My wife and I had lunch at all the Lyonnais Bouchons certified by the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais Association.” Each time, I ordered the pike quenelle. Over six weeks, I sampled 17 pike quenelle; 19 if you count “Restaurant Paul Bocuse,” and the one we made at the “Paul Bocuse” cooking school.
I rated the quenelles I tried using a scale from Very Poor to Excellent: Very Poor, Below Average, Average, Above Average, and Excellent. Three quenelles received an Excellent rating, while only one received a Poor rating. The rest fell somewhere in between.
Unfortunately, I had planned to go on a diet while in Lyon to lose the weight I gained during six months of culinary and pastry school. I failed to achieve that goal, but I truly enjoyed every moment of my experience. So, without further ado (drum roll, please), I present to you the “Quenelles of the Les Bouchons Lyonnais.”
Daniel & Denise Quenelle
Daniel and Denise’s pike quenelle, served with Nantua sauce, was beautifully shaped, light, and fluffy. The Nantua sauce had a perfect nappe consistency, a velvety smooth texture, and a deliciously rich umami flavor.
This quality is to be expected, considering that the Bouchon has been run by two “Meilleurs Ouvriers de France” (MOF), or “Best Craftsmen of France,” for over 50 years. You can recognize these chefs by the blue, white, and red collars on their kitchen jackets. As my chef instructors always emphasized, “If you see the blue, white, and red collar on the chef’s jacket—go.”
In my opinion, Daniel & Denise’s pike quenelle was excellent in every way. I tried it three times. It never disappointed.
DANIEL & DENISE CROIX ROUSSE
Address: 8 Rue de Cuire, 69004 Lyon 04
Phone: +33 04 78 28 27 44
https://www.capcadeau.com/daniel-denise-croix-rousse
Café Comptoir Abel Quenelle
Café Comptoir Abel (Abel Counter Cafe) serves a unique pike quenelle with a béchamel sauce that includes mushrooms instead of the traditional Nantua or crustacean sauce. The staff takes great pride in their quenelle, and rightly so. Established in 1928, Café Comptoir Abel is a cherished institution in Lyon. When I mentioned my project to them, they cautioned that I would not find or taste a pike quenelle quite like theirs.
Café Comptoir Abel’s pike quenelle lives up to its reputation. Described as “fresh from the oven, airy, and puffed up like an airship, voluptuously lying in a bath of cream,” it truly delivers on taste. This quenelle is an excellent alternative if you do not like Nantua sauce or any crustacean sauces. The only other establishment labeled Bouchon that offers béchamel sauce with mushrooms is Le Poêlon d’Or, which will be discussed below. At Le Poêlon d’Or, you can choose between béchamel sauce with mushrooms or Nantua sauce.
In my opinion, Café Comptoir Abel’s pike quenelle was “Average.” I just could not get behind the bechamel sauce.
Café Comptoir Abel
Address: 25 Rue Guynemer, 69002 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 37 46 18
https://www.maisonabel.fr/maison-abel/le-cafe-comptoir-chez-abel/
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers Quenelle
At Le Bouchon des Cordeliers (The Cordeliers Cork), the Lyonnaise quenelle made with pike is served with a delicious lobster sauce. The quenelle is cooked until well done, but not overcooked. While it may not be as light, fluffy, and delicate as some other quenelles, it is still nicely prepared.
During my class at “School Kitchen Gourmets By Institut Lyfe,” the chef explained that traditional Nantua sauce is often replaced with lobster sauce to appeal to a broader audience.
In my opinion, Le Bouchon des Cordelier’s pike quenelle was “Average,” but served with delicious lobster sauce.
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers
Address: 15 Rue Claudia, 69002 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 03 33 53
https://www.bouchondescordeliers.com/
Le Tête De Lard Quenelle
Le Tête De Lard’s (The Lard Head)Le Tête De Lard’s (The Lard Head) pike quenelle is accompanied by a crayfish sauce called Nantua sauce. The quenelle was expertly prepared—light, fluffy, and delicate, precisely as it should be—and generously coated in sauce. There was ample sauce left over to mix with the delicious potato gratin that accompanied the meal.
In my opinion, Le Tête De Lard’s pike quenelle is “Average,” but I loved the Nantua sauce, and there was plenty of it.
Le Tête De Lard
Address : 13 Rue Désirée, 69001 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 27 96 80
https://www.bouchon-latetedelard.fr/notre-carte/
Le Casse Museau Quenelle
Le Casse Museau’s (The Muse Breaker) pike quenelle is served with langoustine sauce. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate as it should be. I wish I had more sauce.
In my opinion, Le Casse Museau’s pike quenelle was “Average” and lacked sauce.
Le Casse Museau
Address: 2 Rue Chavanne, 69001 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 32 64 42
https://lecassemuseau.com/
L’Auberge des Canuts Quenelle
L’Auberge des Canuts’ (The Canuts Inn) Pike quenelle is served with a crustacean sauce, including crab, crayfish, lobster, prawns, or shrimps. This is different from the other Bouchons. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, served with a generous amount of sauce.
In my opinion, Le Casse Museau’s pike quenelle was “Average,” but the crustacean sauce was an interesting twist and very good.
Auberge des canuts
Address: 8 Pl. Saint-Jean, 69005 Lyon
Phone: +33 09 86 50 36 26
https://auberge-des-canuts.com/menus-carte-bouchon-lyonnais/
Le Poêlon d’Or Quenelle
Le Poêlon d’Or Quenelle (The Golden Pan) pike quenelle is served with the sauce of your choice: Mushroom Béchamel or Nantua (also known as crayfish) sauce. Of course, I chose the Nantua sauce. The quenelle was served nicely formed, well-cooked, and piping hot, swimming in sauce.
The chef’s Nantua sauce was not muted; it truly highlighted the crayfish’s flavor. Le Poêlon d’Or’s Nantua sauce was a bold representation, rich in flavor and packed with umami. As a result, it stood out uniquely among all the Bouchons in the association I tried.
In my opinion, Le Poêlon d’Or’s pike quenelle was “Average,” but it was served with “in your face” Nantua sauce, which I enjoyed.
Le Poêlon d’Or
Address: 29 Rue des Remparts d’Ainay, 69002 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 37 65 60
https://www.lepoelondor-restaurant.fr/#cartes
Café du Jura Quenelle
Café du Jura’s quenelle, made from pike, is served with lobster sauce. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, while the sauce was richly flavored and well-prepared. Overall, this was a very good quenelle paired with a delicious sauce.
In my opinion, Café du Jura’s quenelle was “Above Average.”
Café du Jura
Address: 25 Rue Tupin, 69002 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 42 20 57
cafedujura.fr
Restaurant Le Vivarais Quenelle
Restaurant Le Vivarais’ pike-perch quenelle is served with Nantua sauce, Arborio risotto, and mushrooms incorporated into the sauce. I believe he cooks the Arborio rice in the sauce, allowing it to break down and absorb the flavors, but I am not sure.
The quenelle was large and well-formed like an airship, light and fluffy. The sauce was elegant, unlike anything I had tasted before. No matter how full I became, I couldn’t stop eating the entire quenelle and sauce. The chef is a Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF), so I was not surprised—I was just impressed. I plan to attempt to replicate this pike quenelle dish when I have time. I will post the results.
In terms of food, everything at Le Vivarais, which is more akin to a restaurant, was excellent and offered an impressive gastronomic experience.
In my opinion, the quenelle at Restaurant Le Vivarais was “Excellent” and my favorite quenelle in Lyon. I dream about this quanelle and sauce.
Restaurant Le Vivarais
Address: 1 Pl. Gailleton, 69002 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 37 85 15
restaurant-levivarais.fr
Bouchon Palais Grillet Quenelle
Bouchon Palais Grillet’s (Grilled Palate Cork) pike quenelle is accompanied by crab bisque. This quenelle was unique in shape, and the crab sauce was a new experience for me.
In my opinion, Bouchon Palais Grillet’s quenelle was “Below Average,” but the crab bisque sauce was interesting.
Bouchon Palais Grillet
Address: 8 Rue Palais Grillet, 69002 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 72 04 04 00
bouchonpalaisgrillet.com
Les Fines Gueules
Les Fines Gueules (The Fine Mouths), “Pike fish quenelle, homemade crab, and lobster bisque” was excellent. The quenelle was light, fluffy, and delicate, precisely as it should be. The sauce was delicious; however, the portion was so large that I couldn’t finish the quenelle or the bisque.
I apologized to the chef and the waiter for not being able to complete my meal. Les Fines Gueules was one of the best quenelles I have had.
In my opinion, Les Fines Gueules’ quenelle was “Very Good,” just a step below Le Daniel & Denise’s or Restaurant Le Vivarais.
Les Fines Gueules
Address: 16 Rue Lainerie, 69005 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 28 29 57 14
les-fines-gueules-lyon.com
Le Sully
Le Sully (The Sully) pike quenelle is served with Nantua sauce. It was heavier and richer than most. I could not finish it. Frankly, I believe my quenelle was overcooked and not typically served this way, or, as a chef, I would not serve it this way.
This highlights the importance of timing when cooking a quenelle. If the timing is slightly off, it can significantly compromise the dish. However, I didn’t blame the chef; after tasting it, I politely said I was too full to finish. It happens—every great chef can have an off day or serve a dish that doesn’t meet expectations. If I find myself in Lyon again, I will try it.
In my opinion, Le Sully’s quenelle was “Below Average.”
Le Sully
Address: 20 Rue Sully, 69006 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 89 07 09
lebouchonsully.com
La Chez Meuniere
The pike quenelle I was served at Chez Meunière (The Miller’s) was dense, like a pound cake. The Nanuta cream sauce was rich and concentrated. I could not eat it.
Frankly, I believe my quenelle was overcooked and not typically served this way, or, as a chef, I would not serve it this way. To test my theory, I walked through Bouchon and observed other quenelles that had been served; they looked as they should.
Again, this highlights the importance of timing when cooking a quenelle. If the timing is slightly off, it can significantly compromise the dish. However, I didn’t blame the chef; after tasting it, I politely said I was too full to finish. It happens—every great chef can have an off day or serve a dish that doesn’t meet expectations. If I find myself in Lyon again, I will try it.
In my opinion, the quenelle I was served at La Chez Meuniere was “Poor.” I have to believe I just got a bad quebelle? Knowing what I know now about quenelles, I would have sent it back and asked for another.
La Chez Meuniere
Address: 11 Rue Neuve, 69001 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 28 62 91
https://www.lameuniere.fr/
Le Bouchon des Artistes
Le Bouchon des Artistes’ (The Artists’ Cork) “Puffed pike quenelle with Nantua sauce, white and wild rice,” was different from the others I tried. It purposefully had a hard top but was light, fluffy, and delicate in the center. The sauce was as expected.
In my opinion, Le Bouchon des Artistes’ quenelle was “Below Average.” I was not a fan of the hard top.
Le Bouchon des Artistes
Address: 98 Rue Mazenod, 69003 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 03 37 40
le-bouchon-des-artistes.fr
L’antr’O Potes
L’antr’O Potes served a “Puffed Pike Quenelle with Nantua Sauce, white rice, and wild rice” that was a true delight to behold. It was the most soufflé-like quenelle I have ever sampled.
Chef Julien Le Guillou, a disciple of Paul Bocuse, explained that his quenelle dough—a traditional mixture of panade and blended pike meat—is prepared a day in advance. His Nantua sauce, also known as crayfish sauce, is remarkable and takes six hours to make. This meticulous process reflects the classic “Bocuse-esque” style.
After making the quenelle dough, the quenelles are poached in fish fumet for 10 minutes. They are then combined with half-cooked white and wild rice and Nantua sauce in a gratin dish, and finished in the oven for 10 minutes. The quenelles are served piping hot; the results are outstanding (see picture below).
In my opinion, L’antr’O Potes’s quenelle was “Very Good” with lots of sauce. I really enjoyed this quenelle.
L’antr’O Potes
Address: 118 Rue Bossuet, 69006 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 81 65 29 78
lantropotes-lyon.fr
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette (Market Bistro at Nénette) ‘s “Artisanal Pike Quenelle, crayfish sauce” was lightly browned. Initially, I thought the quenelle looked undercooked because of its light browning. However, it was perfectly cooked—light, fluffy, delicate, and smooth. The Nantua sauce was magical. No matter how full I got, I couldn’t stop eating this quenelle.
In my opinion, Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette’s pike quenelle was “Very Good” and among my all-time favorite pike quenelles.
Bistrot du Marché chez Nénette
Address: 10 Pl. de l’Église, 69380 Les Chères
Phone: +33 04 72 17 52 88
Les Culottes Longues
Les Culottes Longues’ (Long Panties) “Pike Quenelle and Fish Cake, Lobster Sauce” was a new twist. Typically, pike quenelles are served with rice or potatoes, not a fish cake. This innovative twist is characteristic of Chef David Cano, who is known for continually experimenting with new techniques to improve and advance.
The pike quenelle was light and delicate. The fish case was flaky and yummy. The lobster sauce was delicious. The elements complemented each other perfectly, making the dish easy to eat.
In my opinion, Les Culottes Longues’ pike quenelle was “Average,” but the addition of the accompanying fish cake was very nice.
Les Culottes Longues
Address: 42 Rue Sala, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 37 13 00
les-culottes-longues.com
Bouchon Léa
Bouchon Léa offers a homemade pike quenelle served with lobster sauce. The quenelle is well-formed, light, and delicate, accompanied by rice pilaf.
In my opinion, Bouchon Léa’s pike quenelle was “Above Average” and worth a try.
Bouchon Léa
Address: 11 Pl. Antonin Gourju, 69002 Lyon
Phone: 04 78 42 03 13
lamerelea.com
Restaurant Paul Bocuse
No research and discussion of “Les quenelles de Lyon” would be complete without a visit to the 2 Star MICHELIN Restaurant Paul Bocuse.
Paul Bocuse was a renowned French chef from Lyon and a key figure in the development of “nouvelle cuisine,” which emerged in the 1960s. This cooking style is characterized by lighter, more delicate dishes compared to traditional French cuisine, with an emphasis on presentation and plating. Notably, “Monsieur Paul,” as he was known to his contemporaries, was one of the few chefs to maintain his three Michelin stars for over 50 years. He was referred to as “the pope of gastronomy.” The Bocuse d’Or, a biennial world chef championship, is named in his honor.
Restaurant Paul Bocuse is situated in Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, France, just a short drive or Uber ride from Lyon. Unfortunately, Paul Bocuse passed away in 2018. Today, the restaurant is led by Executive Chef Gilles Reinhardt and his team, who work diligently to uphold the legacy of Paul Bocuse, and they do so exceptionally well.
As you would expect, the Restaurant Paul Boucse quenelle is made, plated, and presented differently than at a Bouchon. Here, the quenelles are expertly shaped and served with a Champagne sauce, as shown in the image below.
Dining at Restaurant Paul Bocuse was a truly magical experience. The service was exemplary, and the food was marvelous. The cheese and dessert carts are truly something to behold.
In my opinion, Restaurant Paul Boucse’s quenelle was “Excellent,” and the presentation outstanding.
Address : 40 Rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or
Phone: +33 04 72 42 90 90
https://bocuse.fr/fr/
Institut Paul Bocuse Cooking Workshop, Lyon, France
During our trip to Lyon, we not only indulged in some of the best quenelles but also took a one-day cooking course called “THE KITCHEN OF THE GONES,” at the Paul Bocuse cooking school, now renamed “School Kitchen Gourmets by Institut Lyfe.” It was one of the best cooking experiences I’ve ever had.
We learned how to prepare a variety of dishes, including “Frog balls with greens, garlic, and parsley,” “Brioche sausage,” “Saint Marcellin in breadcrumbs, served with a salad with walnut oil,” a “Pink Praline Tart,” and, of course, “Pike quenelle with Nantua sauce,” as shown in the picture below.
For lunch, we enjoyed all the dishes we had prepared, paired with a carefully selected wine. Additionally, we received printed recipes to take home. I highly recommend this workshop!
Located in: Le Royal Hotel Lyon – MGallery Collection
Address: 20 Pl. Bellecour, 69002 Lyon
Phone: +33 04 78 37 03 00
https://www.ecoledecuisine.institutpaulbocuse.com/
To learn more about our experiences at each Bouchon, refer to my post titled “Best Bouchons in Lyon.”