Port de la Lune Cellars is the first “urban winery” in Bordeaux. It is located in the Chartrons neighborhood. Laurent Bordes founded Port de la Lune Cellars in 2017 to produce wines that are not typically associated with the Bordeaux wine region. As he explained, every other winemaker in Bordeaux makes Bordeaux wines. Why should Port de la Lune Cellars?
As Laurent told us, with a clear vision, he decided to operate outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system and its regulations. The AOC establishes the rules for all French wines, including those from Bordeaux. Instead, he decided to produce “Vin de France” (VdF) wines. Also known as “Wine of France.” VdF regulations allow winemakers more flexibility compared to AOC rules.
To realize his vision, as he tells it, Laurent reached out to winegrowers throughout France to source grapes. This was a challenging task, as sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is typical in New World wine regions, such as Napa, California; however, it is less common in France, except in the Burgundy region.
According to Laurent, at first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent’s request. “You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!” Eventually, they understood—today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across France.
Laurent told us that he drives over 10,000 kilometers each year during the harvest to collect grapes and transport them back to Bordeaux for winemaking. After the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location in Bordeaux, the freshly pressed grape juice, known as “must,” is transported to the Port de la Lune Cellars, where alcoholic fermentation (first fermentation) takes place in stainless steel tanks.
During our visit, Laurent explained that all the wines from Port de la Lune Cellars undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with the oak enhances the wines’ aromas and permits oxygen to enter the wine gradually. As a result, the sharp malic acid is converted into softer, creamier lactic acid—similar to the acid found in milk. This process softens the tannins, thereby enhancing the wine’s weight and texture. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots.
Port de la Lune Cellars produces 50,000 bottles of wine each year, and the Laurent personally bottles and wax seals each one (I’m not joking). As he tells it, he tried to recruit people to help him, but after a couple of hours, they had had enough.
All Port de la Lune Cellars wines are organic, meaning they are made with only natural yeast, 1% sulfur, and no fining or filtering. We sampled two white wines and two red wines, all of which were of excellent quality.
A significant portion of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wine is exported, while some is also available for sale in Bordeaux. You can visit Port de la Lune Cellars’ website and use “Click and Collect,” which allows you to purchase the wine online and then schedule a pickup time at Port de la Lune Cellars. However, be aware that Port de la Lune Cellars is a what I call a “wine cellar speakeasy,” meaning there is no sign on the door, so it is easy to walk right past.
Port de la Lune Cellars collects grapes from various wine regions across France that otherwise would not meet and introduces them to each other in Bordeaux through its winemaking process. The result is a “Wine made in Bordeaux” that is modern and appeals to a new generation, with interesting implications for addressing the impact of climate change on the French wine industry.
See my post “Best Place to Eat in Chartrons” to find a place to eat.
Port de la Lune Cellars
Address: 31 bis, rue Barillet-Deschamps, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 6 74 68 47 24