My wife and I are attending wine school in Bordeaux. We decided to stay in the Chartrons neighborhood for nearly six months because it’s only a 10-minute walk to the school.
I explored every nook and cranny, searching for the best restaurants in Chatrons and places to eat, which I outline below, and end with things to do.
As I write this, it’s 9 AM, and the bells of Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons, located just a block from our Airbnb, are ringing to signal the start of Mass.
Chartrons, once the hub of the wine trade in Bordeaux, is now a family-friendly district filled with artisan workshops, boutiques, cafes, and rich history, especially along Rue Notre-Dame. We’re located at the corner of Rue Notre-Dame and Rue Latour, right in the heart of the neighborhood.
On a weekday morning, as we head to school around 8:45 AM, the atmosphere is magical. It reminds me of the scene in “My Fair Lady,” where the market slowly comes to life. The streets are bustling with people as they begin their day, heading to school or work. The locals in Chartrons are friendly, and I often stroll from shop to shop, engaging with the store owners. This neighborhood has become one of my favorite places to live, and I will miss it.
Basque taco, Marché des Quais
The “Basque taco stand) (as I call it) can be found at the Marché des Quais, also known as the Chartrons Quays Market, which is open from early Sunday morning until early afternoon. The Quays is the waterfront walkway along the Garonne River. The market begins approximately at the intersection of Rue Latour and Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux. It is located just across the street in the Garonne River Run area, stretching a few blocks toward the Cité du Vin.
The stand serves “Basque Taco,” or “Talos con Chistorra” (which means Corn Tortillas with Sausage in English). It’s a Navarran corn tortilla filled with sausage, cheese, and, I think, onions and peppers. They taste amazing.
UPDATE: My wife went to the market today and brought home a “Talos con Chistorra” for us to share and an entree before we made lunch. I cut it in half and plated it so you could get a better look. It was delicious even as a takeaway.
Bistro, Bistrot Maurice
Bistrot Maurice is just a few blocks from where we go to wine school. We walk by it all the time. Today we decided to give it a try. I am sure glad we did. It was, hands down, one of the best bistro experiences I have had in France since we arrived in August 2024.
Bistro Maurice is a classic French bistro serving traditional dishes in a relaxed, cozy atmosphere. A sidewalk terrace is available, along with indoor seating. The first room is small and quintessentially bistro-like, with a few tables and the kitchen, where all the action takes place. The second room is a newly designed, beautifully appointed dining area located in the adjacent hotel. We opted to sit at the counter in the first room, which lets you look directly into the kitchen, creating a chef’s table experience.
Bistro Maurice offers three typical lunch menu options: a starter and main course, a main course and dessert, or a starter, main course, and dessert. My wife chose the main course and dessert. I chose the starter, main course, and dessert. For my starter, I chose the mussels, straw potatoes, and celery stalks (see the picture below), paired with a white Bordeaux, which complemented the dish nicely.
For her main course, my wife chose “Maurice’s Caesar Salad,” a giant, tasty Caesar salad with a fried chicken filet that she could eat every day for lunch (see the picture below).
For my main course, I chose the half duck breast, served with sweet potato puree and figs. The duck was cooked to perfection, see the picture below. I paired it with a glass of red wine from the Médoc. You can’t get a more classic French bistro dish.
Next came the cheese plate, as shown in the picture below, which I paired with a Chardonnay from Marcon.
The dessert was a millefeuille of apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, which I paired with a Tawny port. Millefeuille, which translates to “a thousand leaves,” refers to the layers of puff pastry stacked between various fillings. This dessert is also commonly known as a Napoleon or custard slice. Bistro Maurice’s millefeuille was served more like a custard slice, with a filling between two puff pastry layers, as shown in the picture below.
The dessert was a millefeuille made with apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, which I paired with a Tawny Port. Millefeuille, which translates to “a thousand leaves,” refers to the layers of puff pastry that are stacked with various fillings. This dessert is also commonly known as a Napoleon or custard slice. At Bistro Maurice, the millefeuille resembled a custard slice more than a traditional version, featuring filling between two layers of puff pastry and “icing,” as shown in the picture below. It was perfect.
We had a fantastic experience at Bistro Maurice. The atmosphere, ambiance, and service were all excellent. From the moment we entered, the staff were warm, friendly, and accommodating, making us feel right at home. The wine options and the staff’s suggestions, available by the glass, were perfect. The presentation and plating had a lovely bistro feel. The food was delicious—Paul Bocuse would be proud. The dessert was creative and exceeded our expectations for a bistro.
Cafe Maruice, second visit
Wine school ended early today. My wife suggested we go back to Bistro Maurice. Well, you do not have to ask me twice. So we raced to Bisto Maurice and got our favorite counter spot overlooking the small, busy kitchen. It was better than the first time. Here is what we had:
Bistro rating:
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 5
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 5
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 5
Bonvivant365 score: 23
Bistrot Maurice
Address: 1 Quai de Bacalan, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 43 16 01
https://www.bistrotmaurice.com/
Bistronomique, Luna
My wife and I went to Luna in Chartrons for lunch, a small bistro that offers bistronomic cuisine, a style that combines traditional bistro elements with high-end gastronomy. The menu features quality dishes made from fresh, local ingredients while maintaining the relaxed, friendly atmosphere typical of a bistro. It was a wonderful dining experience.
The wine-by-the-glass menu at Luna is impressive for a small bistro, which allowed me to work with the front-of-house staff to find the perfect wine pairing for my meal while exploring selections from all over France. My wife decided not to have wine during lunch because she needed to return to wine school.
As an aperitif, I began with Château Lauduc Crémant Lauduc Rosé Pétillant, a sparkling wine made from Cabernet Franc, produced in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, which paired well with the amuse-bouche we were served—a single, bite-sized hors d’œuvre consisting of slow-cooked meringue filled with a flavorful beetroot purée.
For her starter, my wife ordered the “Bluefin Tuna,” served Tataki-style, with a furikake condiment and a radish salad, as pictured below.
I chose the “Perfect Egg,” served with a green vegetable ragout, potato foam, and peanuts (pictured below), paired with Domaine des Allegrets Côtes de Duras Blanc, a Sauvignon Blanc from the Southwest France wine region.
For the main course, I had the “Pork Belly,” served with miso eggplant, fig condiment, and pork jus (pictured below), paired with Domaine Vial-Magneres Le Petit Couscouril rouge, primarily made from Grenache Noir and blended with Syrah and Carignan.
Domaine Vial-Magnères is a family-owned property located on the seaside in the communes of Banyuls and Port-Vendre, France. The wine had a brilliant garnet color, with a nose of black fruit aromas, including strawberry, cherry, and raspberry, along with hints of plum and fig. The spicy character of Grenache Noir was evident on the palate, with a balanced, persistent finish. It paired well with the pork belly.
My wife had the “Market Catch,” which consisted of roasted hake served with pea purée and a lemongrass-coconut broth, pictured below.
For dessert, we shared a “Williams pear” with orange zest Bavarian cream, accompanied by a ladyfinger biscuit and vanilla ice cream (see picture below), paired with Domaine Semper Vintage Maury, and followed by Pâtes de Fruits—a well-executed “chef’s dessert.”
Finally, I am puzzled as to why Luna is not recognized as a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant. In our opinion, it is on par with Racines by Daniel Gallacher, as well as the more gastronomic Panaille or Kedem, all of which are MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants we visited in Bordeaux, see my post “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.”
We enjoyed our experience at Luna so much that when my wife’s long-time friend visits us in December, we plan to take her there as well. If you’re considering a visit, be sure to use the website to make a reservation. Luna is small and always packed.
Luna second visit
We liked Luna so much that when a friend visited us in Chartrons, we brought them there for dinner. Some dishes were the same, but there were plenty of new ones too. I won’t list everything, but the meal was just as good as our first visit, maybe even better.
MICHLINE Selected Restaurants rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5
Presentation and plating: 4
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 4
Bonvivant365 score: 23
Luna, Restaurant Bistronomique aux Chartrons
15 Rue Albert Pitres, 33000 Bordeaux
https://luna-restaurant-bordeaux.com/
Brookie, Paola
Paola in Chartrons is just one block from our Airbnb. We watched them renovate the space and open it two weeks ago. Paola is a small bakery full of personality and potential. My wife absolutely loves Paola’s “Brookie,” a combination of a chocolate chip cookie and a brownie.
Unlike the classic brookie made in a baking pan and cut into squares, Paola’s “brookie is shaped like a cookie” (I rhymed—LOL).
If you visit Chartrons, stopping by Paola and trying their brookie or other delights is fun.
Address: 21 Rue Notre Dame, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 09 83 34 53 93
https://www.paolapatisserie.com/
Brunch, Les Halles Bacalan
Les Halles Bacalan is a market located in Chartrons, Bordeaux, featuring over 20 different food stalls. Some stalls offer counters with seating, while others do not. Additionally, tables and chairs are available throughout both the indoor and outdoor areas, where you can enjoy your meal. The concept is straightforward: you can choose any food you like and sit in any available spot in the open seating area.
One of our favorite stalls is Les Requins Marteaux, which specializes in seafood and offers a variety of delicious options. One of my personal favorites is their “Shrimp and Avocado Salad,” as shown in the picture below.
We also love Les Requins Marteaux razor clams, pictured below.
And anchovies, pictured below.
Empanada, Au Bon Goût Latino
I was walking around Chartrons, searching for plates to eat that I hadn’t tried before. I stumbled upon Au Bon Goût Latino, a food truck located behind the “Place Paul Doumer” tram stop. I was excited and curious. I enjoy food trucks and have a particular fondness for Latin American cuisine, so I stopped by to give it a try.
The USA has many food trucks, and I can tell you that some have a more overall appealing vibe than others. From the start, I could tell that Au Bon Goût Latino was a quality food truck akin to those found on the North Shore of Hawaii. It was well-designed, open, and clean.
Au Bon Goût Latino specializes in Peruvian empanadas and arepas, among other offerings. Empanadas are golden-brown Latin American pastries filled with seasoned beef, chicken, pork, and other ingredients- think portable American pot pies. In the Au Bon Goût Latino case, they also feature spinach, tuna, and lasagna.
That’s right—Au Bon Goût Latino makes empanadas filled with classic lasagna, which includes spicy minced meat, mixed with ham, pasta, and tomato, and béchamel sauce, as shown in the picture below.
I have tried many empanadas in the past, but have often been disappointed. Generally, the pastry-to-filling ratio is unbalanced, resulting in an insufficient amount of filling. However, that is not the case with Au Bon Goût Latino’s empanadas, which are generously filled, resulting in a perfect balance between the dough and filling. They are delicious.
I had to try their lasagna empanada (pictured below) because it was a novel and creative concept. I took home Au Bon Goût Latino’s Chicken Aji Empanada. This Peruvian classic is filled with shredded chicken simmered in a creamy ají amarillo (a non-spicy sauce), walnuts, bread, and spices, and comes with a garlic-and-cilantro sauce on the side. I plated it at home, as shown in the picture below. It was delicious, and the sauce was excellent, satisfying my craving for flavors beyond French.
Finally, the staff operating the truck are lovely, friendly, and accommodating, which creates a perfect experience. So, if you are walking around Chartrons, seek out Au Bon Goût Latino and buy an empanada, an arepa, or a few to try. You will be glad that you did.
UPDATE: I found Au Bon Goût Latino behind the Chartrons Place Paul Doumer tram stop, but they are not there very often. Most of the time, you can find them at the corner of Cr de la Martinique and Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux. It is located just across the street in the Garonne River Run area.
Au Bon Goût Latino
Pl. Paul Doumer
33000 Bordeaux
https://aubongoutlatino.fr/menu/
Cake, La Maison de Blanche
Who doesn’t love cake? La Maison de Blanche makes the best chiffon cakes I have ever tasted, even better than those I made in pastry school. Each is perfect for eating alone or for sharing, as pictured below.
I found the “Sunflower” particularly noteworthy, as I have learned to make my own version in pastry school. However, my genoise wasn’t as light and airy as I’d hoped. When I inquired about their secret, I was told it relates to the ratio of whipped egg whites to egg yolks and the oven temperature, but the specific details were not shared. La Maison de Blanche also offers crowd-pleasers like “Snickers” and “Tiramisu,” among others.
La Maison de Blanche also makes ” Mon cœur.” Mon cœur literally means “my heart,” in French, an affectionate term to use with a loved one. In the “pastry world,” it is a cold pastry shaped like a heart. La Maison de Blanche also makes an excellent “Mon coeur.”
La Maison de Blanche features a counter and offers tables, allowing you to enjoy your cake on-site with a beverage or take it to go.
La Maison de Blanche
Address: 37 Rue Camille Godard, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 07 69 56 55 92
https://lamaisondeblanche.com/
Chicken Ceaser Salad, Molly Malones
Molly Malone’s features tables both inside and out, offering attentive, efficient service and well-portioned food. I often order the “Fish and Chips,” while my wife usually chooses the “Chicken Caesar Salad,” which, in my opinion, is the best Caesar salad we have found in France (and we have been in France for over a year and traveled all over), see the picture below.
I’m not saying it’s gourmet, but I would describe it as a classic American Caesar salad—if that’s even a thing. Molly’s offers more than just Caesar salad. I’ve also tried the fish and chips and the steak with fries; both were just as they should be. I plan to sample more dishes for lunch soon.
Another good option is Molly’s “Chicken Wrap,” as shown below. It resembles a Caesar salad but is served in a slightly toasted wrap and accompanied by fries.
Other good options for “Chicken Caserr Salad,” in Chartrons are:
Chicken Caesar Salad, Bistro, Maurice
Chicken Caesar Salad, La Tradizione
Molly Malones
Address: 83 Quai des Chartrons, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 87 06 72
Duck Trilogy, Chez Dupont
Chez Dupont, a typical French Bistro, is located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, and is just 20 meters to the left of my front door. They have an indoor area and a sidewalk that, on a good day, allow you to enjoy the vibe of Chartons.
For our starter, we shared the “Grilled Artichoke Flower,” which featured a grilled artichoke served with Iberian ham and shavings of fresh duck foie gras, all accompanied by a duck jus reduced with old wine vinegar, as shown in the picture below. I really enjoyed it and found it to be a creative dish that I would recreate and serve to guests at my home.
For my main course, I chose the “Auros Fat Duck Trilogy,” featuring fattened duck from the PALMAGRI cooperative, served in three ways: a duck chop, a skewer of aiguillettes, and pan-fried foie gras (see the picture below). Again, I enjoyed it and found it to be a creative dish that I would recreate and serve to my guests at home.
My wife selected the Chicken Caesar salad, which was not “dressed to impress” and underwhelmed. See the picture below. In my opinion, Molly Malone’s, Bistrot Maurice, or La Tradizione, all outlined in this post, all make a better Chicken Ceaser Salad.
Chez Dupont is a classic French bistro. The ambiance was an “ok” vibe since we had to sit on the “overflow” seats on the corner. Service can be inconsistent, at least in our case. Wine-by-the-glass choices are average. Presentation and plating were fun, and I enjoyed the starter and the lamb dish. The Chicken Caesar salad was subpar, in our opinion (Pictured above).
I live less than a block away from Chez Dupont, and I can confirm that it is always crowded, especially on beautiful days, and everyone seems to be having a great time. So if you live in the Chartrons neighborhood or are planning to visit, it may be worth stopping by to sit outside, share a starter, sip on a glass of wine, and watch the people passing by.
However, if you plan to visit, I suggest making a reservation on their website. If you would like to be seated on the terrace, indicate this in your reservation or send a separate message to the restaurant.
Additionally, I would suggest that you specify you would like to sit “under the big awning of the restaurant itself,” rather than at the “flimsy” table and chairs they place in the exposed corner across the street to handle overflow.
Restaurant rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 4
Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 15
Chez Dupont
Address: 45 Rue Notre Dame
Phone: 05 56 81 49 59
https://www.chez-dupont.com/en/
Falafel, Delights of Damascus
Delights of Damascus is a Syrian-owned, family-run business in Chartrons. We visited and had many dishes, but the Delights of Damascus “Falafel Tacos were the highlight. The Falafels are huge. It’s a plate you can share.
My favorite restaurant in the Bordeaux city center that celebrates the flavors and spices of the Middle East is “Kedem .”Check out my post titled “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.” My favorite falafels in Chartonns can be found at CASA GAÏA, listed here.
Delights of Damascus
Address: 85 Cr Balguerie Stuttenberg, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 0765884644
https://www.delicesdedamas.com/
French Hamburger, Moelleuses et Persillées
Moelleuses et Persillées is a steakhouse in Chartrons that makes the best burger I have found in Chartrons or Bordeaux, for that matter.
They call it the “M&P Burger.” It features a homemade sweet potato bun made with beef fat instead of butter. The patty is made with aged beef and is topped with raclette cheese, homemade sauce, romaine lettuce, tomato, fresh onions, and guanciale. Fries are served on the side.
The burger is excellent, with a rich, creamy taste and mouthfeel. It pairs well with a glass of Bordeaux wine. Sometimes, Moelleuses et Persillées swaps the beef patty for shredded beef marinated in their homemade barbecue sauce. I like the sauce and ask for it on the side, even with the regular patty.
Moelleuses et Persillées
Address: 65 Quai des Chartrons, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 87 60 82
https://www.moelleuses-et-persillees.fr/
Colette Burgers
Colette Burgers “Colette” is my second favorite burger in Chartrons.
The “Colette” is served on a soft potato bun with Aubrac beef steak, grilled bacon, mature cheddar, raclette cheese, candied tomatoes, onion confit, pickles, lamb’s lettuce, and Collette cocktail sauce.
The burger strikes a good balance of sugar, salt, and fat. The Aubrac beef steak is well seasoned and very tender, with a rich flavor that melts in your mouth. Paired with the sweet onion confit, candied tomatoes, and Colette’s cocktail sauce, it all comes together for an excellent burger.
Colette’s Burgers originated in Bordeaux, where it now has three locations, and has since expanded throughout France. They offer seating, beer, and wine, and options for chicken sandwiches and salads.
Colette’s Burgers
Address: 23 Cr Portal, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 48 11 78
https://www.lesburgersdecolette.fr/
PNY Chartrons
PNY Chartrons is my third favorite burger in Chartrons.
PNY originated in Paris and is inspired by New York hamburgers, which is how it got its name, Paris New York (PNY). It also serves fast food appetizers, such as corn dogs, onion rings, and jalapeno poppers, as well as sides like loaded fries. It feels like an American hamburger joint lost in France. They offer seating, beer, and wine, and options for chicken sandwiches and salads.
PNY offers a variety of burgers. I tried the “GOLDEN STATE OF MIND,” flame-grilled PNY minced steak, old-fashioned melted cheddar, iceberg lettuce, beefsteak tomato, pepper sauce, and wholegrain mustard.
PNY claims that its bun recipe comes from the founders’ grandmother in Ohio and that it hand-cuts its fries to ensure freshness.
I must say that PNY’s bun was perfect, and the burger was delicious. My understanding is that PNY burgers are flame-grilled at 650°C and come with a “secret sauce” that is a bit spicy.
PNY is very busy, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation online if you plan to visit. We tried walking in last weekend, but we were turned away because they couldn’t accommodate any more tables or orders.
Finally, if you are not French but want to look French while enjoying your hamburger, remember to eat it with a knife and fork, as the French do; otherwise, everyone will know you are a tourist.
PNY Chartrons
Address: 10 Pl. du Marché Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 24 72 31 61
https://restaurants.pnyburger.com/burger-bordeaux-chartrons/
Italian Sandwich Panuozzo, PAB Bordeaux
PAB Bordeaux serves the best Italian sandwiches, known as Panuozzo, in Chartrons, Bordeaux. They just opened about the time we arrive in Chartrons.
A Panuozzo is an Italian sandwich made with pizza bread, stuffed with meat and vegetables. It was invented in 1983 by the pizzaiolo Giuseppe Mascolo, from the comune of Gragnano, near Naples, Italy, and was first adopted in the region of the Monti Lattari.
PAB Bordeaux is owned and operated by Leo. The sandwich shop is small, with just a few tables, and offers beer and wine; most people take their sandwiches to go. Leo outsources the pizza bread, made with type 00 flour, ensuring a delicate, light crust that remains soft and chewy on the inside. All the meats are imported from Italy.
PAB offers several different sandwiches, and I have tried the PAB and the PAPI. The PAB is filled with herb ham, Fior di Latte mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, and rocket. “Fior di latte” is an Italian term meaning “flower of milk.” In Italian cuisine, it refers explicitly to a fresh mozzarella cheese made from cow’s milk.
The PABI is filled with Mortadella, fior di latte mozzarella, homemade pistachio pesto, cherry tomatoes, and rocket. Both were excellent.
PAB Bordeaux’s sandwiches are fun and yummy.
PAB Bordeaux
Address: 80 Cr Portal, 33000 Bordeaux
Dolomite Pizza’s “Pannozo Deli Mama”
Another, but very different Italian sandwich option is the “Pannozo Deli Mama” sandwich from Dolomite Pizza in Chartrons. This sandwich features jambon blanc with truffle, basil pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, arugula, and a creamy Gorgonzola sauce, all packed into crispy focaccia bread. See the picture below. I enjoyed it a lot, but my wife did not due to the gorgonzola sauce. I would prepare it at home with a Parmesan cheese sauce to appeal to a broader audience.
Local Bar, Le Chartronnais
Le Chartronnais is a French bar for locals that opens as a bar, transforms into a “Bistro” at lunchtime, and then back into a bar. The owner told me that”Le Chartronnais” has been around for 100 years and that a 95-year-old man born above the bar still visits.
Le Chartronnais is open Monday to Friday from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. If you stop by at 7:30 in the morning, you’ll see people already having drinks. By lunchtime, the place turns into a bistro packed with locals, offering a menu of various options at very fair prices, prepared by a competent chef, with decent wine by the glass.
The food is simple French fare and tastes as it should. The eggs, steak, and all were good, but the French toast was well-made with vanilla and cinnamon, served with vanilla ice cream, Chantilly cream, and creme anglaise and toasted almonds—a fine meal for under 20 euros.
I like “Le Chartronnais,” it is like Cheers, “Where Everybody Knows Your Name.” I have not found another place like it in Chartrons.
Not many tourists visit, so if you go, be respectful, consider your impact, and follow the rules, such as being served on their schedule. Do not be surprised if you feel welcomed but a bit out of place.
There aren’t many bars in France that serve good food (more common in the U.S.A.). Le Chartronnais is the exception and as such is highly rated as a BAR.
Bar rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4
Presentation and plating: 5
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 5
Bonvivant365 score: 23
Le Chartronnais
Address: 73 Cr Portal, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 87 12 26
Modern Kitchen, Pickles
Pickles is one block from where I live, so we went there twice this week to eat. Once for dinner and once for lunch. For dinner, we sat inside; for lunch, we sat outside.
The ambiance and vibe are okay, and the staff are very friendly. But the service is sloppy, detracting from the experience. But no one seems to notice. Pickles is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner (a clear plus), and it always seems crowded.
Pickles’ wine-by-the-glass list is generous, featuring four whites, four reds, a rosé, a sparkling wine, and a sweet wine. The prices are fair. They also offer beer and an excellent selection of cocktails. I ordered a Negroni this week, which was well-made and reminiscent of those I had in Florence.
The menu is small, but the “yummy quotient” is high (see my post, “5 Point Restaurant Rating System“). The dishes are well-presented and plated. Between the two visits, we essentially tried all the menu items. Below is a picture of the “Pan-fried Mussels with Thai Coconut and Coriander Sauce” I had for lunch today.
Pickles is open every day, which is a real plus. It is definitely worth a visit, but it’s essential to set your expectations for the service (at least based on my experience this week). Its menu is made to share. You can start with small plates, then move on to the fish or steak platters. The desserts are fine. However, if you plan to visit during peak hours, I advise making a reservation online.
Restaurant rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 17
Pickles
Addresses: 15 Rue Notre Dame, 33000 Bordeaux
Phones: 05 56 48 01 70
https://picklesbordeaux.com
Organic Woodfired Gastronomy, CASA GAÏA
CASA GAÏA is just to the right of my front door. I can see it from my living room window. For a long time, I avoided it because it advertises itself as “organic,” which, in my experience, often means the food doesn’t taste as good. But after running out of new places to try in Chartrons, I finally gave it a shot. I’m happy I did. The food was delicious—one of the best restaurant experiences I’ve had in Chartrons. Here’s what I ordered:
Casa Gaïa’s “Piece of Veal” was perfectly prepared, and the polenta fries were crispy, which is hard to get right. It was delicious.
I called my wife, she came over, and ordered the “Bowl de la Casa.” The Falafel was excellent. Better than “Délices de Damas,” I mentioned above.
Casa Gaïa’s “Pumpkin Tart” was a terrific modern interpretation of classic pumpkin pie. It was very healthy and not too sweet.
CASA GAÏA has a great atmosphere and a fun vibe, and the service is excellent. The wine-by-the-glass choices are better than most. Presentation is simple and has a bistro feel. The food is delicious, and the desserts are also a step above. I highly recommend CASA GAÏA.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 4
Bonvivant365 score: 21
CASA GAÏA
Address: 16 bis Rue Latour, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 52 87 21
https://www.casagaia.fr/
Japanese Ramen, FUFU
FUFU Cours Portal is a traditional Japanese ramen bar that serves authentic Japanese dishes, including ramen—bowls of broth with homemade noodles—as well as fried pork cutlets, fried shrimp, and side dishes like stir-fried vegetables, and gyoza, dumplings filled with pork and vegetables and wrapped in a thin dough, see the pictures below.
It is located in Chartrons and is just two blocks from our Airbnb, so we visit it frequently. We always sit at the counter. The restaurant is owned and operated by a first-generation Cambodian couple and their two children, who were born in France.
The atmosphere is friendly and neighborly, reminiscent of a quaint noodle bar in Sendai, Japan (my wife’s mother was from Sendai). Fufu Cours Portal has become our go-to restaurant for Japanese ramen in Bordeaux.
We like to start with an order of Gyoza, also known as pot stickers, pictured above. These originated in China, where they are called “jiaozi,” but have become a popular dish in Japan.
We also like and order the FUFU’s “Yasai Itame,” a small plate of spicy wok-fried vegetables, pictured below.
FUFU can be a bit salty but still good. We have tried many other dishes, such as:
There are several FUFU locations across France. We have also visited the FUFU in Toulouse and Lyon. In Bordeaux, there are two locations: one near us in Chartons and the other in the city center.
The downtown location is more traditional, with a counter in front of the cooks that resembles a “chef’s table.” The FUFU Course Portal also has a counter; however, the kitchen is located to the left and is visible through glass, allowing you to observe the cooking process from a distance.
FUFU Cours Portal (Chartrons)
Address: 71 Cr Portal, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 83 41 49
ttps://restaurantfufu.com/nos-restaurants/
Lasagna, La Tradizione
La Tradizione’s lasagna is my favorite lasagna on Chartrons.
La Tradizione is a casual Italian restaurant featuring traditional decor, specializing in Neapolitan-style pizzas and pasta dishes, and their “Lasagna” is simply perfect. It is the kind of lasagna I love: cooked to perfection with meat, bechamel, and mozzarella, and generously covered in sauce, as shown in the picture below.
We began our meal with Bruschetta and a mixed dish of fried calamari and shrimp, both of which I thought were excellent. My wife ordered the chicken Caesar salad, which was terrific and rivaled the one Molly mentioned earlier (see picture above).
While many dishes impressed me, the lasagna truly stole the show; it was the best I have had in France over the past year. In Chartrons, I have sampled lasagna at two other restaurants, but La Tradizione stands out as the best.
As I looked around, everyone was ordering the pizza. It also looked perfect. We plan to try La Tradizione’s pizza next. I will advise as soon as possible.
La Tradizione
Address: 6 Pl. Paul et Jean Paul Avisseau, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 33 05 16 87
Cosi Si Mangia
Cosi Si Mangia is my second-favorite lasagna in Chartrons.
Cosi Si Mangia, an Italian deli (takeaway only) located in the Chatrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, is conveniently close to my home. The deli features a small counter offering a variety of prepared foods. It is situated right next to the wine shop that I visit regularly, which has always piqued my interest in trying their lasagna.
Today, I purchased the last piece. I brought it home and plated it, see image below. It was made traditionally and was good, but I would have preferred a bit more sauce.
Cosi Si Mangia
Address: 30 Cr Portal, 33000 Bordeaux
Marcellino
Marcellino’s lasagna is delicious, but I prefer La Tradizione’s version because it is generously covered in a tomato-based sauce. I would describe La Tradizione’s lasagna as more of an “American lasagna,” with more sauce and cheese than a traditional Italian version.
In contrast, Marcellino’s lasagna is likely more authentically Italian, with less sauce overall. If you prefer lasagna with less sauce, Marcellino’s might be a better choice. However, if you enjoy Marcellino’s lasagna but would like more sauce, you can always request extra on the side.
Marcellino
Address: 6 Pl. Paul et Jean Paul Avisseau, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 54 78 69 64
https://pastificio-marcellino-bordeaux.fr/fr
LasagnA
Lasagna’s lasagna gets honorable mention.
It is French-style and emphasizes béchamel sauce, unlike La Tradizione’s lasagna. If you prefer French lasagna, then LasagnA is the better choice.
LasagnA offers various lasagna options at a fair price, each served with a side salad. These include vegetarian, salmon, chicken, and bolognese, among others. They also have a location in the Bordeaux center.
LasagnA
Address: 23 Rue Notre-Dame, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 09 87 52 05 25https://www.lelasagna.fr/
Macaroni and cheese is the definition of comfort food, and Moelleuses et Persillées make the best I have found in Chartrons.
Macaroni and cheese, Moelleuses et Persillées
Moelleuses et Persillées make two kinds of Macaroni and cheese, using Cavatappi pasta: “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola cheese and black truffle,” and “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola.” Both are downright decadent and great with a steak or as a takeaway snack at home.
Leftover Moelleuses et Persillées’ macaroni and cheese that I took home and is plated to show the Cavatappi pasta that is cooked perfectly al dente.
Cavatappi comes from southern Italy and is named after the Italian word for “corkscrew.” Cavatappi is a hollow, spiral-shaped pasta measuring about 1 inch long. Itin length, and sometimes features ridges or grooves on its surface. The famous pasta brand Barilla calls this shape Cellentani in honor of the famous Italian singer Celentano from the 1960s
Mediterranean, Oriental, Asian, Papouch
Papouch is located in the heart of Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. We went to Papouch because we pass it every day on our way to wine school, it has an interesting menu, and it scores high on Google.
Papouch defines itself as a “restaurant” and describes itself as follows: “At Papouch, we delve into the vibrant flavors of the Mediterranean, as well as those from oriental and more broadly Asian cuisines,” which depends on the season and their access to fresh, local ingredients.
The ambiance and vibe were “hip,” while the service was functionally polite, most of the time. The wine-by-the-glass options were suitable. To accompany my meal, I was recommended the “G de Château Guiraud 2023.” It was an ok pairing, but I would have looked for something a little sweeter to accompany the food. For dessert, I was recommended the “Château Saint Roch Lirac Confidentielle,” a red wine whose dark, stewed fruit notes, such as plum, blackcurrant, and strawberry, were a fair pairing with the chocolate dessert.
We began our meal with the “Papouch hot pot,” a small bowl of spicy kimchi soup, which was the best I have ever had, see the picture below.
Next, we ordered the “Battered Potatoes,” mushroom duxelles with doenjang, and a Basque tomme cream, accompanied by pickles (see the picture below). The potatoes were fun and tasty, what I would characterize as “gourmand street food.” I particularly appreciated the use of the Basque tomme cheese, which originates from the Atlantic Pyrenees and is made from rare ewe’s milk.
My wife ordered the Bento box as her main course, which was the “special of the day.” It was served with miso soup, which met our expectations. At the same time, the Bento box was decent, but a bit salty, to our liking.
I ordered the “Korean fried chicken,” again, gourmand street food, which was spicy, sweet, and sour. It was as expected, see the picture below. We couldn’t eat it all, so we took it home. My wife had the balance for dinner, which she thoroughly enjoyed.
For dessert, we ordered the “Matchoco,” a chocolate fondant with a matcha tea molten center, accompanied by a hazelnut biscuit and green tea ice cream (see picture below).
We found Papouch to be just “okay.” There are many other places listed here that we would prefer to spend our time and money rather than Papouch.
That said, Papouch offers a different kind of cuisine, and it was bustling with people enjoying lunch and having a good time. So, if you find yourself in the Chartrons neighborhood, try Papouch; you might enjoy it, as many others do.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2
Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 3
Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 15
Papouch
Address: 138 Rue Notre Dame, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 58 65 42
https://www.papouch.fr/
Réunionnais, Toto lé’
Toto lé’ in Chartrons specializes in Réunionnais cuisine. You might be wondering, “What is Réunionnais cuisine?” I was curious about it too when I first passed by Toto lé’ and did a double-take, thinking the restaurant had misspelled “Rouennaise.”
When I got home, I looked up Réunionnais cuisine. I learned that it is the cuisine of the island of Réunion, a French department in the Indian Ocean, and that it is essentially creole cuisine. I was amazed and felt I had to try this place and its unique cuisine.
So, I decided to visit today and ordered a dish to go. I asked Anthony, the owner, which dish was his most popular. He told me it was “Rougai Saucisses.” Anthony filled a to-go box with a generous amount of rice and the “Rougai Saucisses.” I took it home and plated it, see picture below. It was excellent.
Toto lé’ is fun to try. It has a few tables inside where you can sit and eat, but it is mainly a takeaway shop.
Réunionnais, Toto lé’
Address: 83B Cr Balguerie Stuttenberg, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 07 71 58 36 82
Oysters, Marché des Quais
Marché des Quais, also known as the Sunday Guay Market, takes place every week along the Quays of Chartrons. It starts at the corner of Rue Latore and Quai des Chartrons, across the street in the Garonne River Run area, and stretches north for several blocks. You’ll find more than 70 stalls with local producers, food vendors, prepared meals, food trucks, and oyster farmers.
Oysters
There is nothing more French than going to a market and eating oysters, often with a glass of wine or Champagne. Bordeaux is just an hour from Arcachon Bay, one of France’s top oyster farming regions, so the oysters in Bordeaux are fresh, as seen in the picture below.
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and take part in this long-standing tradition.
At the market, oysters are served with lemon, butter, and bread, but not with mignonette. When I inquired about this, they explained, “We eat them naturally.” The butter adds creaminess, while the bread absorbs some of the salty brine, making the dish more substantial than eating oysters alone.
The oysters are served shucked, meaning they are opened with the top shell placed back on like a lid. To eat them, first remove the top shell. Inside, you will find the oyster meat still attached to the bottom shell, along with a liquid that looks like water. This liquid is known as “oyster liquor,” which is a combination of seawater and the oyster’s own juices.
The protocol is to eat, using the small fork provided to detach the oyster from its shell without spilling any of the “oyster liquor.” Then, lift the oyster edge to your lower lip, raise the shell, and allow the “oyster liquor” to slide into your mouth. Swallow.. If you’re unsure about the process, discreetly observe your neighbor for guidance, and you’ll quickly get the hang of it.
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and participate in this long-held French tradition. However, if you can’t make it to the Sunday market, “La Cabane Cent Un” in Chartrons is the next best place to enjoy Arcachon Bay oysters. See the picture below.
Pasta, PIPO
The Chartrons neighborhood offers many places to enjoy pasta. Although I haven’t tried all, I recently visited PIPO, a small, authentic Italian restaurant located on the “Quai des Chartrons.”
The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating for pleasant weather. They offer a well-executed and straightforward set menu at a reasonable price. The vegetable starters were excellent, and the pasta was cooked perfectly.
The service is friendly and prompt. It can get quite busy, so be sure to make a reservation if you plan to go.
PIPO
68 Quai des Chartrons, 33300 Bordeaux
https://www.instagram.com/pipo_bordeaux/#
Pâté en croûte, Pâté de Maison
Pâté en croûte can be pretty tedious to eat, which is why I enjoy it made with chorizo—it keeps things interesting. I learned how to prepare it during my time at culinary school. The manager of Bistro Marucie shared his favorite spot to buy pâté en croûte with spicy sausage at the Marché des Quais, a small stand called “Pâté de Maison” that specializes in this dish. I brought a slice home and plated it. It was excellent, and the chrizo kept me interested.
Pizza, Monzù Chartrons
There are many places to find pizza in the Chartrons neighborhood. I have tried many, but not all. This is what I think.
Monzù Chartrons
My favorite pizza is Neapolitan. I judge pizza by the ingredients used and its dough-to-sauce-to-cheese ratio. PLUS the pizza dough should have a thin base, a reasonably thick crust, and be crispy on the outside, light and airy inside, and chewy and slightly moist in the center.
Based on this criterion, Monzù Chartrons receives the “Bonvivants365 Gold Medal” for the best pizza in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood.
Tripletta Chartrons
Tripletta Chartrons receives “Bonvivant365’s Silver Medal” for the best pizza in Chartrons, Bordeaux, which is made in a very similar way to La Tradizione’s pizza, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione
La Tradizione pizza receives the “Bonvivants365 Bronze Medal” for the best pizza in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. The pizza is typical Neapolitan pizza, our favorite.
Neapolitan pizza is a traditional round pizza originating in Naples, Italy. It is characterized by its soft, thin dough with raised edges, as shown in the picture below.
What makes La Tradizione’s pizza particularly special is that all its ingredients are sourced from Italy. They use San Marzano PDO tomatoes for their sauce, along with Campanian mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, and fresh basil.
San Marzano tomatoes (Italian: pomodori pelati, meaning “peeled tomatoes”) are cultivated in a specific region around Naples. To be certified as San Marzano with Protected Designation of Origin (DOP), these tomatoes must be grown in the Sarnese-Nocerino region, located outside Naples and benefiting from volcanic soil from Mt. Vesuvius. It’s important to note that the DOP designation applies only to canned tomatoes, not fresh ones. San Marzano tomatoes are sweet, low in acidity, and rich in umami flavor, a characteristic attributed to the volcanic soil of Mt. Vesuvius. I buy these tomatoes regularly to make my homemade tomato sauce.
It’s important to note that Neapolitan pizza should have some moisture in the center. To someone who has never tried this type of pizza before, it may seem soggy. This moisture primarily comes from the use of fresh mozzarella, which is naturally high in water content. You will need to eat with a knife and fork.
If you plan to visit La Tradizione, I recommend making a reservation through their website, as the restaurant is typically crowded.
Pizzeria Mirabella
Pizzeria Mirabel is the fourth runner-up for best pizza in Chartrons. I evaluate pizza based on three key elements: crust, sauce, and cheese, along with their respective ratios. My benchmark is Neapolitan pizza from Naples, as mentioned above, which is known for its soft, thin dough with high edges and a perfect sauce-to-cheese ratio.
Note: If you plan to visit Pizzeria Mirabella, I recommend making a reservation in advance. The place is cozy but tiny—otherwise, takeaway.
Other pizzas tried in Chartrons:
- Papà Lello’s was overall disappointing for my taste.
- Pizza Coasy’s pizza was acceptable, but it lacked sauce, and the crust was too thick for me.
- Litalia Chartrons’ cheese-to-sauce ratio was too high for my liking; there was too much cheese relative to the sauce.
- Pepitom’s Pizza Club pizza, which I tried at Les Halles Bacalan, lacked flavor, in my opinion.
Carefour Pizza “Hack”
If you want cheap, tasty pizza at home, try “CARREFOUR CLASSIC’s Chorizo Pizza.” I am not saying it is “amazing,” but in a pinch, it can hit the spot.
Pinsa, La Bocca
There are several Italian delis and restaurants in Chartrons. La Bocca is one of them. During our time in Chartrons, we walk past it almost every day. Last week, on our way back from lunch, we stopped into the deli to look around and to have a cup of coffee. La Bocca’s deli is small, littered with Italian delicacies, with a small menu and a few tables to rest your feet, have a small bite to eat, and a coffee or glass of wine.
Looking at the small deli menu, we saw that La Bocca offered a “Pinsa,” also known as Pinsa Romana, a hand-pressed bread with an ancient recipe dating back over 2,000 years. It was initially baked by the rural population living outside ancient Rome, typically made in an oblong shape rather than a round one. Today, Pinsa is regarded as a healthier alternative to pizza because of the way the dough is made.
La Bocca describes their Pinsa as “a crispy and soft dough that falls somewhere between a pizza and focaccia, topped with tomato sauce, cherry tomatoes, and mozzarella.” An interesting feature is that you can order either a half or a full Pinsa. Since we had already eaten lunch, we decided to order half a Pinsa with sausage and a glass of red wine.
La Bocca’s Pinsa was both enjoyable and delicious. During our visit, an older couple who seemed to be exploring the Chartrons district stopped by to rest their feet and have a small bite to eat. La Bocca is the perfect place for a break while exploring the Chartrons District of Bordeaux.
75 Rue Notre Dame, 33000 Bordeaux
https://www.epicerielabocca.com/
Seafood, La Pointe
La Pointe is a seafood bistro situated in the heart of the Chartrons district. It is conveniently located near our Airbnb, so we pass by it almost daily. However, for some reason, it never caught my attention until several French locals recommended it to me. I decided to give it a try, and I’m glad we did. In many ways, it stands out for its focus on fish; it is one of the best fish restaurants I have visited in a long time.
The ambiance and vibe are fun, and the service is excellent. They speak French and English well, and every seat faces the kitchen or the bar. La Pointe was full of French people there for the fish.
For starters, I ordered six “Special oysters from the Banc d’Arguin, La Déguste, Lionel Nadeau,” along with a “Sausage in white wine,” as the waiter mentioned: “In France, we always serve sausage with oysters,” we paired it and the fish dishes that followed with La Pointe’s house while Bordeaux wine, a dry white whine, I believe mainly produced from Sémillon grapes and blended with Sauvignon Blanc.
I’ve enjoyed oysters all over France, from the south to the north, and I’ve never encountered this pairing before. Typically, I have them with butter and bread, but never with white sausage. Nevertheless, if someone suggests that I try a sausage, I’m not going to refuse, so I went ahead and ordered one (I thought “When in Rome”).
I was still very curious, and after consulting Google, I learned that oysters and sausages are generally not paired, as I had suspected. However, in Bordeaux, it is common to serve oysters with sausages, especially during the Christmas tradition known as “Lou-Ken-Kas.” I enjoyed the pairing. It was fun.
While deciding on our main course, we noticed the kitchen preparing “Sweet and Sour Korean-Style Fried Calamari.” I’m always eager to try fried calamari, so after checking with our waiter and learning it was one of their most popular dishes, we placed an order. The dish was both enjoyable and delicious, and we had plenty left over to take home, which made an excellent snack for our Netflix-and-chill afternoon.
For my main course, I ordered the “Fish of the Day,” which came with yellow carrot mousseline, braised carmine mushrooms, and orange beurre blanc. My wife chose the “Sea Bream Ceviche,” accompanied by red meat radish, pomegranate, avocado cream, and new potatoes.
For dessert, we shared the coffee tiramisu with amaretto, which we paired with their “La Peyrat XO Cognac.”
As I mentioned earlier, the ambiance and vibe are enjoyable, and the service is excellent. However, we found the wine-by-the-glass options a bit confusing, which made the options difficult to understand.
That said, the house dry white wine paired perfectly with the food. The presentation and plating were thoughtful but average. The dishes were spot-on and yummy. The chef’s tiramisu was exceptional.
There aren’t many restaurants I find myself craving to return to, but La Pointe is one of them. We enjoyed it so much that we made a reservation to bring my wife’s friend from San Francisco when she visits in December.
Ambiance and vibe: 5
Wine by the glass options: 4
Presentation and plating: 3
Yummy quotient: 5
Dessert quality: 4
Bonvivant365 score: 21
Address: 10 Rue Sicard, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 81 33 24
https://www.lapointe-bordeaux.fr/la-carte
Steak, Moelleuses et Persillées
Moelleuses et Persillées is a steakhouse located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, very close to my Airbnb and where we attend wine school. I love steak, and they serve the best in Chartrons. I have dined there twice with my wife.
Moelleuses et Persillées first visit
We had more time for lunch, which allowed us to visit the restaurant Moelleuses et Persillées, which offers a variety of steak options from around the world, including Kobe from Hyogo, Japan; Wagyu from Australia; Black Angus from Uruguay; Freygaaar from Finland; Dexter from Angleterre, England; and Montbéliarde from France. Moelleuses et Persillées matures its meats on-site. Each breed has a distinct maturation time that varies with factors such as marbling and age at slaughter. Moelleuses et Persillées offers a daily menu and presents a selection of meat cuts tableside for review and choosing.
Moelleuses et Persillées offers an excellent selection of appetizers. My wife ordered the “Matured Beef Croquettes” with mustard and honey sauce, followed by the “Grilled Baby Lettuce” with chimichurri sauce for her main course; both dishes were outstanding.
As for me, I decided to order the steak, but my choices were limited since the Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are typically sized and cut for sharing, usually weighing around 700 grams, which was too much for me (even though I planned to take most of it home). However, they did have a 500-gram Dexter steak from Angleterre, England, so I ordered it cooked Bleu, of course. Please see the picture below.
The Dexter breed was developed through the genetic selection of cattle from Ireland, England, Scotland, and Wales. Dexter beef is known for its tenderness and a sweet, slightly nutty flavor. Additionally, this breed often exhibits a unique marbling pattern referred to as “spider” marbling.
Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are served with a three-pepper sauce and accompanied by a salad or fries. Additionally, you can order a side of pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow. My steak was perfectly cooked, the three-pepper sauce was sun-dried, the salad was nicely dressed with a mustard vinaigrette, and the fries were cooked to perfection.
Moelleuses et Persillées may be expensive, but it is a steak lover’s paradise. Located in the heart of the Chartrons neighborhood, it offers both indoor and outdoor seating and excellent service.
I plan to return when I have the opportunity for a proper meal, where I can order wine from their extensive by-the-glass list and indulge in dessert. I’m particularly interested in trying the pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow, along with the “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola” sides.
Moelleuses et Persillées second visit
We met a new friend in Bordeaux and wanted to take them to lunch to get to know them better. So, we took him to Moelleuses et Persillées because it is close to the school and is known for its meats, which I wanted to try more of. It turned out to be an epic lunch that lasted just short of four hours.
Looking back at the pictures, I realize we didn’t order a starter. If I had to do it again, I would have tried the “Tempura prawns, crushed roasted avocado, yuzu mayonnaise and coriander,” or the “Pan-seared scallops, served with Jerusalem artichoke purée, sesame dashi, nori flakes and crispy rice, all enhanced with hazelnut oil.” But I am glad we didn’t because in the end we had so much food we both needed doggie bags.
For our main courses, we selected two beef cuts, served one after the other: Supreme Beef from Germany and Santa Rosalia Wagyu from Spain.
As accompaniments, we ordered pan-fried foie gras, macaroni with Comté, Gorgonzola, and black truffle, and potato mille-feuille.
My wife ordered the “M&P Burger,” a homemade beef fat and sweet potato bun, aged pulled beef, raclette cheese, homemade BBQ sauce, pickles, fried onions, and fries.
Instead of dessert, we ordered the cheese plate, featuring Morbier, Tomme de Savoie, Brie, and Ossau Iraty.
The house welcomed us each with a glass of champagne. We then ordered a bottle of Château Poujeaux Moulis-en-Médoc 2016, followed by a bottle of Clos Dufourg Margaux 2020, and finally a bottle of Boekenhoutskloof, The Chocolate Block.
It was an epic lunch that lasted close to four hours; a great moment.
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 5
Wine by the glass options: 4
Presentation and plating: 4
Dessert and/or cheese plate quality: 4
Yummy quotient: 5
Bonvivant365 score: 22
Address: 65 Quai des Chartrons, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 87 60 82
https://www.moelleuses-et-persillees.fr/
Sushi, YUMI
YUMI is a small shusi shop on the Quais De Bordeaux in Chartrons. My wife and I are fortunate that it is near our Wine School (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux“), so we go once a week for lunch.
While YUMI calls itself a restaurant, I would describe it more as an “unadorned café.” There are tables outside, and inside, there’s a back room with tables but no windows. The decor is quite drab. A husband-and-wife team runs it, and the service is friendly and attentive.
The selection of sushi and sashimi included is generally limited to tuna, salmon, white fish, and shrimp, but what is available is exceptional—truly melt-in-your-mouth sushi. The owner informed me that he sources his fish from Scotland.
My wife often orders the lunch set, which includes miso soup and a small side salad of pickled cabbage. I typically order the sashimi platter, which comes with the pickled cabbage salad, and ask to substitute the rice for miso soup; see the picture below.
Address: 76 Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 10 74 14
https://www.yumibordeaux.fr/
Vietnamese, Le Petit Vietnam Chartrons
Le Petit Vietnam is located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, and they also have a to-go place in the Bordeaux-Lac neighborhood. I stopped by on my way home one day to give it a try. I ordered the classic “Phở,” a Vietnamese soup dish made with broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat. It was excellent.
Le Petit Vietnam Chartrons
Address: 49 Cr de la Martinique, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 54 69 71 41
Tacos, La Copa Rota
Authentic Mexican tacos are hiding in plain sight in Chartron at La Copa Rota.
La Copa Rota is a taco “seakeasy,” meaning it is hard to find, opens and closes at will, and, from what I observed, turns away as many people as it hosts.
Don’t misunderstand, these are not the bastardized “French tacos” popularized by Kebab houses across France. These are AUTHENTIC MEXICAN TACOS, full of the flavor and spirit of Mexico, made with passion and to exact specifications by the hostess and her band of merry helpers in a small kitchen fronting a seating area that accommodates 10 or so people.
La Copa Rota taco is far and away the best taco I have ever had in France and maybe in my life. But like I said, La Copa Rota opens when it opens and closes when it closes. The best chance you have to try the most authentic taco, probably in all of France, is to email the address below and see if you can wiggle your way in for a taste.
GOOD LUCK!
Address: 87 Rue Notre Dame, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 06 37 77 04 58
Wine bar, Le Sobre Chartrons
Le Sobre Chartrons is a wine bar right down the street from my Airbnb. My wife and I visited Le Soubre Chartrons four years ago on our first visit to Bordeaux, and nothing changed. It is still as good a wine bar as we remembered.
Le Sobre Chartrons has a welcoming and comfortable atmosphere. When the weather is nice, there are seats available outside on the sidewalk; otherwise, there are plenty of seats and tables inside.
At Le Sobre Chartrons, you can order wine by the glass or purchase a bottle. The wine bar also features wine dispenser machines equipped with a card reader, which allow for adjustable portion sizes. You can choose from different serving sizes—taster, half-glass, or full glass—simply by pressing a button.
Inform your server or approach the bar and request to use the wine dispenser machine. They will hand you a card to insert into the wine dispenser machine, then select the desired wine and portion. When you are done tasting wines, hand the card, and they will charge you for what you have drunk.
We have never had dinner at Le Sobre Chartrons, but their small bites and plates are well-appreciated and respected.
Le Sobre Chartrons regularly updates its wine machine, with at least one excellent wine available by the glass, making frequent visits worthwhile.
Le Sobre Chartrons
24 Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux
https://lesobrechartrons-bordeaux.fr/fr
Things to do in Chartrons, Bordeaux
Before or after you have a bite to eat in the Chartrons neighborhood, here are some ideas for things to do in Chartrons.
Browse the Village Notre-Dame antique shop
Cut cheese at Fromagerie Beillevaire Bordeaux Les Grands Hommes
Fromagerie Beillevaire Bordeaux Les Grands Hommes is my favorite cheese shop in Chartons. It is a great place to stop by and select a cheese to take home after a day in Chartrons.
Light a candle: Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons de Bordeaux
Saint-Louis Church was constructed between 1874 and 1880 under the designs of Pierre-Charles Brun. It is located in the center of Chartrons, making it unmissable.
Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons de Bordeaux
Address: 51 Rue Notre Dame, 33000 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 56 52 94 15
https://www.paroissebordeauxchartrons.fr/
Say hello to the oldest continuously operating oven in France
If you have the opportunity, visit Boulangerie “Au Pétrin Moissagais,” which claims to have the oldest continuously operating oven in France (pictured below). The wood-burning oven, pictured below, was built in 1765.
They still make hearty Gasconian bread from South West France, along with many other pastry items, so you can grab one to try or take home.
Boulangerie “Au Pétrin Moissagais”
Address: 72 Cr de la Martinique, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: 05 57 87 54 57
Snap a rooftop picture of the Garonne River
Tchanqué Bordeaux’s restaurant and bar offers a rooftop view of Chartrons and the Garonne River. It is a great photo opportunity.
https://www.paroissebordeauxchartrons.fr/
Tchanqué Bordeaux
Address: 18 Parv. des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux
https://www.tchanque-bordeaux.com/
Taste Bordeaux wine at the Wine and Trade Museum
Watch the sunset over the Garonne River
Chartrons is fun at night and a great place to take a sunset picture of the Garonne River.
Finally, the best restaurant in Chartons and maybe Bordeaux is the MICHELIN 2-star restaurant “Maison Nouvelle,” led by Chef Philippe Etchebest.
See my post “Maison Nouvelle, Chef Philippe Etchebest’s Restaurant.”