Château de Reignac Visit, Saint-Loubès

My wife and I visited the Château de Reignac in Bordeaux’s Entre-deux-Mers region. We learned much about its unique history and wines, including the patented Vatelot method used to make the Château’s flagship wine, BALTHVS.

Château de Reignac, Saint-Loubès, France
Château de Reignac, Saint-Loubès, France

The Château was built in the 16th century. In 1990, Yves Vatelot, a French inventor and entrepreneur, bought the estate, restored the buildings, updated the wine-making facilities, and collaborated with oenologist consultant Michel Rollan to focus on the vineyards and winemaking.

Today, Château de Reignac is seen as one of the top estates in Entre-deux-Mers and the larger Bordeaux wine region. It is recognized for its excellent terroir, consistent quality driven by its focus on excellence, and its value for money.

The “inner workings” of the patented Vatelot method

This is my understanding of how the Vatelot method works and why it is effective: The process begins with cold maceration and fermentation of grapes in aluminum vats. Subsequently, oak barrels are filled with the fermented wine and the grape must, which consists of crushed grapes containing juice, skins, and seeds. The barrels are sealed with a head (pictured below) and rotated several times daily. Metal bars within the barrels enhance post-fermentation maceration. Because the barrels remain sealed, the wine experiences significantly less air contact and, consequently, less oxidation than with the pump-over or punch-down methods. After this stage, the wine is racked, meaning it is transferred to barrels for malolactic fermentation.

In the 19th century, a greenhouse attributed to the engineer Gustave Eiffel was added to the estate; see the picture below.

Tasting Notes: BALTHVS, 2016

Tasted in non-blind conditions in my Airbnb in Bordeaux, France.

Bordeaux 2016: According to The Wine Cellar Insider, the 2016 Bordeaux season began with unusually cool and record-setting wet weather. Despite this, early June flowering, particularly for Merlot, was highly successful, resulting in the most significant crop per hectare since 2004. But the summer drought left many vineyards short of moisture by September, causing some vines to nearly halt their growth to conserve energy.

Although Merlot remained abundant and healthy, it required water. Rainfall on September 13 and 14 benefited the Merlot, while additional rain on September 30 and October 1 arrived when Cabernet Sauvignon needed it most. These conditions required winemakers to pick carefully and sort grapes, separating overripe and drought-affected fruit from ripe, fresh ones. Notably, there was virtually no rot on the red grapes for the third consecutive year (See 2016 Bordeaux Harvest and Vintage Report).

Grape varieties: 100% Merlot (old vine 30 years)

About the wine: According to the Château de Reignac 2016 fact sheet, in terms of viticulture, spring de-budding was performed to remove buds on the vine’s spurs or branches that were considered to be of little or no use to the vine. Leaves were manually thinned, and removal was performed on the east-facing side to allow for morning sun. Green harvesting was conducted twice to remove excess green bunches from the vines before the grapes changed color and the sugar content rose, reducing yield, concentrating nutrients, and releasing them to the remaining bunches to build healthier grapes. The grapes were then hand-picked into small baskets and double-sorted both before and after destemming.

In terms of vinification, the grapes were cold macerated at 6°C for 7 days before fermentation. They then fermented for 35 days in two new oak barrels using the patented Vatelot method, which also included post-fermentation maceration. After this, the wine was racked to barrels and underwent malolactic fermentation.

Finally, the wine was aged in 100% new oak barrels, stirring the lees in the barrels
stacked using the Oxoline system. Coopers: Garonnaise.

Appearance (Visual examination): A bright, red wine free of sediment and gas with a dark, inky purple color, a cherry-copper rim, and a deep inky purple hue; moderately concentrated with medium-low viscosity.

Nose (Olfactory examination): Medium intensity with notes of black fruit, such as plum, sour cherry, flower aromas of lavender, and nuances of chocolate, tobacco, and black pepper.

Palate (Gustative examination): Elegant, yet fresh. Structured with richness and silky tannins, the finish is well-balanced, with a persistence that leaves a lingering hint of spicy dark chocolate on the palate.

Service: Decant for 1 hour. Serve at 16-18°C (61-64°F) in a Bordeaux wine glass.

Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise, rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce, served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries), is a classic pairing.

I made and paired the BALTHVS, 2016, with an “Aberdeen Angus Steak” from “Gastronomie Des Pyrénées,” a port wine foie gras sauce, and freshly harvested young, small sauteed potatoes.

Bonvivant365's "Aberdeen Angus Steak" from "Gastronomie Des Pyrénées," port wine foie gras sauce, young sauteed potatoes
Bonvivant365’s “Aberdeen Angus Steak” from “Gastronomie Des Pyrénées,” port wine foie gras sauce, and young sauteed potatoes

Summary: Château de Reignac’s “BALTHVS,” 2016, is an easy-drinking red wine that, once awake, is a joy to spend time with, never tiring.

Source and price: Château de Reignac, 60 euros.

Reviews: 92-93/100 J. Suckling

Château de Reignac
Address: 38 Chem. de Reignac, 33450 Saint-Loubès
Phone: 05 56 20 41 05
https://reignac.com/en/

To learn about our visit to the largest wine cooperative in the Entre-deux-Mers region, see my post Caves de Rauzan Visit.

Château Batailley Visit, Pauillac

Today, my wife and I had the fortunate opportunity to join a wine excursion organized by the wine school we are attending (see my post “Wine School in Bordeaux: Firsthand Advice“). We visited Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé of 1855, located within the Pauillac AOC.

Château Batailley, Grand-Cru-Classé-en-1855, Pauillac AOC
Château Batailley, Grand-Cru-Classé-en-1855, Pauillac AOC

The name “Batailley” comes from the word “Bataille,” which means “battle.” This refers to the conflict that occurred between the French and the English on the same estate in 1453. Château Batailley is one of the oldest estates in Pauillac.

The Classified Growths of 1885

What is “The Classified Growths of 1885,” you ask? In a nutshell, a world’s fair was going to be held in Paris in 1855, known as the 1855 Paris Exposition (French: Exposition Universelle de 1855).

Emperor Napoleon III sought to showcase Bordeaux wines, which had already gained fame in the Middle Ages due to the marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine, whose union had opened the Bordeaux region to the English market and eventually the world.

So, the Emperor requested that the French wine merchants (known as négociants) create a list of the best Bordeaux wines. The wine négociants ranked Bordeaux wines based on each château’s reputation and trading prices, which were directly tied to the quality of the wines produced by each château at that time.

Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar

The wine merchants compiled a list ranking the châteaux as first, second, third, fourth, and fifth most important “growths.” Thus, the “Les Grands Crus classés en 1855” (English: The Classified Growths of 1885) was born, and it stuck.

The Classified Growths of 1885 included 58 châteaux: four were ranked as first growths, 12 as second growths, 14 as third growths, 11 as fourth growths, and 17 as fifth growths. Château Batailley was ranked as a first growth.

Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar bottles
Château Batailley, Pauillac AOC wine cellar bottles

Château Batailley, Grand Cru Classé en 1855

My wife and I have visited many wineries over the years, but this one stands out as the best. We started our day with a tour of the winemaking operations, led by the winemaker. We were fortunate to witness the process of recovering and pressing the “cap of marc” to obtain press wine that is rich in aromatics and tannins. It was the first time we had seen this done.

After the tour, we enjoyed a tasting of Château Batailley’s wines. This was followed by a lovely lunch hosted by the winery’s president. I cannot express enough how kind and generous our hosts were. The entire day was magical, and I extend my heartfelt thanks to everyone involved.

Recovering and pressing the “cap of marc.”

During alcoholic fermentation of red wine in a tank, yeast converts sugar into alcohol, producing significant amounts of carbon dioxide (CO2). This gas pushes solid components, such as grape skins, pulp, and seeds, upward to the top of the tank, forming a layer known as the “cap of marc.”

Throughout alcoholic fermentation, the cap is pushed down into the fermenting grape juice at the winemaker’s discretion. The technique used to break up the floating fruit skins and solids and push them back into the wine is called “punching the cap.” This practice enhances the wine’s flavor and varies in intensity depending on the winemaker’s goals. Instead of punching down, a winemaker may choose to use the “pouring over method.”

After alcoholic fermentation and any additional maceration are complete, the wine is “racked,” meaning it is transferred from the tank to another tank or barrel. At this stage, the wine is known as free-run wine, which is the liquid that flows out of the tank by gravity when the bottom valve is opened after fermentation.

The "cap of marc" is being removed from the tank for pressing
The “cap of marc” is being removed from the tank for pressing

When the free-run wine is removed, the marc cap, which consists of all the solid parts, such as grape skins and seeds, settles to the bottom of the tank. A person then climbs into the tank to shovel out this material, which is fed into a press to extract the juice known as “must” (using manual, hydraulic, or pneumatic methods). This is called “press wine.”

Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine"
Pressing the cap of marc to obtain the “press wine.”

The “press wine” is collected, tasted, and typically stored in vats or barrels based on its quality. Normally, the winemaker combines the press wine with the free-run wine, depending on their objectives.

The remaining solids, known as pomace, are discarded or repurposed for other uses, such as producing spirits or fertilizers.

Tasting Note: Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

We sampled a variety of wines, all excellent. However, I want to highlight the Château Batailley “first wine,” which is the winery’s flagship bottling. This wine is a Pauillac AOC wine and has been classified as a 5th Growth since 1855, as discussed above.

Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017
Château Batailley, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2017

Bordeaux 2017: According to the Wine Cellar Insider, “The 2017 Bordeaux vintage is notable for the significant frost that affected the region in April. The best wines from this vintage come from the northern Médoc, with quality diminishing further south. On the Right Bank, Pomerol outperforms Saint-Émilion. However, the 2017 Bordeaux vintage is characterized more by localized terroirs than by specific appellations. The gravel slopes in the northern Médoc, particularly in Pauillac, produced powerful wines.”

Visual examination: A dark purple color with a cherry-copper rim and a deep ruby hue.

Olfactory examination: Medium plus intensity with notes of ripe fruit, such as blackcurrants, followed by spicy, dark chocolate notes, and a whiff of tobacco.

Gustative examination: Elegant, yet fresh. Structured with richness and tannins, revealing its good bottle-ageing potential. The finish is well-balanced with silky tannins and a persistence that leaves a lingering hint of dark chocolate on the palate.

Grape varieties: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot

Serving Temperature: 16-18°C or 61 to 64°F

Aging potential: Drink now or in the next 10-20 years.

Reviews: 92/100 Wine Enthusiast

Food Pairing: Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise (Rib steak in red wine and shallot sauce) served with pommes pont neuf (thick-cut fries).

Summary: Château Batailley, a Grand Cru Classé since 1855, beautifully represents Pauillac, offering tremendous value for money with an average price of €33 or $38 on Wine-Searcher.

Note: The five châteaux from 1885 ranked as First Growths, or Premiers Crus Classés, are Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, and Haut-Brion.

Paid tasting of Chateau Margaux 2011 at Max Bordeaux, Wine Gallery & Cellar in Bordeaux, France
Paid tasting of Chateau Margaux 2011 at Max Bordeaux, Wine Gallery & Cellar in Bordeaux, France

Port de la Lune Cellars Visit, Bordeaux

Port de la Lune Cellars is the first “urban winery” in Bordeaux. It is located in the Chartrons neighborhood. Laurent Bordes founded Port de la Lune Cellars in 2017 to produce wines that are not typically associated with the Bordeaux wine region. As he explained, every other winemaker in Bordeaux makes Bordeaux wines. Why should Port de la Lune Cellars?

As Laurent told us, with a clear vision, he decided to operate outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system and its regulations. The AOC establishes the rules for all French wines, including those from Bordeaux. Instead, he decided to produce “Vin de France” (VdF) wines. Also known as “Wine of France.” VdF regulations allow winemakers more flexibility compared to AOC rules.

Port de la Lune Cellars' urban wine cellar
Port de la Lune Cellars’ urban wine cellar

To realize his vision, as he tells it, Laurent reached out to winegrowers throughout France to source grapes. This was a challenging task, as sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is typical in New World wine regions, such as Napa, California; however, it is less common in France, except in the Burgundy region.

According to Laurent, at first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent’s request. “You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!” Eventually, they understood—today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across France.

Laurent told us that he drives over 10,000 kilometers each year during the harvest to collect grapes and transport them back to Bordeaux for winemaking. After the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location in Bordeaux, the freshly pressed grape juice, known as “must,” is transported to the Port de la Lune Cellars, where alcoholic fermentation (first fermentation) takes place in stainless steel tanks.

During our visit, Laurent explained that all the wines from Port de la Lune Cellars undergo a secondary fermentation, known as malolactic fermentation, in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with the oak enhances the wines’ aromas and permits oxygen to enter the wine gradually. As a result, the sharp malic acid is converted into softer, creamier lactic acid—similar to the acid found in milk. This process softens the tannins, thereby enhancing the wine’s weight and texture. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots.

Port de la Lune Cellars produces 50,000 bottles of wine each year, and the Laurent personally bottles and wax seals each one (I’m not joking). As he tells it, he tried to recruit people to help him, but after a couple of hours, they had had enough.

All Port de la Lune Cellars wines are organic, meaning they are made with only natural yeast, 1% sulfur, and no fining or filtering. We sampled two white wines and two red wines, all of which were of excellent quality.

A significant portion of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wine is exported, while some is also available for sale in Bordeaux. You can visit Port de la Lune Cellars’ website and use “Click and Collect,” which allows you to purchase the wine online and then schedule a pickup time at Port de la Lune Cellars. However, be aware that Port de la Lune Cellars is a what I call a “wine cellar speakeasy,” meaning there is no sign on the door, so it is easy to walk right past.

Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars' wines since 2017
Sample of each of Port de la Lune Cellars’ wines since 2017

Port de la Lune Cellars collects grapes from various wine regions across France that otherwise would not meet and introduces them to each other in Bordeaux through its winemaking process. The result is a “Wine made in Bordeaux” that is modern and appeals to a new generation, with interesting implications for addressing the impact of climate change on the French wine industry.

See my post “Best Place to Eat in Chartrons” to find a place to eat.

Port de la Lune Cellars
Address: 31 bis, rue Barillet-Deschamps, 33300 Bordeaux
Phone: +33 6 74 68 47 24