Wine Archives

April 14, 2026April 14, 2026

Champagne Wine Region

My wife and I visited the Champagne Wine Region in northeastern France, about 150 km east of Paris. Reims is the region’s capital. Epernay is the wine capital. The four “cradle villages” of Champagne are Dizy, Hautvillers, Cumières, and Damery. It is the only region authorized to produce Champagne, so if your wine sparkles but does not come from Champagne, it cannot be called Champagne. Here is what we learned and experienced.

A view of the Cumières commune and the Marne River in Champagne, France

History

Champaign has a unique history. It first produced red and white wines, but as Champagne gained popularity, local producers shifted to making Champagne because it was a luxury product with better profits.

Terroir

It is all about the hills and the soil.

Climate

Champagne’s vineyards experience a mix of continental and oceanic climates. This combination is unique to Champagne and does not occur in any other French wine region.¹

In practice, these two climates interact in Champagne. The oceanic influence brings mild temperatures, so winters are not too cold, and summers are not too hot. The average yearly temperature is 11°C.

But the continental climate can cause sudden winter freezes. In some places, temperatures have dropped below -10°C, causing frosts that damage the vines. In summer, the opposite can happen, with high temperatures sometimes leading to strong storms.

These climate conditions also help the vines in several ways. Champagne gets lots of summer sun, which helps the grapes grow. Rainfall is steady and moderate year-round, providing the grapes with nearly ideal water conditions.

Grapes

Champagne wines are made solely from three main grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier), but that’s not quite true! Five other varieties are also authorized within the AOC area and are used to make some: Arbane, Petit Meslier, Chardonnay Rose, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris.

How Champagne is made

The vines and the pressings: first, second, and third, and the “extra” wine

Vintage versus non-vintage Champagne

Non-vintage is made from a blend of multiple years to ensure consistency. At this level of wine, each Champagne maker’s goal is to provide a consistent expression, flavor profile, and brand year after year.

Vintage Champagne is different. All the Champagne in the bottle comes from grapes from a single year. Champagne makers declare a vintage only when everything aligns in the vineyard, allowing them to create a unique expression that is not possible with non-vintage Champagne.

Producers

There are large Champagne Houses that grow their own grapes and make their own Champagne, such as Moët & Chandon, owned by the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton). LVMH is a multinational luxury goods company, and has been since 1987.

The interesting point is that only 20% of the wine in a bottle of Moët & Chandon comes from grapes grown by Moët & Chandon. The Moët & Chandon has to buy. This brings us to the next level, growers and producers, which are divided into two categories.

First, there are small growers/producers who grow their own grapes, make their own Champagne, and, in many cases, also sell their excess to large Champagne Houses such as Moët & Chandon. Second, there are growers who do not produce Champagne at all and just sell to Champagne Houses such as Moët & Chandon. There are all kinds of nuances, but this is the basics.

Finally, there are a few key points: Magnums are better because they allow less air. You can store Champagne at home for the same amount of time it was kept in the Champagne maker’s cellar before disgorgement, meaning if it were stored for 15 months, then you can store it for 15 months. Light is the enemy of Champagne, so buy Champagne that has been stored in boxes out of the light and keep it in the box out of the light. After

What to do

We hired a private expert Champaign guide to take us around for the day. He picked us up at our hotel in Reims and drove us to Epernay.

Along the way, we discussed the Champagne wine region. When we arrived in Epernay, he drove us up and down the “L’Avenue de Champagne” (English: Champaign Avenue), pointing out key factoids.

He dropped us off for our private Moët & Chandon tour. The Moët & Chandon tour was well done and finished with a tasting of two Champagnes.

Moët et Chandon tour tasting room, Epernay, France

Then, we visited Boutique Champagne Pierre Mignon for small bites and to taste Maison Pierre Mignon Champagne. We tried nne different Champaigns. It was a good lunch!

Next, he drove us to BLAH, a small village, where we finished with a Dom Pérignon photo op.

After that, we drove through the countryside, stopped for a scenic view, and visited the Champagne Roger-Constant Lemaire, a small Champagne grower, producer, and maker. We met Gilles and Bernadette Tournant. Lemaire is Bernadette’s maiden name.

Finally, he returned us to our hotel.

Where to stay

We stayed at the Hyatt Reims because it was only six months old, and I thought it would be cleaner than the other hotels, especially the carpets. We do not like carpet. But after visiting Reims, I think the Gregorian Hotel would also be a good option. It is right across from the Cathedral. I looked at it but decided on the Hyatt because it was new.

As an alternative, if I did not want to stay in Reims, I would stay in Epernay on the “L’Avenue de Champagne” (English: Champaign Avenue). There are two good choices: Château Comtesse Lafond and La Villa Eugène. Both are located on the Avenue and allow you to walk from Champagne house to Champagne house.

Where to eat

Brasserie Excelsior

On Easter Sunday, we stopped by the Cathedral and then had lunch at Brasserie Excelsior, located in the heart of Reims. This was a great choice.

Brasserie Excelsior
Address: 96 Pl. Drouet d’Érlon, 51100 Reims
Phone: 03 26 91 40 50
https://www.excelsior-reims.fr/

Brasserie Le Jardin

Brasserie Le Jardin is a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant located a short drive from the center of Reims. It is one of the restaurants at Domaine Les Crayères, a luxury hotel located in a seven-hectare park in the heart of Reims.

We arrived early, had a drink at Bar La Rotonde at the Hotel Domaine Les Crayères, and then went to dinner. Both were excellent choices.

Brasserie Le Jardin
Adresse: 7 av. du Général Giraud, 51100 Reims
Phone: 03 26 24 90 90
https://lescrayeres.com/

Café du Palais

Café du Palais Reims is not in the MICHELIN guide. Café du Palais, in the center of Reims, has been a family business for more than seventy years. Over time, children and grandchildren have taken on the management, now representing the fifth generation of the Vogt family. It was a good choice.

Address: 14 Pl. Myron Herrick, 51100 Reims
Phone: 03 26 47 52 54
https://www.cafedupalais.fr/

If visiting the Chablis Wine Region, see my post https://bonvivant365.com/wine/chablis-wine-region/

(n.d.). Champagne and its climate. Comité Champagne. Retrieved April 14, 2026, from https://www.champagne.fr/en/about-champagne/the-champagne-terroir/champagne-and-its-climate ↩︎

November 9, 2025January 12, 2026

Petit-Figeac, 2019: Tasting Notes

Château Figeac Overview

Petit-Figeac is from the Saint-Emilion appellation of the Bordeaux wine region. It is the second wine of Château Figeac.

Château Figeac is situated to the west of Saint-Émilion, bordering Pomerol, and encompasses 41 hectares of vineyards, all classified as Premier Grand Cru Classé “A.” The vineyards rest upon three gravelly hillocks composed of quartz and blue clay in the subsoil. The climate is wet and maritime. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

It is a historic Bordeaux vineyard with roots tracing back to the second century during the Gallo-Roman period. The property’s owner at that time, Figeacus, named the villa he built in that location after himself. Figeac is one of the few vineyards in Saint-Émilion that has been continuously inhabited for the past 2,000 years.

Tasting Notes: Petit-Figeac, 2019

Tasted in non-blind conditions in our Airbnb in Bordeaux, France.

Appearance: Red wine with a medium ruby appearance, a light garnet rim, and a deep purple hue, with medium viscosity.

Nose: The nose is of medium intensity with primary aromas of dark fruit, such as plum and peonies, and secondary and tertiary aromas of baking spice.

Palate: The wine is dry, with low acidity, smooth tannins, and a medium alcohol content. It is medium-bodied with a moderate flavor intensity, featuring ripe fruit notes such as plum. Its finish is medium in length. The wine is well-balanced.

Conclusion: The wine is of good quality, suitable for bottle ageing for up to 10 years.

Food pairing: Boeuf de Bresse grilled or roasted with French fries or in a stew or casserole.

Grape variety: 58% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc

Temperature: Serve between 16 and 18°C

Rewards: The estate received four stars in the 2023 Guide to the Best Wines of France (RVF) and five stars in the 2023 Bettane & Desseauve Guide.

October 2, 2025January 12, 2026

Best Glasses for Wine Tasting

My wife and I are in Bordeaux for five months to attend the CAFA Wine School (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). At school, we sample a lot of wines. Sometimes upwards of 16 classes a day. For comparative tastings or judging, the “SPIEGELAU Special Glasses Expert Tasting” is a workhorse. These machine-made crystalline glasses are perfect for tasting and evaluating wines. They are also easy to clean and durable, so I don’t worry about breaking them.

Additionally, they are suitable for enjoying everyday wines at home. However, for that special bottle of wine, particularly Bordeaux wines, since we are currently in Bordeaux, we prefer to use the Zalto glasses.

Zalto's DENK'ART "BORDEAUX," wine glass — Zalto’s DENK’ART “BORDEAUX,” wine glass

According to its website, the Zalto DENK’ART series glasses are handcrafted. It takes eight people to make one glass. The glasses are created freehand, except for the bowl, which is blown into a mold. Zalto glasses are elegant works of art. They are a pleasure to hold and feature a rim that feels almost invisible to the lips, enhancing the overall wine-drinking experience. Zalto offers a glass for major wines and the “UNIVERSAL,” a catch-all that works well across all wines. For Bordeaux wines, we use the Zalto “BORDEAUX” glass pictured above.

September 30, 2025January 12, 2026

Port de la Lune Cellars Visit, Bordeaux

Port de la Lune Cellars is the first “urban winery” in Bordeaux. It is located in the Chartrons neighborhood. Laurent Bordes founded Port de la Lune Cellars in 2017 to produce wines that are not typically associated with the Bordeaux wine region. As he explained, every other winemaker in Bordeaux makes Bordeaux wines. Why should Port de la Lune Cellars?

As Laurent told us, with a clear vision, he decided to operate outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system and its regulations. The AOC establishes the rules for all French wines, including those from Bordeaux. Instead, he decided to produce “Vin de France” (VdF) wines. Also known as “Wine of France.” VdF regulations allow winemakers more flexibility compared to AOC rules.

Port de la Lune Cellars' urban wine cellar — Port de la Lune Cellars’ urban wine cellar

To realize his vision, as he tells it, Laurent reached out to winegrowers throughout France to source grapes. This was a challenging task, as sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is typical in New World wine regions, such as Napa, California; however, it is less common in France, except in the Burgundy region.

According to Laurent, at first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent’s request. “You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!” Eventually, they understood—today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across France.

Laurent told us that he drives over 10,000 kilometers each year during the harvest to collect grapes and transport them back to Bordeaux for winemaking. After the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location in Bordeaux, the freshly pressed grape juice, known as “must,” is transported to the Port de la Lune Cellars, where alcoholic fermentation (first fermentation) takes place in stainless steel tanks.

During our visit, Laurent explained that all the wines from Port de la Lune Cellars undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with the oak enhances the wines’ aromas and permits oxygen to enter the wine gradually. As a result, the sharp malic acid is converted into softer, creamier lactic acid—similar to the acid found in milk. This process softens the tannins, thereby enhancing the wine’s weight and texture. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots.

Port de la Lune Cellars produces 50,000 bottles of wine each year, and the Laurent personally bottles and wax seals each one (I’m not joking). As he tells it, he tried to recruit people to help him, but after a couple of hours, they had had enough.

All Port de la Lune Cellars wines are organic, meaning they are made with only natural yeast, 1% sulfur, and no fining or filtering. We sampled two white wines and two red wines, all of which were of excellent quality.

A significant portion of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wine is exported, while some is also available for sale in Bordeaux. You can visit Port de la Lune Cellars’ website and use “Click and Collect,” which allows you to purchase the wine online and then schedule a pickup time at Port de la Lune Cellars. However, be aware that Port de la Lune Cellars is a what I call a “wine cellar speakeasy,” meaning there is no sign on the door, so it is easy to walk right past.

Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars' wines since 2017 — Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wines since 2017

Port de la Lune Cellars collects grapes from various wine regions across France that otherwise would not meet and introduces them to each other in Bordeaux through its winemaking process. The result is a “Wine made in Bordeaux” that is modern and appeals to a new generation, with interesting implications for addressing the impact of climate change on the French wine industry.

See my post “Best Place to Eat in Chartrons” to find a place to eat.

Port de la Lune Cellars
Address: 31 bis, rue Barillet-Deschamps, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 6 74 68 47 24

July 8, 2025April 14, 2026

Alsace Wine Region of France

I spent one month in Strasbourg, France, and took some time to learn about and tour the Alsace Wine Region. Here is what you need to know in a nutshell.

Alsace Wine Region Overview

Strasbourg is Alsace’s capital city. The region is situated on the upper eastern side of France, in the Rhine Valley.

Alsace is divided into two parts: Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin. Bas-Rhin is north of Strasbourg, and Haut-Rhin is south of Strasbourg on the low slopes of the Vosges Mountains.

The best vineyards are generally regarded to be associated with Haut-Rhin. Many of the Alsace Grand Cru vineyards are in Haut-Rhin.

Alsace Wine Region Soil

Alsace has undergone significant geological changes throughout its history, including the collapse of the Rhine Gap. These disruptions have resulted in a diverse range of soils, subsoils, and microclimates within the region. The soils include granite, shale, sandstone, marl, clay, alluvium, loess, and loam. For an in-depth explanation of the soils of Alsace, visit Vins Alsace and read their article titled “Geology of Alsace terroirs” to learn more.

Pictured here are pink clay, granite, shale, and fossilized snails

Alsacian Wine Region Grape Varietals

There are six white wines: Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat d’Alsace, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer, and one rosé or red wine: the Pinot Noir. Riesling is the king and accounts for approximately 22.5% of the wine produced in Alsace, according to the “Google Oracle.”

Alsace Wine Route

The Alsace Wine Route is the oldest in France. It begins in the city of Marlenheim, known as the “doorway to the Alsace Wine Route,” and ends in Thann, the final village along the route.

Route des Vins d'Alsace signpost — Route des Vins d’Alsace signpost

As you travel the route, you’ll pass through more than 70 charming villages. Even my friend Michael—who is a teetotaler and the cheapest man I know, someone who wouldn’t drink a glass of wine even if it were offered for free—enjoyed driving along the Alsace Wine Route with his wife.

Alsace Wine Route Touring

If you have a car, it is easy. I never drink and drive, so I hired a professional to take us on a half-day tour to see the beginning of the wine route.

Back of "Église-Saints-Pierre-et-Paul-d'Obernai" taken from the driver's window from the passenger seat — Back of “Église-Saints-Pierre-et-Paul-d’Obernai” taken from the driver’s window from the passenger seat

There are other options, such as the “Kutzig Open-top bus of the Alsatian Wine Route.” You can also find full and half-day tours on Viator, TripAdvisor, and GET YOUR GUIDE; and if you are lucky, you might see some storks along the route.

Alsacian Wine Tasting

There are countless places to taste Alsacian wine in Strasbourg and along the Alsace wine route. See my post “What to do in Strasbourg, France,” where I mention “Le Comptoir des Vignerons Alsaciens,” a wine store in the Strasbourg center that offers over 375 wines from Alsace, sourced from 75 independent producers.

Alsace Wine Region Summary

Except for Gewurztraminer, which I love, I was not a fan of Alsace wines before visiting the region, and nothing I tasted or experienced during my stay changed my opinion. However, this highlights the beauty of food and wine preferences: there is no right or wrong choice, only what you enjoy.

On a positive note, I discovered the grape varietal Sylvaner, which is used to produce Sylvaner d’Alsace, a refreshing, light, and delicate Alsatian wine that I would describe as a perfect “picnic wine.”

If you plan to visit Champagne, see my post https://bonvivant365.com/wine/champagne-wine-region/

May 26, 2025April 14, 2026

Chablis Wine Region

Since 2019, when I first tasted Chablis Grand Cru, it has been my dream to stand on the hill of Chablis. So, when my wife and I visited Dijon for a month, I planned a day-and-a-half trip from there. If you are asking what to do in Chablis or are interested in wine tasting there, here is what I discovered.

Let’s go!

Chablis soil

To understand Chablis, you have to appreciate its soil.

First, it’s essential to know that Chablis was once covered by the sea millions of years ago. As a result, its soil is a mixture of clay and calcium-rich limestone rocks called marl. The vineyards are littered with stones.

Clay and limestone soil, Chablis, France

Why? Limestone rocks form when small sea creatures die, and they sink to the ocean floor. Over time, as their skeletons and shells accumulate on top of one another, the pressure causes them to transform into rock.

Second, you need to know that Chablis has two types of soils: Kimmeridgian and Portlandian. The Kimmeridgian soil is older and is located lower on the hill. It has a higher limestone content and is mineral-rich. The ground is littered with stones (called marl) and contains fossilized oyster shells. Portlandian limestone is younger, located higher on the hill, has less limestone content, and lacks minerality. Its stones do not have sea fossils.

Third, you need to know that the more mineral-rich the soil, the drier and fresher the wines are; the less mineral-rich the soil, the more weighty and richly flavored the wines are.

Chablis in a nutshell

Now that you clearly understand the Chablis soil, here are some essential things to know:

The entire Chablis wine region spans approximately 6,000 hectares, or 14,832 acres (1 hectare = 2.471 acres); it is small.
The Serein River flows through Chablis, dividing the wine region into a right and left bank; the river is smaller than you think when you see it.

When standing at the bottom of the hill and looking up, you can only see the middle, not its peak. The top of the mountain is past the treeline, and it is flatter.
Based on quality, Chablis is classified into four types: Petit Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. Petit Chablis is the lesser, and Grand Cru is the queen.
A Chablis vineyard’s microclimate or terroir is defined by its location on the hillside and factors such as sunlight, rainfall, wind, and viticulture practices. There are 47 separate microclimates for Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru: 40 Premier Cru and 7 Grand Cru.
The finest Chablis, known as Chablis Grand Cru, is produced exclusively on the right bank hill bounded by the road. Spanning only 100 hectares. The hill is steeper. It has a southern exposure, more prolonged sun exposure, and thinner topsoil. The soil is 100% Kimmeridgian, rich with fossils. Premier Cru is produced on different hectares on both sides of the hill.
When visiting Chablis, drink Chablis Premier Cru or Chablis Grand Cru; both are widely available and reasonably priced, and you won’t find better access to these wines anywhere else.

Tasting Chablis wine

Chablis is a small town. It is easy to walk around and taste wine. Shops and tasting rooms are owned by individual wine producers, where you can learn about and try Chablis wines. Tastings are not expensive, and in some cases, the tasting cost can be applied to the wine purchased.

A basic tasting includes a Petit Chablis, Chablis, and Premier Cru. Most do not include a Grand Cru because many winemakers do not have a lot of Grand Cru on hand. Why? Because they do not own any Grand Cru vineyards. Instead, they must buy Grand Cru grapes to make a Grand Cru. What they make, they must sell by the bottle.

The best place I found to taste wine in Chablis is William Fèvre. Why? William Fèvre is the largest owner of the Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards on the hill. So, you can taste Petit Chablis, Chablis, and its Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru.

William Fèvre Chablis wine tasting, Chablis France

Plus, the wine consultants are highly knowledgeable and, during the tasting, lead you on an in-depth tour of Chablis without the tasting room.

William Fèvre tasting room
8 Rue Jules Rathier, 89800 Chablis

Touring Chablis vineyards

We spent 36 hours in Chablis but managed to go on two wine tours.

The first Cablis wine tour was with Clotilde Davenne’s boutique, a small shop in downtown Chablis. I chose them because they offered a private tour and drove you around Chablis Grand Cru hill in an electric Citroën Méhari, a lightweight car with a plastic body. It is named after the fast-running dromedary camel, the méhari. Citroën stopped making the car in 1988.

“Clotilde Davenne” is owned and operated by Clotilde Davenne, a French woman entrepreneur who grew up in Burgundy at the foot of the Morvan mountains. See my post “The Best Restaurants in Dijon” to learn about Morvan and Morvan ham. She has quite a story to tell, and when we were there, the staff was preparing for the winery’s 20th anniversary.

Zipping around the Chablis Grand Cru vineyard in the Citroën Méhari with my wife was a hoot. The guide who drove us around was knowledgeable enough. After the drive, you return to Clotilde Davenne’s boutique for a short Chablis wine tasting.

Driving around the Chablis Grand Cru hill in a Citroën Méhari

The second wine tour was with Domaine Céline and Frédéric Gueguen, whose tasting room is right across the street from William Fèvre’s tasting room in Chablis (See above). Gueguen offers two options: a Chablis wine tasting only or a Chablis vineyard tour and tasting in English. We did both.

On day one, we began with the Chablis wine tasting, which was very informative. It included maps and a detailed description of the terroir, covering aspects such as soil type, climate and weather patterns, and topography, including elevation, slope, and sun exposure. Additionally, a looping video in French illustrates Chablis’s geographical history and formation, which is very educational even if you do not speak French.

On the second day, we took a Chablis vineyard tour and wine tasting that perfectly complemented Clotilde Davenne’s boutique experience, which I have previously discussed. Domaine Gueguen’s guide drove us to the top of the hill and parked the van. From there, we walked down to the Grand Cru vineyards for an informative discussion.

View looking down on Valmur Grand Cru, Chablis, France

Afterward, we made our way back up the hill—an easy walk—and strolled through the Petit Chablis vineyards.

Looking back at Chablis, France, from the Petite Chablis vineyards

Then we walked across the Petit Chablis vineyards to view the Premier Cru vineyards on the other side, before returning to the van. I was happy with this tour, especially since we hadn’t reached the top of the hill the day before; I don’t think the plastic Citroën Méhari could have made it.

View of Premium Cru Vineyards from the Petit Chablis vineyards, Chablis, France

If you plan to visit France’s Alsace wine region, see my post https://bonvivant365.com/wine/alsace-wine-region/