I spent one month in Strasbourg, France. While many people recommend visiting the city’s iconic historical sites, such as Petite France, Strasbourg Cathedral, and the Alsatian Museum—all of which are worth exploring—my focus is on food, wine, and play. Below is a brief list of my recommendations for what to do in Strasbourg, France.
Enjoy Flammekueche (Tarte flambée) at Le METEOR
The Germans call it Flammkuchen, while the French refer to it as Flammeküche or tarte flambée. It’s half tart and half pizza.
The story goes that in feudal times, French peasants used a communal oven, known as a Four Banal, to bake their bread. To test the oven’s temperature, they would place thin slices of bread inside. Instead of wasting this “test” bread, people began adding toppings to it and sharing it as a meal. Thus, Flammkuchen was born. However, it faded into obscurity until the revival of pizza in the United States in the 1960s brought it back into the spotlight.
When done well, Flammkuchen is delicious. When done poorly, it is disgusting. I have had both. The first was at the main Christmas market in Toulouse, France, situated at Place du Capitole (Le Grand Marché de Noël), which features over 100 chalets, an ice rink, and beautiful Christmas lights. Le METEOR in Strasbourg makes Flammkuchen right and offers both savory and dessert Flammkuchen.
The traditional savory Flammeküche is made with thin, unleavened dough rolled out into a rectangle and spread with crème fraîche or fromage blanc; in my opinion, fromage blanc is the best choice. It is then topped with thinly sliced onions and lardons before being baked at a high temperature in a wood-fired oven.
The result is a crispy texture with slightly burnt edges. It is then cut into squares and served piping hot. To eat it, take a slice, roll it, and take a bite. Flammekueche is meant to be shared among friends and eaten with a glass of local Riesling or a beer (Alsace is France’s leading brewing region).
The traditional Flammekueche is a bit boring. The French prefer to eat it with cheese, which is called “Flammekueche gratinée.” Typical cheeses are Emmenthal, Gruyère, or Raclette. I agree and find this the best way to enjoy it.
Once you’ve finished the savory Flammeküche, and not before, Flammeküche is intended to be served and eaten hot. Order the sweet Flammeküche for dessert. Done right, dessert Flammeküche is made with thinly sliced apples, crème fraîche, or fromage blanc, and sprinkled with cinnamon immediately after baking. Then, it was brought piping hot to the table and flambéed with Calvados, as shown in the image below.
Many places in Strasbourg offer Flammeküche, which, like pizza, comes with a variety of toppings. For the best experience, resist the urge to try new variations and stick with the classic Flammekueches mentioned above.
In terms of casual cafes, I found Le METEOR Flammeküche to be superior. If you’re looking for a more restaurant-like vibe, consider checking out my post “Best Restaurants in Strasbourg, France,” and visiting Restaurant Les Chauvins.
Le METEOR
Address: 10 Rue du 22 Novembre, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 65 66 30
https://www.lemeteor.fr/
Feast on typical Alsatian food at a Winstub
A winstub is a restaurant that serves traditional Alsatian foods. I visited the best winstubs in Strasbourg. See my post, “Best Restaurants in Strasbourg, France.”
As a side note, when you’re in Strasbourg or anywhere in Alsace, you may come across a unique wine glass with a green base and long, slender green stem, known as the “Ballon d’Alsace” (pictured below). The story behind this glass is that Alsatian wine used to be of poor quality and had a greenish hue. To combat this perception, Alsatian winemakers served their wines in these glasses, claiming that the green tint in the wine was a result of the glass itself. Today, these glasses have become more of a novelty and are commonly used in traditional Alsatian cafés, winstubs, and festivals.
Get your turophile on at Maison Lorho
There is only one AOC cheese in the Alsace region of France, Munster, also known as Munster-géromé or (Alsatian) Minschterkaas, depending on which side of the Vosges Mountains you are standing. AOC translates to “controlled designation of origin,” a classification system in France that is applied to specific products, such as wine and cheese.
In terms of the origin of Munster cheese, the story goes that a long time ago, hundreds of monks crossed the Vosges Mountains from Gérardmer. Why do you ask? I don’t know. Maybe, like the chicken, to get to the other side? They founded Saint Gregory Abbey, also known as the “Munster Abby.”
The town that developed became known as “Munster” from the Latin word monasterium, meaning a monastery or a church. Anyway, somehow, the monks created a recipe for making Munster cheese and shared it with the local population. People like it, so it stuck.
The impression is that Munster is a “stinky cheese” with a strong odor. It is not the case when you eat fresh Munster cheese in Alsace or Strasbourg, since the cheese is fresh and has not aged much. I also found this to be true of Époisses cheese in Burgundy. You can purchase a variety of Munster Cheeses at Maison Lorho, including “Fume,” or smoked Munster cheese.
The “other” famous cheese from Alsace is Tomme d’Alsace, Alsace Tomme, a soft cheese made from cow’s milk, which is also available at Maison Lorho. There are a few lesser-known Alsatian cheeses also available. You can build a custom cheese box for you to take away any cheese you like (as pictured above).
But be cautious not to accidentally touch the counter where cheese is cut, as I did. This mistake resulted in a public reprimand from the staff. To make matters worse, another customer—an elderly French lady—joined in and began yelling at me as well. I apologized to the staff, told the lady to “mind her own business,” (She laughed in my face), and quickly left the store.
Maison Lorho
Address: 3 Rue des Orfèvres, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 32 71 20
https://www.maison-lorho.fr/
Go on a worthwhile chase at George Bruck Foie Gras
I have gone on many “wild goose chases” in pursuit of good gastronomy, but Georges Bruck’s goose foie gras is a pursuit worth taking. In Strasbourg, France, Georges Bruck is regarded as the “Rolls-Royce” of foie gras.
Foie gras has its origins in ancient Egypt, but it was the Romans who introduced it to Gaul, which is now present-day France. In ancient times, before the establishment of modern France, this region was known as Gallia and was inhabited by a Celtic people called the Gauls (Anyway, I digress.)
According to popular accounts, Jean-Pierre Clause, the chef for the governor of Alsace, created the first foie gras pâté in the late 18th century in Strasbourg. As a result, “Strasbourg foie gras” gained fame throughout France and spread across the country, including to southwestern France, where duck foie gras production began to take hold.
Today, around 98% of goose foie gras is still made in Strasbourg, making it the “Goose Foie Gras Capital of France.” Meanwhile, Sarlat, located about 2 hours and 20 minutes by train from Bordeaux in the Dordogne Valley, is recognized as the capital of duck foie gras production in France.
Once, over 60 foie gras companies operated in Strasbourg. Today, Maison Georges Bruck is the only family-owned foie gras company from Strasbourg that remains, now managed by the fifth generation. There are several methods for cooking foie gras, including searing in a pan, using a water bath, semi-cooking at 70°C, sealing in a can, or thoroughly cooking at 90°C to 100°C, depending on the maker, and sealed in a jar.
Semi-cooked foie gras is smoother. Maison Georges Bruck offers both goose and duck foie gras in various formats, along with everything you need for pairing, except for fresh fruits. My personal favorite is semi-cooked goose foie gras (Pictured below). However, I enjoy all forms of foie gras, whether from duck or goose, whether seared or prepared in a water bath.
George Bruck Foie Gras
Address: 7 Rue Friese, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 32 62 62
https://www.bruck-foiegras.com/
Ham it up at Avellina
Hamming it up at Avellina bakery in Strasbourg, France, is no joke. Theo, a young pastry chef, along with his chef girlfriend (whom I did not meet), makes the best ham sandwich in Strasbourg, France (as pictured below). Theo claims that they are made fresh every day. However, to ensure I always ask for one from the front of the case.
Avellina
Address: 62 Grand’Rue, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 06 89 08 39 26
https://www.avellina.fr/
Hire withlocals guide Atreyu to show you around
When I travel to a new town, I prefer hiring a local guide to show me around. I’m not a fan of structured group tours for various reasons. Instead, I look for a private tour guide who can tailor the experience to my interests. For example, I might give them a list of foods I want to taste or ask where the locals go for specific activities.
In Strasbourg, France, I found the best guide named Atreyu. He claimed to be a history buff and a foodie, so I decided to put him to the test. He exceeded my expectations by providing the perfect customized tour that included food, wine, beer, and entertainment in Strasbourg. I highly recommend withlocals guide Atreyu.
Build, buy, or partner with Porcus for Choucroute garnie
According to Jeffrey Steingarten, author of the book “The Man Who Ate Everything,” authentic Choucroute Garnie, also known as Choucroute Garnie à l’Alsacienne, is made with braised sauerkraut topped with various cuts of pork. But there is no definitive recipe, only traditions.
I found that Porcus offers the best selection of choucroute garnie in Strasbourg, with the broadest range of options. You can purchase the sauerkraut and various cuts of pork individually to build your own or opt for a preconfigured “Garniture Choucroute” package. Alternatively, you can enjoy choucroute garnie at Porcus’ restaurant.
I purchased sauerkraut and multiple cuts of pork from Porcus and created my own Choucroute Garnie à l’Alsacienne, as pictured below. It included sauerkraut and cuts of pork: Knack d’Or, Cervelas Alsacien, Poitrine Fumée Cuite, Palette Fumée Cuite, and Saucisse Fumée Cuite.
Instead of boiled potatoes, I served Porcus’ “Salade de Pomme Terre,” potato salad, because it was July and hot. Potato salad is more refreshing. I served additional sauerkraut and potato salad on the side, along with Riesling mustard (“Moutarde Riesling”), a blend of sweet mustard and Riesling, and a ready-to-use mild horseradish (“Raifort Doux”).”
Choucroute Variation #1: Sauerkraut with Duck Confit
A delicious variation of Choucroute (sauerkraut) known as sauerkraut is “Choucroute “au confit de canard, sauerkraut with duck confit (pictured below). It’s easy to make at home, enjoy, or serve to guests.
Choucroute Variation #2: Sauerkraut with three fish
A second delicious variation of Choucroute (sauerkraut) is known as sauerkraut with three fish. This dish was created by Guy-Pierre Baumann, who once owned the Kammerzell House, situated at the foot of the Strasbourg Cathedral. From what I can tell, essentially, the dish is Sauerkraut with three river fish filets, salmon, and white fish laid on top, then baked in the oven. I would make the sauce by reducing the fish with a cup of fume. Riesling is then thickened with a liaison, using a ratio of 4 parts cream to 1 part egg yolks.
From what I can tell, essentially, the dish is Sauerkraut prepared with fish fume, with three thin poached fish filets layered on top: one salmon and two white fish, each layer and the final dish smothered in sauce. The dish was delicious, so I recreated it to enjoy at home and with guests.
To prepare this dish at home, I start by making a fish fumet, also known as fish stock. Next, I make the sauce by sweating shallots in a bit of butter for about two minutes. Then, I add a cup of fish stock and dry Alsace wine, reducing the mixture by half. After that, I strain the sauce and return it to the saucepan, thickening it with a tempered liaison made from a ratio of 4 parts cream to 1 part egg yolks. I set the sauce aside and keep it warm.
Second, I warm the prepared sauerkraut and set it aside. Third, I gently poach the fish fillets in fish stock and set them aside to drain. To serve, I place the sauerkraut in a bowl, layer the fish on top, cover it generously with the sauce, and finish with a garnish. For the fish, I chose fresh from my local fishmonger, with delicate flesh and a mild taste.
Porcus
Address: 6 Pl. du Temple Neuf, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 23 19 38
https://www.porcus.fr/
Find the beef at Starling Burgers
“Where’s the beef?” You can find it at Sterling Burger in Strasbourg, France, hands down the best hamburger in the city. Everything that goes into a Sterling Burger is handmade in-house (pictured below), except for the hand-cut French fries, which are sourced from a small, family-owned business in the Netherlands (I believe).
I ordered mine “blue” like the French (pictured below). But Starling will prepare it anyway you like.
Starling Burgers Centre
Address: 7 Rue Hannong, 67000 Strasbourg
https://www.starling-burgers.com/en/
Have a smashing time at Junk
I discovered Junk Smash burgers in Lyon, France, and was glad to see that they made it to Strasbourg. Junk takes a minimalist approach to its ingredients, resulting in a perfectly balanced flavor.
I recommend starting with the small Smash Burger straight up (pictured below). No additions (pictured above), which include a smashed beef patty, melted American cheese, and homemade Junk sauce, all encased in a soft brioche bun. It is the perfect expression of Junk’s minimalist approach to ingredients, resulting in an ideal balance of flavors. Junk is, by far, the best Smash burger in Strasbourg, France.
Junk STRASBOURG
Address: 9b Rue des Frères, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 09 55 76 75 46
https://www.junkburgers.com/
Listen to my barber and eat more salad at Café de l’Ill
This is a wild card.
Last month, while I was in Dijon, France, I visited a barber several times. He spoke very little English, and my French is almost nonexistent.
Nonetheless, I managed to convey to him that I had gained 20 pounds since arriving in France. He responded in French, “Tu dois manger plus de salade,” which means “You need to eat more salad.”
As it so happened, a few weeks later, as I was walking around Strasbourg, I stopped at Café de l’Ill in the tourist center. Usually, I wouldn’t choose to stop at a place like this, but it was hot, I was tired, and they served wine. So, I decided to sit down.
I noticed the person next to me was eating a salad. It looked decent, so I checked the menu and saw that the “side salads” were priced at either €3.50 or €4.50. I decided to order the one for €4.50, which included various vegetables (as shown in the picture below).
I couldn’t say this is the “best salad in Strasbourg.” Frankly, I eat very little salad, so I would never search for, nor find, the “best salad in Strasbourg.” However, I bet it’s the best “budget-friendly salad” in the city.
Or, as I like to say, “Mikey likes it!” This is a shoutout to my friend Mike, the “cheapest man I have ever known,” who once proudly bragged that he never spent more than 10 euros on a meal.
Café de l’Ill doesn’t have a website and, like many tourist spots in the city center, tends to receive mediocre reviews overall. But the service is good, the wine is wet, and the salad is a bargain. Mikey likes it!
Café de l’Ill
Address: 9 Pl. du Marché-aux-Cochons-de-Lait, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 23 22 74
Roll your pizza at 22 mai
As I mentioned earlier, “I love French food, but I occasionally need a change.” Sometimes, only a pizza will do. But not just any pizza. I have been to Italy over 25 times (and we will go there next, after France, for wine and cooking school). I am always on the lookout for the best Neapolitan pizza, which is the traditional round pizza typically prepared in the Italian city of Naples and characterized by a soft, thin dough with high, burnt edges. Hands down, the best “Neapolitan pizza” in Strasbourg is found at 22 mai.
Not cheap. A Margarita with spicy Italian ham added will cost you 20 euros. But it is equal to or greater than any Neapolitan pizza I have ever tried.
22 Mai Pizza
Address: 2 Grand’Rue, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 06 87 52 33 57
https://www.22maipizza.com/
Satisfy your sweet tooth with blueberry tart and more at Naegel
Naegel is the best bakery in Strasbourg, France (in fact, “Avellina Baker Theo,” mentioned above, apprenticed here). They offer a wide range of items, but I found their “Tarte aux myrtilles,” a blueberry tart, to be exceptional (pictured below).
Naegel is famous in Strasbourg, France, not only for its pastries but also for its savory tort, made of veal, pork, mushrooms, and flan encased in puff pastry (pictured below). It’s more of a winter dish, but my gluttonous curiosity made me need to try it. Maison Naegel tort would be terrific served with a salad tossed with Thomas Keller’s Classic Vinaigrette. A pâté version is also available.
Finally, as if a blueberry tart, a savory veal, pork, and mushroom flan, and a torte were not enough, Naegel makes excellent “vol au vent puff pastry shells” (pictured below) that, if you ask nicely, you can buy, take home and fill with anything you like (they use them instore to serve their dish).
What comes next is, as far as I know, my creation. In Burgundy, ” Oeufs en meurette, eggs poached in red wine and served with a sauce bourguignonne (a red wine sauce), is a classic starter. It is also served throughout Lyon, France, as I highlighted in my post “Best Bouchons in Lyon, France.” Of course, it is made with Rhone Valley wine.
I digress, in Burgundy, they also make another version of Oeufs en meurette called “Œufs meurettes à l’époisses,” which consists of poached eggs floating in a melted mixture of Époisses cheese, white wine, and cream, which I have made and love (as pictured below).
So, my idea was to make an “Alsatian version,” that I call “Œufs meurettes à la Munster fumé,” using smoked mustard cheese, Resling wine, and cream for the “cheese sauce” served in a Naegel “vol au vent puff pastry shell” topped wth a poached egg (as pictured below). It was delicious.
Additionally, you can purchase “vol au vents” from Naegel and fill them with “soup à la maison” (homemade soup) or even store-bought soup. Pictured below is my “Cream of mushroom soup à la maison” from Auguste Escoffier served in Maison Naegel’s “vol au vent.”
Naegel
Address: 9 Rue des Orfèvres, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 32 82 8
https://www.maison-naegel.com/
Snap a memory from the Barrage Vauban
I stood on the observation deck of the Vauban Barrage, a dam in Strasbourg, France, and took a moment to capture the city in a photograph (pictured below). I almost overlooked this experience, but once I realized my mistake, I hurried over in the mid-afternoon, which is the best time to take the picture because the sun is behind you. I was grateful that I took the time to enjoy Strasbourg from this perspective.
Barrage Vauban
Address: Pl. du Qur Blanc, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 52 28 28
https://www.visitstrasbourg.fr/en/things-to-see-and-do/visiting/places-to-visit/historical-sites-and-monuments/F223005692_the-vauban-dam-strasbourg/
Take a break from French food at the Great Wall Restaurant
I love French food, but occasionally I need a change. For me, Chinese cuisine does the trick, so I make it a point to discover the best Chinese restaurant in every town I visit. In Strasbourg, the top place for Chinese food is the “Great Wall Restaurant,” which is even open on Sundays. However, the service can be inconsistent; at times, it’s excellent, but other times, it can be lacking or even rude.
Ordering à la carte can be pretty expensive, as we typically spend an average of €60 to €80, excluding drinks. However, we usually order enough to have leftovers to take home. During the week and sometimes on weekends, the restaurant offers a three-course “menu du jour” for €14.95. This menu includes an appetizer, a dish of the day—typically chicken served with a generous portion of white rice—and a dessert, usually fresh fruit. Please note that the staff may not mention this menu, so it’s essential to ask for it if interested.
Great Wall Restaurant
Address: 29 Rue du Vieux-Marché-aux-Vins, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 22 11 67
Taste Alsatian wines at Le Comptoir des Vignerons Alsaciens
Le Comptoir des Vignerons Alsaciens is a chic wine store situated in the heart of Strasbourg, where guests can enjoy wine tastings.
Almost every day, a different local winegrower visits to offer a tasting for just 8 euros. This is a fantastic opportunity to meet Alsatian winegrowers and sample their wines. They also offer “Themed Tastings & Events,” including regional focuses and organic and biodynamic showcases, which are detailed on their website or TripAdvisor page.
The day we visited, we sampled five wines from François Bleger and met the owner’s granddaughter (pictured above). For the tasting schedule, please check their website.
Le Comptoir des Vignerons Alsaciens
Address: 10 Pl. Gutenberg, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 88 10 11
Take your honey for a cake at Pain d’épices Mireille Oster
Gingerbread dates back to ancient Egypt and was introduced to Alsace by monks in the distant past. I am a fan of gingerbread only insofar as to select the best to serve with Foie Gras.
Whilst on my travels in France, I visited Mulot & Petitjean’s gingerbread factory museum in Dijon, France; Pains d’Epices Fortwenger, and Pain d’épices Mireille Oster in Strasbourg, France.
Mulot & Petitjean’s transitional gingerbread is made solely with ginger and honey, without additional spices, making it a perfect pairing with foie gras. I found Pains d’Epices Fortwenger gingerbread to be too sweet and not to my taste. Pain d’épices Mireille Oster’s traditional gingerbread is made with seven spices (picture below), and it is hands-down my favorite of the three.
Pain d’épices Mireille Oster’s traditional gingerbread pairs perfectly with foie gras or is delicious on its own, right out of the bag. It is the most expensive of the three, but I think it is worth the extra cost.
Pain d’épices Mireille Oster packages its traditional, seven-spice gingerbread as bite-sized squares in a bag or as a loaf. I bought the loaf for foie gras and a bag for a snack (pictured below). The small-sized squares were like potato chips; I couldn’t stop eating them. I finished the entire bag that afternoon—so much for my diet.
Pain d’épices Mireille Oster
Address: 14 Rue des Dentelles, 67000 Strasbourg
Phone: 03 88 32 33 34
https://www.mireilleoster.com/en/accueil/
Visit the oldest in the world aged in a barrel
The oldest white wine aged in a barrel lives in Strasbourg, France, at the Cave Historique des Hospices de Strasbourg. As a self-proclaimed oenophile, I went to pay homage. Admission is free (picture below).
The wine has only been served three times in the past five centuries, but can no longer be drunk. The staff told us that the last person who tasted the wine died a day later in a plane crash (Urban myth?).
Nonetheless, several years ago, they attempted to save the wine by transferring it to another barrel, but the effort was unsuccessful. I guess they should have drunk more of it when they had a chance. As Ernest Hemingway said, “My only regret in life is that I did not drink more wine.”
