My wife and I visited Caves de Rauzan today, a wine cooperative in Entre-deux-Mers, the largest wine-producing sub-region of Bordeaux. It was a cold, cloudy day, but it gave us a “backstage pass” to the inner workings of a Bordeaux wine cooperative. It was a lot of fun and very informative.
Caves de Rauzan, Rauzan, France
Entre-Deux-Mers Overview
Entre-Deux-Mers is a large, triangular area of land southeast of Bordeaux. It sits between the Garonne and Dordogne tidal rivers, which led people in the Middle Ages to call it “Entre-Deux-Mers,” or “between two seas.” This area is the largest wine-making sub-region in Bordeaux. It is a hilly area with about 7,000 hectares of vineyards.
There are nine Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOCs) across the Entre-Deux-Mers: Entre-Deux-Mers AOC; Premières Côtes de Bordeaux AOC; Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC; Cadillac AOC; Loupiac AOC; St-Macaire AOC; Graves de Vayres AOC; and Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux AOC for sweet wines. The soils vary across the AOCs and include sand, clay, clay-limestone, and gravel. The area has a mild, oceanic climate.
Entre-Deux-Mers AOC
It is a bit confusing because the Entre-Deux-Mers is both the name of the general area and an AOC. The Entre-Deux-Mers AOC wine appellation was established in 1937 and initially allowed both dry and sweet white wines. In 1957, the rules changed so that only dry white wine could be made, labeled, and sold as Entre-Deux-Mers. The main white grapes grown here are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle, and a few others.
Red wines have always been produced in Entre-Deux-Mers, but until recently, they could be labeled only as Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur. On August 25, 2023, the Entre-Deux-Mers Rouge AOC was introduced, allowing red wines to be sold under the Entre-Deux-Mers name. Starting with the 2023 vintage, Entre-Deux-Mers winemakers chose to label their red wines Bordeaux AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur, or Entre-Deux-Mers.
The approved red grape varieties for Entre-Deux-Mers AOC wines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec (Cot), Cabernet Franc, and Petite Verdot. Carmenère is an “accessory variety” and can make up no more than 30% of the final blend. Each wine must include at least two grape varieties.
What is a Wine Cooperative
A cooperative is an organization of individuals that come together to share costs. At the heart of all cooperatives is the “mutualization of financial means.” Uh?
Picture yourself as a small winemaker. On your own, you don’t have enough resources to manage the vineyard and make and sell your own wine. So, what can you do? You team up with other local winemakers in your area, and combine your resources to share the costs of managing all the vineyards and create and staff a central location for making and selling wine. “Mutualization of financial means” is at the center of any cooperative.
Caves de Rauzan Wine Cooperative
Caves de Rauzan is a cooperative of 230 Entre-deux-Mers winemakers that have come together to share the cost of making and selling their wine. Members jointly own and manage the cooperative, ensuring every winemaker has a voice in decision-making and a share of the profits based on the quality and quantity of their contributions.
It basically works like this (the exact details may not be 100% correct): When a winemaker joins the cooperative, they pay a fee based on their size and get shares in the cooperative, which are returned to them if and when they leave. Every year at harvest time, the winemakers deliver their grapes to the cooperative’s central winemaking facility, where the GM and his team make and sell the wine.
When the wine is made and sold, each winemaker is compensated based on the quantity, the quality, and, for red wines, the “peripheral” of the grapes they delivered. 70% of the wine is sold by the cooperative as bulk wine and shipped off, for instance, to Canada, where it is bottled and sold by others. The rest is bottled on demand for supermarkets or others, or as the cooperative sees fit for B-to-C sales.
My wife and I visited the Château de Reignac in Bordeaux’s Entre-deux-Mers region and learned much about its unique history and wines.
The Château was built in the 16th century. In 1990, Yves Vatelot, a French inventor and entrepreneur, bought the estate, restored the buildings, updated the wine-making facilities, and collaborated with oenologist consultant Michel Rollan to focus on the vineyards and winemaking.
Today, Château de Reignac is seen as one of the top estates in Entre-deux-Mers and the larger Bordeaux wine region. It is recognized for its excellent terroir, consistent quality driven by its focus on excellence, and its value for money.
Château de Reignac, Saint-Loubès, France
The “inner workings” of the patented Vatelot method, see picture below.
In the 19th century, a greenhouse attributed to the engineer Gustave Eiffel was added to the estate; see the picture below.
Tasting Notes: BALTHVS, 2016
Tasted in non-blind conditions in my Airbnb in Bordeaux, France.
Bordeaux 2016: According to The Wine Cellar Insider, the 2016 Bordeaux season began with unusually cool and record-setting wet weather. Despite this, early June flowering, particularly for Merlot, was highly successful, resulting in the most significant crop per hectare since 2004. But the summer drought left many vineyards short of moisture by September, causing some vines to nearly halt their growth to conserve energy.
Although Merlot remained abundant and healthy, it required water. Rainfall on September 13 and 14 benefited the Merlot, while additional rain on September 30 and October 1 arrived when Cabernet Sauvignon needed it most. These conditions required winemakers to pick carefully and sort grapes, separating overripe and drought-affected fruit from ripe, fresh ones. Notably, there was virtually no rot on the red grapes for the third consecutive year (See 2016 Bordeaux Harvest and Vintage Report).
Grape varieties: 100% Merlot (old vine 30 years)
About the wine: According to the Château de Reignac 2016 fact sheet, in terms of viticulture, spring de-budding was performed to remove buds on the vine’s spurs or branches that were considered to be of little or no use to the vine. Leaves were manually thinned, and removal was performed on the east-facing side to allow for morning sun. Green harvesting was conducted twice to remove excess green bunches from the vines before the grapes changed color and the sugar content rose, reducing yield, concentrating nutrients, and releasing them to the remaining bunches to build healthier grapes.
In terms of vinification, the grapes were cold macerated at 6°C for 7 days before fermentation. They then fermented for 35 days in two new oak barrels using the patented Vatelot method, which also included post-fermentation maceration. After this, the wine was racked to barrels and underwent malolactic fermentation.
Finally, the wine was aged in 100% new oak barrels, stirring the lees in the barrels stacked using the Oxoline system. Coopers: Garonnaise.
Appearance (Visual examination): A bright, red wine free of sediment and gas with a dark, inky purple color, a cherry-copper rim, and a deep inky purple hue; moderately concentrated with medium-low viscosity.
Nose (Olfactory examination): Medium intensity with notes of black fruit, such as plum, sour cherry, flower aromas of lavender, and nuances of chocolate, tobacco, and black pepper.
Palate (Gustative examination): Elegant, yet fresh. Structured with richness and silky tannins, the finish is well-balanced, with a persistence that leaves a lingering hint of spicy dark chocolate on the palate.
Service: Decant for 1 hour. Serve at 16-18°C (61-64°F) in a Bordeaux wine glass.
Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise, rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce, served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries), is a classic pairing.
I made and paired the BALTHVS, 2016, with an “Aberdeen Angus Steak” from “Gastronomie Des Pyrénées,” a port wine foie gras sauce, and freshly harvested young, small sauteed potatoes.
Bonvivant365’s “Aberdeen Angus Steak” from “Gastronomie Des Pyrénées,” port wine foie gras sauce, young sauteed potatoes
Summary: Château de Reignac’s “BALTHVS,” 2016, is an easy-drinking red wine that, once awake, is a joy to spend time with, never tiring.
Source and price: Château de Reignac, 60 euros.
Reviews: 92-93/100 J. Suckling
Château de Reignac Address: 38 Chem. de Reignac, 33450 Saint-Loubès Phone: 05 56 20 41 05 https://reignac.com/en/
To learn about our visit to the largest wine cooperative in the Entre-deux-Mers region, see my post Caves de Rauzan Visit.
Maison Nouvelle is a 2-star MICHELIN restaurant in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. It is led by Chef Philippe Etchebest and his wife, Dominique. Philippe Etchebest is a renowned chef and celebrity television personality, known for shows such as “Top Chef” and “Kitchen Nightmares.” He holds the prestigious title of “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” (MOF), which signifies that he is among the top chefs in the country and is recognized for his exceptional craftsmanship.
Maison Nouvelle, Chartrons, Bordeaux, France
Upon arriving at Maison Nouvelle, you ring the front doorbell as if you were visiting a friend’s house for lunch. The greeting is warm and friendly. The atmosphere is warm and inviting. Maison Nouvelle exudes a quiet luxury that emphasizes quality and simplicity. We felt right at home.
Maison Nouvelle’s bar, Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle bar seating area, Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle, dining area, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The communication before lunch was impressive. I was able to convey my wife’s preferences to the chef, who adapted the menu accordingly. Specifically, she prefers beef cooked medium well.
My wife began with a glass of “Tradition Rosé Brute, Fernand Lemaire, Champagne. I began with a glass of Valérie & Gaël Dupont’s “Heureuse Rencontre” Extra Brut Champagne. All of which paired excellently with the small snacks we were served.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Amuse-bouche,” Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle’s fruit gel, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
We were then served “Freshwater Squash.” Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, and Saint-Émilion soy sauce.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Freshwater Squash,” featuring Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, and Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux.Maison Nouvelle’s “Freshwater Squash,” Kabocha squash in a royal sauce, marinated eel, Saint-Émilion soy sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Next “Shell and Root,” Seared scallops, tuberous chervil, hazelnut milk yogurt.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Shell and Root,” Chartrons, BordeauxMaison Nouvelle’s knives, Chartrons, Bordeaux
I was served the “Grape Harvester Pigeon,” Roast pigeon on the breast, porcini mushrooms, mustard grapes, Merlot reduction jus.
Maison Nouvelle’s “Grape Harvester Pigeon”: roasted pigeon breast with porcini mushrooms, mustard grapes, and Merlot reduction jus.
Since the 1990s, I have dined at numerous MICHELIN-starred restaurants around the world. However, my lunch at Maison Nouvelle was one of the most impressive experiences I have ever had, earning a perfect Bonvivat365 rating of 25.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
My wife and I live in Bordeaux, where we are attending wine school. We decided to visit Soléna Restaurant for lunch, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Bordeaux run by chef Victor Ostronzec.
Soléna Restaurant, Bordeaux, France
We received a warm and friendly welcome. The space is small, featuring a window (limited) into the kitchen, and is well-organized, filled with natural colors that evoke a sense of relaxation and serenity, which creates a sense of isolation from the distractions of the outside world. When all guests arrive, the atmosphere becomes lively and energetic, creating a vibrant ambiance.
The MICHELIN-starred restaurant offers multiple menus, with options varying by day and time. We chose the five-course “Balande Par Chez Nous” (English: “Walk Around Our Place”) with wine pairing. It’s important to note that all menus are labeled as “Chef’s Surprise,” so you won’t know what you will be served. However, the staff collects all necessary information to be aware of any allergies or dietary preferences so that the chef can adapt your experience accordingly.
While some people may not enjoy the “Chef’s Surprise” concept, we appreciate it because it encourages us to “taste outside the box.” As someone famously once said, “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.”
As an apéritif, I ordered the “Cocktail Maison,” which was a Moscow Mule made with ginger beer and vodka, as pictured below. My wife passed on the apéritif.
Soléna Restaurant’s Cocktail Maison,” a Moscow Mule made with ginger beer and vodka, Bordeaux, France
We were served an amuse-bouche featuring a variety of delightful bites: a blackcurrant macaron filled with a hint of foie gras, a strudel filled with Mimolette cheese, steamed bread stuffed with smoked anchovies, crispy pistachio paired with sorrel, cereal, and whelks garnished with shiso and mayonnaise, as shown below. Each was YUMMY.
Soléna Restaurant’s blackcurrant macaron bites filled with a hint of foie gras and strudel bites filled with Mimolette cheeseSoléna Restaurant’s strudel filled with Mimolette cheese and steamed bread stuffed with smoked anchovies, Bordeaux, FranceSoléna Restaurant’s whelks garnished with shiso and mayonnaise, Bordeaux, France
Following the amuse-bouche, we were served two slices of homemade brioche and an olive tasting of Le Carre Des Huiles’ PDO olive oil from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence, as pictured below.
Soléna Restaurant’s olive tasting of Le Carre Des Huiles’ PDO olive oil from the Vallée des Baux-de-Provence, Bordeaux, France
The starter consisted of scallops accompanied by a watercress coulis and smoked cauliflower, as shown in the picture below. Soléna paired the palate with Domaine Charles Joguet, Les Petites Roches Blanc, 2024.
Soléna Restaurant’s scallops, accompanied by a watercress coulis and smoked cauliflower, Bordeaux, France
The main course began with a fish dish: red mullet, perfectly cooked and served with carrots and a clear shiso bone broth, as shown in the picture below. Soléna paired the plate with Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rosé 2023, a classic Bandol rosé.
Soléna Restaurant’s red mullet, perfectly cooked and served with carrots and a clear shiso bone broth, Bordeaux, France
The next dish was venison ravioli, accompanied by black trumpet mushroom tapenade in a black pepper emulsion, as pictured below. Soléna paired the plate with a Château La Brande, Castillon, Côtes de Bordeaux 2019, featuring dark fruits that lingered on the palate, complementing the earthy dish well.
Soléna Restaurant’s ravioli accompanied by black trumpet mushroom tapenade in a black pepper emulsion, Bordeaux, France
We were served two desserts. The first was Lovita plum served with ginger and Koji ice cream, as shown in the picture below.
Soléna Restaurant’s Lovita plum served with ginger and Koji ice cream, Bordeaux, France
The second dessert was dark chocolate with pecans, accompanied by yogurt sorbet, as depicted in the image below. Soléna paired the plate with a Maury Grenat, a benchmark in Roussillon, made from 100% Grenache Noir, which was a perfect complement to the chef’s chocolate dessert.
Soléna Restaurant’s dark chocolate filled with pecans and yogurt sorbet, Bordeaux, France
In summary, we found Soléna’s ambiance, vibe, and service to be above average. Overall, the wine pairing was well-executed, but we felt the first wine was too acidic to complement the scallop dish. The last three wines were enjoyable but not particularly surprising so that we would categorize them as average. If given the chance to do it again, we would choose our own glasses of wine or opt to buy a bottle. The presentation and plating were mixed, with some aspects being average and others exceeding expectations. The yummy quotient was high, while the desserts, although simple, were above average.
Soléna Restaurant is a fine MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in Bordeaux that is worth trying. We are glad that we did.
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Today, my wife and I had the fortunate opportunity to join a wine excursion organized by the wine school we are attending (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). We visited Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé of 1855, located within the Pauillac AOC.
Château Batailley, Grand-Cru-Classé-en-1855, Pauillac AOC
The name “Batailley” comes from the word “Bataille,” which means “battle.” This refers to the conflict that occurred between the French and the English on the same estate in 1453. Château Batailley is one of the oldest estates in Pauillac.
The Classified Growths of 1885
What is “The Classified Growths of 1885,” you ask? In a nutshell, a world’s fair was going to be held in Paris in 1855, known as the 1855 Paris Exposition (French: Exposition Universelle de 1855).
Emperor Napoleon III sought to showcase Bordeaux wines, which had already gained fame in the Middle Ages due to the marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine, whose union had opened the Bordeaux region to the English market and eventually the world.
So, the Emperor requested that the French wine merchants (known as négociants) create a list of the best Bordeaux wines. The wine négociants ranked Bordeaux wines based on each château’s reputation and trading prices, which were directly tied to the quality of the wines produced by each château at that time.
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar
The wine merchants compiled a list ranking the châteaux as first, second, third, fourth, and fifth most important “growths.” Thus, the “Les Grands Crus classés en 1855” (English: The Classified Growths of 1885) was born, and it stuck.
The Classified Growths of 1885 included 58 châteaux: four were ranked as first growths, 12 as second growths, 14 as third growths, 11 as fourth growths, and 17 as fifth growths. Château Batailley was ranked as a first growth.
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar bottles
Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé en 1855
My wife and I have visited many wineries over the years, but this one stands out as the best. We started our day with a tour of the winemaking operations, led by the winemaker. We were fortunate to witness the process of recovering and pressing the “cap of marc” to obtain press wine that is rich in aromatics and tannins. It was the first time we had seen this done.
After the tour, we enjoyed a tasting of Château Batailley’s wines. This was followed by a lovely lunch hosted by the winery’s president. I cannot express enough how kind and generous our hosts were. The entire day was magical, and I extend my heartfelt thanks to everyone involved.
Recovering and pressing the “cap of marc.”
During alcoholic fermentation of red wine in a tank, yeast converts sugar into alcohol, producing significant amounts of carbon dioxide (CO2). This gas pushes solid components, such as grape skins, pulp, and seeds, upward to the top of the tank, forming a layer known as the “cap of marc.”
Throughout alcoholic fermentation, the cap is pushed down into the fermenting grape juice at the winemaker’s discretion. The technique used to break up the floating fruit skins and solids and push them back into the wine is called “punching the cap.” This practice enhances the wine’s flavor and varies in intensity depending on the winemaker’s goals. Instead of punching down, a winemaker may choose to use the “pouring over method.”
After alcoholic fermentation and any additional maceration are complete, the wine is “racked,” meaning it is transferred from the tank to another tank or barrel. At this stage, the wine is known as free-run wine, which is the liquid that flows out of the tank by gravity when the bottom valve is opened after fermentation.
The “cap of marc” is being removed from the tank for pressing
When the free-run wine is removed, the marc cap, which consists of all the solid parts, such as grape skins and seeds, settles to the bottom of the tank. A person then climbs into the tank to shovel out this material, which is fed into a press to extract the juice known as “must” (using manual, hydraulic, or pneumatic methods). This is called “press wine.”
Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine.”
The “press wine” is collected, tasted, and typically stored in vats or barrels based on its quality. Normally, the winemaker combines the press wine with the free-run wine, depending on their objectives.
The remaining solids, known as pomace, are discarded or repurposed for other uses, such as producing spirits or fertilizers.
Tasting Note: Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017
We sampled a variety of wines, all excellent. However, I want to highlight the Château Batailley “first wine,” which is the winery’s flagship bottling. This wine is a Pauillac AOC wine and has been classified as a 5th Growth since 1855, as discussed above.
Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017
Bordeaux 2017: According to the Wine Cellar Insider, “The 2017 Bordeaux vintage is notable for the significant frost that affected the region in April. The best wines from this vintage come from the northern Médoc, with quality diminishing further south. On the Right Bank, Pomerol outperforms Saint-Émilion. However, the 2017 Bordeaux vintage is characterized more by localized terroirs than by specific appellations. The gravel slopes in the northern Médoc, particularly in Pauillac, produced powerful wines.”
Visual examination: A dark purple color with a cherry-copper rim and a deep ruby hue.
Olfactory examination: Medium plus intensity with notes of ripe fruit, such as blackcurrants, followed by spicy, dark chocolate notes, and a whiff of tobacco.
Gustative examination: Elegant, yet fresh. Structured with richness and tannins, revealing its good bottle-ageing potential. The finish is well-balanced with silky tannins and a persistence that leaves a lingering hint of dark chocolate on the palate.
Grape varieties: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot
Serving Temperature: 16-18°C or 61 to 64°F
Aging potential: Drink now or in the next 10-20 years.
Reviews: 92/100 Wine Enthusiast
Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise (Rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce) served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries).
Summary: Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé since 1855, beautifully represents Pauillac, offering tremendous value for money with an average price of €33 or $38 on Wine-Searcher.
Note: The five châteaux from 1885 ranked as First Growths, or Premiers Crus Classés, are Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, and Haut-Brion.
Paid tasting of Chateau Margaux 2011 at Max Bordeaux, Wine Gallery & Cellar in Bordeaux, France
My wife and I visited the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council (CIVB) in Bordeaux for a wine workshop and blind tasting. Afterward, we went to its wine bar, “Le Bar à Vin” (“The CIVB Wine Bar”). The experience was both educational and enjoyable.
Le Bar à Vin, Bordeaux, France
From my visit, I learned that the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council:
Conducts essential studies to guide, regulate, and organize the Bordeaux wine market.
Aims to promote and enhance the demand for Bordeaux wines.
Monitors the quality of Bordeaux wines during the marketing phase and supports research efforts to adapt the vineyard and improve wine quality.
Supports an application called “OENO Bordeaux,” a web and mobile training application, and a “Bordeaux Immersive Map” application. Both are available as downloads from Google and Apple.
“Wine Tunes” is an online music playlist designed for enjoying with a glass of wine.
It also hosts an online portal, “Bordeaux Connect,” dedicated solely to Bordeaux wine professionals. I am sure I am leaving something out, but you get the point. In terms of the Bordeaux wine industry, all roads lead to the CVIB.
Finally, and perhaps most importantly for everyone visiting this blog post, the CVIB runs a chic wine bar called “Le Bar à Vin,” where you can taste 30 Bordeaux wines by the glass at affordable prices. The selection is regularly updated to feature different Bordeaux wines.
Le Bar à Vin side seating area, Bordeaux, France
My wife and I participated in a Bordeaux wine tasting workshop that included an excellent presentation on the Bordeaux Wine Region and a blind tasting of six Bourdeux wines. The experience was both educational and enjoyable.
Port de la Lune Cellars is the first “urban winery” in Bordeaux. It is located in the Chartrons neighborhood. Laurent Bordes founded Port de la Lune Cellars in 2017 to produce wines that are not typically associated with the Bordeaux wine region. As he explained, every other winemaker in Bordeaux makes Bordeaux wines. Why should Port de la Lune Cellars?
As Laurent told us, with a clear vision, he decided to operate outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system and its regulations. The AOC establishes the rules for all French wines, including those from Bordeaux. Instead, he decided to produce “Vin de France” (VdF) wines. Also known as “Wine of France.” VdF regulations allow winemakers more flexibility compared to AOC rules.
Port de la Lune Cellars’ urban wine cellar
To realize his vision, as he tells it, Laurent reached out to winegrowers throughout France to source grapes. This was a challenging task, as sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is typical in New World wine regions, such as Napa, California; however, it is less common in France, except in the Burgundy region.
According to Laurent, at first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent’s request. “You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!” Eventually, they understood—today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across France.
Laurent told us that he drives over 10,000 kilometers each year during the harvest to collect grapes and transport them back to Bordeaux for winemaking. After the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location in Bordeaux, the freshly pressed grape juice, known as “must,” is transported to the Port de la Lune Cellars, where alcoholic fermentation (first fermentation) takes place in stainless steel tanks.
During our visit, Laurent explained that all the wines from Port de la Lune Cellars undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with the oak enhances the wines’ aromas and permits oxygen to enter the wine gradually. As a result, the sharp malic acid is converted into softer, creamier lactic acid—similar to the acid found in milk. This process softens the tannins, thereby enhancing the wine’s weight and texture. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots.
Port de la Lune Cellars produces 50,000 bottles of wine each year, and the Laurent personally bottles and wax seals each one (I’m not joking). As he tells it, he tried to recruit people to help him, but after a couple of hours, they had had enough.
All Port de la Lune Cellars wines are organic, meaning they are made with only natural yeast, 1% sulfur, and no fining or filtering. We sampled two white wines and two red wines, all of which were of excellent quality.
A significant portion of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wine is exported, while some is also available for sale in Bordeaux. You can visit Port de la Lune Cellars’ website and use “Click and Collect,” which allows you to purchase the wine online and then schedule a pickup time at Port de la Lune Cellars. However, be aware that Port de la Lune Cellars is a what I call a “wine cellar speakeasy,” meaning there is no sign on the door, so it is easy to walk right past.
Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wines since 2017
Port de la Lune Cellars collects grapes from various wine regions across France that otherwise would not meet and introduces them to each other in Bordeaux through its winemaking process. The result is a “Wine made in Bordeaux” that is modern and appeals to a new generation, with interesting implications for addressing the impact of climate change on the French wine industry.
My wife and I are attending wine school in Bordeaux. We decided to stay in the Chartrons neighborhood for nearly six months because it’s only a 10-minute walk to the school.
I explored every nook and cranny, searching for the best restaurants in Chatrons and places to eat, which I outline below, and end with things to do.
Steeples of “Église Saint Louis des Chartrons” as seen from my Airbnb living room window
As I write this, it’s 9 AM, and the bells of Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons, located just a block from our Airbnb, are ringing to signal the start of Mass.
Chartrons, once the hub of the wine trade in Bordeaux, is now a family-friendly district filled with artisan workshops, boutiques, cafes, and rich history, especially along Rue Notre-Dame. We’re located at the corner of Rue Notre-Dame and Rue Latour, right in the heart of the neighborhood.
On a weekday morning, as we head to school around 8:45 AM, the atmosphere is magical. It reminds me of the scene in “My Fair Lady,” where the market slowly comes to life. The streets are bustling with people as they begin their day, heading to school or work. The locals in Chartrons are friendly, and I often stroll from shop to shop, engaging with the store owners. This neighborhood has become one of my favorite places to live, and I will miss it.
Basque taco, Marché des Quais
The “Basque taco stand) (as I call it) can be found at the Marché des Quais, also known as the Chartrons Quays Market, which is open from early Sunday morning until early afternoon. The Quays is the waterfront walkway along the Garonne River. The market begins approximately at the intersection of Rue Latour and Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux. It is located just across the street in the Garonne River Run area, stretching a few blocks toward the Cité du Vin.
The stand serves “Basque Taco,” or “Talos con Chistorra” (which means Corn Tortillas with Sausage in English). It’s a Navarran corn tortilla filled with sausage, cheese, and, I think, onions and peppers. They taste amazing.
French Birria Tacos, called Taloa, a traditional Basque wrap made from corn flour (aka masa harina) filled with sausage, cheese, onions, and peppers, Chartrons, Bordeaux
UPDATE: My wife went to the market today and brought home a “Talos con Chistorra” for us to share and an entree before we made lunch. I cut it in half and plated it so you could get a better look. It was delicious even as a takeaway.
Bistro, Bistrot Maurice
Bistrot Maurice is just a few blocks from where we go to wine school. We walk by it all the time. Today we decided to give it a try. I am sure glad we did. It was, hands down, one of the best bistro experiences I have had in France since we arrived in August 2024.
Bistro Maurice, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Bistro Maurice is a classic French bistro serving traditional dishes in a relaxed, cozy atmosphere. A sidewalk terrace is available, along with indoor seating. The first room is small and quintessentially bistro-like, with a few tables and the kitchen, where all the action takes place. The second room is a newly designed, beautifully appointed dining area located in the adjacent hotel. We opted to sit at the counter in the first room, which lets you look directly into the kitchen, creating a chef’s table experience.
Bistro Maurice offers three typical lunch menu options: a starter and main course, a main course and dessert, or a starter, main course, and dessert. My wife chose the main course and dessert. I chose the starter, main course, and dessert. For my starter, I chose the mussels, straw potatoes, and celery stalks (see the picture below), paired with a white Bordeaux, which complemented the dish nicely.
Bistro Maurice’s mussels, straw potatoes, and celery stalks, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For her main course, my wife chose “Maurice’s Caesar Salad,” a giant, tasty Caesar salad with a fried chicken filet that she could eat every day for lunch (see the picture below).
Bistro Maurice’s “Caesar Salad,” with chicken, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For my main course, I chose the half duck breast, served with sweet potato puree and figs. The duck was cooked to perfection, see the picture below. I paired it with a glass of red wine from the Médoc. You can’t get a more classic French bistro dish.
Bistro Maurice’s half duck breast, served with sweet potato puree and figs, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Next came the cheese plate, as shown in the picture below, which I paired with a Chardonnay from Marcon.
The dessert was a millefeuille of apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, which I paired with a Tawny port. Millefeuille, which translates to “a thousand leaves,” refers to the layers of puff pastry stacked between various fillings. This dessert is also commonly known as a Napoleon or custard slice. Bistro Maurice’s millefeuille was served more like a custard slice, with a filling between two puff pastry layers, as shown in the picture below.
Bistro-Maurice’s millefeuille made with apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The dessert was a millefeuille made with apples, pears, vanilla whipped cream, and walnuts, which I paired with a Tawny Port. Millefeuille, which translates to “a thousand leaves,” refers to the layers of puff pastry that are stacked with various fillings. This dessert is also commonly known as a Napoleon or custard slice. At Bistro Maurice, the millefeuille resembled a custard slice more than a traditional version, featuring filling between two layers of puff pastry and “icing,” as shown in the picture below. It was perfect.
We had a fantastic experience at Bistro Maurice. The atmosphere, ambiance, and service were all excellent. From the moment we entered, the staff were warm, friendly, and accommodating, making us feel right at home. The wine options and the staff’s suggestions, available by the glass, were perfect. The presentation and plating had a lovely bistro feel. The food was delicious—Paul Bocuse would be proud. The dessert was creative and exceeded our expectations for a bistro.
Cafe Maruice, second visit
Wine school ended early today. My wife suggested that we go to Bristro Maurice again. Well, you do not have to ask me twice. So we raced up the queue and got our favorite counter spot overlooking the small, busy kitchen.
Bistro rating:
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
My wife and I went to Luna in Chartrons for lunch, a small bistro that offers bistronomic cuisine, a style that combines traditional bistro elements with high-end gastronomy. The menu features quality dishes made from fresh, local ingredients while maintaining the relaxed, friendly atmosphere typical of a bistro. It was a wonderful dining experience.
Luna’s amuse-bouche—a single, bite-sized hors d’œuvre consisting of slow-cooked meringue filled with a flavorful beetroot purée, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The wine-by-the-glass menu at Luna is impressive for a small bistro, which allowed me to work with the front-of-house staff to find the perfect wine pairing for my meal while exploring selections from all over France. My wife decided not to have wine during lunch because she needed to return to wine school.
As an aperitif, I began with Château Lauduc Crémant Lauduc Rosé Pétillant, a sparkling wine made from Cabernet Franc, produced in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, which paired well with the amuse-bouche we were served—a single, bite-sized hors d’œuvre consisting of slow-cooked meringue filled with a flavorful beetroot purée.
For her starter, my wife ordered the “Bluefin Tuna,” served Tataki-style, with a furikake condiment and a radish salad, as pictured below.
Luna’s “Bluefin tuna” served Tataki-style with furikake condiment, radish salad, Chartrons, Bordeaux
I chose the “Perfect Egg,” served with a green vegetable ragout, potato foam, and peanuts (pictured below), paired with Domaine des Allegrets Côtes de Duras Blanc, a Sauvignon Blanc from the Southwest France wine region.
Luna’s “Perfect Egg,” served with a green vegetable ragout, potato foam, and peanuts, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For the main course, I had the “Pork Belly,” served with miso eggplant, fig condiment, and pork jus (pictured below), paired with Domaine Vial-Magneres Le Petit Couscouril rouge, primarily made from Grenache Noir and blended with Syrah and Carignan.
Luna’s “Pork belly,” served with miso eggplant, fig condiment, and pork jus, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Domaine Vial-Magnères is a family-owned property located on the seaside in the communes of Banyuls and Port-Vendre, France. The wine had a brilliant garnet color, with a nose of black fruit aromas, including strawberry, cherry, and raspberry, along with hints of plum and fig. The spicy character of Grenache Noir was evident on the palate, with a balanced, persistent finish. It paired well with the pork belly.
My wife had the “Market Catch,” which consisted of roasted hake served with pea purée and a lemongrass-coconut broth, pictured below.
Luna’s market catch, roasted hake served with pea purée and a lemongrass-coconut broth, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For dessert, we shared a “Williams pear” with orange zest Bavarian cream, accompanied by a ladyfinger biscuit and vanilla ice cream (see picture below), paired with Domaine Semper Vintage Maury, and followed by Pâtes de Fruits—a well-executed “chef’s dessert.”
Luna’s Williams pear with orange zest Bavarian cream, accompanied by a ladyfinger biscuit and vanilla ice cream
Finally, I am puzzled as to why Luna is not recognized as a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant. In our opinion, it is on par with Racines by Daniel Gallacher, as well as the more gastronomic Panaille or Kedem, all of which are MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants we visited in Bordeaux, see my post “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.”
We enjoyed our experience at Luna so much that when my wife’s long-time friend visits us in December, we plan to take her there as well. If you’re considering a visit, be sure to use the website to make a reservation. Luna is small and always packed.
Luna second visit
We liked Luna so much that when a friend visited us in Chartrons, we brought them there for dinner. Some dishes were the same, but there were plenty of new ones too. I won’t list everything, but the meal was just as good as our first visit, maybe even better.
Luna’s “Cocktail of the moment,” Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Crab” in radish cannelloni, guacamole, and citrus gel, Chartrons, Bordeaux.Luna’s “Miso butter,” Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s Pork belly and gnocchi with cheese, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Fresh fish from the fish market,” roast, fennel puree, and grilled bulb, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Périgord Duck,” duck breast, potato mille-feuille, and Yakiniku poultry jus, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s “Hazelnut Financier,” crispy tuile, sabayon, and coffee ice cream, Chartrons, BordeauxLuna’s petit fours, Chartrons, Bordeaux
MICHLINE Selected Restaurants rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Paola in Chartrons is just one block from our Airbnb. We watched them renovate the space and open it two weeks ago. Paola is a small bakery full of personality and potential. My wife absolutely loves Paola’s “Brookie,” a combination of a chocolate chip cookie and a brownie.
Paola’s “Brookie,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Unlike the classic brookie made in a baking pan and cut into squares, Paola’s “brookie is shaped like a cookie” (I rhymed—LOL).
If you visit Chartrons, stopping by Paola and trying their brookie or other delights is fun.
Les Halles Bacalan is a market located in Chartrons, Bordeaux, featuring over 20 different food stalls. Some stalls offer counters with seating, while others do not. Additionally, tables and chairs are available throughout both the indoor and outdoor areas, where you can enjoy your meal. The concept is straightforward: you can choose any food you like and sit in any available spot in the open seating area.
One of our favorite stalls is Les Requins Marteaux, which specializes in seafood and offers a variety of delicious options. One of my personal favorites is their “Shrimp and Avocado Salad,” as shown in the picture below.
Les Requins Marteaux “Shrimp and Avocado Salad,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
We also love Les Requins Marteaux razor clams, pictured below.
Les Requins Marteaux’s razor clams, Chartrons, Bordeaux
And anchovies, pictured below.
Les Requins Marteaux’s anchovies, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Empanada, Au Bon Goût Latino
I was walking around Chartrons, searching for plates to eat that I hadn’t tried before. I stumbled upon Au Bon Goût Latino, a food truck located behind the “Place Paul Doumer” tram stop. I was excited and curious. I enjoy food trucks and have a particular fondness for Latin American cuisine, so I stopped by to give it a try.
The USA has many food trucks, and I can tell you that some have a more overall appealing vibe than others. From the start, I could tell that Au Bon Goût Latino was a quality food truck akin to those found on the North Shore of Hawaii. It was well-designed, open, and clean.
Au Bon Goût Latino specializes in Peruvian empanadas and arepas, among other offerings. Empanadas are golden-brown Latin American pastries filled with seasoned beef, chicken, pork, and other ingredients- think portable American pot pies. In the Au Bon Goût Latino case, they also feature spinach, tuna, and lasagna.
That’s right—Au Bon Goût Latino makes empanadas filled with classic lasagna, which includes spicy minced meat, mixed with ham, pasta, and tomato, and béchamel sauce, as shown in the picture below.
Au Bon Goût Latino “Lasagna Empanada,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I have tried many empanadas in the past, but have often been disappointed. Generally, the pastry-to-filling ratio is unbalanced, resulting in an insufficient amount of filling. However, that is not the case with Au Bon Goût Latino’s empanadas, which are generously filled, resulting in a perfect balance between the dough and filling. They are delicious.
I had to try their lasagna empanada (pictured below) because it was a novel and creative concept. I took home Au Bon Goût Latino’s Chicken Aji Empanada. This Peruvian classic is filled with shredded chicken simmered in a creamy ají amarillo (a non-spicy sauce), walnuts, bread, and spices, and comes with a garlic-and-cilantro sauce on the side. I plated it at home, as shown in the picture below. It was delicious, and the sauce was excellent, satisfying my craving for flavors beyond French.
Au Bon Goût Latino “Chicken Aji Empanada,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Finally, the staff operating the truck are lovely, friendly, and accommodating, which creates a perfect experience. So, if you are walking around Chartrons, seek out Au Bon Goût Latino and buy an empanada, an arepa, or a few to try. You will be glad that you did.
UPDATE: I found Au Bon Goût Latino behind the Chartrons Place Paul Doumer tram stop, but they are not there very often. Most of the time, you can find them at the corner of Cr de la Martinique and Quai des Chartrons, 33000 Bordeaux. It is located just across the street in the Garonne River Run area.
Who doesn’t love cake? La Maison de Blanche makes the best chiffon cakes I have ever tasted, even better than those I made in pastry school. Each is perfect for eating alone or for sharing, as pictured below.
La Maison de Blanche’s “Sunflower,” Chartrons, Bordeaux.
I found the “Sunflower” particularly noteworthy, as I have learned to make my own version in pastry school. However, my genoise wasn’t as light and airy as I’d hoped. When I inquired about their secret, I was told it relates to the ratio of whipped egg whites to egg yolks and the oven temperature, but the specific details were not shared. La Maison de Blanche also offers crowd-pleasers like “Snickers” and “Tiramisu,” among others.
La Maison de Blanche also makes ” Mon cœur.” Mon cœur literally means “my heart,” in French, an affectionate term to use with a loved one. In the “pastry world,” it is a cold pastry shaped like a heart. La Maison de Blanche also makes an excellent “Mon coeur.”
La Maison de Blanche’s “Mon Cœur,” Chartrons, Bordeaux.
La Maison de Blanche features a counter and offers tables, allowing you to enjoy your cake on-site with a beverage or take it to go.
La Maison de Blanche Address: 37 Rue Camille Godard, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 07 69 56 55 92 https://lamaisondeblanche.com/
Chicken Ceaser Salad, Molly Malones
Molly Malone’s features tables both inside and out, offering attentive, efficient service and well-portioned food. I often order the “Fish and Chips,” while my wife usually chooses the “Chicken Caesar Salad,” which, in my opinion, is the best Caesar salad we have found in France (and we have been in France for over a year and traveled all over), see the picture below.
Molly Malone’s “Chicken Caesar Salad,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I’m not saying it’s gourmet, but I would describe it as a classic American Caesar salad—if that’s even a thing. Molly’s offers more than just Caesar salad. I’ve also tried the fish and chips and the steak with fries; both were just as they should be. I plan to sample more dishes for lunch soon.
Another good option is Molly’s “Chicken Wrap,” as shown below. It resembles a Caesar salad but is served in a slightly toasted wrap and accompanied by fries.
Chez Dupont, a typical French Bistro, is located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, and is just 20 meters to the left of my front door. They have an indoor area and a sidewalk that, on a good day, allow you to enjoy the vibe of Chartons.
Chez Dupont, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For our starter, we shared the “Grilled Artichoke Flower,” which featured a grilled artichoke served with Iberian ham and shavings of fresh duck foie gras, all accompanied by a duck jus reduced with old wine vinegar, as shown in the picture below. I really enjoyed it and found it to be a creative dish that I would recreate and serve to guests at my home.
Chez Dupont “Grilled Artichoke Flower,” a grilled artichoke adorned by Iberian ham and shavings of fresh duck foie gras, served with duck jus reduced in old wine vinegar, Chartrons, Bordeaux
For my main course, I chose the “Auros Fat Duck Trilogy,” featuring fattened duck from the PALMAGRI cooperative, served in three ways: a duck chop, a skewer of aiguillettes, and pan-fried foie gras (see the picture below). Again, I enjoyed it and found it to be a creative dish that I would recreate and serve to my guests at home.
Chez Dupont’s “Auros Fat Duck Trilogy,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
My wife selected the Chicken Caesar salad, which was not “dressed to impress” and underwhelmed. See the picture below. In my opinion, Molly Malone’s, Bistrot Maurice, or La Tradizione, all outlined in this post, all make a better Chicken Ceaser Salad.
Chez Dupont’s Chicken Caesar Salad, Chartrons Bordeaux
Chez Dupont is a classic French bistro. The ambiance was an “ok” vibe since we had to sit on the “overflow” seats on the corner. Service can be inconsistent, at least in our case. Wine-by-the-glass choices are average. Presentation and plating were fun, and I enjoyed the starter and the lamb dish. The Chicken Caesar salad was subpar, in our opinion (Pictured above).
I live less than a block away from Chez Dupont, and I can confirm that it is always crowded, especially on beautiful days, and everyone seems to be having a great time. So if you live in the Chartrons neighborhood or are planning to visit, it may be worth stopping by to sit outside, share a starter, sip on a glass of wine, and watch the people passing by.
However, if you plan to visit, I suggest making a reservation on their website. If you would like to be seated on the terrace, indicate this in your reservation or send a separate message to the restaurant.
Additionally, I would suggest that you specify you would like to sit “under the big awning of the restaurant itself,” rather than at the “flimsy” table and chairs they place in the exposed corner across the street to handle overflow.
Restaurant rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
Delights of Damascus is a Syrian-owned, family-run business in Chartrons. We visited and had many dishes, but the Delights of Damascus “Falafel Tacos were the highlight. The Falafels are huge. It’s a plate you can share.
Delights of Damascus, “Tacos Falafels,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
My favorite restaurant in the Bordeaux city center that celebrates the flavors and spices of the Middle East is “Kedem .”Check out my post titled “Best Restaurants in Bordeaux.” My favorite falafels in Chartonns can be found at CASA GAÏA, listed here.
Moelleuses et Persillées is a steakhouse in Chartrons that makes the best burger I have found in Chartrons or Bordeaux, for that matter.
They call it the “M&P Burger.” It features a homemade sweet potato bun made with beef fat instead of butter. The patty is made with aged beef and is topped with raclette cheese, homemade sauce, romaine lettuce, tomato, fresh onions, and guanciale. Fries are served on the side.
Moelleuses et Persillees’ “M&P Burger,” homemade beef fat and sweet potato bun, aged beef patty, guanciale (pork), raclette cheese, romaine lettuce, tomato, fresh onions, homemade sauce, served with fries, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
The burger is excellent, with a rich, creamy taste and mouthfeel. It pairs well with a glass of Bordeaux wine. Sometimes, Moelleuses et Persillées swaps the beef patty for shredded beef marinated in their homemade barbecue sauce. I like the sauce and ask for it on the side, even with the regular patty.
Colette Burgers “Colette” is my second favorite burger in Chartrons.
The “Colette” is served on a soft potato bun with Aubrac beef steak, grilled bacon, mature cheddar, raclette cheese, candied tomatoes, onion confit, pickles, lamb’s lettuce, and Collette cocktail sauce.
The “Colette” hamburger, Colette’s Burgers, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The burger strikes a good balance of sugar, salt, and fat. The Aubrac beef steak is well seasoned and very tender, with a rich flavor that melts in your mouth. Paired with the sweet onion confit, candied tomatoes, and Colette’s cocktail sauce, it all comes together for an excellent burger.
Colette’s Burgers originated in Bordeaux, where it now has three locations, and has since expanded throughout France. They offer seating, beer, and wine, and options for chicken sandwiches and salads.
PNY Chartrons is my third favorite burger in Chartrons.
PNY originated in Paris and is inspired by New York hamburgers, which is how it got its name, Paris New York (PNY). It also serves fast food appetizers, such as corn dogs, onion rings, and jalapeno poppers, as well as sides like loaded fries. It feels like an American hamburger joint lost in France. They offer seating, beer, and wine, and options for chicken sandwiches and salads.
PNY offers a variety of burgers. I tried the “GOLDEN STATE OF MIND,” flame-grilled PNY minced steak, old-fashioned melted cheddar, iceberg lettuce, beefsteak tomato, pepper sauce, and wholegrain mustard.
PNY’s “GOLDEN STATE OF MIND,” hamburger, Chartrons, Bordeaux
PNY claims that its bun recipe comes from the founders’ grandmother in Ohio and that it hand-cuts its fries to ensure freshness.
Look inside PNY’s “GOLDEN-STATE OF MIND,” hamburger, Chartrons, Bordeaux
I must say that PNY’s bun was perfect, and the burger was delicious. My understanding is that PNY burgers are flame-grilled at 650°C and come with a “secret sauce” that is a bit spicy.
PNY is very busy, so it’s a good idea to make a reservation online if you plan to visit. We tried walking in last weekend, but we were turned away because they couldn’t accommodate any more tables or orders.
Finally, if you are not French but want to look French while enjoying your hamburger, remember to eat it with a knife and fork, as the French do; otherwise, everyone will know you are a tourist.
PAB Bordeaux serves the best Italian sandwiches, known as Panuozzo, in Chartrons, Bordeaux. They just opened about the time we arrive in Chartrons.
A Panuozzo is an Italian sandwich made with pizza bread, stuffed with meat and vegetables. It was invented in 1983 by the pizzaiolo Giuseppe Mascolo, from the comune of Gragnano, near Naples, Italy, and was first adopted in the region of the Monti Lattari.
PAB Bordeaux is owned and operated by Leo. The sandwich shop is small, with just a few tables, and offers beer and wine; most people take their sandwiches to go. Leo outsources the pizza bread, made with type 00 flour, ensuring a delicate, light crust that remains soft and chewy on the inside. All the meats are imported from Italy.
PAB offers several different sandwiches, and I have tried the PAB and the PAPI. The PAB is filled with herb ham, Fior di Latte mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, and rocket. “Fior di latte” is an Italian term meaning “flower of milk.” In Italian cuisine, it refers explicitly to a fresh mozzarella cheese made from cow’s milk.
PAB Bordeaux’s “PAB,” a sandwich with herb ham, Fior di Latte mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, and rocket.
The PABI is filled with Mortadella, fior di latte mozzarella, homemade pistachio pesto, cherry tomatoes, and rocket. Both were excellent.
Another, but very different Italian sandwich option is the “Pannozo Deli Mama” sandwich from Dolomite Pizza in Chartrons. This sandwich features jambon blanc with truffle, basil pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, arugula, and a creamy Gorgonzola sauce, all packed into crispy focaccia bread. See the picture below. I enjoyed it a lot, but my wife did not due to the gorgonzola sauce. I would prepare it at home with a Parmesan cheese sauce to appeal to a broader audience.
Le Chartronnais is a French bar for locals that opens as a bar, transforms into a “Bistro” at lunchtime, and then back into a bar. The owner told me that”Le Chartronnais” has been around for 100 years and that a 95-year-old man born above the bar still visits.
Le Chartronnais, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Le Chartronnais is open Monday to Friday from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. If you stop by at 7:30 in the morning, you’ll see people already having drinks. By lunchtime, the place turns into a bistro packed with locals, offering a menu of various options at very fair prices, prepared by a competent chef, with decent wine by the glass.
Le Chartronnais, “Eggs Mayo,” Chartrons, Bordeaux.Le Chartronnais’ “Sirloin Steak” with shallots, small salad, and fries, Chartrons, Bordeaux.Le Chartronnais’ “French Toast,” Chartrons, Bordeaux.
The food is simple French fare and tastes as it should. The eggs, steak, and all were good, but the French toast was well-made with vanilla and cinnamon, served with vanilla ice cream, Chantilly cream, and creme anglaise and toasted almonds—a fine meal for under 20 euros.
I like “Le Chartronnais,” it is like Cheers, “Where Everybody Knows Your Name.” I have not found another place like it in Chartrons.
Not many tourists visit, so if you go, be respectful, consider your impact, and follow the rules, such as being served on their schedule. Do not be surprised if you feel welcomed but a bit out of place.
There aren’t many bars in France that serve good food (more common in the U.S.A.). Le Chartronnais is the exception and as such is highly rated as a BAR.
Bar rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 5
Pickles is one block from where I live, so we went there twice this week to eat. Once for dinner and once for lunch. For dinner, we sat inside; for lunch, we sat outside.
The ambiance and vibe are okay, and the staff are very friendly. But the service is sloppy, detracting from the experience. But no one seems to notice. Pickles is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner (a clear plus), and it always seems crowded.
Pickles’ wine-by-the-glass list is generous, featuring four whites, four reds, a rosé, a sparkling wine, and a sweet wine. The prices are fair. They also offer beer and an excellent selection of cocktails. I ordered a Negroni this week, which was well-made and reminiscent of those I had in Florence.
The menu is small, but the “yummy quotient” is high (see my post, “5 Point Restaurant Rating System“). The dishes are well-presented and plated. Between the two visits, we essentially tried all the menu items. Below is a picture of the “Pan-fried Mussels with Thai Coconut and Coriander Sauce” I had for lunch today.
Pickles’ “Pan-fried Mussels with Thai Coconut and Coriander Sauce,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pickles is open every day, which is a real plus. It is definitely worth a visit, but it’s essential to set your expectations for the service (at least based on my experience this week). Its menu is made to share. You can start with small plates, then move on to the fish or steak platters. The desserts are fine. However, if you plan to visit during peak hours, I advise making a reservation online.
Restaurant rated:
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
CASA GAÏA is just to the right of my front door. I can see it from my living room window. For a long time, I avoided it because it advertises itself as “organic,” which, in my experience, often means the food doesn’t taste as good. But after running out of new places to try in Chartrons, I finally gave it a shot. I’m happy I did. The food was delicious—one of the best restaurant experiences I’ve had in Chartrons. Here’s what I ordered:
Casa Gaïa’s “Ratafia de Malbec,” wine-based aperitif, Chartrons. BordeauxCasa Gaia’s “Jerusalem artichoke soup,” fennel and grilled chorizo, fresh herbs, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Casa Gaïa’s “Piece of Veal” was perfectly prepared, and the polenta fries were crispy, which is hard to get right. It was delicious.
Casa Gaïa’s “Piece of Veal,” from “The Farm of the Domaine des Faures,” grilled vegetables, white wine, mustard sauce, and pickles, Chartrons, Bordeaux
I called my wife, she came over, and ordered the “Bowl de la Casa.” The Falafel was excellent. Better than “Délices de Damas,” I mentioned above.
Casa Gaïa’s “Bowl de la Casa,” falafels, green salad, spiced quinoa, “Gaia sauce” and fresh herbs, pickles, roasted hazelnuts, grilled vegetables, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Casa Gaïa’s “Pumpkin Tart” was a terrific modern interpretation of classic pumpkin pie. It was very healthy and not too sweet.
CASA GAÏA has a great atmosphere and a fun vibe, and the service is excellent. The wine-by-the-glass choices are better than most. Presentation is simple and has a bistro feel. The food is delicious, and the desserts are also a step above. I highly recommend CASA GAÏA.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Bonvivant365 score: 21
CASA GAÏA Address: 16 bis Rue Latour, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: 05 56 52 87 21 https://www.casagaia.fr/
Japanese Ramen, FUFU
FUFU Cours Portal is a traditional Japanese ramen bar that serves authentic Japanese dishes, including ramen—bowls of broth with homemade noodles—as well as fried pork cutlets, fried shrimp, and side dishes like stir-fried vegetables, and gyoza, dumplings filled with pork and vegetables and wrapped in a thin dough, see the pictures below.
FUFU’s “Gyoza,” a dumpling filled with pork and vegetables and wrapped in a thin dough
It is located in Chartrons and is just two blocks from our Airbnb, so we visit it frequently. We always sit at the counter. The restaurant is owned and operated by a first-generation Cambodian couple and their two children, who were born in France.
The atmosphere is friendly and neighborly, reminiscent of a quaint noodle bar in Sendai, Japan (my wife’s mother was from Sendai). Fufu Cours Portal has become our go-to restaurant for Japanese ramen in Bordeaux.
We like to start with an order of Gyoza, also known as pot stickers, pictured above. These originated in China, where they are called “jiaozi,” but have become a popular dish in Japan.
FUFU “Ramen,” a bowl of homemade broth with noodles, bamboo shoots, soy, egg, seaweed, and marinated confit pork, Chartrons, Bordeaux
We also like and order the FUFU’s “Yasai Itame,” a small plate of spicy wok-fried vegetables, pictured below.
FUFU “Yasai Itame,” a small plate of spicy wok-fried vegetables, Chartrons, Bordeaux
FUFU can be a bit salty but still good. We have tried many other dishes, such as:
FUFU’s “Yakisoba,” wok-fried noodles with pork, Chartrons-BordeauxFUFU’s “Hiyashi Chuka,” noodle salad accompanied by tomato, cucumber, soy, egg, seaweed, and marinated chicken. Chartrons, BordeauxFUFU’s “Donburi Tonkatsu,” a bowl of rice with a breaded pork cutlet, Chartrons-Bordeaux
There are several FUFU locations across France. We have also visited the FUFU in Toulouse and Lyon. In Bordeaux, there are two locations: one near us in Chartons and the other in the city center.
The downtown location is more traditional, with a counter in front of the cooks that resembles a “chef’s table.” The FUFU Course Portal also has a counter; however, the kitchen is located to the left and is visible through glass, allowing you to observe the cooking process from a distance.
La Tradizione’s lasagna is my favorite lasagna on Chartrons.
La Tradizione is a casual Italian restaurant featuring traditional decor, specializing in Neapolitan-style pizzas and pasta dishes, and their “Lasagna” is simply perfect. It is the kind of lasagna I love: cooked to perfection with meat, bechamel, and mozzarella, and generously covered in sauce, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux
We began our meal with Bruschetta and a mixed dish of fried calamari and shrimp, both of which I thought were excellent. My wife ordered the chicken Caesar salad, which was terrific and rivaled the one Molly mentioned earlier (see picture above).
While many dishes impressed me, the lasagna truly stole the show; it was the best I have had in France over the past year. In Chartrons, I have sampled lasagna at two other restaurants, but La Tradizione stands out as the best.
As I looked around, everyone was ordering the pizza. It also looked perfect. We plan to try La Tradizione’s pizza next. I will advise as soon as possible.
La Tradizione Address: 6 Pl. Paul et Jean Paul Avisseau, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 05 33 05 16 87
Cosi Si Mangia
Cosi Si Mangia is my second-favorite lasagna in Chartrons.
Cosi Si Mangia, an Italian deli (takeaway only) located in the Chatrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, is conveniently close to my home. The deli features a small counter offering a variety of prepared foods. It is situated right next to the wine shop that I visit regularly, which has always piqued my interest in trying their lasagna.
Today, I purchased the last piece. I brought it home and plated it, see image below. It was made traditionally and was good, but I would have preferred a bit more sauce.
Cosi Si Mangia’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
Cosi Si Mangia Address: 30 Cr Portal, 33000 Bordeaux
Marcellino
Marcellino’s lasagna is delicious, but I prefer La Tradizione’s version because it is generously covered in a tomato-based sauce. I would describe La Tradizione’s lasagna as more of an “American lasagna,” with more sauce and cheese than a traditional Italian version.
In contrast, Marcellino’s lasagna is likely more authentically Italian, with less sauce overall. If you prefer lasagna with less sauce, Marcellino’s might be a better choice. However, if you enjoy Marcellino’s lasagna but would like more sauce, you can always request extra on the side.
It is French-style and emphasizes béchamel sauce, unlike La Tradizione’s lasagna. If you prefer French lasagna, then LasagnA is the better choice.
LasagnA’s lasagna, Chartrons, Bordeaux
LasagnA offers various lasagna options at a fair price, each served with a side salad. These include vegetarian, salmon, chicken, and bolognese, among others. They also have a location in the Bordeaux center.
Macaroni and cheese is the definition of comfort food, and Moelleuses et Persillées make the best I have found in Chartrons.
Macaroni and cheese, Moelleuses et Persillées
Moelleuses et Persillées make two kinds of Macaroni and cheese, using Cavatappi pasta: “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola cheese and black truffle,” and “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola.” Both are downright decadent and great with a steak or as a takeaway snack at home.
Moelleuses et Persillees’ “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola cheese and black truffle,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Leftover Moelleuses et Persillées’ macaroni and cheese that I took home and is plated to show the Cavatappi pasta that is cooked perfectly al dente.
Moelleuses et Persillees’ “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola cheese and black truffle,” plated, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Cavatappi comes from southern Italy and is named after the Italian word for “corkscrew.” Cavatappi is a hollow, spiral-shaped pasta measuring about 1 inch long. Itin length, and sometimes features ridges or grooves on its surface. The famous pasta brand Barilla calls this shape Cellentani in honor of the famous Italian singer Celentano from the 1960s
Mediterranean, Oriental, Asian, Papouch
Papouch is located in the heart of Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. We went to Papouch because we pass it every day on our way to wine school, it has an interesting menu, and it scores high on Google.
Papouch, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Papouch defines itself as a “restaurant” and describes itself as follows: “At Papouch, we delve into the vibrant flavors of the Mediterranean, as well as those from oriental and more broadly Asian cuisines,” which depends on the season and their access to fresh, local ingredients.
The ambiance and vibe were “hip,” while the service was functionally polite, most of the time. The wine-by-the-glass options were suitable. To accompany my meal, I was recommended the “G de Château Guiraud 2023.” It was an ok pairing, but I would have looked for something a little sweeter to accompany the food. For dessert, I was recommended the “Château Saint Roch Lirac Confidentielle,” a red wine whose dark, stewed fruit notes, such as plum, blackcurrant, and strawberry, were a fair pairing with the chocolate dessert.
We began our meal with the “Papouch hot pot,” a small bowl of spicy kimchi soup, which was the best I have ever had, see the picture below.
Papouch’s “Hot pot,” a small bowl of spicy kimchi soup, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Next, we ordered the “Battered Potatoes,” mushroom duxelles with doenjang, and a Basque tomme cream, accompanied by pickles (see the picture below). The potatoes were fun and tasty, what I would characterize as “gourmand street food.” I particularly appreciated the use of the Basque tomme cheese, which originates from the Atlantic Pyrenees and is made from rare ewe’s milk.
Papouch’s “Battered potatoes,” served with mushroom duxelles with doenjang, and Basque tomme cream and pickles, Chartrons, Bordeaux
My wife ordered the Bento box as her main course, which was the “special of the day.” It was served with miso soup, which met our expectations. At the same time, the Bento box was decent, but a bit salty, to our liking.
Papouch’s “Bento-box,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I ordered the “Korean fried chicken,” again, gourmand street food, which was spicy, sweet, and sour. It was as expected, see the picture below. We couldn’t eat it all, so we took it home. My wife had the balance for dinner, which she thoroughly enjoyed.
For dessert, we ordered the “Matchoco,” a chocolate fondant with a matcha tea molten center, accompanied by a hazelnut biscuit and green tea ice cream (see picture below).
Papouch’s “Matchoco,” dessert served with a chocolate fondant with a matcha tea molten center, accompanied by a hazelnut biscuit and green tea ice cream, Chartrons, Bordeaux
We found Papouch to be just “okay.” There are many other places listed here that we would prefer to spend our time and money rather than Papouch.
That said, Papouch offers a different kind of cuisine, and it was bustling with people enjoying lunch and having a good time. So, if you find yourself in the Chartrons neighborhood, try Papouch; you might enjoy it, as many others do.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Toto lé’ in Chartrons specializes in Réunionnais cuisine. You might be wondering, “What is Réunionnais cuisine?” I was curious about it too when I first passed by Toto lé’ and did a double-take, thinking the restaurant had misspelled “Rouennaise.”
When I got home, I looked up Réunionnais cuisine. I learned that it is the cuisine of the island of Réunion, a French department in the Indian Ocean, and that it is essentially creole cuisine. I was amazed and felt I had to try this place and its unique cuisine.
So, I decided to visit today and ordered a dish to go. I asked Anthony, the owner, which dish was his most popular. He told me it was “Rougai Saucisses.” Anthony filled a to-go box with a generous amount of rice and the “Rougai Saucisses.” I took it home and plated it, see picture below. It was excellent.
Toto Lé’s “Rougai Saucisses,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Toto lé’ is fun to try. It has a few tables inside where you can sit and eat, but it is mainly a takeaway shop.
Marché des Quais, also known as the Sunday Guay Market, takes place every week along the Quays of Chartrons. It starts at the corner of Rue Latore and Quai des Chartrons, across the street in the Garonne River Run area, and stretches north for several blocks. You’ll find more than 70 stalls with local producers, food vendors, prepared meals, food trucks, and oyster farmers.
Oysters
There is nothing more French than going to a market and eating oysters, often with a glass of wine or Champagne. Bordeaux is just an hour from Arcachon Bay, one of France’s top oyster farming regions, so the oysters in Bordeaux are fresh, as seen in the picture below.
Marché des Quais’ fresh oysters, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and take part in this long-standing tradition.
At the market, oysters are served with lemon, butter, and bread, but not with mignonette. When I inquired about this, they explained, “We eat them naturally.” The butter adds creaminess, while the bread absorbs some of the salty brine, making the dish more substantial than eating oysters alone.
The oysters are served shucked, meaning they are opened with the top shell placed back on like a lid. To eat them, first remove the top shell. Inside, you will find the oyster meat still attached to the bottom shell, along with a liquid that looks like water. This liquid is known as “oyster liquor,” which is a combination of seawater and the oyster’s own juices.
The protocol is to eat, using the small fork provided to detach the oyster from its shell without spilling any of the “oyster liquor.” Then, lift the oyster edge to your lower lip, raise the shell, and allow the “oyster liquor” to slide into your mouth. Swallow.. If you’re unsure about the process, discreetly observe your neighbor for guidance, and you’ll quickly get the hang of it.
Chartron’s “Sunday Guay Market” is a great place to channel your “inner French oyster eater” and participate in this long-held French tradition. However, if you can’t make it to the Sunday market, “La Cabane Cent Un” in Chartrons is the next best place to enjoy Arcachon Bay oysters. See the picture below.
La Cabane Cent Un oysters, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pasta, PIPO
The Chartrons neighborhood offers many places to enjoy pasta. Although I haven’t tried all, I recently visited PIPO, a small, authentic Italian restaurant located on the “Quai des Chartrons.”
The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating for pleasant weather. They offer a well-executed and straightforward set menu at a reasonable price. The vegetable starters were excellent, and the pasta was cooked perfectly.
PIPO’s “Rigatoni Fresca” is served with a veal ragu infused with orange.
The service is friendly and prompt. It can get quite busy, so be sure to make a reservation if you plan to go.
Pâté en croûte can be pretty tedious to eat, which is why I enjoy it made with chorizo—it keeps things interesting. I learned how to prepare it during my time at culinary school. The manager of Bistro Marucie shared his favorite spot to buy pâté en croûte with spicy sausage at the Marché des Quais, a small stand called “Pâté de Maison” that specializes in this dish. I brought a slice home and plated it. It was excellent, and the chrizo kept me interested.
Chorizo pâté en croûte, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pizza, Monzù Chartrons
There are many places to find pizza in the Chartrons neighborhood. I have tried many, but not all. This is what I think.
Monzù Chartrons
My favorite pizza is Neapolitan. I judge pizza by the ingredients used and its dough-to-sauce-to-cheese ratio. PLUS the pizza dough should have a thin base, a reasonably thick crust, and be crispy on the outside, light and airy inside, and chewy and slightly moist in the center.
Based on this criterion, Monzù Chartrons receives the “Bonvivants365 Gold Medal” for the best pizza in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood.
Monzu’s “Margherita” pizza, Chartrons, Bordeaux.
Tripletta Chartrons
Tripletta Chartrons receives “Bonvivant365’s Silver Medal” for the best pizza in Chartrons, Bordeaux, which is made in a very similar way to La Tradizione’s pizza, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione pizza receives the “Bonvivants365 Bronze Medal” for the best pizza in Bordeaux’s Chartrons neighborhood. The pizza is typical Neapolitan pizza, our favorite.
Neapolitan pizza is a traditional round pizza originating in Naples, Italy. It is characterized by its soft, thin dough with raised edges, as shown in the picture below.
La Tradizione’s “Margherita Pizza,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
What makes La Tradizione’s pizza particularly special is that all its ingredients are sourced from Italy. They use San Marzano PDO tomatoes for their sauce, along with Campanian mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, and fresh basil.
San Marzano tomatoes (Italian: pomodori pelati, meaning “peeled tomatoes”) are cultivated in a specific region around Naples. To be certified as San Marzano with Protected Designation of Origin (DOP), these tomatoes must be grown in the Sarnese-Nocerino region, located outside Naples and benefiting from volcanic soil from Mt. Vesuvius. It’s important to note that the DOP designation applies only to canned tomatoes, not fresh ones. San Marzano tomatoes are sweet, low in acidity, and rich in umami flavor, a characteristic attributed to the volcanic soil of Mt. Vesuvius. I buy these tomatoes regularly to make my homemade tomato sauce.
It’s important to note that Neapolitan pizza should have some moisture in the center. To someone who has never tried this type of pizza before, it may seem soggy. This moisture primarily comes from the use of fresh mozzarella, which is naturally high in water content. You will need to eat with a knife and fork.
If you plan to visit La Tradizione, I recommend making a reservation through their website, as the restaurant is typically crowded.
Pizzeria Mirabella
Pizzeria Mirabel is the fourth runner-up for best pizza in Chartrons. I evaluate pizza based on three key elements: crust, sauce, and cheese, along with their respective ratios. My benchmark is Neapolitan pizza from Naples, as mentioned above, which is known for its soft, thin dough with high edges and a perfect sauce-to-cheese ratio.
Note: If you plan to visit Pizzeria Mirabella, I recommend making a reservation in advance. The place is cozy but tiny—otherwise, takeaway.
Pizzeria Mirabella’s Margherita pizza with soppressata, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Other pizzas tried in Chartrons:
Papà Lello’s was overall disappointing for my taste.
Pizza Coasy’s pizza was acceptable, but it lacked sauce, and the crust was too thick for me.
Litalia Chartrons’ cheese-to-sauce ratio was too high for my liking; there was too much cheese relative to the sauce.
Pepitom’s Pizza Club pizza, which I tried at Les Halles Bacalan, lacked flavor, in my opinion.
Carefour Pizza “Hack”
If you want cheap, tasty pizza at home, try “CARREFOUR CLASSIC’s Chorizo Pizza.” I am not saying it is “amazing,” but in a pinch, it can hit the spot.
Carrefour’s “Chorizo pizza, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Pinsa, La Bocca
There are several Italian delis and restaurants in Chartrons. La Bocca is one of them. During our time in Chartrons, we walk past it almost every day. Last week, on our way back from lunch, we stopped into the deli to look around and to have a cup of coffee. La Bocca’s deli is small, littered with Italian delicacies, with a small menu and a few tables to rest your feet, have a small bite to eat, and a coffee or glass of wine.
La Bocca, “Pinsa,” with spicy Italian salami, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Looking at the small deli menu, we saw that La Bocca offered a “Pinsa,” also known as Pinsa Romana, a hand-pressed bread with an ancient recipe dating back over 2,000 years. It was initially baked by the rural population living outside ancient Rome, typically made in an oblong shape rather than a round one. Today, Pinsa is regarded as a healthier alternative to pizza because of the way the dough is made.
La Bocca describes their Pinsa as “a crispy and soft dough that falls somewhere between a pizza and focaccia, topped with tomato sauce, cherry tomatoes, and mozzarella.” An interesting feature is that you can order either a half or a full Pinsa. Since we had already eaten lunch, we decided to order half a Pinsa with sausage and a glass of red wine.
La Bocca’s Pinsa was both enjoyable and delicious. During our visit, an older couple who seemed to be exploring the Chartrons district stopped by to rest their feet and have a small bite to eat. La Bocca is the perfect place for a break while exploring the Chartrons District of Bordeaux.
La Pointe is a seafood bistro situated in the heart of the Chartrons district. It is conveniently located near our Airbnb, so we pass by it almost daily. However, for some reason, it never caught my attention until several French locals recommended it to me. I decided to give it a try, and I’m glad we did. In many ways, it stands out for its focus on fish; it is one of the best fish restaurants I have visited in a long time.
La Pointe, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The ambiance and vibe are fun, and the service is excellent. They speak French and English well, and every seat faces the kitchen or the bar. La Pointe was full of French people there for the fish.
For starters, I ordered six “Special oysters from the Banc d’Arguin, La Déguste, Lionel Nadeau,” along with a “Sausage in white wine,” as the waiter mentioned: “In France, we always serve sausage with oysters,” we paired it and the fish dishes that followed with La Pointe’s house while Bordeaux wine, a dry white whine, I believe mainly produced from Sémillon grapes and blended with Sauvignon Blanc.
La-Pointe’s “Special oysters from the Banc d’Arguin, La Déguste, Lionel Nadeau,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I’ve enjoyed oysters all over France, from the south to the north, and I’ve never encountered this pairing before. Typically, I have them with butter and bread, but never with white sausage. Nevertheless, if someone suggests that I try a sausage, I’m not going to refuse, so I went ahead and ordered one (I thought “When in Rome”).
La-Pointe’s “Sausage in white wine,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
I was still very curious, and after consulting Google, I learned that oysters and sausages are generally not paired, as I had suspected. However, in Bordeaux, it is common to serve oysters with sausages, especially during the Christmas tradition known as “Lou-Ken-Kas.” I enjoyed the pairing. It was fun.
While deciding on our main course, we noticed the kitchen preparing “Sweet and Sour Korean-Style Fried Calamari.” I’m always eager to try fried calamari, so after checking with our waiter and learning it was one of their most popular dishes, we placed an order. The dish was both enjoyable and delicious, and we had plenty left over to take home, which made an excellent snack for our Netflix-and-chill afternoon.
La Pointe’s “Sweet and Sour Korean-Style Fried Calamari,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
For my main course, I ordered the “Fish of the Day,” which came with yellow carrot mousseline, braised carmine mushrooms, and orange beurre blanc. My wife chose the “Sea Bream Ceviche,” accompanied by red meat radish, pomegranate, avocado cream, and new potatoes.
La Pointe’s “Sea Bream Ceviche,” accompanied by red meat radish, pomegranate, avocado cream, and new potatoes
For dessert, we shared the coffee tiramisu with amaretto, which we paired with their “La Peyrat XO Cognac.”
La Pointe’s coffee tiramisu with amaretto, Chartrons, Bordeaux
As I mentioned earlier, the ambiance and vibe are enjoyable, and the service is excellent. However, we found the wine-by-the-glass options a bit confusing, which made the options difficult to understand.
That said, the house dry white wine paired perfectly with the food. The presentation and plating were thoughtful but average. The dishes were spot-on and yummy. The chef’s tiramisu was exceptional.
There aren’t many restaurants I find myself craving to return to, but La Pointe is one of them. We enjoyed it so much that we made a reservation to bring my wife’s friend from San Francisco when she visits in December.
Ambiance and vibe: 5 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 4
Moelleuses et Persillées is a steakhouse located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, very close to my Airbnb and where we attend wine school. I love steak, and they serve the best in Chartrons. I have dined there twice with my wife.
Moelleuses et Persillées, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Moelleuses et Persillées first visit
We had more time for lunch, which allowed us to visit the restaurant Moelleuses et Persillées, which offers a variety of steak options from around the world, including Kobe from Hyogo, Japan; Wagyu from Australia; Black Angus from Uruguay; Freygaaar from Finland; Dexter from Angleterre, England; and Montbéliarde from France. Moelleuses et Persillées matures its meats on-site. Each breed has a distinct maturation time that varies with factors such as marbling and age at slaughter. Moelleuses et Persillées offers a daily menu and presents a selection of meat cuts tableside for review and choosing.
“Matured Beef Croquettes” from Moelleuses et Persillées, served with a mustard-honey sauce, located in Chartrons, Bordeaux.
Moelleuses et Persillées offers an excellent selection of appetizers. My wife ordered the “Matured Beef Croquettes” with mustard and honey sauce, followed by the “Grilled Baby Lettuce” with chimichurri sauce for her main course; both dishes were outstanding.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ “Grilled Baby Lettuce” topped with chimichurri sauce, located in Chartrons, Bordeaux.
As for me, I decided to order the steak, but my choices were limited since the Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are typically sized and cut for sharing, usually weighing around 700 grams, which was too much for me (even though I planned to take most of it home). However, they did have a 500-gram Dexter steak from Angleterre, England, so I ordered it cooked Bleu, of course. Please see the picture below.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ “Dexter Beef,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
The Dexter breed was developed through the genetic selection of cattle from Ireland, England, Scotland, and Wales. Dexter beef is known for its tenderness and a sweet, slightly nutty flavor. Additionally, this breed often exhibits a unique marbling pattern referred to as “spider” marbling.
Moelleuses et Persillées steaks are served with a three-pepper sauce and accompanied by a salad or fries. Additionally, you can order a side of pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow. My steak was perfectly cooked, the three-pepper sauce was sun-dried, the salad was nicely dressed with a mustard vinaigrette, and the fries were cooked to perfection.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ salad, Chartrons, BordeauxMoelleuses et Persillées’ fries, Chartrons, BordeauxMoelleuses et Persillées’ three-pepper sauce, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Moelleuses et Persillées may be expensive, but it is a steak lover’s paradise. Located in the heart of the Chartrons neighborhood, it offers both indoor and outdoor seating and excellent service.
I plan to return when I have the opportunity for a proper meal, where I can order wine from their extensive by-the-glass list and indulge in dessert. I’m particularly interested in trying the pan-fried foie gras and bone marrow, along with the “Macaroni with Comté and Gorgonzola” sides.
Moelleuses et Persillées second visit
We met a new friend in Bordeaux and wanted to take them to lunch to get to know them better. So, we took him to Moelleuses et Persillées because it is close to the school and is known for its meats, which I wanted to try more of. It turned out to be an epic lunch that lasted just short of four hours.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ cuts of steak, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Looking back at the pictures, I realize we didn’t order a starter. If I had to do it again, I would have tried the “Tempura prawns, crushed roasted avocado, yuzu mayonnaise and coriander,” or the “Pan-seared scallops, served with Jerusalem artichoke purée, sesame dashi, nori flakes and crispy rice, all enhanced with hazelnut oil.” But I am glad we didn’t because in the end we had so much food we both needed doggie bags.
For our main courses, we selected two beef cuts, served one after the other: Supreme Beef from Germany and Santa Rosalia Wagyu from Spain.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ “Supreme Beef,” from Germany, Chartrons, BordeauxMoelleuses et Persillées’ “Wagyu beef,” from Spain, Chartrons, Bordeaux
As accompaniments, we ordered pan-fried foie gras, macaroni with Comté, Gorgonzola, and black truffle, and potato mille-feuille.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ macaroni with Comté, Gorgonzola, and black truffle, Chartrons, Bordeaux
My wife ordered the “M&P Burger,” a homemade beef fat and sweet potato bun, aged pulled beef, raclette cheese, homemade BBQ sauce, pickles, fried onions, and fries.
Instead of dessert, we ordered the cheese plate, featuring Morbier, Tomme de Savoie, Brie, and Ossau Iraty.
Moelleuses et Persillées’ cheese plate, Chartrons, Bordeaux
The house welcomed us each with a glass of champagne. We then ordered a bottle of Château Poujeaux Moulis-en-Médoc 2016, followed by a bottle of Clos Dufourg Margaux 2020, and finally a bottle of Boekenhoutskloof, The Chocolate Block.
It was an epic lunch that lasted close to four hours; a great moment.
Ambiance, vibe, and service: 5 Wine by the glass options: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Dessert and/or cheese plate quality: 4 Yummy quotient: 5
YUMI is a small shusi shop on the Quais De Bordeaux in Chartrons. My wife and I are fortunate that it is near our Wine School (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux“), so we go once a week for lunch.
While YUMI calls itself a restaurant, I would describe it more as an “unadorned café.” There are tables outside, and inside, there’s a back room with tables but no windows. The decor is quite drab. A husband-and-wife team runs it, and the service is friendly and attentive.
The selection of sushi and sashimi included is generally limited to tuna, salmon, white fish, and shrimp, but what is available is exceptional—truly melt-in-your-mouth sushi. The owner informed me that he sources his fish from Scotland.
My wife often orders the lunch set, which includes miso soup and a small side salad of pickled cabbage. I typically order the sashimi platter, which comes with the pickled cabbage salad, and ask to substitute the rice for miso soup; see the picture below.
Le Petit Vietnam is located in the Chartrons neighborhood of Bordeaux, and they also have a to-go place in the Bordeaux-Lac neighborhood. I stopped by on my way home one day to give it a try. I ordered the classic “Phở,” a Vietnamese soup dish made with broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat. It was excellent.
Le Petit Vietnam’s “Phở,” a Vietnamese soup dish consisting of broth, rice noodles, herbs, and meat
Le Petit Vietnam Chartrons Address: 49 Cr de la Martinique, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: 05 54 69 71 41
Tacos, La Copa Rota
Authentic Mexican tacos are hiding in plain sight in Chartron at La Copa Rota.
La Copa Rota is a taco “seakeasy,” meaning it is hard to find, opens and closes at will, and, from what I observed, turns away as many people as it hosts.
La Copa Rota’s chicken tacos, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Don’t misunderstand, these are not the bastardized “French tacos” popularized by Kebab houses across France. These are AUTHENTIC MEXICAN TACOS, full of the flavor and spirit of Mexico, made with passion and to exact specifications by the hostess and her band of merry helpers in a small kitchen fronting a seating area that accommodates 10 or so people.
La Copa Rota taco is far and away the best taco I have ever had in France and maybe in my life. But like I said, La Copa Rota opens when it opens and closes when it closes. The best chance you have to try the most authentic taco, probably in all of France, is to email the address below and see if you can wiggle your way in for a taste.
Le Sobre Chartrons is a wine bar right down the street from my Airbnb. My wife and I visited Le Soubre Chartrons four years ago on our first visit to Bordeaux, and nothing changed. It is still as good a wine bar as we remembered.
Le Sobre Chartrons Charcuterie board, Chartrons, Bordeaux
Le Sobre Chartrons has a welcoming and comfortable atmosphere. When the weather is nice, there are seats available outside on the sidewalk; otherwise, there are plenty of seats and tables inside.
Le Sobre Chartrons, “Tatsuko,” Tataki style marinated beef, Japanese flavors, Chartrons, Bordeaux
At Le Sobre Chartrons, you can order wine by the glass or purchase a bottle. The wine bar also features wine dispenser machines equipped with a card reader, which allow for adjustable portion sizes. You can choose from different serving sizes—taster, half-glass, or full glass—simply by pressing a button.
Inform your server or approach the bar and request to use the wine dispenser machine. They will hand you a card to insert into the wine dispenser machine, then select the desired wine and portion. When you are done tasting wines, hand the card, and they will charge you for what you have drunk.
We have never had dinner at Le Sobre Chartrons, but their small bites and plates are well-appreciated and respected.
Le Sobre Chartrons “Mimosa-Eggs,” Chartrons, Bordeaux
Le Sobre Chartrons regularly updates its wine machine, with at least one excellent wine available by the glass, making frequent visits worthwhile.
Before or after you have a bite to eat in the Chartrons neighborhood, here are some ideas for things to do in Chartrons.
Browse the Village Notre-Dame antique shop
Village Notre-Dame, antique store in Chartrons, Bordeaux
Cut cheese at Fromagerie Beillevaire Bordeaux Les Grands Hommes
Fromagerie Beillevaire Bordeaux Les Grands Hommes is my favorite cheese shop in Chartons. It is a great place to stop by and select a cheese to take home after a day in Chartrons.
Beillevaire Cheese Shop, Chartrons district of Bordeaux
Light a candle: Église Saint-Louis-des-Chartrons de Bordeaux
Saint-Louis Church was constructed between 1874 and 1880 under the designs of Pierre-Charles Brun. It is located in the center of Chartrons, making it unmissable.
Say hello to the oldest continuously operating oven in France
If you have the opportunity, visit Boulangerie “Au Pétrin Moissagais,” which claims to have the oldest continuously operating oven in France (pictured below). The wood-burning oven, pictured below, was built in 1765.
Boulangerie Au Pétrin Moissagais’ oven, Chartrons, Bordeaux
They still make hearty Gasconian bread from South West France, along with many other pastry items, so you can grab one to try or take home.
Boulangerie “Au Pétrin Moissagais” Address: 72 Cr de la Martinique, 33300 Bordeaux Phone: 05 57 87 54 57
Snap a rooftop picture of the Garonne River
Tchanqué Bordeaux’s restaurant and bar offers a rooftop view of Chartrons and the Garonne River. It is a great photo opportunity.
Tchanqué Brodaux offers a rooftop view of Chartrons, the Garonne River, and the Pont Jacques-Chaban-Delmas
In late August 2025, we arrived in Bordeaux to attend the CAFA Wine School as full-time students pursuing a “Diplôme de Conseiller en Vin,” or “Wine Consultant Diploma,” and professional title “Sommelier Advisor,” after traveling in France since April (e.g., see my post “Alsace Wine Region: In a Nutshell“).
Why CAFA Wine School
First and foremost, location, location, location. Bordeaux, France, is one of the premier destinations for studying wine, thanks to its historical significance in viticulture, its renowned wineries, and its proximity to international trade events.
Porte Cailhau, Bordeaux, France
Second, the CAFA Wine School program fits our lifestyle and needs. Its “Wine Consultant Diploma” provides targeted, practical training. This qualification is recognized by the French State and is registered with the RNCP under No. 38134 at Level 5 of the Training Framework.
A “Sommelier Advisor” is responsible for supporting, advising, auditing, and developing a wine offering within hotels, restaurants, wine bars, retail stores, and large-scale distribution. The “CAFA Wine School “Wine Consultant Diploma was the right choice for us since we each already hold advanced degrees.
Third, we received outstanding support throughout the entire application and visa extension process. CAFA staff exceeded our expectations.
As I write this, we are in Larnaca, Cyprus. It is 2:33 AM. We will leave Cyprus at 5:00 AM (I hope my cab driver comes on time) and head back to our Airbnb in Bordeaux, France. Wine school starts on Monday, September 22, 2025.
My wife and I relocated to Bordeaux two weeks ago to settle in and prepare for wine school, which we’ll be attending for the next five months (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). True to my “bonvivant” nature, I identified and tried the best restaurants in Bordeaux, as well as brasseries, bistros, and casual dining places.
Bordeaux’s bronze turtles in the Place de la Victoire, Bordeaux, France
Unlike many food, travel, and review sites that compile opinions from across the internet without ever visiting the locations themselves, my recommendations are based on my own experiences and perspective.
In addition, my wife and I have created our own rating system (see my post, “5-point Restaurant Rating System“) based on the following criteria: ambiance and vibe, wine by the glass options, presentation and plating, yummy quotient, and dessert quality that I use to rate the restaurants, brasseries, and bistros discussed below.
Ok. Let’s go!
Restaurants vs Brasseries vs Bistros
Both brasseries and bistros offer traditional French cuisine, but they differ in atmosphere. Brasseries usually have a larger, more elegant, and open-air setting, a good example is the iconic Le Grand Colbert in Paris. In contrast, bistros tend to be smaller, cozier, and more informal, resembling a neighborhood favorite.
Restaurants, however, are different. While brasseries and bistros specialize in traditional French dishes, establishments labeled as “restaurants” in France feature a much more diverse array of cuisines.
MICHELIN Bib Gourmand Restaurants in Bordeaux, France
If you’ve visited my blog before, you know I’m a fan of MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants. They generally offer a “gastronomic” three-course meal at a fair price that tastes good.
So, the first thing I did when we arrived in Bordeaux was look for MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants. There are four MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Bordeaux itself and one located across the river in the village of Saint-André-de-Cubzac.
We visited each in Bordeaux proper. Below is what we thought of each.
Madame B Restaurant
Madame B restaurant, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, is situated within the Burdigala Hotel. It features a chic brasserie style with a retro flair, accompanied by excellent service. I enjoyed the atmosphere and vibe.
The restaurant provides a selection of classic aperitifs, including champagne and white sparkling wines from the “Crémant de Bordeaux” wine appellation. My wife chose the champagne. Additionally, Madame B offers a wine-by-the-glass (WBT) program featuring a variety of red and white wines at both affordable and mid-range price points.
Madame B’s “Eggs with mushrooms and parsley cream,” Bordeaux, France
For lunch or dinner, guests can choose between 2 to 5 “comfort dishes.” For my starter, I ordered the “Eggs with mushrooms and parsley cream,” while my wife chose the “Cauliflower salad with fennel and vegetable tarama.” Both dishes were well presented and beautifully plated; however, they lacked seasoning, particularly my wife’s dish, which subtracted from their “yummy quotient.”
Madame B’s “Cauliflower salad with fennel and vegetable tarama,” Bordeaux, France
My wife chose the “M’hamsa semolina with herbs, corn, and piquillos” for her main course.
Madame B’s “M’hamsa semolina with herbs, corn, and piquillos, Bordeaux, France
I ordered the “Duck served with white cabbage, lemon, mustard, and a rich sauce.” My wife’s dish was beautifully presented, but it lacked seasoning, which I felt might have been a matter of personal taste. On the other hand, the duck was perfectly prepared and quite delicious.
Madame B’s “Duck served with white cabbage, lemon, mustard, and a rich sauce,” Bordeaux, France
For dessert, we shared the “Vacherin with citrus, tonic, and juniper berry emulsion” and the “Chocolate dessert with peanut, ginger, and vanilla ice cream,” as shown in the picture below. Madame B has its own pastry chef, and it really shows. The desserts were the best we have experienced at any MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in France.
Madame B’s chocolate dessert with peanut, ginger, and vanilla ice cream, Bordeaux, France
Madam B’s second visit
Update: Last night we took a friend to Madame B. The menu, of course, had changed. Once again, the ambiance and vibe were lovely, the wine-by-the-glass options were gracious, including sweet wines; the food was thoughtfully presented and plated; I updated the “yummy quotient” to 4; and the dessert was impeccable. All the MICHELIN Bib Gourmands in Bordeaux are worth trying, but a second visit confirmed that Madame B is the best MICHELIN Bib Gourmand in Bordeaux. Here are a few of the dishes we had:
Kedem, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, features Near and Middle Eastern cuisine, as well as homemade breads (Kaak and Kubane Yehen). All menus begin with a mezze set to share, accompanied by its selection of breads, followed by a main course, with or without dessert.
Kedem’s traditional specialty breads are made on site, Bordeaux, France
Meze with one ‘z’ is more commonly used in Greece, while ‘mezze’ is used in Turkey; however, many people from the Mediterranean region use the words interchangeably. We ordered a starter, main course, and desserts to try everything.
Kadem’s mezza, Bordeaux, France
I ordered the “Babour: Beef kefta with herbs, burnt tomato stew, chickpeas, herb tahini, onion condiment, and sumac.”
Kedem’s “Babour,” beef kefta with herbs, burnt tomato stew, chickpeas, herb tahini, onion condiment, and sumac, Bordeaux, France
My wife ordered the “Daguim: Marinated and semi-cooked albacore tuna, zucchini stuffed with freekeh and herbs, and almond cream.”
For dessert, we ordered and shared the “Basboussa: Semolina cake soaked in orange blossom and lemon, peach poached in rose syrup, strawberry sorbet, cardamom, and hibiscus,” (pictured below) and the “Knafé: Kadaif cake, stringy cheese, hibiscus syrup, whipped cream with halva.”
Kedem’s “Basboussa,” semolina cake soaked in orange blossom and lemon, peach poached in rose syrup, strawberry sorbet, cardamom, and hibiscus, Bordeaux, France
Kedem’s plating is simple, but the dishes are complex with layers of flavors.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 4 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 17
Restaurant Kedem Address: 16 Rue Jean Burguet, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: +33 (0) 5 57 80 04 30 https://kedem.fr/
Racines
Racines, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant, is a small, gastronomic restaurant located down the street from Madame B. It appears to have a following, as evidenced by the greeting given to the arriving patrons.
The menu is small and changes approximately every month. We each ordered a starter, main course, and dessert to try everything. There are two starter options, two main-course options, and two dessert options. So we ordered one of each to try all possibilities.
The menu is limited but updates approximately every month. There are two options for starters, two for main courses, and two for desserts. We decided to order a starter, a main course, and a dessert for each of us to sample everything on offer.
Starters: “Glazed carrot” with miso and peanut, served with satay sauce and passion fruit (pictured below), and “Marinated Squid,” served with shellfish bouillon, grapefruit, and fresh herbs.
Raciens’ “Glazed carrot,” with miso and peanut served with satay sauce and passion fruit, Bordeaux, France
For her main course, my wife selected “The Pollock,” served with fennel and mirabelle plum, pictured below.
Racine’s “The Pollock,” served with fennel and mirabelle plum, Bordeaux, France
I select the “Chicken supreme with mushrooms and seaweed,” served with leeks and roast chicken jus, pictured below. Both were excellent.
Racine’s “Chicken supreme, mushrooms, seaweed,” served with leeks and roast chicken jus, Bordeaux, France
Desserts: “Rhubarb from the Maison Vermes,” served with basil and raspberry, and “The Chocolate by Nicolas Berger,” served with dark berries and shiso, are pictured below.
Raciens’ “The Chocolate by Nicolas Berger,” served with dark berries and shiso, Bordeaux, France
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
Panaille, like Kedem, is an authentic MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant in the sense of value for money. For lunch, an entrée, main course, and dessert are just 23 euros.
Panaille’s ambiance and vibe are those of a lively coffee shop, enhanced by the background music. I felt inclined to pull out my laptop and start writing my blog. The service is friendly, though somewhat hurried, as the staff is quite busy. The only downside to the service was that they didn’t clear away the empty wine glasses or water bottle during our meal, leaving the table cluttered.
Panaille boasts a good wine-by-the-glass menu. They feature four red wines, five white wines, one rosé, a Champagne, and a sparkling wine sourced from Graves, Sud-Ouest (South West), Languedoc, Bourgogne, Entre-deux-Mers, and Champagne regions. As an aperitif, my wife ordered the Couvreur Philippart Champagne Premier Cru, Extra Brute, and for her meal, she ordered the Domaine du Salut, Bordeaux Graves Red 2023.
Panaille’s “Leeks and Quinoa with Ravigote Sauce,” Bordeaux, France
For her starter, my wife ordered the “Leeks and Quinoa with Ravigote Sauce,” pictured above. I chose the “Fried Chicken with Romaine Salad tossed in Sriracha Mayo,” pictured below.
Panaille’s “Fried Chicken with Romaine Salad tossed in Sriracha Mayo,” Bordeaux, France
For her main course, my wife chose the “Pig Cheek served in Tom Kha Kai,” a spicy, sour soup made with coconut milk, white beans, and oyster mushrooms. I ordered the “Plat Du Jour” (French for “Plate of the Day”), featuring slow-cooked lamb served with quinoa and root vegetables, as shown in the picture below.
Panaille’s “Lamb confit” serves with quinoa and root vegetables, Bordeaux, France
In terms of plating and presentation, all the dishes were served in a “bistro” style, in bowls. The lamb was exciting; it looked as if it were lying in a wooded meadow, with leaves fallen around it—an evocative autumnal dish.
In terms of “yummy quotient,” all the dishes were yummy—particularly the starters. The “Pig Cheek served in Tom Kha Kai” was also yummy once we got past the “culinary foam” that had a brownish tint.
For dessert, we shared “Manon’s Cheese Plate,” a selection of Manon’s cheeses, and “Dessert du Jour,” a cheesecake. The cheese was pleasant, and Panaille’s cheesecake interpretation was intriguing. However, similar to the other MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants mentioned earlier—except for Madam B, which has its own pastry chef—the desserts, though appreciated, were very simple.
The only advice I would have is: 1) Don’t sell; serve me sparkling water that I can buy at Carrefour for 0.99 euros. Work with your beverage supplier and carry a sparkling water with a “mysterious” name; 2) Clear the empty glasses and water bottles at least between services.
In the end, Panaille offers tremendous value for money, at least for lunch, and is an authentic MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurant. They frequently change the menu, so it is worth visiting often.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 4 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score 17
Panaille Address: 137 Rue du Tondu, 33000 Bordeaux Phone: +33 (0) 6 60 41 87 39 https://www.panaille.fr/
In summary, all four MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants in Bordeaux are worth visiting. Madame B is my overall favorite, while Kadem and Panaille are excellent options that offer great value for money, especially for lunch. We did not visit Inomoto’s Table because it is located in Saint-André-de-Cubzac, outside of Bordeaux proper. With the time we have left in Bordeaux, I would like to focus on exploring the MICHELIN 1-star restaurants instead.
Bistros in Bordeaux
There are a lot of what I call the “B.S. Bistros of Bordeaux (BBB),” so you need to be careful.
Amicis’ Bistro
Amicis functions as a bistro by day and a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant by night. We didn’t want to go at night (at least not yet), so we tried the brasserie.
Here are my thoughts: Overall, the atmosphere is lively. The wine selection by the glass was just average, so we opted for a bottle instead. The presentation, plating, and flavor of the food were excellent. However, despite claiming to have a pastry chef, the desserts were disappointing.
So, regarding a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant, I can’t comment. As a bistro, I think Amicis is okay, but for me, there are many better options in Bordeaux, which I discuss below. Such as any of the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants, or Au Bistro, for that matter.
That said, Amicis was packed, and people seemed to be having a good time. So, “to each his own,” give it a try, maybe you will like it.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 5 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 3
It was a sunny and warm November day, so I decided to skip wine school and explore the Chartrons District, where I live. I stopped by “4th Wave Café” to enjoy a cup of Kona coffee (See my post “The Best Restaurants in Chatrons“).
Arcada restaurant, Bordeaux, France
While I was there, I struck up a conversation with the staff, and when I asked for their lunch recommendations, they suggested Arcada, a restaurant in downtown Bordeaux. So, I quickly canceled my lunch plans in Chartrons, made a reservation at Arcada, and headed downtown.
Arcada’s wine cellar, Bordeaux, France
I arrived at Arcada. The welcome was warm. I chose my seat. As an aperitif, I started with a white vermouth; I don’t know, I was just in the mood. It was nicely made and a refreshing start. They also offer a Bloody Mary, among other options.
Arcada’s white vermouth apéritif, Bordeaux, France
For starters, I ordered the “Roasted Portobello,” mascarpone-truffle stuffing, brown mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, sherry gel, green olive oil, and port sauce. I paired it with a glass of the “Château Bonnet Rouge Réserve.” It worked.
Arcada’s “Roasted Portobello,” mascarpone-truffle stuffing, brown mushrooms, roasted chestnuts, sherry gel, green olive oil, and port sauce.” Bordeaux, France
For my main course, I ordered the “Pork tenderloin,” cauliflower mousseline with brown butter, endive roasted in chorizo oil, sautéed shiitake mushrooms, pearl onions confit in cider vinegar, roasted hazelnuts, and pork jus. I paired it with a glass of the “Chateau Cartier, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 2019,” which worked well.
Arcada’s “Pork tenderloin,” cauliflower mousseline with brown butter, endive roasted in chorizo oil, sautéed shiitake mushrooms, pearl onions confit in cider vinegar, roasted hazelnuts, and pork jus,” Bordeaux, France
I then ordered the “Cheese Assortment,” and paired it with “Louise Dubois, Pouilly-Fuisse Grande Reserve, 2019.” It worked perfectly.
Arcada’s “Cheese Assortment,” Bordeaux, France
Finally, I selected the “White chocolate and soursop ganache, coconut shortbread, mango gel, passion fruit, vanilla coconut water, and ginger salted caramel.” I paired it with a “Château Saint Aubin, Bas Armagnac, Vintage 1992,” and it worked well.
Arcada’s “White chocolate and soursop ganache, coconut shortbread, mango gel, passion fruit, vanilla coconut water, and ginger salted caramel,” Bordeaux, France
In summary, Arcada’s ambiance, vibe, and service were exceptional. The wine-by-the-glass options and the overall wine list were above average. It would be a great addition to have a Maury by the glass, which is quite fashionable today, on the menu to pair with desserts. The presentation and plating of the dishes were also above average, and it was clear that the team was putting effort into each dish. The cheese plate, while somewhat basic, was reasonably priced at 6 euros, so it was hard to complain. The “chef’s” dessert was a commendable attempt. Overall, the experience was quite enjoyable.
In my opinion, the restaurant lives up to its reputation as a “restaurant to watch.” The value for money is exceptional, and the chef and the team are putting in extra effort to showcase their talents. If they maintain this level of quality, I wouldn’t be surprised to see them designated a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand or even receive a star within the next three to five years.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Cheese plate or dessert quality: 3 Yummy quotient: 4
As I mentioned above, bistros typically have smaller spaces than restaurants or brasseries, creating a cozier, more informal atmosphere that feels like a neighborhood favorite. They often serve traditional French cuisine, occasionally with a modern twist. To evaluate the bistros I visit, I use our 5-point rating system (refer to my blog post “5-point Restaurant Rating System” for more details).
Au Bistro
Wherever I go, I always try to find out where the locals eat. So, I asked one of my teachers at school (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“) for a list of recommended local restaurants. Au Bistro was on the list. In fact, he mentioned that when he worked nearby, he used to go to Au Bistro for lunch twice a week. I had to give it a try.
As is our fashion, we arrived early before the doors opened to ensure we had a good choice of seating. The first room features a long, bar-like counter that faces the kitchen. We unashamedly grabbed a seat at the counter, which allowed us to watch the chefs at work; the ambiance and vibe were lively.
Au Bistro’s counter, Bordeaux, France
Since Au Bistro is located directly across the square from the Marché des Capucins, the largest covered market in Bordeaux, it has access to a steady stream of ultra-fresh produce, meats, and fish. They have an excellent wine list by the bottle, and there were eight wine options available by the glass: four whites and four reds from various French wine regions, offered at reasonable prices.
To start, I ordered the “Oeufs en Meurette,” which are poached eggs in a red wine sauce (see the picture below).
Au Bistro’s “Œufs Meurette,” poached eggs in a rich and flavorful red wine sauce, Bordeaux, France
My wife opted for the pumpkin soup, see the picture below. Both dishes were excellent. In fact, the “Oeufs en Meurette” were the best I have had in France.
Au Bistro’s “Pumpkin Soup,” Bordeaux, France
For our main courses, I selected the râble de lapin, or rabbit saddle. Rabbit saddles refer to the loin meat from the rabbit; rabbit loin meat is exceptionally tender. My dish was served with root vegetables and a broth, see picture below. It was outstanding.
Au Bistro’s “Rabbit Saddle” with root vegetables and jus, Bordeaux, France
My wife opted for the Chicken Caesar Salad, see the picture below.
Au Bistro’s “Chicken Caesar Salad,” Bordeaux, France
For dessert, we decided to share Pain Perdu, French toast (yes, the French eat French toast for dessert). It was just ok. I have had much better, see the picture below.
Au Bistro’s “French toast,” Bordeaux, France
Au Bistro is a genuinely traditional French bistro that offers an intimate, cozy, and informal atmosphere. It focuses on simple, home-style meals, with a touch of gastronomy for good measure, making it a perfect neighborhood go-to spot.
In fact, it is the most authentically French experience I have had at a restaurant during my time in France. However, be prepared for a few things: the service rhythm is French, and while the staff is welcoming and pleasant, they maintain a professional distance. There are no English menus available, and to-go boxes are not provided, so bring your own.
Au Bistro, second visit
Au Bistro is by far the best bistro I have found in Bordeaux, and all the restaurants I know agree. So when my wife’s friend came to visit, we took her to Au Bistro. It was better than the first time. This is what we had:
Au Bistro’s “Village Soup” BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Soup Saint Jacques,” BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Sausage in Brioche” with gravy and side salad, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Sea Bass” with root vegetables and broth, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Scallops” with root vegetables and broth, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Braised Beef” with root vegetables and jus, BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Pear Clafoutis,” BordeauxAu Bistro’s “Soft Chocolate Cake,” Bordeaux
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 5 Dessert quality: 2
As I mentioned above, I always try to find out where locals eat whenever I travel. To find some recommended local restaurants, I asked one of my teachers at school for suggestions. He told me about Cochon Volant, a bistro famous for its dish featuring “Le Noir de Bigorre” (English: “The Black Pig of Bigorre”).
The “Black Pig of Bigorre” is distinguished by its distinctive black coat and horizontal ears. This breed is native to the Central Pyrenees and is not found anywhere else. Evidence of the Noir de Bigorre pig dates back to the Gallo-Roman era. Today, these pigs are raised in the foothills of the Pyrenees, where they are fed a natural, healthy diet of grass, fruits, and nuts, resulting in meat with distinct marbling and flavor.
The Black Pig of Bigorre is a product certified with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). This means that the name “Black Pig of Bigorre” can only be used for this specific breed of pig and cannot be applied to other breeds or black pigs raised in different locations. The PDO certification for Noir de Bigorre pork ensures that the pigs are born, raised, and slaughtered in a designated area that includes the Hautes-Pyrénées, certain towns in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, and parts of Gers and Haute-Garonne. Additionally, these pigs must be at least 12 months old at the time of slaughter.
I love “black pig.” In fact, ten years ago, I enjoyed Sicilian black pig, known as “Nero Siciliano,” in Taormina, Sicily. This breed is a domestic pig raised in the Nebrodi mountain range, which runs along the northeast coast of Sicily in the province of Messina.
We visited the Marché des Capucins yesterday and had lunch at Cochon Volant, located across the street from the market, next to CAMPET, a butcher shop renowned in Bordeaux for its traditional milk-fed lamb and duck cuts, including breasts, legs, wings, and fresh foie gras.
Cochon Volant offers a variety of dishes featuring Bigorre black pig. I opted for the ribs. They were excellent.
Cochon Volant’s pork ribs, Bordeaux, France
My favorite dish at Cochon Volant was the baked Camembert starter, served in a unique way. If I were to serve it to guests at home, I would prepare it as Cochon Volant: the cheese would be baked with crispy bacon on the side and accompanied by a side salad dressed with mustard vinaigrette, along with toast points topped with parsley and garlic persillade, as shown in the picture below.
Cochon Volant’s baked Camembert cheese, Bordeaux, France
Cochon Volant is a “shabby” French bistro. It is a neighborhood restaurant where one can enjoy French home cooking, particularly meat dishes, accompanied by a decent wine selection by the glass and or bottle.
For me, Cochon Volant was fun but just okay. If I spent the time to visit the Marché des Capucins, I would instead enjoy oysters at Chez Jean-Mi, an iconic restaurant specializing in oysters, seafood, and shellfish. Alternatively, I would visit Poulette le Bouscat, equally iconic, with its mussel bar inside the market or its lobster bar outside.
If I preferred to dine at a bistro, I would choose Au Bistro, as mentioned above. In fact, we enjoyed Au Bistro so much that when my wife’s old friend visited in December, after showing her the Marché des Capucins, we took her there so she could experience it.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 3 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 3 Presentation and plating: 3 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Bonvivant365 score: 15
Cochon Volan Address: 22 Pl. des Capucins, 33800 Bordeaux Phone: +33 05 57 59 10 00
Brasseries in Bordeaux, France
Brasseries typically feature a larger, more elegant, and open-air setting. A great example of this is the iconic Le Grand Colbert in Paris, which serves traditional French cuisine. I use a 5-point rating system to compare the bistros I visit; you can find more details in my blog post titled “5-Point Restaurant Rating System.”
Below are the best brasseries in Bordeaux I found.
Brasserie Bordelaise
We visited Brasserie Bordelaise three years ago on our first visit to Bordeaux. We found the food decent, but the experience felt somewhat touristy given its central location. This time, we did not plan to visit. But several local sommeliers highly recommended this restaurant, praising its classic dishes from Southwest France and its extensive wine list. So, we decided to give it another try. This is what I discovered.
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “Charcuterie platter,” Bordeaux cracklings, Médoc granaries, Iberian sausage, chorizo, Cebo ham, Bordeaux, France
To begin, we shared Brasserie Bordelaise’s “Charcuterie platter,” which included Bordeaux cracklings, Médoc granaries, Iberian sausage, chorizo, and Cebu ham, as shown in the picture above. We paired the platter with Champagne, Paul Laurent Brut, and a Crémant de Bordeaux, Château Fonchereau.
“La Perle” oysters, No. 3 from OËL DUPUCH, oyster farmer in Cap-Ferret, Bordeaux, France, as shown in the picture below. The Perle is a plump, crisp oyster paired with a Melody, a Côtes de Gascogne moelleux.
Brasserie Bordelaise’s “La Perle” oysters, No. 3 from OËL DUPUCH, oyster farmer in Cap-Ferret, Bordeaux, France
For my main course, I selected the “Beef cheek Bordelaise style,” accompanied by mashed potatoes and roasted carrots, and paired it with a Château Richebon, Pauillac, 2019.
My wife selected the “Roast chicken from the Gruey farm in Pissos,” accompanied by rich jus, truffled stuffing, confit garlic, and dauphinoise potatoes, paired with a 2024 Château Perron, Graves.
Brasserie-Bordelaise’s “Roast chicken from the Gruey farm in Pissos,” rich jus, truffled stuffing, confit garlic, dauphinoise potatoes, Bordeaux, France
For dessert, we share the “French toast,” accompanied by salted caramel, vanilla ice cream (see the picture below), and paired with Audry, Fine Champagne XO, a blend of 50% Grande Champagne and 50% Petite Champagne.
Brasserie Bordelaise is a large, family-friendly French brasserie specializing in dishes from the Southwest of France, accompanied by an extensive wine list. In fact, it is the most family-friendly brasserie I have encountered during my stay in France.
The restaurant was filled with large groups of multi-generational families enjoying good food and drink while connecting. As a French friend remarked, “It is an easy place to visit; it is always exactly what you expect it to be.”
If you’re in central Bordeaux and looking for a family-friendly dining option, Brasserie Bordelaise is an excellent choice. It offers mass-produced, well-prepared, and presented gourmet versions of classic Southwestern French dishes in a lovely setting with a fun vibe, superb service, and an impressive wine list (English spoken if needed).
Ambiance, vibe, service: 5 Wine by the glass options: 5 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 3 Dessert quality: 3
Le Quatrième Mur’s Brasserie (English: The Fourth Wall) operates as a brasserie and a MICHELIN 1-star restaurant in the evening. Since we did not want to go at night (at this time), we visited the brasserie for lunch. So, I’m unable to share my thoughts on the MICHELIN 1-star experience, but I can share my thoughts on the brasserie.
Despite the beautiful setting, for us, the atmosphere felt more like a cafeteria, and the service seemed chaotic, even by Brasserie standards, but the wine-by-the-glass selections were good.
For my starter, my wife had the “Signature Entree”: mushroom fricassee ravioli, pan-seared foie gras, and a creamy mushroom sauce, pictured below. I had the “Fresh Mackerel”: flame-seared with blueberry relish, lemon cream, and tangy vinaigrette. Both were plated well and “yummy.”
The Fourth Walls’ “Signature Entree,” mushroom fricassee ravioli, pan-seared foie gras, and a creamy mushroom sauce
For her main course, my wife chose the “Roasted Pollock,” which was served with butternut risotto, seaweed relish, and a seafood emulsion. I ordered the “Pan-fried Pork Tenderloin,” accompanied by hazelnut Viennese pastry, a variation of Jerusalem artichoke with coffee, lemon/calamansi gel, and a rich coffee jus.
The main courses were plated well but lacked overall flavor and any “yumminess, so we pushed them aside. Due to the service being painfully slow and our disappointment with the main courses, we chose not to try the dessert. So I do not give Le Quatrième Mur a final score below.
As for Le Quatrième Mur, I can’t comment on it as a MICHELIN 1-Star restaurant. However, as a brasserie, I don’t think it’s the best choice in Bordeaux; there are better options, such as MICHELIN Bib Gourmand restaurants and Au Bistro, which I discuss below.
That said, Le Quatrième Mur was quite busy, and diners seemed to be enjoying themselves. Ultimately, it’s a matter of personal preference, so you might want to give it a try—you may enjoy it.
Ambiance, vibe, service: 2 Wine by the glass options or pairing: 4 Presentation and plating: 4 Yummy quotient: 2 Dessert quality: (Did not try, can’t comment)
No final Bonvivant365 score since not all factors were completed.
Address: Opéra National de Bordeaux – Grand-Théâtre, 2 Pl. de la Comédie, 33000 Phone: 05 56 02 49 70 https://quatrieme-mur.com/
Le Noailles
We were told that Le Noailles is hands down the most Parisian of Bordeaux Brasseries, at least that is what I was told. So, my wife and I had to try it.
One afternoon, we visited, and I began with oysters, while my wife ordered the gazpacho, which reminded us of “ready-made gazpacho” from a box with chopped fresh vegetables on the side.
Le Noailles’s “Carpaccio,” Bordeaux, France
Given the ambiance, vibe, service, and food quality, based on what we tried first, we decided it was best to cut our losses and leave. We will not return.
Casual dining falls between fast food and fine dining. These restaurants are themed and offer table service, along with a selection of cocktails, beer, and wine, or a combination of these beverages. I do not apply our 5-point restaurant rating system to casual dining (see my blog post “5-point Restaurant Rating System“)
Below are the best casual dining restaurants in Bordeaux that I found.
Peking Garden, Chinese Sichuanese Cuisine
The Peking Garden (French: Le Jardin Pekinois) is a casual Chinese restaurant specializing in Sichuan cuisine. This style of cooking originates from Sichuan Province in southwestern China. It is renowned for its bold flavors and generous use of Sichuan peppers, which can cause a numbing, tingling sensation when consumed in large quantities.
I ordered the beef and onions, pictured below, which is “épicé et pimenté” (English: spicy and hot). My eyes watered, my nose ran, and my face fell numb. It hurt to eat it, in a good way. I almost gave up. But then I channeled my inner “Doss” and thought, “Oh, Lord, let me take one more bite. Just one more bite, Lord,” and finished the entire dish, including all the Sichuan peppers —see picture below.
The Peaking Garden’s beef and onions, Bordeaux, France
I am not kidding. This is a fact. According to the “Google Oracle,” Szechuan pepper creates a unique sensation that is both numbing and tingling. This distinct sensory experience is caused by a compound called hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, which interacts with nerve endings to produce its characteristic buzz.
Peking Garden – Second Visit
Since I was in the area, I decided to return to Peaking Garden. I had the beef and onions again, but this time I started with the homemade fried chicken spring rolls, which were served with lettuce, mint leaves, and fish sauce. They were excellent, as shown in the picture below.
Peking Garden’s homemade fried chicken spring rolls with lettuce, mint leaves, and fish sauce, Bordeaux, France
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