19 07 47
Trente-Trois
Trente-Trois is a MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in a luxury hotel in the Golden Triangle. The menu focuses on fresh Mediterranean flavors, with olive oil, herbs, vegetables, fish, and shellfish. That’s why I picked it. We’re a little tired of the usual heavy French food.
There are 107 MICHELIN 1-star restaurants in Paris. That’s right, 107. I started by trying Bib Gourmand restaurants, and so far, Le Pantruche is my favorite. But overall, we haven’t been impressed by the Bib Gourmand options in Paris. I’m not sure why. So now I’m looking at MICHELIN 1-star places. With so many to choose from, it feels random.
I asked the chefs at FERRANDI Paris, where we go to school, but their recommendations weren’t very enthusiastic. Most chefs think MICHELIN 1-star restaurants in Paris are overpriced and that they could make food just as good at home. This is basically how I think, but since we are in Paris for only 2 more months or so, we want to try as many restaurants as possible.
I picked Trente-Trois out of the 107 on the list because we like Mediterranean food and the Belle Époque-style dining room with wood-paneled walls. I love this kind of atmosphere. We’re going tomorrow, so we’ll see how it goes. Who knows what to expect?
We visited and had a great experience. We picked the lunch menu, which came with two glasses of wine, plus water, coffee, or tea. For each course—starter, main, and dessert—there were two options, so we ordered one of each to share and try everything.
The vegetarian entrees included confit watercress, both cooked and raw sliced carrots, bottarga, and ginger.
Trente-Trois both cooked and raw sliced carrots, bottarga, and ginger, Paris, France
For the main courses, there was a catch of the day—haddock—served lightly pearled with shellfish and parsnip, as well as roast farmhouse pork from le Perche, braised white asparagus, and a rich jus.
Trente Trois catch of the day—haddock—served lightly pearled with shellfish and parsnip, Paris, France
Boucherie du Perche is a butcher shop in Paris that sources its products from farmers in the Perche region. Perche is located in the heart of Normandy and covers several departments: Orne, Sarthe, Eure, and Eure-et-Loir. The area is also famous worldwide for its Percheron horses.
Trente-Trois’ roast farmhouse pork from Le Perche, braised white asparagus, and a rich jus, Paris, France
The desserts were: baba; poached pear with lightly whipped cream and orange blossom; Nicolas Berger Madagascar chocolate pecan nut; white coffee; and cocoa nibs.
Trente-Trois’ Nicolas Berger Madagascar chocolate pecan nut, white coffee, and cocoa nibs. Paris, France
There was also a farm-raised cheese platter, selected and matured by the Dubois house, as a dessert option. I missed this. If I had to do it again. I would have first ordered the cheese plate just to try it, and then enjoyed the desserts.
The entire experience was top shelf. I highly recommend lunch at Trente-Trois.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
Bonvivant365 is a retired couple that now writes about food, wine, and travel. They completed six months of training at a culinary and pastry school in southern France, followed by six months at a sommelier school in Bordeaux. They currently reside in Paris, where they are enrolled in the FERRANDI Paris Intensive Professional Program in French Cuisine. This four-month course focuses on technical skills in French cooking and examines the cultural heritage and creativity of the French culinary tradition.
Fusion cuisine. (2026, March 28). In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusion_cuisine ↩︎
(n.d.). AOP Fourme d’Ambert. Fourme-Ambert.com. Retrieved March 29, 2026, from https://www.fourme-ambert.com/fromage-aop/produit/. ↩︎
(n.d.). Fourme d’Ambert. The Word on Cheese Culture. Retrieved March 30, 2026, from https://culturecheesemag.com/cheese-library/Fourme-dAmbert ↩︎
Maison Nouvelle is a 2-star MICHELIN restaurant in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. It is led by Chef Philippe Etchebest and his wife, Dominique. Philippe Etchebest is a renowned chef and celebrity television personality, known for shows such as “Top Chef” and “Kitchen Nightmares.” He holds the prestigious title of “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” (MOF), which signifies that he is among the top chefs in the country and is recognized for his exceptional craftsmanship.
Maison Nouvelle, Chartrons, Bordeaux, France
Upon arriving at Maison Nouvelle, you ring the front doorbell as if you were visiting a friend’s house for lunch. The greeting is warm and friendly. The atmosphere is warm and inviting. Maison Nouvelle exudes a quiet luxury that emphasizes quality and simplicity. We felt right at home.
Maison Nouvelle’s bar, Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle bar seating area, Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle, dining area, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The communication before lunch was impressive. I was able to convey my wife’s preferences to the chef, who adapted the menu accordingly. Specifically, she prefers beef cooked medium well.
My wife began with a glass of “Tradition Rosé Brute, Fernand Lemaire, Champagne. I began with a glass of Valérie & Gaël Dupont’s “Heureuse Rencontre” Extra Brut Champagne. All of which paired excellently with the small snacks we were served.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Amuse-bouche,” Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle’s fruit gel, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
We were then served “Freshwater Squash.” Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, and Saint-Émilion soy sauce.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Freshwater Squash,” featuring Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, and Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux.Maison Nouvelle’s “Freshwater Squash,” Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Next “Shell and Root,” Seared scallops, tuberous chervil, hazelnut milk yogurt.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Shell and Root,” Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle’s knives, Chartrons, Bordeaux
I was served the “Grape Harvester Pigeon,” Roast pigeon on the breast, porcini mushrooms, mustard grapes, Merlot reduction jus.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Grape Harvester Pigeon”: roasted pigeon breast with porcini mushrooms, mustard grapes, and Merlot reduction jus.
Since the 1990s, I have dined at numerous MICHELIN-starred restaurants around the world. However, my lunch at Maison Nouvelle was one of the most impressive experiences I have ever had, earning a perfect Bonvivat365 rating of 25.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
My wife and I live in Bordeaux, where we are attending wine school. We decided to visit Soléna Restaurant for lunch, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Bordeaux run by chef Victor Ostronzec.
Soléna Restaurant, Bordeaux, France
We received a warm and friendly welcome. The space is small, featuring a window (limited) into the kitchen, and is well-organized, filled with natural colors that evoke a sense of relaxation and serenity, which creates a sense of isolation from the distractions of the outside world. When all guests arrive, the atmosphere becomes lively and energetic, creating a vibrant ambiance.
The MICHELIN-starred restaurant offers multiple menus, with options varying by day and time. We chose the five-course “Balande Par Chez Nous” (English: “Walk Around Our Place”) with wine pairing. It’s important to note that all menus are labeled as “Chef’s Surprise,” so you won’t know what you will be served. However, the staff collects all necessary information to be aware of any allergies or dietary preferences so that the chef can adapt your experience accordingly.
While some people may not enjoy the “Chef’s Surprise” concept, we appreciate it because it encourages us to “taste outside the box.” As someone famously once said, “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.”
As an apéritif, I ordered the “Cocktail Maison,” which was a Moscow Mule made with ginger beer and vodka, as pictured below. My wife passed on the apéritif.
Soléna Restaurant’s Cocktail Maison,” a Moscow Mule made with ginger beer and vodka, Bordeaux, France
We were served an amuse-bouche featuring a variety of delightful bites: a blackcurrant macaron filled with a hint of foie gras, a strudel filled with Mimolette cheese, steamed bread stuffed with smoked anchovies, crispy pistachio paired with sorrel, cereal, and whelks garnished with shiso and mayonnaise, as shown below. Each was YUMMY.
Soléna Restaurant’s blackcurrant macaron bites filled with a hint of foie gras and strudel bites filled with Mimolette cheeseSoléna Restaurant’s strudel filled with Mimolette cheese and steamed bread stuffed with smoked anchovies, Bordeaux, FranceSoléna Restaurant’s whelks garnished with shiso and mayonnaise, Bordeaux, France
Following the amuse-bouche, we were served two slices of homemade brioche and an olive tasting of Le Carre Des Huiles’ PDO olive oil from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence, as pictured below.
Soléna Restaurant’s olive tasting of Le Carre Des Huiles’ PDO olive oil from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence, Bordeaux, France
The starter consisted of scallops accompanied by a watercress coulis and smoked cauliflower, as shown in the picture below. Soléna paired the palate with Domaine Charles Joguet, Les Petites Roches Blanc, 2024.
Soléna Restaurant’s scallops, accompanied by a watercress coulis and smoked cauliflower, Bordeaux, France
The main course began with a fish dish: red mullet, perfectly cooked and served with carrots and a clear shiso bone broth, as shown in the picture below. Soléna paired the plate with Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rosé 2023, a classic Bandol rosé.
Soléna Restaurant’s red mullet, perfectly cooked and served with carrots and a clear shiso bone broth, Bordeaux, France
The next dish was venison ravioli, accompanied by black trumpet mushroom tapenade in a black pepper emulsion, as pictured below. Soléna paired the plate with a Château La Brande, Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux 2019, featuring dark fruits that lingered on the palate, complementing the earthy dish well.
Soléna Restaurant’s ravioli accompanied by black trumpet mushroom tapenade in a black pepper emulsion, Bordeaux, France
We were served two desserts. The first was Lovita plum served with ginger and Koji ice cream, as shown in the picture below.
Soléna Restaurant’s Lovita plum served with ginger and Koji ice cream, Bordeaux, France
The second dessert was dark chocolate with pecans, accompanied by yogurt sorbet, as depicted in the image below. Soléna paired the plate with a Maury Grenat, a benchmark in Roussillon, made from 100% Grenache Noir, which was a perfect complement to the chef’s chocolate dessert.
Soléna Restaurant’s dark chocolate filled with pecans and yogurt sorbet, Bordeaux, France
In summary, we found Soléna’s ambiance, vibe, and service to be above average. Overall, the wine pairing was well-executed, but we felt the first wine was too acidic to complement the scallop dish. The last three wines were enjoyable but not particularly surprising so that we would categorize them as average. If given the chance to do it again, we would choose our own glasses of wine or opt to buy a bottle. The presentation and plating were mixed, with some aspects being average and others exceeding expectations. The yummy quotient was high, while the desserts, although simple, were above average.
Soléna Restaurant is a fine MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in Bordeaux that is worth trying. We are glad that we did.
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
My wife and I visited Tours, France, for the weekend to visit the Loire Valley wine region, specifically AOC Vouvray and AOC Chinon. We arrived on Thursday night and left Sunday morning. We stayed in the center of the old town. Below are the best restaurants in Tours that we had time to discover.
Le Petit Patrimoine
I picked restaurant Le Petit Patrimoine for our first night because I was searching for “local” Lorie Valley cuisine. They market themselves as “Country Food Restaurant,” so I expected and experienced akin to an Italian trattoria. Imagine my surprise when we walked in and discovered a chic, trendy Lorie Valley restaurant.
Le Petit Patrimoine is small but mighty. They make trendy cocktails that everyone seems to order. My wife and I were not interested in cocktails but in the wine. So after selecting our meal, we selected a Lorie Valley light red wine from Chinon. AOC Chinon reds are made with Cabernet Franc and come in various styles, ranging from light to medium to full-bodied. We also ordered a medium Chinon. AOC Chinon red, drank a glass, and took the rest back to our Airbnb.
To begin with, we shared the “Tourangelle,” a pie filled with confit pork belly and local goat cheese. For the main course, my wife chose the butternut risotto with chestnuts and tarragon oil, while I ordered the steak with local goat cheese sauce. Both dishes were excellent.
For dessert, we shared the local cheese plate, which included four goat cheeses from the Lorie Valley, see the picture below.
Le Petit Patrimoine’s “Goat cheese plate,” Tours-France
After the cheese plate, we ordered and shared the brioche perdue topped with cacahuète praline, vanilla, and macadamia nut ice cream, because it looked so delicious as it passed by our table.
Ambiance and vibe: 4 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 5
Restaurant Les Arpents is not in Tours; it is in Amboise, but in my opinion, a must-try if you are in the area. They have a variety of menus from which to choose. My wife had the “Menu dijur” and I had the “Chef Surprise Menu.”
We each started with a glass of sparkling wine from the Lorie Valley and were served an aperitif: shortbread flavored with Breton curry and a red beetroot puree.
As an “amuse-bouche,” we were both served a tuna tartare with celery textures.
As a starter, I had squash in different textures (royal squash, spaghetti squash, squash pickles, and squash waffles).
Restaurant Les Arpents’ “Roast hanger steak” served carrots, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, Amboise, France
As a main course, I was served beef and carrots, including roast hanger steak, confit beef cheek, confit carrots, and creamy carrot sauce, see the picture below.
And for dessert, our signature treat is our own lemon tart. See the picture below.
Ambiance and vibe: 4 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
After lunch, my wife went home to take a nap, while I continued my culinary adventure at Les Halles de Tours. Les Halles de Tours is similar to the other market halls we have visited in France, except for Rouen, which is essentially just a fish store, a cheese shop, a small butchery, and a vegetable shop all under one roof.
I “bellied up” to the “Le Comptoir Saint Kerber,” oyster bar, and ordered six number 3 oysters, as they have sizes 2 and 3 available, see the picture below. In France, oysters are ranked from 000 to 6— the smaller the number, the larger the oyster. Oysters labeled as threes are considered medium-sized.
The oysters are sourced from an oyster farm in Cancale, located in the Brittany region of France, near the stunning Mont-Saint-Michel. Cancale oysters are renowned for their distinct salty hazelnut flavor, see the picture below.
Le Comptoir Saint Kerber Cancale Oysters, Tours, France
In France, oysters are typically served with fresh bread and butter to complement the dish. When I tasted the butter, I instantly recognized it as Bordier Butter, a culinary icon from Brittany.
The unique terroir of the region greatly influences the flavor profile of the cream used to produce this butter. I asked the shop owner where I could find this butter in Tours, and he directed me to a nearby cheese shop just a few meters away.
I decided to buy all they had—seven blocks of Bordier Butter. As I write this post, I’m currently carrying them back with me on the train to Bordeaux.
Bollywood Masala
My wife didn’t want to go out for dinner since we had a big lunch at “Restaurant Les Arpents,” so I wandered our street in search of something to take away.
Rue Colbert, originally built to connect the old and new parts of Tours, is lined with a variety of cuisines, including French, Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Syrian, and even Napoleonic pizza, among others.
While exploring, I discovered Bollywood Masala, a small Indian restaurant. As soon as I walked in, the enticing aroma caught my attention, and I decided to order two dishes: a shrimp curry and a lamb curry, along with basmati rice and garlic naan. I requested both curries to be made extra hot, see the picture below.
Bollywood Masala, “Shrimp curry,” Tours, France
When I brought the dishes home, they turned out to be just what I needed. Both curries were perfectly balanced with the right blend of spices, texture, and body. I drank Vouvary sparkling wine with the food, which provided a welcome change from French cuisine.
52 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours 02 47 66 01 10
La Table Ronde
We spent the entire day in Vouvray and Chinon, exploring these two wine appellations. It was a long day, and since we were leaving early this morning (I’m currently on the train from Tours to Bordeaux as I write this post), my wife preferred not to go far from our Airbnb. I found La Table Ronde located just 1 minute from our Airbnb front door. At the time of this post, Google gives it a rating of 4.8 and TripAdvisor a 4.7, so I decided to give it a try.
To start, we ordered the “Egg mayonnaise with miso served on a bed of tomato tartare and Iberian cebo ham.”
For the main course, my wife chose the “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle, accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce.” The yellow chicken gets its vibrant skin and meat color from being fed corn, whereas white chickens are typically fed wheat and cereals (French: Un poulet jaune ou un poulet blanc), see the picture below.
La Table Ronde’s “Yellow chicken in puff pastry with truffle,” accompanied by peas, chanterelles, baby potatoes, and morel sauce,” Tours, France
The dish was beautifully presented, see the picture above. However, the “truffles” turned out to be “truffle oil.” We couldn’t determine whether the truffle oil used was derived from real truffles or was synthetic. Most truffle oil is not actually made from truffles; instead, its primary ingredient is often a chemical created in a laboratory to mimic the aroma of truffles, specifically synthetic 2,4-dithiapentane. Regardless, the dish would have been better without the truffle oil.
I ordered the “Beef Filet à la Normande” for my main course, which was served with café de Paris butter, pepper sauce, homemade fries, and an arugula salad with Parmesan. Traditional Normandy beef comes from castrated male cattle of the Normandy breed, aged between 30 and 48 months. The steak was incredibly tender, the sauce was average, and the fries were soggy.
For dessert, we shared the chees plate.
Ambiance and vibe: 2 Wine by the glass options: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
My wife and I are attending wine school in Bordeaux. We decided to stay in the Chartrons neighborhood for nearly six months because it’s only a 10-minute walk to the school.
I explored every nook and cranny, searching for the best restaurants in Chatrons and places to eat, which I outline below, and end with things to do.
Steeples of “Église Saint Louis des Chartrons” as seen from my Airbnb living room window
As I write this, it’s 9 AM, and the bells of Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons, located just a block from our Airbnb, are ringing to signal the start of Mass.
Chartrons, once the hub of the wine trade in Bordeaux, is now a family-friendly district filled with artisan workshops, boutiques, cafes, and rich history, especially along Rue Notre-Dame. We’re located at the corner of Rue Notre-Dame and Rue Latour, right in the heart of the neighborhood.
On a weekday morning, as we head to school around 8:45 AM, the atmosphere is magical. It reminds me of the scene in “My Fair Lady,” where the market slowly comes to life. The streets are bustling with people as they begin their day, heading to school or work. The locals in Chartrons are friendly, and I often stroll from shop to shop, engaging with the store owners. This neighborhood has become one of my favorite places to live, and I will miss it.
Basque Taco, Marché des Quais
The “Basque taco stand) (as I call it) can be found at the Marché des Quais, also known as the Chartrons Quays Market, which is open from early Sunday morning until early afternoon. The Quays is the waterfront walkway along the Garonne River. The market begins approximately at the intersection of Rue Latour and Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux. It is located just across the street in the Garonne River Run area, stretching a few blocks toward the Cité du Vin.
The stand serves “Basque Taco,” or “Talos con Chistorra” (which means Corn Tortillas with Sausage in English). It’s a Navarran corn tortilla filled with sausage, cheese, and, I think, onions and peppers. They taste amazing.
French Birria Tacos, called Taloa, a traditional Basque wrap made from corn flour (aka masa harina) filled with sausage, cheese, onions, and peppers, Chartrons, Bordeaux
UPDATE: My wife went to the market today and brought home a “Talos con Chistorra” for us to share and an entree before we made lunch. I cut it in half and plated it so you could get a better look. It was delicious even as a takeaway.
Bistro, Bistrot Maurice
Bistrot Maurice is just a few blocks from where we go to wine school. We walk by it all the time. Today we decided to give it a try. I am sure glad we did. It was, hands down, one of the best bistro experiences I have had in France since we arrived in August 2024.
Bistro Maurice, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Bistro Maurice is a classic French bistro serving traditional dishes in a relaxed, cozy atmosphere. A sidewalk terrace is available, along with indoor seating. The first room is small and quintessentially bistro-like, with a few tables and the kitchen, where all the action takes place. The second room is a newly designed, beautifully appointed dining area located in the adjacent hotel. We opted to sit at the counter in the first room, which lets you look directly into the kitchen, creating a chef’s table experience.
Bistro Maurice offers three typical lunch menu options: a starter and main course, a main course and dessert, or a starter, main course, and dessert. My wife chose the main course and dessert. I chose the starter, main course, and dessert. For my starter, I chose the mussels, straw potatoes, and celery stalks (see the picture below), paired with a white Bordeaux, which complemented the dish nicely.
Bistro Maurice’s mussels, straw potatoes, and celery stalks, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For her main course, my wife chose “Maurice’s Caesar Salad,” a giant, tasty Caesar salad with a fried chicken filet that she could eat every day for lunch (see the picture below).
Bistro Maurice’s “Caesar Salad,” with chicken, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For my main course, I chose the half duck breast, served with sweet potato puree and figs. The duck was cooked to perfection, see the picture below. I paired it with a glass of red wine from the Médoc. You can’t get a more classic French bistro dish.
Bistro Maurice’s half duck breast, served with sweet potato puree and figs, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Next came the cheese plate, as shown in the picture below, which I paired with a Chardonnay from Marcon.
The dessert was a millefeuille of apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, which I paired with a Tawny port. Millefeuille, which translates to “a thousand leaves,” refers to the layers of puff pastry stacked between various fillings. This dessert is also commonly known as a Napoleon or custard slice. Bistro Maurice’s millefeuille was served more like a custard slice, with a filling between two puff pastry layers, as shown in the picture below.
Bistro-Maurice’s millefeuille made with apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The dessert was a millefeuille made with apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, which I paired with a Tawny Port. Millefeuille, which translates to “a thousand leaves,” refers to the layers of puff pastry that are stacked with various fillings. This dessert is also commonly known as a Napoleon or custard slice. At Bistro Maurice, the millefeuille resembled a custard slice more than a traditional version, featuring filling between two layers of puff pastry and “icing,” as shown in the picture below. It was perfect.
We had a fantastic experience at Bistro Maurice. The atmosphere, ambiance, and service were all excellent. From the moment we entered, the staff were warm, friendly, and accommodating, making us feel right at home. The wine options and the staff’s suggestions, available by the glass, were perfect. The presentation and plating had a lovely bistro feel. The food was delicious—Paul Bocuse would be proud. The dessert was creative and exceeded our expectations for a bistro.
Cafe Maruice, second visit
Wine school ended early today. My wife suggested we go back to Bistro Maurice. Well, you do not have to ask me twice. So we raced to Bisto Maurice and got our favorite counter spot overlooking the small, busy kitchen. It was better than the first time. Here is what we had:
Bistro Maurice’s “Cream of eek soup,” fresh goat cheese, golden garlic croutons and capers, Chartrons, BordeauxBistrot Maurice’s “Winter salad,” curly endive, bacon, pear, and sesame, Chartrons, BordeauxBistro Maurice’s “Fish of the Day,” lieu noir (black pollack), roasted butternut squash, lamb’s lettuce & beurre blanc, Chartrons, BordeauxBistrot Maurice’s “Veal flank steak,” split peas, pistachios & green peppercorn jus, Chartrons, BordeauxBistro Maurice’s “Pomelo,” Italian meringue and fennel crumble, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Bistro rating:
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
My wife and I went to Luna in Chartrons for lunch, a small bistro that offers bistronomic cuisine, a style that combines traditional bistro elements with high-end gastronomy. The menu features quality dishes made from fresh, local ingredients while maintaining the relaxed, friendly atmosphere typical of a bistro. It was a wonderful dining experience.
Luna’s amuse-bouche—a single, bite-sized hors d’œuvre consisting of slow-cooked meringue filled with a flavorful beetroot purée, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The wine-by-the-glass menu at Luna is impressive for a small bistro, which allowed me to work with the front-of-house staff to find the perfect wine pairing for my meal while exploring selections from all over France. My wife decided not to have wine during lunch because she needed to return to wine school.
As an aperitif, I began with Château Lauduc Crémant Lauduc Rosé Pétillant, a sparkling wine made from Cabernet Franc, produced in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, which paired well with the amuse-bouche we were served—a single, bite-sized hors d’œuvre consisting of slow-cooked meringue filled with a flavorful beetroot purée.
For her starter, my wife ordered the “Bluefin Tuna,” served Tataki-style, with a furikake condiment and a radish salad, as pictured below.
Luna’s “Bluefin tuna” served Tataki-style with furikake condiment, radish salad, Chartrons, Bordeaux
I chose the “Perfect Egg,” served with a green vegetable ragout, potato foam, and peanuts (pictured below), paired with Domaine des Allegrets Côtes de Duras Blanc, a Sauvignon Blanc from the Southwest France wine region.
Luna’s “Perfect Egg,” served with a green vegetable ragout, potato foam, and peanuts, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For the main course, I had the “Pork Belly,” served with miso eggplant, fig condiment, and pork jus (pictured below), paired with Domaine Vial-Magneres Le Petit Couscouril rouge, primarily made from Grenache Noir and blended with Syrah and Carignan.
Luna’s “Pork belly,” served with miso eggplant, fig condiment, and pork jus, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Domaine Vial-Magnères is a family-owned property located on the seaside in the communes of Banyuls and Port-Vendre, France. The wine had a brilliant garnet color, with a nose of black fruit aromas, including strawberry, cherry, and raspberry, along with hints of plum and fig. The spicy character of Grenache Noir was evident on the palate, with a balanced, persistent finish. It paired well with the pork belly.
My wife had the “Market Catch,” which consisted of roasted hake served with pea purée and a lemongrass-coconut broth, pictured below.
Luna’s market catch, roasted hake served with pea purée and a lemongrass-coconut broth, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For dessert, we shared a “Williams pear” with orange zest Bavarian cream, accompanied by a ladyfinger biscuit and vanilla ice cream (see picture below), paired with Domaine Semper Vintage Maury, and followed by Pâtes de Fruits—a well-executed “chef’s dessert.”
Luna’s Williams pear with orange zest Bavarian cream, accompanied by a ladyfinger biscuit and vanilla ice cream
Finally, I am puzzled as to why Luna is not recognized as a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant. In our opinion, it is on par with Racines by Daniel Gallacher, as well as the more gastronomic Panaille or Kedem, all of which are MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants we visited in Bordeaux, see my post “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.”
We enjoyed our experience at Luna so much that when my wife’s long-time friend visits us in December, we plan to take her there as well. If you’re considering a visit, be sure to use the website to make a reservation. Luna is small and always packed.
Luna second visit
We liked Luna so much that when a friend visited us in Chartrons, we brought them there for dinner. Some dishes were the same, but there were plenty of new ones too. I won’t list everything, but the meal was just as good as our first visit, maybe even better.
Luna’s “Cocktail of the moment,” Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Crab” in radish cannelloni, guacamole, and citrus gel, Chartrons, Bordeaux.Luna’s “Miso butter,” Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s Pork belly and gnocchi with cheese, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Fresh fish from the fish market,” roast, fennel puree, and grilled bulb, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Périgord Duck,” duck breast, potato mille-feuille, and Yakiniku poultry jus, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Hazelnut Financier,” crispy tuile, sabayon, and coffee ice cream, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s petit fours, Chartrons, Bordeaux
MICHLINE Selected Restaurants rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Typically, the French eat a tartine (a slice of bread with butter and jam), a croissant, or a pain au chocolat. Not so if you visit Au Couvent in Chartrons, a breakfast and brunch spot just around the corner from Eglise St Louis des Chartrons, Bordeaux.
At Au Couvent, you can find classic, fresh French pastries like chocolatine or croissants. Still, more FUN are Au Couvent’s “American” breakfast and brunch foods, such as “Fluffy Pancakes,” with all sorts of yummy toppings, and, as I had, Scrambled “Eggs with Parmesan and Chives,” and “Avocado Toast” with sauce vierge and pomegranate; with a side of bacon as a topping and a cup of “Café allongé.”
Au Couvent’s “Café allongé,” or “café lungo” (meaning “long” in Italian),” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Café allongé, which Italians call “café lungo” (meaning “long”), is a basic coffee drink that falls between an espresso and a regular American coffee. It is made by forcing more water through the ground coffee than a standard espresso. I find a café allongé richer and creamier than American coffee or an “Americano,” that is simply express with water added.
Au Couvent’s “Scramble Eggs with Parmesan and Chives,” Chartrons, BordeauxAu Couvent’s. “Avocado Toast,” sauce vierge, and pomegranate, topped with bacon. Chartrons, Bordeaux
Au Couvent serves breakfast on most weekdays, followed by brunch. On weekends, they go all out with more elaborate brunch choices. One highlight is their Classic Hot Dog, which comes on a brioche bun with Toulouse sausage (IGP), cheddar cheese, fried onions, arugula, paprika mayonnaise, and ketchup, which I plan to try when I have a chance.
Au Couvent’s atmosphere, vibe, and service are terrific. The food is fun and yummy. It is less than a block from where I live in Chartrons, so I plan to go more often. I highly recommend Au Couvent for a “Breakfast or Brunch of Champions.”
Paola in Chartrons is just one block from our Airbnb. We watched them renovate the space and open it two weeks ago. Paola is a small bakery full of personality and potential. My wife absolutely loves Paola’s “Brookie,” a combination of a chocolate chip cookie and a brownie.
Paola’s “Brookie,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Unlike the classic brookie made in a baking pan and cut into squares, Paola’s “brookie is shaped like a cookie” (I rhymed—LOL).
If you visit Chartrons, stopping by Paola and trying their brookie or other delights is fun.
Les Halles Bacalan is a market located in Chartrons, Bordeaux, featuring over 20 different food stalls. Some stalls offer counters with seating, while others do not. Additionally, tables and chairs are available throughout both the indoor and outdoor areas, where you can enjoy your meal. The concept is straightforward: you can choose any food you like and sit in any available spot in the open seating area.
One of our favorite stalls is Les Requins Marteaux, which specializes in seafood and offers a variety of delicious options. One of my personal favorites is their “Shrimp and Avocado Salad,” as shown in the picture below.
Les Requins Marteaux “Shrimp and Avocado Salad,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
We also love Les Requins Marteaux razor clams, pictured below.
Les Requins Marteaux’s razor clams, Chartrons, Bordeaux
And anchovies, pictured below.
Les Requins Marteaux’s anchovies, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Empanada, Au Bon Goût Latino
I was walking around Chartrons, searching for plates to eat that I hadn’t tried before. I stumbled upon Au Bon Goût Latino, a food truck located behind the “Place Paul Doumer” tram stop. I was excited and curious. I enjoy food trucks and have a particular fondness for Latin American cuisine, so I stopped by to give it a try.
The USA has many food trucks, and I can tell you that some have a more overall appealing vibe than others. From the start, I could tell that Au Bon Goût Latino was a quality food truck akin to those found on the North Shore of Hawaii. It was well-designed, open, and clean.
Au Bon Goût Latino specializes in Peruvian empanadas and arepas, among other offerings. Empanadas are golden-brown Latin American pastries filled with seasoned beef, chicken, pork, and other ingredients- think portable American pot pies. In the Au Bon Goût Latino case, they also feature spinach, tuna, and lasagna.
That’s right—Au Bon Goût Latino makes empanadas filled with classic lasagna, which includes spicy minced meat, mixed with ham, pasta, and tomato, and béchamel sauce, as shown in the picture below.
Au Bon Goût Latino “Lasagna Empanada,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I have tried many empanadas in the past, but have often been disappointed. Generally, the pastry-to-filling ratio is unbalanced, resulting in an insufficient amount of filling. However, that is not the case with Au Bon Goût Latino’s empanadas, which are generously filled, resulting in a perfect balance between the dough and filling. They are delicious.
I had to try their lasagna empanada (pictured above) because it was a novel and creative concept. I took home Au Bon Goût Latino’s Chicken Aji Empanada. This Peruvian classic is filled with shredded chicken simmered in a creamy ají amarillo (a non-spicy sauce), walnuts, bread, and spices, and comes with a garlic-and-cilantro sauce on the side.
Finally, the staff operating the truck are lovely, friendly, and accommodating, which creates a perfect experience. So, if you are walking around Chartrons, seek out Au Bon Goût Latino and buy an empanada, an arepa, or a few to try. You will be glad that you did.
UPDATE: I found Au Bon Goût Latino behind the Chartrons Place Paul Doumer tram stop, but they are not there very often. Most of the time, you can find them at the corner of Cr de la Martinique and Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux. It is located just across the street in the Garonne River Run area.
Who doesn’t love cake? La Maison de Blanche makes the best chiffon cakes I have ever tasted, even better than those I made in pastry school. Each is perfect for eating alone or for sharing, as pictured below.
La Maison de Blanche’s “Sunflower,” Chartrons, Bordeaux.
I found the “Sunflower” particularly noteworthy, as I have learned to make my own version in pastry school. However, my genoise wasn’t as light and airy as I’d hoped. When I inquired about their secret, I was told it relates to the ratio of whipped egg whites to egg yolks and the oven temperature, but the specific details were not shared. La Maison de Blanche also offers crowd-pleasers like “Snickers” and “Tiramisu,” among others.
La Maison de Blanche also makes ” Mon cœur.” Mon cœur literally means “my heart,” in French, an affectionate term to use with a loved one. In the “pastry world,” it is a cold pastry shaped like a heart. La Maison de Blanche also makes an excellent “Mon coeur.”
La Maison de Blanche’s “Mon Cœur,” Chartrons, Bordeaux.
La Maison de Blanche features a counter and offers tables, allowing you to enjoy your cake on-site with a beverage or take it to go.
La Maison de Blanche Address: 37 Rue Camille Godard, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 07 69 56 55 92 https://lamaisondeblanche.com/
Chicken Ceaser Salad, Molly Malones
Molly Malone’s features tables both inside and out, offering attentive, efficient service and well-portioned food. I often order the “Fish and Chips,” while my wife usually chooses the “Chicken Caesar Salad,” which, in my opinion, is the best Caesar salad we have found in France (and we have been in France for over a year and traveled all over), see the picture below.
Molly Malone’s “Chicken Caesar Salad,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I’m not saying it’s gourmet, but I would describe it as a classic American Caesar salad—if that’s even a thing. Molly’s offers more than just Caesar salad. I’ve also tried the fish and chips and the steak with fries; both were just as they should be. I plan to sample more dishes for lunch soon.
Another good option is Molly’s “Chicken Wrap,” as shown below. It resembles a Caesar salad but is served in a slightly toasted wrap and accompanied by fries.
Chez Dupont, a typical French Bistro, is located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, and is just 20 meters to the left of my front door. They have an indoor area and a sidewalk that, on a good day, allow you to enjoy the vibe of Chartons.
Chez Dupont, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For our starter, we shared the “Grilled Artichoke Flower,” which featured a grilled artichoke served with Iberian ham and shavings of fresh duck foie gras, all accompanied by a duck jus reduced with old wine vinegar, as shown in the picture below. I really enjoyed it and found it to be a creative dish that I would recreate and serve to guests at my home.
Chez Dupont “Grilled Artichoke Flower,” a grilled artichoke adorned by Iberian ham and shavings of fresh duck foie gras, served with duck jus reduced in old wine vinegar, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For my main course, I chose the “Auros Fat Duck Trilogy,” featuring fattened duck from the PALMAGRI cooperative, served in three ways: a duck chop, a skewer of aiguillettes, and pan-fried foie gras (see the picture below). Again, I enjoyed it and found it to be a creative dish that I would recreate and serve to my guests at home.
Chez Dupont’s “Auros Fat Duck Trilogy,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
My wife selected the Chicken Caesar salad, which was not “dressed to impress” and underwhelmed. In my opinion, Molly Malone’s, Bistrot Maurice, or La Tradizione, all outlined in this post, all make a better Chicken Ceaser Salad.
Chez Dupont is a classic French bistro. The ambiance was an “ok” vibe since we had to sit on the “overflow” seats on the corner. Service can be inconsistent, at least in our case. Wine-by-the-glass choices are average. Presentation and plating were fun, and I enjoyed the starter and the lamb dish. The Chicken Caesar salad was subpar, in our opinion (Pictured above).
I live less than a block away from Chez Dupont, and I can confirm that it is always crowded, especially on beautiful days, and everyone seems to be having a great time. So if you live in the Chartrons neighborhood or are planning to visit, it may be worth stopping by to sit outside, share a starter, sip on a glass of wine, and watch the people passing by.
However, if you plan to visit, I suggest making a reservation on their website. If you would like to be seated on the terrace, indicate this in your reservation or send a separate message to the restaurant.
Additionally, I would suggest that you specify you would like to sit “under the big awning of the restaurant itself,” rather than at the “flimsy” table and chairs they place in the exposed corner across the street to handle overflow.
Restaurant rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
Delights of Damascus is a Syrian-owned, family-run business in Chartrons. We visited and had many dishes, but the Delights of Damascus “Falafel Tacos were the highlight. The Falafels are huge. It’s a plate you can share.
Delights of Damascus, “Tacos Falafels,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
My favorite restaurant in the Bordeaux city center that celebrates the flavors and spices of the Middle East is “Kedem .”Check out my post titled “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.” My favorite falafels in Chartonns can be found at CASA GAÏA, listed here.
Moelleuses et Persillées is a steakhouse in Chartrons that makes the best burger I have found in Chartrons or Bordeaux, for that matter.
They call it the “M&P Burger.” It features a homemade sweet potato bun made with beef fat instead of butter. The patty is made with aged beef and is topped with raclette cheese, homemade sauce, romaine lettuce, tomato, fresh onions, and guanciale. Fries are served on the side.
Moelleuses et Persillees’ “M&P Burger,” homemade beef fat and sweet potato bun, aged beef patty, guanciale (pork), raclette cheese, romaine lettuce, tomato, fresh onions, homemade sauce, served with fries, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
The burger is excellent, with a rich, creamy taste and mouthfeel. It pairs well with a glass of Bordeaux wine. Sometimes, Moelleuses et Persillées swaps the beef patty for shredded beef marinated in their homemade barbecue sauce. I like the sauce and ask for it on the side, even with the regular patty.
Colette Burgers “Colette” is my second favorite burger in Chartrons.
The “Colette” is served on a soft potato bun with Aubrac beef steak, grilled bacon, mature cheddar, raclette cheese, candied tomatoes, onion confit, pickles, lamb’s lettuce, and Collette cocktail sauce.
The “Colette” hamburger, Colette’s Burgers, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The burger strikes a good balance of sugar, salt, and fat. The Aubrac beef steak is well seasoned and very tender, with a rich flavor that melts in your mouth. Paired with the sweet onion confit, candied tomatoes, and Colette’s cocktail sauce, it all comes together for an excellent burger.
Colette’s Burgers originated in Bordeaux, where it now has three locations, and has since expanded throughout France. They offer seating, beer, and wine, and options for chicken sandwiches and salads.
PNY Chartrons is my third favorite burger in Chartrons.
PNY originated in Paris and is inspired by New York hamburgers, which is how it got its name, Paris New York (PNY). It also serves fast food appetizers, such as corn dogs, onion rings, and jalapeno poppers, as well as sides like loaded fries. It feels like an American hamburger joint lost in France. They offer seating, beer, and wine, and options for chicken sandwiches and salads.
PNY offers a variety of burgers. I tried the “GOLDEN STATE OF MIND,” flame-grilled PNY minced steak, old-fashioned melted cheddar, iceberg lettuce, beefsteak tomato, pepper sauce, and wholegrain mustard.
PNY’s “GOLDEN STATE OF MIND,” hamburger, Chartrons, Bordeaux
PNY claims that its bun recipe comes from the founders’ grandmother in Ohio and that it hand-cuts its fries to ensure freshness.
I must say that PNY’s bun was perfect, and the burger was delicious. My understanding is that PNY burgers are flame-grilled at 650°C and come with a “secret sauce” that is a bit spicy.
PNY is very busy, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation online if you plan to visit. We tried walking in last weekend, but we were turned away because they couldn’t accommodate any more tables or orders.
Finally, if you are not French but want to look French while enjoying your hamburger, remember to eat it with a knife and fork, as the French do; otherwise, everyone will know you are a tourist.
PAB Bordeaux serves the best Italian sandwiches, known as Panuozzo, in Chartrons, Bordeaux. They just opened about the time we arrive in Chartrons.
A Panuozzo is an Italian sandwich made with pizza bread, stuffed with meat and vegetables. It was invented in 1983 by the pizzaiolo Giuseppe Mascolo, from the comune of Gragnano, near Naples, Italy, and was first adopted in the region of the Monti Lattari.
PAB Bordeaux is owned and operated by Leo. The sandwich shop is small, with just a few tables, and offers beer and wine; most people take their sandwiches to go. Leo outsources the pizza bread, made with type 00 flour, ensuring a delicate, light crust that remains soft and chewy on the inside. All the meats are imported from Italy.
PAB offers several different sandwiches, and I have tried the PAB and the PAPI. The PAB is filled with herb ham, Fior di Latte mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, and rocket. “Fior di latte” is an Italian term meaning “flower of milk.” In Italian cuisine, it refers explicitly to a fresh mozzarella cheese made from cow’s milk.
PAB Bordeaux’s “PAB,” a sandwich with herb ham, Fior di Latte mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, and rocket.
The PABI is filled with Mortadella, fior di latte mozzarella, homemade pistachio pesto, cherry tomatoes, and rocket. Both were excellent.
Another, but very different Italian sandwich option is the “Pannozo Deli Mama” sandwich from Dolomite Pizza in Chartrons. This sandwich features jambon blanc with truffle, basil pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, arugula, and a creamy Gorgonzola sauce, all packed into crispy focaccia bread. See the picture below. I enjoyed it a lot, but my wife did not due to the gorgonzola sauce. I would prepare it at home with a Parmesan cheese sauce to appeal to a broader audience.
Le Chartronnais is a French bar for locals that opens as a bar, transforms into a “Bistro” at lunchtime, and then back into a bar. The owner told me that”Le Chartronnais” has been around for 100 years and that a 95-year-old man born above the bar still visits.
Le Chartronnais, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Le Chartronnais is open Monday to Friday from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. If you stop by at 7:30 in the morning, you’ll see people already having drinks. By lunchtime, the place turns into a bistro packed with locals, offering a menu of various options at very fair prices, prepared by a competent chef, with decent wine by the glass.
Le Chartronnais’ “French Toast,” Chartrons, Bordeaux.
The food here is classic French and tastes just right. I started with the French-style Deviled Eggs (Oeufs Mimosa) and then the Entrecote Steak with Red Wine Sauce. The French toast stood out, made with vanilla and cinnamon, and served with vanilla ice cream, Chantilly cream, creme anglaise, and toasted almonds. It was a great meal for under 20 euros.
I like “Le Chartronnais,” it is like Cheers, “Where Everybody Knows Your Name.” I have not found another place like it in Chartrons.
Not many tourists visit, so if you go, be respectful, consider your impact, and follow the rules, such as being served on their schedule. Do not be surprised if you feel welcomed but a bit out of place.
There aren’t many bars in France that serve good food (more common in the U.S.A.). Le Chartronnais is the exception and as such is highly rated as a BAR.
Bar rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
Pickles is one block from where I live, so we went there twice this week to eat. Once for dinner and once for lunch. For dinner, we sat inside; for lunch, we sat outside.
The ambiance and vibe are okay, and the staff are very friendly. But the service is sloppy, detracting from the experience. But no one seems to notice. Pickles is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner (a clear plus), and it always seems crowded.
Pickles’ wine-by-the-glass list is generous, featuring four whites, four reds, a rosé, a sparkling wine, and a sweet wine. The prices are fair. They also offer beer and an excellent selection of cocktails. I ordered a Negroni this week, which was well-made and reminiscent of those I had in Florence.
The menu is small, but the “yummy quotient” is high (see my post, “5 Point Restaurant Rating System“). The dishes are well-presented and plated. Between the two visits, we essentially tried all the menu items. Below is a picture of the “Pan-fried Mussels with Thai Coconut and Coriander Sauce” I had for lunch today.
Pickles’ “Pan-fried Mussels with Thai Coconut and Coriander Sauce,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pickles is open every day, which is a real plus. It is definitely worth a visit, but it’s essential to set your expectations for the service (at least based on my experience this week). Its menu is made to share. You can start with small plates, then move on to the fish or steak platters. The desserts are fine. However, if you plan to visit during peak hours, I advise making a reservation online.
Restaurant rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
CASA GAÏA is just to the right of my front door. I can see it from my living room window. For a long time, I avoided it because it advertises itself as “organic,” which, in my experience, often means the food doesn’t taste as good. But after running out of new places to try in Chartrons, I finally gave it a shot. I’m happy I did. The food was delicious—one of the best restaurant experiences I’ve had in Chartrons. Here’s what I ordered:
Casa Gaïa’s “Ratafia de Malbec,” wine-based aperitif, Chartrons. BordeauxCasa Gaia’s “Jerusalem artichoke soup,” fennel and grilled chorizo, fresh herbs, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Casa Gaïa’s “Piece of Veal” was perfectly prepared, and the polenta fries were crispy, which is hard to get right. It was delicious.
Casa Gaïa’s “Piece of Veal,” from “The Farm of the Domaine des Faures,” grilled vegetables, white wine, mustard sauce, and pickles, Chartrons, Bordeaux
I called my wife, she came over, and ordered the “Bowl de la Casa.” The Falafel was excellent. Better than “Délices de Damas,” I mentioned above.
Casa Gaïa’s “Bowl de la Casa,” falafels, green salad, spiced quinoa, “Gaia sauce” and fresh herbs, pickles, roasted hazelnuts, grilled vegetables, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Casa Gaïa’s “Pumpkin Tart” was a terrific modern interpretation of classic pumpkin pie. It was very healthy and not too sweet.
CASA GAÏA has a great atmosphere and a fun vibe, and the service is excellent. The wine-by-the-glass choices are better than most. Presentation is simple and has a bistro feel. The food is delicious, and the desserts are also a step above. I highly recommend CASA GAÏA.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Bonvivant365 score: 21
CASA GAÏA Address: 16 bis Rue Latour, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: 05 56 52 87 21 https://www.casagaia.fr/
Japanese Ramen, FUFU
FUFU Cours Portal is a traditional Japanese ramen bar that serves authentic Japanese dishes, including ramen—bowls of broth with homemade noodles—as well as fried pork cutlets, fried shrimp, and side dishes like stir-fried vegetables, and gyoza, dumplings filled with pork and vegetables and wrapped in a thin dough.
It is located in Chartrons and is just two blocks from our Airbnb, so we visit it frequently. We always sit at the counter. The restaurant is owned and operated by a first-generation Cambodian couple and their two children, who were born in France.
The atmosphere is friendly and neighborly, reminiscent of a quaint noodle bar in Sendai, Japan (my wife’s mother was from Sendai). Fufu Cours Portal has become our go-to restaurant for Japanese ramen in Bordeaux.
We like to start with an order of Gyoza, also known as pot stickers. These originated in China, where they are called “jiaozi,” but have become a popular dish in Japan.
FUFU “Ramen,” a bowl of homemade broth with noodles, bamboo shoots, soy, egg, seaweed, and marinated confit pork, Chartrons, Bordeaux
We also like and order the FUFU’s “Yasai Itame,” a small plate of spicy wok-fried vegetables, pictured below.
FUFU “Yasai Itame,” a small plate of spicy wok-fried vegetables, Chartrons, Bordeaux
FUFU can be a bit salty but still good. We have tried many other dishes and recommend all.
There are several FUFU locations across France. We have also visited the FUFU in Toulouse and Lyon. In Bordeaux, there are two locations: one near us in Chartons and the other in the city center.
The downtown location is more traditional, with a counter in front of the cooks that resembles a “chef’s table.” The FUFU Course Portal also has a counter; however, the kitchen is located to the left and is visible through glass, allowing you to observe the cooking process from a distance.
La Tradizione’s lasagna is my favorite lasagna on Chartrons.
La Tradizione is a casual Italian restaurant featuring traditional decor, specializing in Neapolitan-style pizzas and pasta dishes, and their “Lasagna” is simply perfect. It is the kind of lasagna I love: cooked to perfection with meat, bechamel, and mozzarella, and generously covered in sauce, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux
We began our meal with Bruschetta and a mixed dish of fried calamari and shrimp, both of which I thought were excellent. My wife ordered the chicken Caesar salad, which was terrific and rivaled the one Molly mentioned earlier (see picture above).
While many dishes impressed me, the lasagna truly stole the show; it was the best I have had in France over the past year. In Chartrons, I have sampled lasagna at two other restaurants, but La Tradizione stands out as the best.
As I looked around, everyone was ordering the pizza. It also looked perfect. We plan to try La Tradizione’s pizza next. I will advise as soon as possible.
La Tradizione Address: 6 Pl. Paul et Jean Paul Avisseau, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 05 33 05 16 87
Cosi Si Mangia
Cosi Si Mangia is my second-favorite lasagna in Chartrons.
Cosi Si Mangia, an Italian deli (takeaway only) located in the Chatrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, is conveniently close to my home. The deli features a small counter offering a variety of prepared foods. It is situated right next to the wine shop that I visit regularly, which has always piqued my interest in trying their lasagna.
Today, I purchased the last piece. I brought it home and plated it, see image below. It was made traditionally and was good, but I would have preferred a bit more sauce.
Cosi Si Mangia’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
Cosi Si Mangia Address: 30 Cr Portal, 33000 Bordeaux
Marcellino
Marcellino’s lasagna is delicious, but I prefer La Tradizione’s version because it is generously covered in a tomato-based sauce. I would describe La Tradizione’s lasagna as more of an “American lasagna,” with more sauce and cheese than a traditional Italian version.
In contrast, Marcellino’s lasagna is likely more authentically Italian, with less sauce overall. If you prefer lasagna with less sauce, Marcellino’s might be a better choice. However, if you enjoy Marcellino’s lasagna but would like more sauce, you can always request extra on the side.
It is French-style and emphasizes béchamel sauce, unlike La Tradizione’s lasagna. If you prefer French lasagna, then LasagnA is the better choice.
LasagnA’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux
LasagnA offers various lasagna options at a fair price, each served with a side salad. These include vegetarian, salmon, chicken, and bolognese, among others. They also have a location in the Bordeaux center.
Macaroni and cheese is the definition of comfort food, and Moelleuses et Persillées make the best I have found in Chartrons.
Macaroni and cheese, Moelleuses et Persillées
Moelleuses et Persillées make two kinds of Macaroni and cheese, using Cavatappi pasta: “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola cheese and black truffle,” and “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola.” Both are downright decadent and great with a steak or as a takeaway snack at home.
Moelleuses et Persillees’ “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola cheese and black truffle,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Cavatappi comes from southern Italy and is named after the Italian word for “corkscrew.” Cavatappi is a hollow, spiral-shaped pasta measuring about 1 inch long. Itin length, and sometimes features ridges or grooves on its surface. The famous pasta brand Barilla calls this shape Cellentani in honor of the famous Italian singer Celentano from the 1960s
Mediterranean, Oriental, Asian, Papouch
Papouch is located in the heart of Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. We went to Papouch because we pass it every day on our way to wine school, it has an interesting menu, and it scores high on Google.
Papouch, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Papouch defines itself as a “restaurant” and describes itself as follows: “At Papouch, we delve into the vibrant flavors of the Mediterranean, as well as those from oriental and more broadly Asian cuisines,” which depends on the season and their access to fresh, local ingredients.
The ambiance and vibe were “hip,” while the service was functionally polite, most of the time. The wine-by-the-glass options were suitable. To accompany my meal, I was recommended the “G de Château Guiraud 2023.” It was an ok pairing, but I would have looked for something a little sweeter to accompany the food. For dessert, I was recommended the “Château Saint Roch Lirac Confidentielle,” a red wine whose dark, stewed fruit notes, such as plum, blackcurrant, and strawberry, were a fair pairing with the chocolate dessert.
We began our meal with the “Papouch hot pot,” a small bowl of spicy kimchi soup, which was the best I have ever had, see the picture below. This was the highlight.
Papouch’s “Hot pot,” a small bowl of spicy kimchi soup, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Next, we ordered the “Battered Potatoes,” mushroom duxelles with doenjang, and a Basque tomme cream, accompanied by pickles (see the picture below). The potatoes were fun and tasty, what I would characterize as “gourmand street food.” I particularly appreciated the use of the Basque tomme cheese, which originates from the Atlantic Pyrenees and is made from rare ewe’s milk.
My wife ordered the Bento box as her main course, which was the “special of the day.” It was served with miso soup, which met our expectations. At the same time, the Bento box was decent, but a bit salty, to our liking.
I ordered the “Korean fried chicken,” again, gourmand street food, which was spicy, sweet, and sour. It was as expected, see the picture below. We couldn’t eat it all, so we took it home. My wife had the balance for dinner, which she thoroughly enjoyed.
For dessert, we ordered the “Matchoco,” a chocolate fondant with a matcha tea molten center, accompanied by a hazelnut biscuit and green tea ice cream (see picture below).
We found Papouch to be just “okay.” There are many other places listed here that we would prefer to spend our time and money rather than Papouch.
That said, Papouch offers a different kind of cuisine, and it was bustling with people enjoying lunch and having a good time. So, if you find yourself in the Chartrons neighborhood, try Papouch; you might enjoy it, as many others do.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Toto lé’ in Chartrons specializes in Réunionnais cuisine. You might be wondering, “What is Réunionnais cuisine?” I was curious about it too when I first passed by Toto lé’ and did a double-take, thinking the restaurant had misspelled “Rouennaise.”
When I got home, I looked up Réunionnais cuisine. I learned that it is the cuisine of the island of Réunion, a French department in the Indian Ocean, and that it is essentially creole cuisine. I was amazed and felt I had to try this place and its unique cuisine.
So, I decided to visit today and ordered a dish to go. I asked Anthony, the owner, which dish was his most popular. He told me it was “Rougai Saucisses.” Anthony filled a to-go box with a generous amount of rice and the “Rougai Saucisses.” I took it home and plated it, see picture below. It was excellent.
Toto Lé’s “Rougai Saucisses,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Toto lé’ is fun to try. It has a few tables inside where you can sit and eat, but it is mainly a takeaway shop.
Marché des Quais, also known as the Sunday Guay Market, takes place every week along the Quays of Chartrons. It starts at the corner of Rue Latore and Quai des Chartrons, across the street in the Garonne River Run area, and stretches north for several blocks. You’ll find more than 70 stalls with local producers, food vendors, prepared meals, food trucks, and oyster farmers.
Oysters
There is nothing more French than going to a market and eating oysters, often with a glass of wine or Champagne. Bordeaux is just an hour from Arcachon Bay, one of France’s top oyster farming regions, so the oysters in Bordeaux are fresh, as seen in the picture below.
Marché des Quais’ fresh oysters, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and take part in this long-standing tradition.
At the market, oysters are served with lemon, butter, and bread, but not with mignonette. When I inquired about this, they explained, “We eat them naturally.” The butter adds creaminess, while the bread absorbs some of the salty brine, making the dish more substantial than eating oysters alone.
The oysters are served shucked, meaning they are opened with the top shell placed back on like a lid. To eat them, first remove the top shell. Inside, you will find the oyster meat still attached to the bottom shell, along with a liquid that looks like water. This liquid is known as “oyster liquor,” which is a combination of seawater and the oyster’s own juices.
The protocol is to eat, using the small fork provided to detach the oyster from its shell without spilling any of the “oyster liquor.” Then, lift the oyster edge to your lower lip, raise the shell, and allow the “oyster liquor” to slide into your mouth. Swallow.. If you’re unsure about the process, discreetly observe your neighbor for guidance, and you’ll quickly get the hang of it.
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and participate in this long-held French tradition. However, if you can’t make it to the Sunday market, “La Cabane Cent Un” in Chartrons is the next best place to enjoy Arcachon Bay oysters. See the picture below.
La Cabane Cent Un oysters, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pasta, PIPO
The Chartrons neighborhood offers many places to enjoy pasta. Although I haven’t tried all, I recently visited PIPO, a small, authentic Italian restaurant located on the “Quai des Chartrons.”
The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating for pleasant weather. They offer a well-executed and straightforward set menu at a reasonable price. The vegetable starters were excellent, and the pasta was cooked perfectly.
PIPO’s “Rigatoni Fresca” is served with a veal ragu infused with orange.
The service is friendly and prompt. It can get quite busy, so be sure to make a reservation if you plan to go.
Pâté en croûte can be pretty tedious to eat, which is why I enjoy it made with chorizo—it keeps things interesting. I learned how to prepare it during my time at culinary school. The manager of Bistro Marucie shared his favorite spot to buy pâté en croûte with spicy sausage at the Marché des Quais, a small stand called “Pâté de Maison” that specializes in this dish. I brought a slice home and plated it. It was excellent, and the chrizo kept me interested.
Chorizo pâté en croûte, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pizza, Monzù Chartrons
There are many places to find pizza in the Chartrons neighborhood. I have tried many, but not all. This is what I think.
Monzù Chartrons
My favorite pizza is Neapolitan. I judge pizza by the ingredients used and its dough-to-sauce-to-cheese ratio. PLUS the pizza dough should have a thin base, a reasonably thick crust, and be crispy on the outside, light and airy inside, and chewy and slightly moist in the center.
Based on this criterion, Monzù Chartrons receives the “Bonvivants365 Gold Medal” for the best pizza in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood.
Monzu’s “Margherita” pizza, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
Tripletta Chartrons
Tripletta Chartrons receives “Bonvivant365’s Silver Medal” for the best pizza in Chartrons, Bordeaux, which is made in a very similar way to La Tradizione’s pizza, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione pizza receives the “Bonvivants365 Bronze Medal” for the best pizza in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. The pizza is typical Neapolitan pizza, our favorite.
Neapolitan pizza is a traditional round pizza originating in Naples, Italy. It is characterized by its soft, thin dough with raised edges, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione’s “Margherita Pizza,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
What makes La Tradizione’s pizza particularly special is that all its ingredients are sourced from Italy. They use San Marzano PDO tomatoes for their sauce, along with Campanian mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, and fresh basil.
San Marzano tomatoes (Italian: pomodori pelati, meaning “peeled tomatoes”) are cultivated in a specific region around Naples. To be certified as San Marzano with Protected Designation of Origin (DOP), these tomatoes must be grown in the Sarnese-Nocerino region, located outside Naples and benefiting from volcanic soil from Mt. Vesuvius. It’s important to note that the DOP designation applies only to canned tomatoes, not fresh ones. San Marzano tomatoes are sweet, low in acidity, and rich in umami flavor, a characteristic attributed to the volcanic soil of Mt. Vesuvius. I buy these tomatoes regularly to make my homemade tomato sauce.
It’s important to note that Neapolitan pizza should have some moisture in the center. To someone who has never tried this type of pizza before, it may seem soggy. This moisture primarily comes from the use of fresh mozzarella, which is naturally high in water content. You will need to eat with a knife and fork.
If you plan to visit La Tradizione, I recommend making a reservation through their website, as the restaurant is typically crowded.
Pizzeria Mirabella
Pizzeria Mirabel is the fourth runner-up for best pizza in Chartrons. I evaluate pizza based on three key elements: crust, sauce, and cheese, along with their respective ratios. My benchmark is Neapolitan pizza from Naples, as mentioned above, which is known for its soft, thin dough with high edges and a perfect sauce-to-cheese ratio.
Note: If you plan to visit Pizzeria Mirabella, I recommend making a reservation in advance. The place is cozy but tiny—otherwise, takeaway.
Pizzeria Mirabella’s Margherita pizza with soppressata, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Other pizzas tried in Chartrons:
Papà Lello’s was overall disappointing for my taste.
Pizza Coasy’s pizza was acceptable, but it lacked sauce, and the crust was too thick for me.
Litalia Chartrons’ cheese-to-sauce ratio was too high for my liking; there was too much cheese relative to the sauce.
Pepitom’s Pizza Club pizza, which I tried at Les Halles Bacalan, lacked flavor, in my opinion.
Carefour Pizza “Hack”
If you want cheap, tasty pizza at home, try “CARREFOUR CLASSIC’s Chorizo Pizza.” I am not saying it is “amazing,” but in a pinch, it can hit the spot.
Carrefour’s “Chorizo pizza, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pinsa, La Bocca
There are several Italian delis and restaurants in Chartrons. La Bocca is one of them. During our time in Chartrons, we walk past it almost every day. Last week, on our way back from lunch, we stopped into the deli to look around and to have a cup of coffee. La Bocca’s deli is small, littered with Italian delicacies, with a small menu and a few tables to rest your feet, have a small bite to eat, and a coffee or glass of wine.
La Bocca, “Pinsa,” with spicy Italian salami, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Looking at the small deli menu, we saw that La Bocca offered a “Pinsa,” also known as Pinsa Romana, a hand-pressed bread with an ancient recipe dating back over 2,000 years. It was initially baked by the rural population living outside ancient Rome, typically made in an oblong shape rather than a round one. Today, Pinsa is regarded as a healthier alternative to pizza because of the way the dough is made.
La Bocca describes their Pinsa as “a crispy and soft dough that falls somewhere between a pizza and focaccia, topped with tomato sauce, cherry tomatoes, and mozzarella.” An interesting feature is that you can order either a half or a full Pinsa. Since we had already eaten lunch, we decided to order half a Pinsa with sausage and a glass of red wine.
La Bocca’s Pinsa was both enjoyable and delicious. During our visit, an older couple who seemed to be exploring the Chartrons district stopped by to rest their feet and have a small bite to eat. La Bocca is the perfect place for a break while exploring the Chartrons District of Bordeaux.
La Pointe is a seafood bistro situated in the heart of the Chartrons district. It is conveniently located near our Airbnb, so we pass by it almost daily. However, for some reason, it never caught my attention until several French locals recommended it to me. I decided to give it a try, and I’m glad we did. In many ways, it stands out for its focus on fish; it is one of the best fish restaurants I have visited in a long time.
La Pointe, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The ambiance and vibe are fun, and the service is excellent. They speak French and English well, and every seat faces the kitchen or the bar. La Pointe was full of French people there for the fish.
For starters, I ordered six “Special oysters from the Banc d’Arguin, La Déguste, Lionel Nadeau,” along with a “Sausage in white wine,” as the waiter mentioned: “In France, we always serve sausage with oysters,” we paired it and the fish dishes that followed with La Pointe’s house while Bordeaux wine, a dry white whine, I believe mainly produced from Sémillon grapes and blended with Sauvignon Blanc.
La-Pointe’s “Special oysters from the Banc d’Arguin, La Déguste, Lionel Nadeau,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I’ve enjoyed oysters all over France, from the south to the north, and I’ve never encountered this pairing before. Typically, I have them with butter and bread, but never with white sausage. Nevertheless, if someone suggests that I try a sausage, I’m not going to refuse, so I went ahead and ordered one (I thought “When in Rome”).
La-Pointe’s “Sausage in white wine,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I was still very curious, and after consulting Google, I learned that oysters and sausages are generally not paired, as I had suspected. However, in Bordeaux, it is common to serve oysters with sausages, especially during the Christmas tradition known as “Lou-Ken-Kas.” I enjoyed the pairing. It was fun.
While deciding on our main course, we noticed the kitchen preparing “Sweet and Sour Korean-Style Fried Calamari.” I’m always eager to try fried calamari, so after checking with our waiter and learning it was one of their most popular dishes, we placed an order. The dish was both enjoyable and delicious, and we had plenty left over to take home, which made an excellent snack for our Netflix-and-chill afternoon.
La Pointe’s “Sweet and Sour Korean-Style Fried Calamari,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
For my main course, I ordered the “Fish of the Day,” which came with yellow carrot mousseline, braised carmine mushrooms, and orange beurre blanc. My wife chose the “Sea Bream Ceviche,” accompanied by red meat radish, pomegranate, avocado cream, and new potatoes.
La Pointe’s “Sea Bream Ceviche,” accompanied by red meat radish, pomegranate, avocado cream, and new potatoes
For dessert, we shared the coffee tiramisu with amaretto, which we paired with their “La Peyrat XO Cognac.”
La Pointe’s coffee tiramisu with amaretto, Chartrons, Bordeaux
As I mentioned earlier, the ambiance and vibe are enjoyable, and the service is excellent. However, we found the wine-by-the-glass options a bit confusing, which made the options difficult to understand.
That said, the house dry white wine paired perfectly with the food. The presentation and plating were thoughtful but average. The dishes were spot-on and yummy. The chef’s tiramisu was exceptional.
There aren’t many restaurants I find myself craving to return to, but La Pointe is one of them. We enjoyed it so much that we made a reservation to bring my wife’s friend from San Francisco when she visits in December.
Ambiance and vibe: 5 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Moelleuses et Persillées is a steakhouse located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, very close to my Airbnb and where we attend wine school. I love steak, and they serve the best in Chartrons. I have dined there twice with my wife.
Moelleuses et Persillées, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Moelleuses et Persillées first visit
We had more time for lunch, which allowed us to visit the restaurant Moelleuses et Persillées, which offers a variety of steak options from around the world, including Kobe from Hyogo, Japan; Wagyu from Australia; Black Angus from Uruguay; Freygaaar from Finland; Dexter from Angleterre, England; and Montbéliarde from France. Moelleuses et Persillées matures its meats on-site. Each breed has a distinct maturation time that varies with factors such as marbling and age at slaughter. Moelleuses et Persillées offers a daily menu and presents a selection of meat cuts tableside for review and choosing.
“Matured Beef Croquettes” from Moelleuses et Persillées, served with a mustard-honey sauce, located in Chartrons, Bordeaux.
Moelleuses et Persillées offers an excellent selection of appetizers. My wife ordered the “Matured Beef Croquettes” with mustard and honey sauce, followed by the “Grilled Baby Lettuce” with chimichurri sauce for her main course; both dishes were outstanding.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ “Grilled Baby Lettuce” topped with chimichurri sauce, located in Chartrons, Bordeaux.
As for me, I decided to order the steak, but my choices were limited since the Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are typically sized and cut for sharing, usually weighing around 700 grams, which was too much for me (even though I planned to take most of it home). However, they did have a 500-gram Dexter steak from Angleterre, England, so I ordered it cooked Bleu, of course. Please see the picture below.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ “Dexter Beef,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
The Dexter breed was developed through the genetic selection of cattle from Ireland, England, Scotland, and Wales. Dexter beef is known for its tenderness and a sweet, slightly nutty flavor. Additionally, this breed often exhibits a unique marbling pattern referred to as “spider” marbling.
Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are served with a three-pepper sauce and accompanied by a salad or fries. Additionally, you can order a side of pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow. My steak was perfectly cooked, the three-pepper sauce was sun-dried, the salad was nicely dressed with a mustard vinaigrette, and the fries were cooked to perfection.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ salad, Chartrons, BordeauxMoelleuses et Persillées’ fries, Chartrons, BordeauxMoelleuses et Persillées’ three-pepper sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Moelleuses et Persillées may be expensive, but it is a steak lover’s paradise. Located in the heart of the Chartrons neighborhood, it offers both indoor and outdoor seating and excellent service.
I plan to return when I have the opportunity for a proper meal, where I can order wine from their extensive by-the-glass list and indulge in dessert. I’m particularly interested in trying the pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow, along with the “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola” sides.
Moelleuses et Persillées second visit
We met a new friend in Bordeaux and wanted to take them to lunch to get to know them better. So, we took him to Moelleuses et Persillées because it is close to the school and is known for its meats, which I wanted to try more of. It turned out to be an epic lunch that lasted just short of four hours.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ cuts of steak, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Looking back at the pictures, I realize we didn’t order a starter. If I had to do it again, I would have tried the “Tempura prawns, crushed roasted avocado, yuzu mayonnaise and coriander,” or the “Pan-seared scallops, served with Jerusalem artichoke purée, sesame dashi, nori flakes and crispy rice, all enhanced with hazelnut oil.” But I am glad we didn’t because in the end we had so much food we both needed doggie bags.
For our main courses, we selected two beef cuts, served one after the other: Supreme Beef from Germany and Santa Rosalia Wagyu from Spain.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ “Supreme Beef,” from Germany, Chartrons, BordeauxMoelleuses et Persillées’ “Wagyu beef,” from Spain, Chartrons, Bordeaux
As accompaniments, we ordered pan-fried foie gras, macaroni with Comté, Gorgonzola, and black truffle, and potato mille-feuille.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ macaroni with Comté, Gorgonzola, and black truffle, Chartrons, Bordeaux
My wife ordered the “M&P Burger,” a homemade beef fat and sweet potato bun, aged pulled beef, raclette cheese, homemade BBQ sauce, pickles, fried onions, and fries.
Instead of dessert, we ordered the cheese plate, featuring Morbier, Tomme de Savoie, Brie, and Ossau Iraty.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ cheese plate, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The house welcomed us each with a glass of champagne. We then ordered a bottle of Château Poujeaux Moulis-en-Médoc 2016, followed by a bottle of Clos Dufourg Margaux 2020, and finally a bottle of Boekenhoutskloof, The Chocolate Block.
It was an epic lunch that lasted close to four hours; a great moment.
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 5 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Dessert and/or cheese plate quality: 4 Yummy quotient: 5
YUMI is a small shusi shop on the Quais De Bordeaux in Chartrons. My wife and I are fortunate that it is near our Wine School (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux“), so we go once a week for lunch.
While YUMI calls itself a restaurant, I would describe it more as an “unadorned café.” There are tables outside, and inside, there’s a back room with tables but no windows. The decor is quite drab. A husband-and-wife team runs it, and the service is friendly and attentive.
The selection of sushi and sashimi included is generally limited to tuna, salmon, white fish, and shrimp, but what is available is exceptional—truly melt-in-your-mouth sushi. The owner informed me that he sources his fish from Scotland.
My wife often orders the lunch set, which includes miso soup and a small side salad of pickled cabbage. I typically order the sashimi platter, which comes with the pickled cabbage salad, and ask to substitute the rice for miso soup; see the picture below.
Le Petit Vietnam is located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, and they also have a to-go place in the Bordeaux-Lac neighborhood. I stopped by on my way home one day to give it a try. I ordered the classic “Phở,” a Vietnamese soup dish made with broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat. It was excellent.
Le Petit Vietnam’s “Phở,” a Vietnamese soup dish consisting of broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat
Le Petit Vietnam Chartrons Address: 49 Cr de la Martinique, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: 05 54 69 71 41
Tacos, La Copa Rota
Authentic Mexican tacos are hiding in plain sight in Chartron at La Copa Rota.
La Copa Rota is a taco “seakeasy,” meaning it is hard to find, opens and closes at will, and, from what I observed, turns away as many people as it hosts.
La Copa Rota’s chicken tacos, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Don’t misunderstand, these are not the bastardized “French tacos” popularized by Kebab houses across France. These are AUTHENTIC MEXICAN TACOS, full of the flavor and spirit of Mexico, made with passion and to exact specifications by the hostess and her band of merry helpers in a small kitchen fronting a seating area that accommodates 10 or so people.
La Copa Rota taco is far and away the best taco I have ever had in France and maybe in my life. But like I said, La Copa Rota opens when it opens and closes when it closes. The best chance you have to try the most authentic taco, probably in all of France, is to email the address below and see if you can wiggle your way in for a taste.
Le Sobre Chartrons is a wine bar right down the street from my Airbnb. My wife and I visited Le Soubre Chartrons four years ago on our first visit to Bordeaux, and nothing changed. It is still as good a wine bar as we remembered.
Le Sobre Chartrons Charcuterie board, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Le Sobre Chartrons has a welcoming and comfortable atmosphere. When the weather is nice, there are seats available outside on the sidewalk; otherwise, there are plenty of seats and tables inside.
Le Sobre Chartrons, “Tatsuko,” Tataki style marinated beef, Japanese flavors, Chartrons, Bordeaux
At Le Sobre Chartrons, you can order wine by the glass or purchase a bottle. The wine bar also features wine dispenser machines equipped with a card reader, which allow for adjustable portion sizes. You can choose from different serving sizes—taster, half-glass, or full glass—simply by pressing a button.
Inform your server or approach the bar and request to use the wine dispenser machine. They will hand you a card to insert into the wine dispenser machine, then select the desired wine and portion. When you are done tasting wines, hand the card, and they will charge you for what you have drunk.
We have never had dinner at Le Sobre Chartrons, but their small bites and plates are well-appreciated and respected.
Le Sobre Chartrons “Mimosa-Eggs,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Le Sobre Chartrons regularly updates its wine machine, with at least one excellent wine available by the glass, making frequent visits worthwhile.
Before or after you have a bite to eat in the Chartrons neighborhood, here are some ideas for things to do in Chartrons.
Browse the Village Notre-Dame antique shop
Village Notre-Dame, antique store in Chartrons, Bordeaux
Cut cheese at Fromagerie Beillevaire Bordeaux Les Grands Hommes
Fromagerie Beillevaire Bordeaux Les Grands Hommes is my favorite cheese shop in Chartons. It is a great place to stop by and select a cheese to take home after a day in Chartrons.
Beillevaire Cheese Shop, Chartrons district of Bordeaux
Light a candle: Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons de Bordeaux
Saint-Louis Church was constructed between 1874 and 1880 under the designs of Pierre-Charles Brun. It is located in the center of Chartrons, making it unmissable.
Say hello to the oldest continuously operating oven in France
If you have the opportunity, visit Boulangerie “Au Pétrin Moissagais,” which claims to have the oldest continuously operating oven in France (pictured below). The wood-burning oven, pictured below, was built in 1765.
Boulangerie Au Pétrin Moissagais’ oven, Chartrons, Bordeaux
They still make hearty Gasconian bread from South West France, along with many other pastry items, so you can grab one to try or take home.
Boulangerie “Au Pétrin Moissagais” Address: 72 Cr de la Martinique, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 05 57 87 54 57
Snap a rooftop picture of the Garonne River
Tchanqué Bordeaux’s restaurant and bar offers a rooftop view of Chartrons and the Garonne River. It is a great photo opportunity.
Tchanqué Brodaux offers a rooftop view of Chartrons, the Garonne River, and the Pont Jacques-Chaban-Delmas
My wife and I are currently in Bordeaux to attend the CAFA wine school (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). Before the program started, we spent a week in Cyprus, staying in the old town of Larnaca. Larnaca, also known as Larnaka, is the longest continuously inhabited area in Cyprus, with a history that dates back 4,000 years.
The Church of Saint Lazarus is a late-9th-century church in Larnaca, Cyprus
Larnaca is by far our favorite seaside town on the island. It is not overly polished; it has a warm, Mediterranean atmosphere, and the local Cypriot people are incredibly welcoming.
Here are our favorite places to eat:
Alasia Cafe
Alasia Cafe in Larnaca is a short walk down the promenade from Larnaka Castle, heading toward Mackenzie Beach, across from Militzis’ Restaurant, mentioned below. It offers traditional Cypriot food and wine, and provides a cozy atmosphere with excellent service at reasonable prices.
Alasia is famous throughout the island for its homemade desserts. When we arrived to try them, we looked at the full menu and decided to share a grilled whole fish with fries and a side of tzatziki. The fish was fresh and grilled to perfection.
Next, we ordered three desserts to sample, which were just as advertised. The Loukoumádes, pictured below, are light and crispy Greek doughnuts dipped in honey syrup and served with vanilla ice cream.
Alasia Cafe’s “Loukoumádes” served with vanilla ice cream in Larnaca, Cyprus
If I had more time in Larnaca, I would have gone back to Alasia several more times to try more of the menu.
Although it was my first time in Cyprus, I have visited Greece, its close relation, many times and have always enjoyed dining at traditional tavernas that offer delicious food, lively music, and dancing. I wanted my wife, who had never experienced this before, to enjoy it as well.
So on our trip to Cyprus, I searched extensively for the just the right traditional tavern to take her to for authentic Cypriot food and live music. After an exhaustive search, I decided on Alonia Tavern and called to make a reservation for Saturday night.
Saturday night came, and we took a cab from “Old Town Larnaca” to the tavern. We arrived early and were immediately warmly greeted by the staff, as if we had known each other for years. We felt right at home. At that moment, I knew I had made the right choice.
Up to this point, one thing that impressed me about Cyprus was the openness and friendliness of the Cypriots, especially in the old town of Larnaca and the surrounding villages. The staff at Alonia, along with the musicians and other guests, truly reflected the soul and authentic energy of Cyprus. I knew at that moment it was going to be a magical night to remember.
I digress; I haven’t even mentioned the food yet. It was absolutely fantastic—in the best way possible. They began serving the meza, and it seemed like it would never end. More and more dishes kept coming out. After that, they brought our meat dishes, and the whole meal concluded with a delicious homemade chocolate cake.
At one point, I realized that I had never asked the price of the meal, so I inquired, “How much are we paying for this feast?” The server responded that it was 25 euros per person. I was taken aback. Jokingly, I said, “Is that per dish?” The waiter laughed and clarified, “No, it’s 25 euros per person for the entire meal.” I was dumbfounded.
In all, we served generous portions of:
Bastourma pies, potato salad, Lebanese yogurt dip with minced meat and eggplant, tzatziki dip, tahini, beetroot, and Greek village salad, pictured below.
Sausages, beef liver, mushrooms, and village-style pasta;
Strapatsada (scrambled eggs with tomatoes, green peppers, and caramelized onions);
Chicken livers with mushrooms and caramelised onions, koupepia, and smyrna meatball;
Chicken kebab, pork kebab, sheftalia.
Boneless chicken thigh marinated with oil and smoked paprika, wine-marinated pork bacon, and French fries, and;
Homemade, moist chocolate cake with ice cream for dessert
Alonia’s Tavern bastourma pies, potato salad, Lebanese yogurt dip with minced meat and eggplant, tzatziki dip, tahini, beetroot, and Greek village salad, Larnaca, Cyprus
The tavern is family-owned and operated. Christos (the father) owns the tavern and is the cook. Stephanos (the son) manages the front of the house with the help of his girlfriend. Maire, the mother, also helps in the kitchen.
The band does not have a name. Mr. Christodoulos plays the bouzouki and sings, and Mrs Myroul accompanies him.
You can dance and buy plaster plates for smashing.
Maqam Al-Sultan Restaurant is a Lebanese eatery located adjacent to the Medieval Fort on the Larnaca pier. It offers an extensive selection of hot and cold mezzas, as well as main courses available à la carte or in set menus.
Additionally, a wine list featuring Lebanese and Cypriot wines is available. We chose the “Chateau Ksara Le Prieuré,” which comes from one of Lebanon’s oldest vineyards, established in 1857.
Over two nights, we sampled ten different hot and cold mezzas (there are more):
Hummus – chickpea puree with sesame paste (Tahini) and lemon juice.
Hummus Beiruti – chickpea puree with hot pepper, parsley, sesame paste (Tahini), and lemon juice
Shanklish – strained yogurt, oregano, and dry spices, topped with fresh tomato, onion, and olive oil
Moutabal Baba Ghanouj – grilled aubergine puree mixed with sesame paste (Tahini) and lemon juice.
Rahib – grilled aubergine mixed with sweet bell peppers, garlic, finely chopped onion, and parsley, dressed with pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, and olive oil.
Moussaka Batinjan – fried aubergine baked with tomato, onion, garlic, chickpeas, and spices.
Fattoush – lettuce, tomato, cucumber, onion, radish, pomegranate seeds, and toasted pieces of Lebanese bread, served with Al-Sultan sauce dressing.
Tabbouleh – parsley salad with tomato, crushed wheat, onion, fresh mint, lemon juice, and olive oil dressing.
Muhammara – a blend of grilled sweet red pepper, crushed walnuts, olive oil, paprika, and Lebanese herbs.
Warak Inab B’Zeit, – vine leaves filled with rice, tomato, parsley, mint, and onion, cooked in olive oil with lemon juice.
Kibbeh Maklieh, five pieces of deep-fried traditional Lebanese meatballs filled with sautéed minced lamb and beef, onion, and pine nuts, pictured below.
Jawaneh, six pieces of charcoal-grilled marinated chicken wings, served with garlic sauce.
Maqam-Al-Sultan’s “Kibbeh Maklieh,” deep-fried traditional Lebanese meatballs filled with sautéed minced lamb and beef, onion, and pine nuts, Larnaca, Cyprus
If you make it through the mezza, as mentioned above, Maqam Al-Sultan offers a selection of main courses, including meat and fish options. The first night, after all the mezza, I ordered the “Mixed Grill,” which included four skewers: one of Chicken Kafta, one of Shish Taouk, one of Kafta, and one of Lahem Meshw, pictured below. To say the least, it was “full to bursting.”
Maqam Al Sultan’s “Mixed Grill,” platter, Larnaca, Cyprus
The true highlight of the meal was the dessert. We opted for the baklava, a selection of traditional Lebanese pastries filled with nuts, pictured below. I didn’t have high expectations, as I thought I knew what to expect from baklava based on my previous experiences. However, I was pleasantly surprised. The baklava from Maqam Al-Sultan was exceptional—it truly stood out. It was a home run and easily the best baklava I have ever tasted. They don’t make it in-house. They source from the best Lebanese bakery on the Island.
Maqam Al Sultan’s “Baklava,” Larnaca, Cyprus
Maqam Al-Sultan’s dishes are a journey through Middle Eastern flavours and aromas. They highlight fresh, high-quality ingredients, including herbs like mint, parsley, and cilantro, as well as spices such as sumac, cinnamon, and za’atar, along with fruits like pomegranate.
I have only one word to describe Maqam Al-Sultan: amazing.
Militzis Restaurant is the best place for traditional Cypriot meat dishes… I already wrote about Militzis’ Sheep’s Head (see my post “Try Sheep’s Head, Cyprus“
Pizzeria 485 ° makes classic Neapolitan pizza in Larnaca. All ingredients come from Italy—classic Neapolitan. I ordered the Campania, tomato San Marzano D.O.P., Mozzarella Fiordilatte, Basil, Parmigiano Reggiano D.O.P., Salsiccia Salami, pictured below.
Pizzeria 485’s “Campania” pizza, Larnaca, Cyprus
Address: Q City Center |, D.N Dimitriou 11, Larnaca 6022, Cyprus Phone: +357 70 000485
Stou Roushia
Recommended as “his” local favorite for Greek food by our Airbnb host, “Stou Roushia,” located in Larnaca’s old town, did not disappoint. We went there on our first night and had an excellent selection of meze, grilled lamb, pictured below, and Cypriot wine by the glass.
Takis Georgiou Kafeneio, a sandwich shop in Larnaca, is renowned for making the finest traditional toasted Cypriot sandwiches, made with triara buns.
Two women work behind the counter. The woman I spoke to told me that she has been making sandwiches at Takis since she was 16 years old, or 59 years ago.
The ‘traditional’ Cypriot sandwich includes: ham, cheese, and halloumi, bacon, pork lountza, smoked ham, mayo, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and homemade pickles on the side, pictured below:
My wife and I relocated to Bordeaux two weeks ago to settle in and prepare for wine school, which we’ll be attending for the next five months (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). True to my “bonvivant” nature, I identified and tried the best restaurants in Bordeaux, as well as brasseries, bistros, and casual dining places.
Bordeaux’s bronze turtles in the Place de la Victoire, Bordeaux, France
Unlike many food, travel, and review sites that compile opinions from across the internet without ever visiting the locations themselves, my recommendations are based on my own experiences and perspective.
In addition, my wife and I have created our own rating system (see my post, “5-point Restaurant Rating System“) based on the following criteria: ambiance and vibe, wine by the glass options, presentation and plating, yummy quotient, and dessert quality that I use to rate the restaurants, brasseries, and bistros discussed below.
Ok. Let’s go!
Restaurants vs Brasseries vs Bistros
Both brasseries and bistros offer traditional French cuisine, but they differ in atmosphere. Brasseries usually have a larger, more elegant, and open-air setting, a good example is the iconic Le Grand Colbert in Paris. In contrast, bistros tend to be smaller, cozier, and more informal, resembling a neighborhood favorite.
Restaurants, however, are different. While brasseries and bistros specialize in traditional French dishes, establishments labeled as “restaurants” in France feature a much more diverse array of cuisines.
MICHELIN Bib Gourmand Restaurants in Bordeaux, France
If you’ve visited my blog before, you know I’m a fan of MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants. They generally offer a “gastronomic” three-course meal at a fair price that tastes good.
So, the first thing I did when we arrived in Bordeaux was look for MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants. There are four MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Bordeaux itself and one located across the river in the village of Saint-André-de-Cubzac.
We visited each in Bordeaux proper. Below is what we thought of each.
Madame B Restaurant
Madame B restaurant, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, is situated within the Burdigala Hotel. It features a chic brasserie style with a retro flair, accompanied by excellent service. I enjoyed the atmosphere and vibe.
The restaurant provides a selection of classic aperitifs, including champagne and white sparkling wines from the “Crémant de Bordeaux” wine appellation. My wife chose the champagne. Additionally, Madame B offers a wine-by-the-glass (WBT) program featuring a variety of red and white wines at both affordable and mid-range price points.
Madame B’s “Eggs with mushrooms and parsley cream,” Bordeaux, France
For lunch or dinner, guests can choose between 2 to 5 “comfort dishes.” For my starter, I ordered the “Eggs with mushrooms and parsley cream,” while my wife chose the “Cauliflower salad with fennel and vegetable tarama.” Both dishes were well presented and beautifully plated; however, they lacked seasoning, particularly my wife’s dish, which subtracted from their “yummy quotient.”
Madame B’s “Cauliflower salad with fennel and vegetable tarama,” Bordeaux, France
My wife chose the “M’hamsa semolina with herbs, corn, and piquillos” for her main course.
Madame B’s “M’hamsa semolina with herbs, corn, and piquillos, Bordeaux, France
I ordered the “Duck served with white cabbage, lemon, mustard, and a rich sauce.” My wife’s dish was beautifully presented, but it lacked seasoning, which I felt might have been a matter of personal taste. On the other hand, the duck was perfectly prepared and quite delicious.
Madame B’s “Duck served with white cabbage, lemon, mustard, and a rich sauce,” Bordeaux, France
For dessert, we shared the “Vacherin with citrus, tonic, and juniper berry emulsion” and the “Chocolate dessert with peanut, ginger, and vanilla ice cream,” as shown in the picture below. Madame B has its own pastry chef, and it really shows. The desserts were the best we have experienced at any MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in France.
Madame B’s chocolate dessert with peanut, ginger, and vanilla ice cream, Bordeaux, France
Madam B’s second visit
Update: Last night we took a friend to Madame B. The menu, of course, had changed. Once again, the ambiance and vibe were lovely, the wine-by-the-glass options were gracious, including sweet wines; the food was thoughtfully presented and plated; I updated the “yummy quotient” to 4; and the dessert was impeccable. All the MICHELIN Bib Gourmands in Bordeaux are worth trying, but a second visit confirmed that Madame B is the best MICHELIN Bib Gourmand in Bordeaux. Here are a few of the dishes we had:
Kedem, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, features Near and Middle Eastern cuisine, as well as homemade breads (Kaak and Kubane Yehen). All menus begin with a mezze set to share, accompanied by its selection of breads, followed by a main course, with or without dessert.
Kedem’s traditional specialty breads are made on site, Bordeaux, France
Meze with one ‘z’ is more commonly used in Greece, while ‘mezze’ is used in Turkey; however, many people from the Mediterranean region use the words interchangeably. We ordered a starter, main course, and desserts to try everything.
Kadem’s mezza, Bordeaux, France
I ordered the “Babour: Beef kefta with herbs, burnt tomato stew, chickpeas, herb tahini, onion condiment, and sumac.”
Kedem’s “Babour,” beef kefta with herbs, burnt tomato stew, chickpeas, herb tahini, onion condiment, and sumac, Bordeaux, France
My wife ordered the “Daguim: Marinated and semi-cooked albacore tuna, zucchini stuffed with freekeh and herbs, and almond cream.”
For dessert, we ordered and shared the “Basboussa: Semolina cake soaked in orange blossom and lemon, peach poached in rose syrup, strawberry sorbet, cardamom, and hibiscus,” (pictured below) and the “Knafé: Kadaif cake, stringy cheese, hibiscus syrup, whipped cream with halva.”
Kedem’s “Basboussa,” semolina cake soaked in orange blossom and lemon, peach poached in rose syrup, strawberry sorbet, cardamom, and hibiscus, Bordeaux, France
Kedem’s plating is simple, but the dishes are complex with layers of flavors.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 17
Restaurant Kedem Address: 16 Rue Jean Burguet, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: +33 (0) 5 57 80 04 30 https://kedem.fr/
Racines
Racines, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, is a small, gastronomic restaurant located down the street from Madame B. It appears to have a following, as evidenced by the greeting given to the arriving patrons.
The menu is small and changes approximately every month. We each ordered a starter, main course, and dessert to try everything. There are two starter options, two main-course options, and two dessert options. So we ordered one of each to try all possibilities.
The menu is limited but updates approximately every month. There are two options for starters, two for main courses, and two for desserts. We decided to order a starter, a main course, and a dessert for each of us to sample everything on offer.
Starters: “Glazed carrot” with miso and peanut, served with satay sauce and passion fruit (pictured below), and “Marinated Squid,” served with shellfish bouillon, grapefruit, and fresh herbs.
Raciens’ “Glazed carrot,” with miso and peanut served with satay sauce and passion fruit, Bordeaux, France
For her main course, my wife selected “The Pollock,” served with fennel and mirabelle plum, pictured below.
Racine’s “The Pollock,” served with fennel and mirabelle plum, Bordeaux, France
I select the “Chicken supreme with mushrooms and seaweed,” served with leeks and roast chicken jus, pictured below. Both were excellent.
Racine’s “Chicken supreme, mushrooms, seaweed,” served with leeks and roast chicken jus, Bordeaux, France
Desserts: “Rhubarb from the Maison Vermes,” served with basil and raspberry, and “The Chocolate by Nicolas Berger,” served with dark berries and shiso, are pictured below.
Raciens’ “The Chocolate by Nicolas Berger,” served with dark berries and shiso, Bordeaux, France
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
Panaille, like Kedem, is an authentic MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in the sense of value for money. For lunch, an entrée, main course, and dessert are just 23 euros.
Panaille’s ambiance and vibe are those of a lively coffee shop, enhanced by the background music. I felt inclined to pull out my laptop and start writing my blog. The service is friendly, though somewhat hurried, as the staff is quite busy. The only downside to the service was that they didn’t clear away the empty wine glasses or water bottle during our meal, leaving the table cluttered.
Panaille boasts a good wine-by-the-glass menu. They feature four red wines, five white wines, one rosé, a Champagne, and a sparkling wine sourced from Graves, Sud-Ouest (South West), Languedoc, Bourgogne, Entre-deux-Mers, and Champagne regions. As an aperitif, my wife ordered the Couvreur Philippart Champagne Premier Cru, Extra Brute, and for her meal, she ordered the Domaine du Salut, Bordeaux Graves Red 2023.
Panaille’s “Leeks and Quinoa with Ravigote Sauce,” Bordeaux, France
For her starter, my wife ordered the “Leeks and Quinoa with Ravigote Sauce,” pictured above. I chose the “Fried Chicken with Romaine Salad tossed in Sriracha Mayo,” pictured below.
Panaille’s “Fried Chicken with Romaine Salad tossed in Sriracha Mayo,” Bordeaux, France
For her main course, my wife chose the “Pig Cheek served in Tom Kha Kai,” a spicy, sour soup made with coconut milk, white beans, and oyster mushrooms. I ordered the “Plat Du Jour” (French for “Plate of the Day”), featuring slow-cooked lamb served with quinoa and root vegetables, as shown in the picture below.
Panaille’s “Lamb confit” serves with quinoa and root vegetables, Bordeaux, France
In terms of plating and presentation, all the dishes were served in a “bistro” style, in bowls. The lamb was exciting; it looked as if it were lying in a wooded meadow, with leaves fallen around it—an evocative autumnal dish.
In terms of “yummy quotient,” all the dishes were yummy—particularly the starters. The “Pig Cheek served in Tom Kha Kai” was also yummy once we got past the “culinary foam” that had a brownish tint.
For dessert, we shared “Manon’s Cheese Plate,” a selection of Manon’s cheeses, and “Dessert du Jour,” a cheesecake. The cheese was pleasant, and Panaille’s cheesecake interpretation was intriguing. However, similar to the other MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants mentioned earlier—except for Madam B, which has its own pastry chef—the desserts, though appreciated, were very simple.
The only advice I would have is: 1) Don’t sell; serve me sparkling water that I can buy at Carrefour for 0.99 euros. Work with your beverage supplier and carry a sparkling water with a “mysterious” name; 2) Clear the empty glasses and water bottles at least between services.
In the end, Panaille offers tremendous value for money, at least for lunch, and is an authentic MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant. They frequently change the menu, so it is worth visiting often.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score 17
Panaille Address: 137 Rue du Tondu, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: +33 (0) 6 60 41 87 39 https://www.panaille.fr/
In summary, all four MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Bordeaux are worth visiting. Madame B is my overall favorite, while Kadem and Panaille are excellent options that offer great value for money, especially for lunch. We did not visit Inomoto’s Table because it is located in Saint-André-de-Cubzac, outside of Bordeaux proper. With the time we have left in Bordeaux, I would like to focus on exploring the MICHELIN 1-star restaurants instead.
Bistros in Bordeaux
There are a lot of what I call the “B.S. Bistros of Bordeaux (BBB),” so you need to be careful.
Amicis’ Bistro
Amicis functions as a bistro by day and a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant by night. We didn’t want to go at night (at least not yet), so we tried the brasserie.
Here are my thoughts: Overall, the atmosphere is lively. The wine selection by the glass was just average, so we opted for a bottle instead. The presentation, plating, and flavor of the food were excellent. However, despite claiming to have a pastry chef, the desserts were disappointing.
So, regarding a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant, I can’t comment. As a bistro, I think Amicis is okay, but for me, there are many better options in Bordeaux, which I discuss below. Such as any of the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants, or Au Bistro, for that matter.
That said, Amicis was packed, and people seemed to be having a good time. So, “to each his own,” give it a try, maybe you will like it.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
It was a sunny and warm November day, so I decided to skip wine school and explore the Chartrons District, where I live. I stopped by “4th Wave Café” to enjoy a cup of Kona coffee (See my post “The Best Restaurants in Chatrons“).
Arcada restaurant, Bordeaux, France
While I was there, I struck up a conversation with the staff, and when I asked for their lunch recommendations, they suggested Arcada, a restaurant in downtown Bordeaux. So, I quickly canceled my lunch plans in Chartrons, made a reservation at Arcada, and headed downtown.
Arcada’s wine cellar, Bordeaux, France
I arrived at Arcada. The welcome was warm. I chose my seat. As an aperitif, I started with a white vermouth; I don’t know, I was just in the mood. It was nicely made and a refreshing start. They also offer a Bloody Mary, among other options.
Arcada’s white vermouth apéritif, Bordeaux, France
For starters, I ordered the “Roasted Portobello,” mascarpone-truffle stuffing, brown mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, sherry gel, green olive oil, and port sauce. I paired it with a glass of the “Château Bonnet Rouge Réserve.” It worked.
Arcada’s “Roasted Portobello,” mascarpone-truffle stuffing, brown mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, sherry gel, green olive oil, and port sauce.” Bordeaux, France
For my main course, I ordered the “Pork tenderloin,” cauliflower mousseline with brown butter, endive roasted in chorizo oil, sautéed shiitake mushrooms, pearl onions confit in cider vinegar, roasted hazelnuts, and pork jus. I paired it with a glass of the “Chateau Cartier, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 2019,” which worked well.
Arcada’s “Pork tenderloin,” cauliflower mousseline with brown butter, endive roasted in chorizo oil, sautéed shiitake mushrooms, pearl onions confit in cider vinegar, roasted hazelnuts, and pork jus,” Bordeaux, France
I then ordered the “Cheese Assortment,” and paired it with “Louise Dubois, Pouilly-Fuisse Grande Reserve, 2019.” It worked perfectly.
Arcada’s “Cheese Assortment,” Bordeaux, France
Finally, I selected the “White chocolate and soursop ganache, coconut shortbread, mango gel, passion fruit, vanilla coconut water, and ginger salted caramel.” I paired it with a “Château Saint Aubin, Bas Armagnac, Vintage 1992,” and it worked well.
Arcada’s “White chocolate and soursop ganache, coconut shortbread, mango gel, passion fruit, vanilla coconut water, and ginger salted caramel,” Bordeaux, France
In summary, Arcada’s ambiance, vibe, and service were exceptional. The wine-by-the-glass options and the overall wine list were above average. It would be a great addition to have a Maury by the glass, which is quite fashionable today, on the menu to pair with desserts. The presentation and plating of the dishes were also above average, and it was clear that the team was putting effort into each dish. The cheese plate, while somewhat basic, was reasonably priced at 6 euros, so it was hard to complain. The “chef’s” dessert was a commendable attempt. Overall, the experience was quite enjoyable.
In my opinion, the restaurant lives up to its reputation as a “restaurant to watch.” The value for money is exceptional, and the chef and the team are putting in extra effort to showcase their talents. If they maintain this level of quality, I wouldn’t be surprised to see them designated a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand or even receive a star within the next three to five years.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Cheese plate or dessert quality: 3 Yummy quotient: 4
As I mentioned above, bistros typically have smaller spaces than restaurants or brasseries, creating a cozier, more informal atmosphere that feels like a neighborhood favorite. They often serve traditional French cuisine, occasionally with a modern twist. To evaluate the bistros I visit, I use our 5-point rating system (refer to my blog post “5-point Restaurant Rating System” for more details).
Au Bistro
Wherever I go, I always try to find out where the locals eat. So, I asked one of my teachers at school (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“) for a list of recommended local restaurants. Au Bistro was on the list. In fact, he mentioned that when he worked nearby, he used to go to Au Bistro for lunch twice a week. I had to give it a try.
As is our fashion, we arrived early before the doors opened to ensure we had a good choice of seating. The first room features a long, bar-like counter that faces the kitchen. We unashamedly grabbed a seat at the counter, which allowed us to watch the chefs at work; the ambiance and vibe were lively.
Au Bistro’s counter, Bordeaux, France
Since Au Bistro is located directly across the square from the Marché des Capucins, the largest covered market in Bordeaux, it has access to a steady stream of ultra-fresh produce, meats, and fish. They have an excellent wine list by the bottle, and there were eight wine options available by the glass: four whites and four reds from various French wine regions, offered at reasonable prices.
To start, I ordered the “Oeufs en Meurette,” which are poached eggs in a red wine sauce (see the picture below).
Au Bistro’s “Œufs Meurette,” poached eggs in a rich and flavorful red wine sauce, Bordeaux, France
My wife opted for the pumpkin soup, see the picture below. Both dishes were excellent. In fact, the “Oeufs en Meurette” were the best I have had in France.
Au Bistro’s “Pumpkin Soup,” Bordeaux, France
For our main courses, I selected the râble de lapin, or rabbit saddle. Rabbit saddles refer to the loin meat from the rabbit; rabbit loin meat is exceptionally tender. My dish was served with root vegetables and a broth, see picture below. It was outstanding.
Au Bistro’s “Rabbit Saddle” with root vegetables and jus, Bordeaux, France
My wife opted for the Chicken Caesar Salad, see the picture below.
Au Bistro’s “Chicken Caesar Salad,” Bordeaux, France
For dessert, we decided to share Pain Perdu, French toast (yes, the French eat French toast for dessert). It was just ok. I have had much better, see the picture below.
Au Bistro’s “French toast,” Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro is a genuinely traditional French bistro that offers an intimate, cozy, and informal atmosphere. It focuses on simple, home-style meals, with a touch of gastronomy for good measure, making it a perfect neighborhood go-to spot.
In fact, it is the most authentically French experience I have had at a restaurant during my time in France. However, be prepared for a few things: the service rhythm is French, and while the staff is welcoming and pleasant, they maintain a professional distance. There are no English menus available, and to-go boxes are not provided, so bring your own.
Au Bistro, second visit
Au Bistro is by far the best bistro I have found in Bordeaux, and all the restaurants I know agree. So when my wife’s friend came to visit, we took her to Au Bistro. It was better than the first time. This is what we had:
Au Bistro’s “Village Soup” BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Soup Saint Jacques,” BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Sausage in Brioche” with gravy and side salad, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Sea Bass” with root vegetables and broth, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Scallops” with root vegetables and broth, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Braised Beef” with root vegetables and jus, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Pear Clafoutis,” BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Soft Chocolate Cake,” Bordeaux
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 2
As I mentioned above, I always try to find out where locals eat whenever I travel. To find some recommended local restaurants, I asked one of my teachers at school for suggestions. He told me about Cochon Volant, a bistro famous for its dish featuring “Le Noir de Bigorre” (English: “The Black Pig of Bigorre”).
The “Black Pig of Bigorre” is distinguished by its distinctive black coat and horizontal ears. This breed is native to the Central Pyrenees and is not found anywhere else. Evidence of the Noir de Bigorre pig dates back to the Gallo-Roman era. Today, these pigs are raised in the foothills of the Pyrenees, where they are fed a natural, healthy diet of grass, fruits, and nuts, resulting in meat with distinct marbling and flavor.
The Black Pig of Bigorre is a product certified with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). This means that the name “Black Pig of Bigorre” can only be used for this specific breed of pig and cannot be applied to other breeds or black pigs raised in different locations. The PDO certification for Noir de Bigorre pork ensures that the pigs are born, raised, and slaughtered in a designated area that includes the Hautes-Pyrénées, certain towns in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, and parts of Gers and Haute-Garonne. Additionally, these pigs must be at least 12 months old at the time of slaughter.
I love “black pig.” In fact, ten years ago, I enjoyed Sicilian black pig, known as “Nero Siciliano,” in Taormina, Sicily. This breed is a domestic pig raised in the Nebrodi mountain range, which runs along the northeast coast of Sicily in the province of Messina.
We visited the Marché des Capucins yesterday and had lunch at Cochon Volant, located across the street from the market, next to CAMPET, a butcher shop renowned in Bordeaux for its traditional milk-fed lamb and duck cuts, including breasts, legs, wings, and fresh foie gras.
Cochon Volant offers a variety of dishes featuring Bigorre black pig. I opted for the ribs. They were excellent.
Cochon Volant’s pork ribs, Bordeaux, France
My favorite dish at Cochon Volant was the baked Camembert starter, served in a unique way. If I were to serve it to guests at home, I would prepare it as Cochon Volant: the cheese would be baked with crispy bacon on the side and accompanied by a side salad dressed with mustard vinaigrette, along with toast points topped with parsley and garlic persillade, as shown in the picture below.
Cochon Volant’s baked Camembert cheese, Bordeaux, France
Cochon Volant is a “shabby” French bistro. It is a neighborhood restaurant where one can enjoy French home cooking, particularly meat dishes, accompanied by a decent wine selection by the glass and or bottle.
For me, Cochon Volant was fun but just okay. If I spent the time to visit the Marché des Capucins, I would instead enjoy oysters at Chez Jean-Mi, an iconic restaurant specializing in oysters, seafood, and shellfish. Alternatively, I would visit Poulette le Bouscat, equally iconic, with its mussel bar inside the market or its lobster bar outside.
If I preferred to dine at a bistro, I would choose Au Bistro, as mentioned above. In fact, we enjoyed Au Bistro so much that when my wife’s old friend visited in December, after showing her the Marché des Capucins, we took her there so she could experience it.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 15
Cochon Volan Address: 22 Pl. des Capucins, 33800 Bordeaux Phone: +33 05 57 59 10 00
Brasseries in Bordeaux, France
Brasseries typically feature a larger, more elegant, and open-air setting. A great example of this is the iconic Le Grand Colbert in Paris, which serves traditional French cuisine. I use a 5-point rating system to compare the bistros I visit; you can find more details in my blog post titled “5-Point Restaurant Rating System.”
Below are the best brasseries in Bordeaux I found.
Brasserie Bordelaise
We visited Brasserie Bordelaise three years ago on our first visit to Bordeaux. We found the food decent, but the experience felt somewhat touristy given its central location. This time, we did not plan to visit. But several local sommeliers highly recommended this restaurant, praising its classic dishes from Southwest France and its extensive wine list. So, we decided to give it another try. This is what I discovered.
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “Charcuterie platter,” Bordeaux cracklings, Médoc granaries, Iberian sausage, chorizo, Cebo ham, Bordeaux, France
To begin, we shared Brasserie Bordelaise’s “Charcuterie platter,” which included Bordeaux cracklings, Médoc granaries, Iberian sausage, chorizo, and Cebu ham, as shown in the picture above. We paired the platter with Champagne, Paul Laurent Brut, and a Crémant de Bordeaux, Château Fonchereau.
“La Perle” oysters, No. 3 from OËL DUPUCH, oyster farmer in Cap-Ferret, Bordeaux, France, as shown in the picture below. The Perle is a plump, crisp oyster paired with a Melody, a Côtes de Gascogne moelleux.
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “La Perle” oysters, No. 3 from OËL DUPUCH, oyster farmer in Cap-Ferret, Bordeaux, France
For my main course, I selected the “Beef cheek Bordelaise style,” accompanied by mashed potatoes and roasted carrots, and paired it with a Château Richebon, Pauillac, 2019.
My wife selected the “Roast chicken from the Gruey farm in Pissos,” accompanied by rich jus, truffled stuffing, confit garlic, and dauphinoise potatoes, paired with a 2024 Château Perron, Graves.
Brasserie-Bordelaise’s “Roast chicken from the Gruey farm in Pissos,” rich jus, truffled stuffing, confit garlic, dauphinoise potatoes, Bordeaux, France
For dessert, we share the “French toast,” accompanied by salted caramel, vanilla ice cream (see the picture below), and paired with Audry, Fine Champagne XO, a blend of 50% Grande Champagne and 50% Petite Champagne.
Brasserie Bordelaise is a large, family-friendly French brasserie specializing in dishes from the Southwest of France, accompanied by an extensive wine list. In fact, it is the most family-friendly brasserie I have encountered during my stay in France.
The restaurant was filled with large groups of multi-generational families enjoying good food and drink while connecting. As a French friend remarked, “It is an easy place to visit; it is always exactly what you expect it to be.”
If you’re in central Bordeaux and looking for a family-friendly dining option, Brasserie Bordelaise is an excellent choice. It offers mass-produced, well-prepared, and presented gourmet versions of classic Southwestern French dishes in a lovely setting with a fun vibe, superb service, and an impressive wine list (English spoken if needed).
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Le Quatrième Mur’s Brasserie (English: The Fourth Wall) operates as a brasserie and a MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in the evening. Since we did not want to go at night (at this time), we visited the brasserie for lunch. So, I’m unable to share my thoughts on the MICHELIN 1-star experience, but I can share my thoughts on the brasserie.
Despite the beautiful setting, for us, the atmosphere felt more like a cafeteria, and the service seemed chaotic, even by Brasserie standards, but the wine-by-the-glass selections were good.
For my starter, my wife had the “Signature Entree”: mushroom fricassee ravioli, pan-seared foie gras, and a creamy mushroom sauce, pictured below. I had the “Fresh Mackerel”: flame-seared with blueberry relish, lemon cream, and tangy vinaigrette. Both were plated well and “yummy.”
The Fourth Walls’ “Signature Entree,” mushroom fricassee ravioli, pan-seared foie gras, and a creamy mushroom sauce
For her main course, my wife chose the “Roasted Pollock,” which was served with butternut risotto, seaweed relish, and a seafood emulsion. I ordered the “Pan-fried Pork Tenderloin,” accompanied by hazelnut Viennese pastry, a variation of Jerusalem artichoke with coffee, lemon/calamansi gel, and a rich coffee jus.
The main courses were plated well but lacked overall flavor and any “yumminess, so we pushed them aside. Due to the service being painfully slow and our disappointment with the main courses, we chose not to try the dessert. So I do not give Le Quatrième Mur a final score below.
As for Le Quatrième Mur, I can’t comment on it as a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant. However, as a brasserie, I don’t think it’s the best choice in Bordeaux; there are better options, such as MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants and Au Bistro, which I discuss below.
That said, Le Quatrième Mur was quite busy, and diners seemed to be enjoying themselves. Ultimately, it’s a matter of personal preference, so you might want to give it a try—you may enjoy it.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 2 Dessert quality: (Did not try, can’t comment)
No final Bonvivant365 score since not all factors were completed.
Address: Opéra National de Bordeaux – Grand-Théâtre, 2 Pl. de la Comédie, 33000 Phone: 05 56 02 49 70 https://quatrieme-mur.com/
Le Noailles
We were told that Le Noailles is hands down the most Parisian of Bordeaux Brasseries, at least that is what I was told. So, my wife and I had to try it.
One afternoon, we visited, and I began with oysters, while my wife ordered the gazpacho, which reminded us of “ready-made gazpacho” from a box with chopped fresh vegetables on the side.
Le Noailles’s “Carpaccio,” Bordeaux, France
Given the ambiance, vibe, service, and food quality, based on what we tried first, we decided it was best to cut our losses and leave. We will not return.
Casual dining falls between fast food and fine dining. These restaurants are themed and offer table service, along with a selection of cocktails, beer, and wine, or a combination of these beverages. I do not apply our 5-point restaurant rating system to casual dining (see my blog post “5-point Restaurant Rating System“)
Below are the best casual dining restaurants in Bordeaux that I found.
Peking Garden, Chinese Sichuanese Cuisine
The Peking Garden (French: Le Jardin Pekinois) is a casual Chinese restaurant specializing in Sichuan cuisine. This style of cooking originates from Sichuan Province in southwestern China. It is renowned for its bold flavors and generous use of Sichuan peppers, which can cause a numbing, tingling sensation when consumed in large quantities.
I ordered the beef and onions, pictured below, which is “épicé et pimenté” (English: spicy and hot). My eyes watered, my nose ran, and my face fell numb. It hurt to eat it, in a good way. I almost gave up. But then I channeled my inner “Doss” and thought, “Oh, Lord, let me take one more bite. Just one more bite, Lord,” and finished the entire dish, including all the Sichuan peppers —see picture below.
The Peaking Garden’s beef and onions, Bordeaux, France
I am not kidding. This is a fact. According to the “Google Oracle,” Szechuan pepper creates a unique sensation that is both numbing and tingling. This distinct sensory experience is caused by a compound called hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, which interacts with nerve endings to produce its characteristic buzz.
Peking Garden – Second Visit
Since I was in the area, I decided to return to Peaking Garden. I had the beef and onions again, but this time I started with the homemade fried chicken spring rolls, which were served with lettuce, mint leaves, and fish sauce. They were excellent, as shown in the picture below.
Peking Garden’s homemade fried chicken spring rolls with lettuce, mint leaves, and fish sauce, Bordeaux, France
Normandy cuisine is renowned for its “Four C’s”: Cider, Calvados, Cream, and Camembert. But after my time there, I would add a “Fifth C,” which is “Canard,” specifically referring to “pressed duck,” or “blood duck” (French: canard à la presse, canard à la rouennaise, canard au sang ), as pictured below. If you’re ever in Rouen, France, trying pressed duck is a must.
Café Victor’s Pressed duck, Rouen, France
Why is it called pressed duck
The recipe calls for a “duck press,” which is a device used to extract the blood and marrow from a duck carcass. This “fluid” is then utilized to finish the sauce. That’s correct—the bloody carcass of a duck is stuffed into a duck press and the blood and marrow are squeezed out. The fluid is then used to enrich the sauce accompanying the duck breast. Yummy! Particularly if your name rhymes with “psittacula.”
Pressed duck basic rules
Pressed duck is served throughout Normandy and in many restaurants around the world with some variation, but following four basic rules.
First, the duck has to be suffocated. You heard that right. The duck has to be suffocated. Crazy, right? Who would think of such a thing? Answer: the same people who gave the world foie gras: the French. Unlike the goose, the duck is not force-fed. But like the goose, the duck is killed by strangulation (asphyxiation).
Why? So the blood remains inside the tissues so that it can be squeezed out later, along with the marrow, by the duck press. You’ve got to love the French. They will do anything for a better meal or at least a more interesting dining experience.
Second, the duck must be cooked for only 17 to 20 minutes so it remains bloody.
Third, the duck limbs and breasts are removed and set aside, then returned to the kitchen for further preparation.
Fourth, the bloody duck carcass is cut up and stuffed into the duck press to extract the blood and marrow, pictured below.
Finally, the fluid is used to thicken the sauce (French: fond rouennais).
Duck press in action
Order of the Duckers
I did not make all this up. The recipe is codified by an organization called the “Ordre Des Canardiers” (English: “Order of the Duckers”), whose members’ sole purpose is to protect, preserve, and transmit the recipe for pressed duck and to maintain the integrity of its service.
The first class includes professionals who prepare and serve Pressed Duck in their establishments, known as “Maitres Canardiers.”
The second class is composed of “Ambassadors,” gourmets who appreciate the recipe and share the order’s objectives. There is also a third class called “Honorary Canardiers.” For instance, the mayor of Rouen is automatically designated as a Grand Honorary Canardier. (However, I don’t think I would want him or her to prepare and serve my Pressed Duck.)
The members of the “Ordre Des Canardiers” receive and wear a stylish medal featuring the order’s insignia. The “Maitres Canardiers” chefs wear this medal during tableside service.
Ordre des Canardiers’ medal insignia
Today, the “Ordre Des Canardiers” has members worldwide.
Where to find pressed duck
First, you have to decide where to get pressed duck. As mentioned above, pressed duck is served in fine restaurants all around the world by “Maitres Canardiers.” I was in Rouen, the “Holy See” of pressed duck.
In Rouen and its environs, four restaurants serve pressed duck: Le Café Victor, Les Capucines, La Couronne, and Le Restaurant Le Parc. Le Café Victor and Les Capucines are in Rouen proper, while La Couronne and Le Restaurant Le Parc are outside Rouen.
I had visited Les Capucines, founded in 1345 and famous as the restaurant where Julia Child had her first French meal. So, I chose Le Café Victor, and it turned out to be a wise decision.
Located in the Hôtel de Dieppe, open in 1880, Café Victor is right next to the Rouen train station. Many people, especially those from Paris, come to enjoy the famous pressed duck, and it truly is a remarkable experience.
Pressed duck requires a reservation
You can’t simply walk into a restaurant and order pressed duck. Once you’ve chosen where to enjoy pressed duck, it’s crucial to make a reservation, typically at least 72 hours in advance, though this timeframe can vary by restaurant. Generally, the minimum service and reservation is for two people. But this may differ by restaurant.
In my case, my wife wasn’t interested in going, so I decided to pay for two and go alone. I emailed Café Victor and followed up with a phone call. I was informed that the chef would return my call, which he did promptly. Together, we set a date and time for my visit.
Pressed duck mise en place
Mise en place is a French term that means “putting in place.” It refers to the preparation necessary before cooking. It is commonly used in professional kitchens to describe the organization and arrangement of ingredients ahead of time, which is essential to prepare and serve pressed duck, or any well-executed recipe for that matter.
The day of the service, my wife and I (my wife decided to go) walked over to Café Victor. When we arrived, we found everything had been prepared (French: préparation du nécessaire): the table selected, the serving cart deployed (see image below), and, of course, the duck press at the ready, off-camera stage right.
Café Victor’s pressed duck service cart (French: guéridon trolley)
The Bordelaise sauce (a.k.a. stock rouennais)
Above, I outline the “basic rules” for pressed duck. Besides the bloody duck and the duck blood, the Bordelaise sauce or “stock rouennais,” which is prepared ahead of time, is essential to the entire meal.
Bordelaise sauce is a classic French sauce named after the Bordeaux region of France, which is famous for its wine. The Bordelaise sauce serves as the base to which pressed duck blood and marrow are added to create the final sauce (fond rouennais). But in this regard, my understanding is that the recipe for Bordelaise sauce varies from chef to chef.
According to the “Order of the Duckers” website, the Bordelaise sauce for pressed duck is made by melting a small piece of butter in a thick-bottomed pan over low heat. When the butter melts and foams, add the shallots and sweat for 2 minutes until translucent. The pan is deglazed with Beaune wine, and thyme and bay leaf are added.
The mixture is reduced until it reaches a glaze, then seasoned with salt and pepper to taste. The sauce is set aside to rest for about an hour before the chicken hearts are pressed through a strainer (also known as a Chinois) and added (in the picture above, the Bordelaise sauce is in the little cast-iron pot, covered with a lid).
The Tableside Service (Show)
Everything was ready to go, and the chef came out and presented the partially cooked duck, known as the “Blood Duck.”
First, using just a carving knife and fork, the chef skillfully removed the legs, breasts, and other pieces of meat from the duck without using their hands, showcasing their carving expertise and leaving only a bloody carcass behind.
Second, the Chef flambéd a large glass of cognac, added the stock Rouennais, and heated it just below boiling. Then he squeezed the juice of half a lemon into the mixture, added seven to eight ounces (approximately 200 grams) of butter, and whisked until smooth.
Third, with the stock Rouennais formed, the chef cut up the remaining bloody duck carcass and pressed the pieces in the duck press to extract the blood and marrow (see the picture above). The extracted fluid, he added to the stock Rouennais discussed above, creating the final sauce called “fond Rouennais.”
The chef then exited stage left and returned to the kitchen with the cut duck meat for further preparation. In the kitchen, the breasts are cooked to medium-rare, and, according to the recipe, the wings and thighs are typically spread with mustard, breaded, and grilled. At Cafe Victor, they used the leg and thigh meat to create small skewers, spread with mustard, breaded, and grilled.
As we waited for the duck’s return, we were served a starter which we enjoyed. The Chef then returned to the table with the duck breast, an empty plate, one for each of us, which held the skewers, and a potato garnish.
He then delicately placed slices of the carved duck breast on each of our plates, and before I could say “Holey duck breast,” he used a ladle to smother, and I mean smother, the duck breast on each plate with the “fond Rouennais” and served.
The tableside theatrics were over, and now it was time for the moment of truth: we had to taste the pressed duck, smothered in fond Rouennais. There was no voiding the sauce. My wife and I each took a small piece of duck breast with our forks, slathered it with fond Rouennais, and trepidly raised it to our mouths, taking a bite. THE END.
Overall, for me, pressed duck, like sheep’s head, is a culinary trophy for true food enthusiasts. If you ever have the chance, consider giving it a try.
My wife and I spent one month in Strasbourg, France, exploring the city and its food culture. Below, I identify the best restaurants in Strasbourg, France, commonly referred to as Winstubs, as well as one other.
Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau
Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau was the first Winstub I visited in Strasbourg. The atmosphere and food are quintessentially Alsatian, and both the welcome and service were exceptional. Although it was a warm summer day, I chose to sit inside near a window to soak in the Winstub vibe alongside the French regulars rather than outside in the breezeway. I highly recommend this experience.
As a starter, I ordered the “Herring fillets marinated lentil salad.” My wife ordered the “Tomato gazpacho with basil.” For her main course, my wife ordered the “Homemade chicken paupiette with mushrooms, gravy, and sautéed potatoes.” A paupiette is a piece of meat that has been beaten thin and rolled with a stuffing of vegetables, fruits, or sweetmeats. I ordered the “Rabbit confit with olive oil and ratatouille,” see the picture below.
Winstub Au Pont Corbeau’s “Rabbit confit with olive oil and ratatouille,” Strasbourg, France
For dessert, we shared the “Alsatian rhubarb tart with meringue” and the “Rhubarb compote, strawberries, mousse de fromage blanc, crumble.”
Chez Yvonne was the second Winstub I visited in Strasbourg. Like “Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau,” the atmosphere and food are quintessentially Alsatian. It has a downstairs and upstairs section. Both are beautiful.
They initially tried to seat me in the upstairs section, which was lovely. I could imagine how enjoyable it would be during a busy winter day with the Christmas market in full swing. However, I insisted on sitting downstairs in the main section with the French regulars, where all the action was happening. I highly recommend this experience.
For my starter, I ordered the “Homemade goose foie gras marinated in Cognac and Vendanges Tardives wine, with toasts.”
My wife ordered the “Young Rooster cooked at low temperature with cream and mushrooms, spaetzle” for her main course. I ordered the smoked “Braised knuckle, sautéed þotatoes,” as shown in the picture below. For dessert, we shared the “Kouglof with Marc de Gewurztraminer” and “Alsatian Cherry Tart.”
UPDATE: I am now in Bordeaux, France, attending the CAFA Wine School (see my post titled “Go to Wine School in Bordeaux, France“). As I read and revise this post, my mouth waters at the memory of the smoked “Braised Knuckle” from Winstub Chez-Yvonne. It was the best braised knuckle I have ever had, and I would love to have it again.
Winstub Chez-Yvonne’s “Braised Knuckle,” Strasbourg, France
While we were enjoying our lunch, we noticed that a few French locals were being served a special off-menu dish called Bouchée à la Reine (The Queen’s Bite). It looked delicious, so we spoke to the chef and placed an order for it for the following week. We then returned to the restaurant.
“Bouchée à la reine,” or the “The Queens Bite),” is a classic French dish. It is an individual “vol-au-vent” puff pastry bowl filled with various ingredients, bound by a thick sauce, as shown in the image below.
Winstub Chez Yvonne’s “Bouchée à la reine” (The Queens Bite), Strasbourg, France
A vol-au-vent is created by cutting two circles from rolled-out puff pastry. One of these circles has a hole cut out of its center, forming a ring. This ring is then placed on top of the solid circle and baked. The final result is a light, hollow case made of puff pastry.
Patisseries like Naegel in Strasbourg sell vol-au-vents that you can take home and fill with your choice of ingredients, such as soup (Think of Boudin‘s, a historic sourdough bakery in San Francisco, which offers sourdough bread bowls.)
Patisserie Naegel’s vol-au-vent, Salsbourg, France
Restaurant Chez Tante Liesel was the third Winstub I visited in Strasbourg. It is tiny, located in Petite France, the main tourist section of Strasbourg. But Quintessentially Alsatian. It is run by a husband-and-wife team and their daughter, who commands the front of the house. There are many typical Alsatian dishes from which to choose. The service is pleasant and casual.
To start, I ordered the “Alsatian snails (Schneke).” My wife ordered the “Caramelized onion tart with lardons.” For her main course, my wife ordered the “Salade d’après pot-au-feu,” a slow-cooked beef in bouillon served over a green salad with vinaigrette dressing, cornichons, carrots, and sautéed potatoes (see picture below). Think American pot roast served on top of a salad. My wife loved it. I ordered the “Choucrouterie garine (Saurcroaute): meats accompanied by knack sausage, gendarme sausage, smoked lard, salted lard, a slice of pork rack, and boiled potatoes.”
Winstub Chez Tante Liesel’s “Salade d’après pot-au-feu,” Strasbourg, France
For dessert, we shared the “Alsacian apple pie with crumble” and the “Alsacian cheesecake made with fromage blanc.” Both were excellent.
Restaurant Les Chauvins is not a “typical” Winstub. The Chef takes classic Alsatian dishes and transforms them into tapas.
My wife and I ordered and shared “Saucisson du moment (Bergkäs ou Munster… selon arrivage) de la boucherie Degert, Pickles,” “Grumbeerekiechle et bibeleskäs (4 pièces),” Fleischkiechle mini-burger style with Lapoutroie fresh cheese,” “Hot-dog alsacien (2pièces),” “Fleischschnäcke et raifort (5 pièces),” as pictured below, Asperges blanche d’Alsace, sauces maison (5 pièces), “Gratinée à la tomme bio, lard et oignons,” “Au munster, lard et oignons,” the “Kougelhopf façon pain perdu, fruit du moment et boule de glace,” for dessert.
Winstub Les Chauvins’ “Hot Dog Alsacian,” Strasbourg, France
I enjoyed my experience at Restaurant Les Chauvins. It was a lot of fun, and the food was decent. I came away with many great ideas for serving family and friends. The chef also owns “Ô 30 restaurant,” considered by many to be the best Afro-fusion cuisine restaurant in Strasbourg, France.
Wistub Brenner is located in Colmar, France, not in Strasbourg. If you’re spending time in Strasbourg, you can easily take a train to Colmar, which takes about 26 minutes.
Colmar is a beautiful and charming town, although its center has been transformed into a shopping area, similar to many other picturesque towns.
I can only spend about an hour and a half walking around and taking pictures in a place like this. After that, I need to find lunch. Similar to other tourist towns, Colmar is filled with restaurants that seem to be tourist traps, at least judging by their reviews.
Wistub Brenner is recognized online and has even been featured in the Michelin Guide as a “Selected Restaurant” in Colmar. Given its high recommendations, Michelin endorsement, a Google rating of 4.3, and its central location in “La Petite Venise,” I decided to give it a try for lunch. The reservation was easy to make online. The Winstub offers pre-fix menus for lunch.
Winstub Brenner’s “Famous Munster Cheese Salad with Pork Filet,” Colmar, France
My wife ordered the “Starter and Main,” while I chose the “Starter, Main, and Dessert.” The highlight of the meal was the “Famous Munster Cheese Salad with Pork Filet” (see pictures above and below). I’m not entirely sure why it’s called “famous,” but I appreciate the concept as it inspired me with ideas for hosting family and friends.
It is a large cheese stick, much like the American mozzarella cheese stick, invented by Wisconsin cheesemaker Frank Baker and served at restaurants across the United States. The French fry a variety of cheeses, such as Camembert and Saint-Marcellin, that are often accompanied by a salad. So, I imagined this to be the famous Alcase version.
When prepared properly, this dish can serve as either a starter or a main course, paired with a glass of wine, and accompanied by a variety of cheeses, such as breaded Camembert and Saint Marcellin, and served with a salad.
The inside of Winstub Brenner’s “Famous Munster Cheese Salad with Pork Filet,” Colmar, France
The outdoor seating was lovely on a warm July day. It’s first-come, first-served, so arrive early if you want to sit outside. The meal was expensive for the quality, but Wistub Brenner provided a welcoming atmosphere, comfortable seating, and excellent service in a location away from the overcrowded tourist restaurants in Colmar.
My wife and I traveled to Dijon, France, for four weeks. Whenever we decided where to have lunch or dinner, I always referred to the “MICHELIN Guide” to find the restaurants in Dijon. In this case, I zeroed in on “Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN Restaurants“
The MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants are named after Bibendum, commonly known as the Michelin Man, the mascot for the Michelin Group. In the MICHELIN restaurant rating system, they are above MICHELIN “Selected Restaurants ” and below MICHELIN 1 Star. MICHELIN Bib Gourmands are defined as good-quality, good-value cooking. Experienced foodies and lovers often refer to these establishments as “Fat Boys.”
MICHELIN 1-, 2-, and 3-Star restaurants are incredible; I visit them occasionally. However, my visits have decreased since I attended cooking school in France. My culinary instructor, who once ran several 1-MICHELIN-Star restaurants, often said, “MICHELIN Star restaurants leave ‘all the taste on the check.'” I don’t find that to be true for MICHELIN Bib Gourmands. I have discovered that they perfectly embody the idea of the “Gastronomic meal of the French,” recognized as an intangible UNESCO cultural heritage. These restaurants offer excellent food, atmosphere, and service at a fair price.
What is the alternative? Let’s take a look at TripAdvisor. As of the time of this post, the list of “The 10 Best Restaurants in Dijon” on TripAdvisor includes “Foodies,” “Vauban Cellar,” “It Trattoria,” “Five Guys,” “New School Tacos,” “Starbucks,” “Elmas Kebab du Stade,” “La Cabane à Burger Dijon,” “French Tacos,” “Quick Dijon Gare.”
Apart from “Vauban Cellar,” which seems to have a rockin’ wine selection and outdoor seating in “Liberation Square,” I find this list puzzling. Don’t get me wrong; I enjoy pizza, hamburgers, and tacos like anyone else, and I appreciate them as a refreshing break from French cuisine on occasion. But when traveling, my eating philosophy is “When in Rome,” meaning I prefer to eat local cuisine in the country I’m visiting.
Well, you say, ask, “Have you tried Gault&Millau?” Sure, I have. I believe Gault&Millau practices the philosophy of the “Friend to all, enemy to none approach.” Every restaurant and food joint seems to get some level of “Participation trophy.” There are so many listed per toques levels that it is hard to define a selection.
All of this is my own opinion, of course. And you know what they say about opinions, don’t you? I had lunch at all the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Dijon. There are four of them. This is what I experienced:
MICHELIN Bib Gourmand Restaurants in Dijon
SPICA
SPICA was the first Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
SPICA offers three-course lunch and dinner menus that change regularly.“ Each menu features a variety of options at every course, including “Entrée + Plat + Dessert.” They also have daily suggestions. Like Cave below, SPICA does not list specific menu items on its website.
As an apéritif, we ordered a “Cremant of Burgundy,” which is a sparkling wine from Burgundy made using the traditional Champagne method.
We were served an amuse-bouche, which was excellent.
For her starter, my wife selected the “Tomato soup, balsamic reduction, stracciatella, speck ham, olive oil, basil.” I selected the “Green bean salad, poultry liver mousse, and raspberry vinaigrette.” SPICA offers an excellent wine-by-the-glass menu featuring Premier Crus. So we ordered wine by the glass to taste various Burgundies.
For my main course, I selected the “Boneless chicken thigh, organic tricolor quinoa, seasonal vegetables, and lemon cream,” pictured below. My wife selected the “Fish of the day.”
I had the “Plate of 3 cheeses from Porcheret.” The Porcheret Cheese Factory is one of the area’s most famous cheese dairies, with a nearly century-long family history. The cheeses are aged in the cellar located just below the store, and the shop showcases almost 200 different products. It is a must-visit when in Dijon.
We shared the “Creain cheese terrine with vanilla beans, strawberry-rhubarb sauce, rhubarb sorbet.”
The food was well-prepared, presented, and yummy. At 27 euros for a three-course meal, SPICA represented the spirit of Bib Gourmand.
SPICA is one of the best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my third choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.
L’Évidence was the second Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
Since the weather was nice, we stopped for an apéritif at La Brasserie des Loges. They offer Burgundy Premier Cru by the glass. My wife ordered a white wine, and I ordered a Campari Spritz.
L’Évidence offers two—or three—or four-course lunch menus that change regularly.“ Each menu features a variety of options at every course and provides daily suggestions. The menus are regularly updated on the website.
We were served an amuse-bouche, which was excellent.
My wife ordered the two-course menu, which included a choice of “Entree + Main” or “Main + Dessert.” She chose the main and dessert. I chose the three-course menu, which included “Entree + Main + Dessert.”
I ordered the “Homemade parsley ham, mustard, whipped cream, red onion pickles” as a starter, pictured below. Parsley ham (Jambon Persillé De Bourgonne) is a traditional Eastertide dish from Burgundy. Think “SPAM® Classic.” Enjoy it and practice the sausage principle: “If you love something, never find out how it’s made,” John Oliver, British comedian.
The classic recipe for Burgundy Parsley ham includes ham, knuckle of veal, calf’s feet, Bouquet Garni, peppercorns, and white wine. I told you not to ask. It is served all year long. Not just during Easterdite.
L’Évidence’s “Parsley ham”
My wife ordered the “Fish of the day, Madras curry sauce” for her main course, and I ordered the “Rack of veal cooked at low temperature, sliced jus with hazelnut butter.” The chef’s special of the day was “sweetbreads.” I know what you are thinking – a giant sweet French pastry for lunch. The French are so cool! No, these are not delicious French pastries made from sugar and bread.
Sweetbreads are the culinary term for the thymus gland of calves, veal, or lambs (a.k.a. organ meat higher up on the body than “Rocky Mountain oysters”). They are sometimes referred to as throat, gullet, or neck sweetbreads. The term “sweet” refers to their richer and sweeter flavor compared to typical meats, while “bread” comes from an old English word, “bræd,” which means flesh.
When I first dabbled in gastronomy in the early 1990s, I always enjoyed sweetbreads. Today, I do not care for the thought of them or their texture, but I did learn to prepare them during my French culinary school training. You can poach, sauté, or deep fry sweetbreads. If I were to serve sweetbreads, I would deep-fry them and serve them as a starter, accompanied by a yummy sauce such as Dijon mustard sauce, gribiche sauce, or maybe just ketchup (I’m only kidding). But then perhaps a homemade barbecue sauce (mmm).
I added the “Plate of 4 cheeses from our region” to try local cheese.
My wife’s menu included “Cherries, namelaka dark chocolate, crumble” for dessert. I selected the “Almond shortbread, strawberries, vanilla diplo nat, mint gel” from my menu choices.
L’Évidence was the most expensive of the four Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurants. But it was perfect and worth the visit—the dishes were executed flawlessly.
L’Évidence is one of the Best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my second choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.
Cave was the third Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
Cave Restaurant is the baby brother of its big sister, CIBO, Chef Angelo Ferrigno’s 1-star MICHELIN restaurant just across the street.
Like its big sister, Cave serves creative, modern food and is committed to sourcing its ingredients locally, exclusively within a 200km radius. It offers a simple yet elegant three-course menu with a fixed set of dishes created by the chef, served to everyone at the table. I could not find the menu on the website, so I am unsure how often it changes. I suppose we could call to find out what was offered before going. But we did not. So for us, it was like a chef’s surprise menu.
As is my usual practice, my wife and I arrived early so that I could choose our seats, which is not always possible. In this instance, I could select two seats at the counter, only four of which overlook the small galley kitchen.
The restaurant features one chef and server, making “mise en place” crucial. (Mise en place is a French culinary term that means “putting in place” or “gathering.” It refers to the organization and setup required before cooking.) Watching the chef and server work is akin to watching a ballet unfold.
Cave served Morava ham as an amuse-bouche, see picture below.
Cave’s Morvan ham amuse-bouche
Morvan ham (“Jambon du Morvan”) is a “Historic” Burgundy ham made from pigs raised in the Morvan mountain range in Burgundy-Franche-Comte, France, approximately 63 km west of Dijon.
Dry salted, seasoned, and matured in the maturing cellars for 9 to 18 months, the ham gives it its distinctive aromas and taste. One of the oldest and most noted producers is Fernand Dussert, a founding member of the “Jambon du Morvan association.” Follow the association on Facebook HERE.
On a side note, an alternative to the traditional Burgundy parsley ham described above (See “L’Évidence”post) is Morvan parsley ham (“Jambon Persillé du Morvan”), which is made by marbling Morvan ham with parsley and garlic, flavored with Aligoté white Burgundy wine, and coated with a light jelly.
The “Chef’s Surprise” lunch menu included:
Cave’s “French green bean salad of Mr Vachon, Burgundy mozzarella sorbet,
and dried beef”Cave’s “Saône catfish of Simon Collin served with grilled spring onion, cauliflower puree, and fermented cream sabayon sauce”Cave’s “Strawberries of Jean Luc Valliot served with fresh panna cotta, flouve and raspberry ice cream”
Mr Vachon, Simon Collin, and Luc Valliot are the local growers or sources. Flouve is an aromatic spirit infused with Flouve Odorante, “Sweat vernal grass,” with a distinctive, pleasant scent of freshly cut hay. The Saône is one of the many rivers running through the Val de Saône, approximately 35 km from Dijon. It is full of trout, pike, carp, or catfish.
The entire dining experience was, as the French would say, parfait! Or simply, super! It was the best three-course meal I have ever had for just 30 euros, and one of the finest Bib Gourmand restaurants I have ever encountered. I enjoyed it so much that I made a reservation for next week at CIBO. I will provide an update here afterward.
If I lived in Dijon, I would go whenever the menu changed. Cave is one of the best restaurants in Dijon, France, and is my first choice for a Dijon Bib Gourmand MICHELIN restaurant.
SO was the fourth Bib Gourmand restaurant I tried in Dijon.
A husband-and-wife team operates the restaurant. He is the chef, while she manages the front of the house. The menu is straightforward and affordable. There is a three-course menu, which includes “Entree + Main + Dessert,” or a four-course menu, which provides for “Entree + Main (Fish) + Main (Meat) + Dessert,” or you can order à la carte. You can also add a cheese plate. Each stage featured a choice between two starters, two main courses, and two desserts. In situations like this, we usually order one of each to sample everything. So, we ordered the “Entree + Main + Dessert” menu.
We were not served an amuse-bouche.
For starters, we shared the chef’s variation of the classic “Oeufs en Meurette” (Poached Eggs in Red Wine Sauce), a traditional Burgundy dish. In this case, the chef presented a poached egg nestled in a bowl of smooth pea velouté, accompanied by a quenelle of pepper cream and the black pudding (a.k.a. blood sausage), potato puree, and salad, pictured below.
SO’s “Black pudding (a.k.a. blood sausage), potato puree, and salad.”
Blood sausage is precisely what its name suggests—sausage made from thickened and encased animal blood, which can come from pigs, sheep, lambs, cows, chickens, or geese. I have always avoided blood sausage, but I decided to try it since it was the only other entrée option available. The taste was okay, but I didn’t like the consistency. The salad was welcomed. The dish’s presentation sparked a conversation between my wife and me about how to serve sausage to our guests.
For the main course, we shared the catch of the day dish and a pork tenderloin dish. The pork was cooked perfectly, lightly pink inside—the way the French eat it. For dessert, we shared a panna cotta infused with Earl Grey tea and topped with exotic fruits and a clafoutis with apricots and Chantilly cream.
Overall, I was not very impressed with the restaurant. It felt like too many shortcuts were taken, especially with the sauces. The dishes seemed like something I could have made at home before attending cooking school. On a positive note, the three-course meal cost was only 24 euros each, so I can’t complain too much, aside from the fact that it felt like a waste of calories. We spent more on wine than on the food itself.
The most intriguing aspect of my experience at the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in Dijon was not what I discovered but what I did not find. Many Burgundy dishes were absent from the menu, including classic Oeufs en Meurette, Burgundy Snails, Gougères, Foie gras and gingerbread paring, beef bourguignon, Coq au vin, poulet Gaston Gérard, Rabbit in Mustard Sauce, and poulet de Bresse, which is regarded as the best-quality table chicken in the world (imagine the perfect trifecta: Bresse chicken stuffed with Foie gras and gingerbread).
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