My wife and I are currently in Bordeaux to attend the CAFA wine school (see my post, “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice”). Before the program started, we spent a week in Cyprus, staying in the old town of Larnaca. Larnaca, also known as Larnaka, is the longest continuously inhabited area in Cyprus, with a history that dates back 4,000 years.
Larnaca is by far our favorite seaside town on the island. It is not overly polished; it has a warm, Mediterranean atmosphere, and the local Cypriot people are incredibly welcoming.
Here are our favorite places to eat:
Alasia Cafe
Alasia Cafe in Larnaca is a short walk down the promenade from Larnaka Castle, heading toward Mackenzie Beach, across from Militzis’ Restaurant, mentioned below. It offers traditional Cypriot food and wine, and provides a cozy atmosphere with excellent service at reasonable prices.
Alasia is famous throughout the island for its homemade desserts. When we arrived to try them, we looked at the full menu and decided to share a grilled whole fish with fries and a side of tzatziki. The fish was fresh and grilled to perfection.
Next, we ordered three desserts to sample, which were just as advertised. The Loukoumádes, pictured below, are light and crispy Greek doughnuts dipped in honey syrup and served with vanilla ice cream.
If I had more time in Larnaca, I would have gone back to Alasia several more times to try more of the menu.
Address: Piale Pasa, Larnaca 6026
Phone: 24 655868
https://www.facebook.com/people/Alasia-Cafe/100063653301975/#
Alonia Tavern
Although it was my first time in Cyprus, I have visited Greece, its close relation, many times and have always enjoyed dining at traditional tavernas that offer delicious food, lively music, and dancing. I wanted my wife, who had never experienced this before, to enjoy it as well.
So on our trip to Cyprus, I searched extensively for the just the right traditional tavern to take her to for authentic Cypriot food and live music. After an exhaustive search, I decided on Alonia Tavern and called to make a reservation for Saturday night.
Saturday night came, and we took a cab from “Old Town Larnaca” to the tavern. We arrived early and were immediately warmly greeted by the staff, as if we had known each other for years. We felt right at home. At that moment, I knew I had made the right choice.
Up to this point, one thing that impressed me about Cyprus was the openness and friendliness of the Cypriots, especially in the old town of Larnaca and the surrounding villages. The staff at Alonia, along with the musicians and other guests, truly reflected the soul and authentic energy of Cyprus. I knew at that moment it was going to be a magical night to remember.
I digress; I haven’t even mentioned the food yet. It was absolutely fantastic—in the best way possible. They began serving the meza, and it seemed like it would never end. More and more dishes kept coming out. After that, they brought our meat dishes, and the whole meal concluded with a delicious homemade chocolate cake.
At one point, I realized that I had never asked the price of the meal, so I inquired, “How much are we paying for this feast?” The server responded that it was 25 euros per person. I was taken aback. Jokingly, I said, “Is that per dish?” The waiter laughed and clarified, “No, it’s 25 euros per person for the entire meal.” I was dumbfounded.
In all, we served generous portions of:
- Bastourma pies, potato salad, Lebanese yogurt dip with minced meat and eggplant, tzatziki dip, tahini, beetroot, and Greek village salad, pictured below.
- Sausages, beef liver, mushrooms, and village-style pasta;
- Strapatsada (scrambled eggs with tomatoes, green peppers, and caramelized onions);
- Chicken livers with mushrooms and caramelised onions, koupepia, and smyrna meatball;
- Chicken kebab, pork kebab, sheftalia.
- Boneless chicken thigh marinated with oil and smoked paprika, wine-marinated pork bacon, and French fries, and;
- Homemade, moist chocolate cake with ice cream for dessert
The tavern is family-owned and operated. Christos (the father) owns the tavern and is the cook. Stephanos (the son) manages the front of the house with the help of his girlfriend.
Maire, the mother, also helps in the kitchen.
The band does not have a name. Mr. Christodoulos plays the bouzouki and sings, and Mrs Myroul accompanies him.
You can dance and buy plaster plates for smashing.
Address: St Paraskevi Church, 37 Livadia, Larnaca 7060, Cyprus
Phone: +357 95 106566
https://www.facebook.com/people/Alonia-Tavern-Livadia/100050826442498/#
Maqam Al-Sultan Restaurant
Maqam Al-Sultan Restaurant is a Lebanese eatery located adjacent to the Medieval Fort on the Larnaca pier. It offers an extensive selection of hot and cold mezzas, as well as main courses available à la carte or in set menus.
Additionally, a wine list featuring Lebanese and Cypriot wines is available. We chose the “Chateau Ksara Le Prieuré,” which comes from one of Lebanon’s oldest vineyards, established in 1857.
Over two nights, we sampled ten different hot and cold mezzas (there are more):
- Hummus – chickpea puree with sesame paste (Tahini) and lemon juice.
- Hummus Beiruti – chickpea puree with hot pepper, parsley, sesame paste (Tahini), and lemon juice
- Shanklish – strained yogurt, oregano, and dry spices, topped with fresh tomato, onion, and olive oil
- Moutabal Baba Ghanouj – grilled aubergine puree mixed with sesame paste (Tahini) and lemon juice.
- Rahib – grilled aubergine mixed with sweet bell peppers, garlic, finely chopped onion, and parsley, dressed with pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, and olive oil.
- Moussaka Batinjan – fried aubergine baked with tomato, onion, garlic, chickpeas, and spices.
- Fattoush – lettuce, tomato, cucumber, onion, radish, pomegranate seeds, and toasted pieces of Lebanese bread, served with Al-Sultan sauce dressing.
- Tabbouleh – parsley salad with tomato, crushed wheat, onion, fresh mint, lemon juice, and olive oil dressing.
- Muhammara – a blend of grilled sweet red pepper, crushed walnuts, olive oil, paprika, and Lebanese herbs.
- Warak Inab B’Zeit, – vine leaves filled with rice, tomato, parsley, mint, and onion, cooked in olive oil with lemon juice.
- Kibbeh Maklieh, five pieces of deep-fried traditional Lebanese meatballs filled with sautéed minced lamb and beef, onion, and pine nuts, pictured below.
- Jawaneh, six pieces of charcoal-grilled marinated chicken wings, served with garlic sauce.
If you make it through the mezza, as mentioned above, Maqam Al-Sultan offers a selection of main courses, including meat and fish options. The first night, after all the mezza, I ordered the “Mixed Grill,” which included four skewers: one of Chicken Kafta, one of Shish Taouk, one of Kafta, and one of Lahem Meshw, pictured below. To say the least, it was “full to bursting.”
The true highlight of the meal was the dessert. We opted for the baklava, a selection of traditional Lebanese pastries filled with nuts, pictured below. I didn’t have high expectations, as I thought I knew what to expect from baklava based on my previous experiences. However, I was pleasantly surprised. The baklava from Maqam Al-Sultan was exceptional—it truly stood out. It was a home run and easily the best baklava I have ever tasted. They don’t make it in-house. They source from the best Lebanese bakery on the Island.
Maqam Al-Sultan’s dishes are a journey through Middle Eastern flavours and aromas. They highlight fresh, high-quality ingredients, including herbs like mint, parsley, and cilantro, as well as spices such as sumac, cinnamon, and za’atar, along with fruits like pomegranate.
I have only one word to describe Maqam Al-Sultan: amazing.
Address: Agkiras Larnaca CY, 6026
Phone: 24 400665
https://maqamalsultan.com/
Militzis Restaurant
Militzis Restaurant is the best place for traditional Cypriot meat dishes… I already wrote about Militzis’ Sheep’s Head (see my post “Try Sheep’s Head, Cyprus“
Address: Piale Pasa 42, Larnaca 6026, Cyprus
Phone: +357 24 655867
https://militzis.com/
Pizzeria 485°
Pizzeria 485 ° makes classic Neapolitan pizza in Larnaca. All ingredients come from Italy—classic Neapolitan. I ordered the Campania, tomato San Marzano D.O.P., Mozzarella Fiordilatte, Basil, Parmigiano Reggiano D.O.P., Salsiccia Salami, pictured below.
Address: Q City Center |, D.N Dimitriou 11, Larnaca 6022, Cyprus
Phone: +357 70 000485
Stou Roushia
Recommended as “his” local favorite for Greek food by our Airbnb host, “Stou Roushia,” located in Larnaca’s old town, did not disappoint. We went there on our first night and had an excellent selection of meze, grilled lamb, pictured below, and Cypriot wine by the glass.
After trying other Greek restaurants in the area, I agree with my Airbnb host that “Stou Roushia” is the best place to eat Greek food in Larnaca.
Address: Nikolaou Laniti, Larnaca 6022
Phone: +357 24 400676
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Stou-Roussia/368823696510768
Takis Georgiou Kafeneio – Sandwich Place
Takis Georgiou Kafeneio, a sandwich shop in Larnaca, is renowned for making the finest traditional toasted Cypriot sandwiches, made with triara buns.
Two women work behind the counter. The woman I spoke to told me that she has been making sandwiches at Takis since she was 16 years old, or 59 years ago.
The ‘traditional’ Cypriot sandwich includes: ham, cheese, and halloumi, bacon, pork lountza, smoked ham, mayo, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and homemade pickles on the side, pictured below:
Address: Ermou 127, Larnaca 6022, Cyprus
Phone: +357 24 628681