Wine Archives

November 9, 2025November 10, 2025

Petit-Figeac, 2019: Tasting Notes

Château Figeac Overview

Petit-Figeac is from the Saint-Emilion appellation of the Bordeaux wine region. It is the second wine of Château Figeac.

Château Figeac is situated to the west of Saint-Émilion, bordering Pomerol, and encompasses 41 hectares of vineyards, all classified as Premier Grand Cru Classé “A.” The vineyards rest upon three gravelly hillocks composed of quartz and blue clay in the subsoil. The climate is wet and maritime. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

It is a historic Bordeaux vineyard with roots tracing back to the second century during the Gallo-Roman period. The property’s owner at that time, Figeacus, named the villa he built in that location after himself. Figeac is one of the few vineyards in Saint-Émilion that has been continuously inhabited for the past 2,000 years.

Tasting Notes: Petit-Figeac, 2019

Tasted in non-blind conditions in our Airbnb in Bordeaux, France.

Appearance: Red wine with a medium ruby appearance, a light garnet rim, and a deep purple hue, with medium viscosity.

Nose: The nose is of medium intensity with primary aromas of dark fruit, such as plum and peonies, and secondary and tertiary aromas of baking spice.

Palate: The wine is dry, with low acidity, smooth tannins, and a medium alcohol content. It is medium-bodied with a moderate flavor intensity, featuring ripe fruit notes such as plum. Its finish is medium in length. The wine is well-balanced.

Conclusion: The wine is of good quality, suitable for bottle ageing for up to 10 years.

Food pairing: Boeuf de Bresse grilled or roasted with French fries or in a stew or casserole.

Grape variety: 58% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc

Temperature: Serve between 16 and 18°C

Rewards: The estate received four stars in the 2023 Guide to the Best Wines of France (RVF) and five stars in the 2023 Bettane & Desseauve Guide.

October 2, 2025November 9, 2025

Best Glasses for Wine Tasting

My wife and I are in Bordeaux for five months to attend the CAFA Wine School (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). At school, we sample a lot of wines. Sometimes upwards of 16 classes a day. For comparative tastings or judging, the “SPIEGELAU Special Glasses Expert Tasting” is a workhorse. These machine-made crystalline glasses are perfect for tasting and evaluating wines. They are also easy to clean and durable, so I don’t worry about breaking them.

Additionally, they are suitable for enjoying everyday wines at home. However, for that special bottle of wine, particularly Bordeaux wines, since we are currently in Bordeaux, we prefer to use the Zalto glasses.

Zalto's DENK'ART "BORDEAUX," wine glass — Zalto’s DENK’ART “BORDEAUX,” wine glass

According to its website, the Zalto DENK’ART series glasses are handcrafted. It takes eight people to make one glass. The glasses are created freehand, except for the bowl, which is blown into a mold. Zalto glasses are elegant works of art. They are a pleasure to hold and feature a rim that feels almost invisible to the lips, enhancing the overall wine-drinking experience. Zalto offers a glass for major wines and the “UNIVERSAL,” a catch-all that works well across all wines. For Bordeaux wines, we use the Zalto “BORDEAUX” glass pictured above.

September 30, 2025November 17, 2025

Port de la Lune Cellars Visit

Port de la Lune Cellars is the first “urban winery” in Bordeaux. It is located in the Chartrons neighborhood. Laurent Bordes founded Port de la Lune Cellars in 2017 to produce wines that are not typically associated with the Bordeaux wine region. As he explained, every other winemaker in Bordeaux makes Bordeaux wines. Why should Port de la Lune Cellars?

As Laurent told us, with a clear vision, he decided to operate outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system and its regulations. The AOC establishes the rules for all French wines, including those from Bordeaux. Instead, he decided to produce “Vin de France” (VdF) wines. Also known as “Wine of France.” VdF regulations allow winemakers more flexibility compared to AOC rules.

Port de la Lune Cellars' urban wine cellar — Port de la Lune Cellars’ urban wine cellar

To realize his vision, as he tells it, Laurent reached out to winegrowers throughout France to source grapes. This was a challenging task, as sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is typical in New World wine regions, such as Napa, California; however, it is less common in France, except in the Burgundy region.

According to Laurent, at first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent’s request. “You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!” Eventually, they understood—today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across France.

Laurent told us that he drives over 10,000 kilometers each year during the harvest to collect grapes and transport them back to Bordeaux for winemaking. After the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location in Bordeaux, the freshly pressed grape juice, known as “must,” is transported to the Port de la Lune Cellars, where alcoholic fermentation (first fermentation) takes place in stainless steel tanks.

During our visit, Laurent explained that all the wines from Port de la Lune Cellars undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with the oak enhances the wines’ aromas and permits oxygen to enter the wine gradually. As a result, the sharp malic acid is converted into softer, creamier lactic acid—similar to the acid found in milk. This process softens the tannins, thereby enhancing the wine’s weight and texture. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots.

Port de la Lune Cellars produces 50,000 bottles of wine each year, and the Laurent personally bottles and wax seals each one (I’m not joking). As he tells it, he tried to recruit people to help him, but after a couple of hours, they had had enough.

All Port de la Lune Cellars wines are organic, meaning they are made with only natural yeast, 1% sulfur, and no fining or filtering. We sampled two white wines and two red wines, all of which were of excellent quality.

A significant portion of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wine is exported, while some is also available for sale in Bordeaux. You can visit Port de la Lune Cellars’ website and use “Click and Collect,” which allows you to purchase the wine online and then schedule a pickup time at Port de la Lune Cellars. However, be aware that Port de la Lune Cellars is a what I call a “wine cellar speakeasy,” meaning there is no sign on the door, so it is easy to walk right past.

Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars' wines since 2017 — Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wines since 2017

Port de la Lune Cellars collects grapes from various wine regions across France that otherwise would not meet and introduces them to each other in Bordeaux through its winemaking process. The result is a “Wine made in Bordeaux” that is modern and appeals to a new generation, with interesting implications for addressing the impact of climate change on the French wine industry.

See my post “Best Place to Eat in Chartrons” to find a place to eat.

Port de la Lune Cellars
Address: 31 bis, rue Barillet-Deschamps, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 6 74 68 47 24

July 8, 2025October 4, 2025

Alsace Wine Region: In a Nutshell

I spent one month in Strasbourg, France, and took some time to learn about and tour the Alsace Wine Region. Here is what you need to know in a nutshell.

Alsace Wine Region Overview

Strasbourg is Alsace’s capital city. The region is situated on the upper eastern side of France, in the Rhine Valley.

Alsace is divided into two parts: Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin. Bas-Rhin is north of Strasbourg, and Haut-Rhin is south of Strasbourg on the low slopes of the Vosges Mountains.

The best vineyards are generally regarded to be associated with Haut-Rhin. Many of the Alsace Grand Cru vineyards are in Haut-Rhin.

Alsace Wine Region Soil

Alsace has undergone significant geological changes throughout its history, including the collapse of the Rhine Gap. These disruptions have resulted in a diverse range of soils, subsoils, and microclimates within the region. The soils include granite, shale, sandstone, marl, clay, alluvium, loess, and loam. For an in-depth explanation of the soils of Alsace, visit Vins Alsace and read their article titled “Geology of Alsace terroirs” to learn more.

Pictured here are pink clay, granite, shale, and fossilized snails

Alsacian Wine Region Grape Varietals

There are six white wines: Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat d’Alsace, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer, and one rosé or red wine: the Pinot Noir. Riesling is the king and accounts for approximately 22.5% of the wine produced in Alsace, according to the “Google Oracle.”

Alsace Wine Route

The Alsace Wine Route is the oldest in France. It begins in the city of Marlenheim, known as the “doorway to the Alsace Wine Route,” and ends in Thann, the final village along the route.

Route des Vins d'Alsace signpost — Route des Vins d’Alsace signpost

As you travel the route, you’ll pass through more than 70 charming villages. Even my friend Michael—who is a teetotaler and the cheapest man I know, someone who wouldn’t drink a glass of wine even if it were offered for free—enjoyed driving along the Alsace Wine Route with his wife.

Alsace Wine Route Touring

If you have a car, it is easy. I never drink and drive, so I hired a professional to take us on a half-day tour to see the beginning of the wine route.

Back of "Église-Saints-Pierre-et-Paul-d'Obernai" taken from the driver's window from the passenger seat — Back of “Église-Saints-Pierre-et-Paul-d’Obernai” taken from the driver’s window from the passenger seat

There are other options, such as the “Kutzig Open-top bus of the Alsatian Wine Route.” You can also find full and half-day tours on Viator, TripAdvisor, and GET YOUR GUIDE; and if you are lucky, you might see some storks along the route.

Alsacian Wine Tasting

There are countless places to taste Alsacian wine in Strasbourg and along the Alsace wine route. See my post “What to do in Strasbourg, France,” where I mention “Le Comptoir des Vignerons Alsaciens,” a wine store in the Strasbourg center that offers over 375 wines from Alsace, sourced from 75 independent producers.

Alsace Wine Region Summary

Except for Gewurztraminer, which I love, I was not a fan of Alsace wines before visiting the region, and nothing I tasted or experienced during my stay changed my opinion. However, this highlights the beauty of food and wine preferences: there is no right or wrong choice, only what you enjoy.

On a positive note, I discovered the grape varietal Sylvaner, which is used to produce Sylvaner d’Alsace, a refreshing, light, and delicate Alsatian wine that I would describe as a perfect “picnic wine.”

May 26, 2025October 4, 2025

36 Hour in Chablis, France

Since 2019, when I first tried my first Chablis Grand Cru, it has been my dream to stand on the hill of Chablis. So, when my wife and I visited Dijon for a month, I planned a trip from Dijon for a day and a half.

So, if you are asking about what to do in Chablis or are interested in wine tasting in Chablis, this is what I discovered.

Let’s go!

Chablis soil

To understand Chablis, you have to appreciate its soil.

First, it’s essential to know that Chablis was once covered by the sea millions of years ago. As a result, its soil is a mixture of clay and calcium-rich limestone rocks called marl. The vineyards are littered with stones.

Clay and limestone soil, Chablis, France

Why? Limestone rocks form when small sea creatures die, and they sink to the ocean floor. Over time, as their skeletons and shells accumulate on top of one another, the pressure causes them to transform into rock.

Second, you need to know that Chablis has two types of soils: Kimmeridgian and Portlandian. The Kimmeridgian soil is older and is located lower on the hill. It has a higher limestone content and is mineral-rich. The ground is littered with stones (called marl) and contains fossilized oyster shells. Portlandian limestone is younger, located higher on the hill, has less limestone content, and lacks minerality. Its stones do not have sea fossils.

Third, you need to know that the more mineral-rich the soil, the drier and fresher the wines are; the less mineral-rich the soil, the more weighty and richly flavored the wines are.

Chablis in a nutshell

Now that you clearly understand the Chablis soil, here are some essential things to know:

The entire Chablis wine region spans approximately 6,000 hectares, or 14,832 acres (1 hectare = 2.471 acres); it is small.
The Serein River flows through Chablis, dividing the wine region into a right and left bank; the river is smaller than you think when you see it.

When standing at the bottom of the hill and looking up, you can only see the middle, not its peak. The top of the mountain is past the treeline, and it is flatter.
Based on quality, Chablis is classified into four types: Petit Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. Petit Chablis is the lesser, and Grand Cru is the queen.
A Chablis vineyard’s microclimate or terroir is defined by its location on the hillside and factors such as sunlight, rainfall, wind, and viticulture practices. There are 47 separate microclimates for Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru: 40 Premier Cru and 7 Grand Cru.
The finest Chablis, known as Chablis Grand Cru, is produced exclusively on the right bank hill bounded by the road. Spanning only 100 hectares. The hill is steeper. It has a southern exposure, more prolonged sun exposure, and thinner topsoil. The soil is 100% Kimmeridgian, rich with fossils. Premier Cru is produced on different hectares on both sides of the hill.
When visiting Chablis, drink Chablis Premier Cru or Chablis Grand Cru; both are widely available and reasonably priced, and you won’t find better access to these wines anywhere else.

Tasting Chablis wine

Chablis is a small town. It is easy to walk around and taste wine. Shops and tasting rooms are owned by individual wine producers, where you can learn about and try Chablis wines. Tastings are not expensive, and in some cases, the tasting cost can be applied to the wine purchased.

A basic tasting includes a Petit Chablis, Chablis, and Premier Cru. Most do not include a Grand Cru because many winemakers do not have a lot of Grand Cru on hand. Why? Because they do not own any Grand Cru vineyards. Instead, they must buy Grand Cru grapes to make a Grand Cru. What they make, they must sell by the bottle.

The best place I found to taste wine in Chablis is William Fèvre. Why? William Fèvre is the largest owner of the Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards on the hill. So, you can taste Petit Chablis, Chablis, and its Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru.

William Fèvre Chablis wine tasting, Chablis France

Plus, the wine consultants are highly knowledgeable and, during the tasting, lead you on an in-depth tour of Chablis without the tasting room.

William Fèvre tasting room
8 Rue Jules Rathier, 89800 Chablis

Touring Chablis vineyards

We spent 36 hours in Chablis but managed to go on two wine tours.

The first Cablis wine tour was with Clotilde Davenne’s boutique, a small shop in downtown Chablis. I chose them because they offered a private tour and drove you around Chablis Grand Cru hill in an electric Citroën Méhari, a lightweight car with a plastic body. It is named after the fast-running dromedary camel, the méhari. Citroën stopped making the car in 1988.

“Clotilde Davenne” is owned and operated by Clotilde Davenne, a French woman entrepreneur who grew up in Burgundy at the foot of the Morvan mountains. See my post “The Best Restaurants in Dijon” to learn about Morvan and Morvan ham. She has quite a story to tell, and when we were there, the staff was preparing for the winery’s 20th anniversary.

Zipping around the Chablis Grand Cru vineyard in the Citroën Méhari with my wife was a hoot. The guide who drove us around was knowledgeable enough. After the drive, you return to Clotilde Davenne’s boutique for a short Chablis wine tasting.

Driving around the Chablis Grand Cru hill in a Citroën Méhari

The second wine tour was with Domaine Céline and Frédéric Gueguen, whose tasting room is right across the street from William Fèvre’s tasting room in Chablis (See above). Gueguen offers two options: a Chablis wine tasting only or a Chablis vineyard tour and tasting in English. We did both.

On day one, we began with the Chablis wine tasting, which was very informative. It included maps and a detailed description of the terroir, covering aspects such as soil type, climate and weather patterns, and topography, including elevation, slope, and sun exposure. Additionally, a looping video in French illustrates Chablis’s geographical history and formation, which is very educational even if you do not speak French.

On the second day, we took a Chablis vineyard tour and wine tasting that perfectly complemented Clotilde Davenne’s boutique experience, which I have previously discussed. Domaine Gueguen’s guide drove us to the top of the hill and parked the van. From there, we walked down to the Grand Cru vineyards for an informative discussion.

View looking down on Valmur Grand Cru, Chablis, France

Afterward, we made our way back up the hill—an easy walk—and strolled through the Petit Chablis vineyards.

Looking back at Chablis, France, from the Petite Chablis vineyards

Then we walked across the Petit Chablis vineyards to view the Premier Cru vineyards on the other side, before returning to the van. I was happy with this tour, especially since we hadn’t reached the top of the hill the day before; I don’t think the plastic Citroën Méhari could have made it.

View of Premium Cru Vineyards from the Petit Chablis vineyards, Chablis, France